Samsung DLP problems - Help!

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Archive through October 26, 2009ovadoggvo1002009-10-26 04:36
Archive through April 07, 2009Tom Bachman1002009-04-08 02:26
Archive through March 02, 2009Brad Vickers1002009-03-03 03:20
Archive through February 17, 2009ovadoggvo1002009-02-18 02:04
Archive through December 01, 2008Josh Son1002008-12-01 21:22
Archive through September 23, 2008ovadoggvo1002008-09-23 05:34
Archive through May 28, 2008David Ley1002008-05-29 01:37
Archive through January 01, 2008ovadoggvo1002008-01-01 22:57
Archive through February 16, 2007kelly prochazka1002007-02-16 14:45
Archive through October 24, 2006rob1002006-10-24 22:01
Archive through March 14, 2006Myles Huck1002006-03-15 03:28
Archive through February 05, 2006FYI1002006-02-05 23:09
Archive through November 07, 2005DTD1002005-11-07 20:33
Archive through September 10, 2005Alberta1002005-09-11 03:34
Archive through August 13, 2005TerryW1002005-08-13 17:48
Archive through May 23, 2005garrick moskowitz1002005-05-23 20:53
Archive through April 16, 2005Kdog0441002005-04-16 19:08
Archive through March 06, 2005ted b1002005-03-07 00:01
Archive through February 09, 2005FYI1002005-02-09 21:24
Archive through January 16, 2005loud1002005-01-16 17:59
Archive through December 14, 2004Strati1002004-12-14 17:41
Archive through November 16, 2004Ryan_In_KC1002004-11-17 00:29
Archive through September 27, 2004disappointed1002004-09-27 20:53
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 315
Registered: May-07
Bryan Arel,
The problem you are having with your set is most likely the Digital Board. The reason your VGA input works is because VGA is an analog connection going straight to the DMD board. If your VGA connection so working fine without distortion, it tells me that your DMD board is fine. The reason your analog connections other than VGA may have been working is because ALL OF THE ANALOG SIGNALS GO THROUGH THE DIGITAL BOARD for up-converting using Samsung's DNIe chip (located on the digital board).

I hope that helps and I apologize for the caps, however, i wanted everyone's eyes to get drawn to that message. In some cases there is some confusion there. This is why at times, I diagnose the Analog board as the faulty board, however, I never rule out the Digital Board... Since analog signal travels through Digital Board (even the VGA), the VGA signal travels a different route through the Digital Board (which doesn't go through the DNIe upconvert or digital convert)..

I hope this all make sense!

Good Luck.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 316
Registered: May-07
JJ Carr,
The problem you are describing is a common issue and is caused by a collapsing light tunnel. A light tunnel is made of 4 mirrors which are glued inside an aluminum tunnel with a 2-3" length..

With the heat and time, the light tunnel begins to collapse as the left or right hand side mirror's adhesive begins to give way. This starts to cause a small shadow starting on the left or right hand side of the TV and with time, the shadow grows to cover as much as 50% of the screen.

You can just purchase a new "Optical Block" from Discount-Merchant for under $200.. The optical block has the light tunnel with it.

This problem used to be a disaster and our service center would tell the customer that the TV's life was over... But now Discount-Merchant carries the optical block for $129-$190!! This is great news for everyone on this forum.

Look here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=optical+block

I have attached a picture of to show where the "Light Tunnel" is located.Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 317
Registered: May-07
JJ,
One more thing.. f D-M doesn't have the optical block, you can purchase the light engine for around $100 more and it will also resolve your problem.. You will then have a backup DMD board too in case you need it in the future.
 

New member
Username: Dekcah

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-09
I have a hlp5063 and hlp4663 and im trying to determine if both ballast are bad what wattage should i get from it when its trying to power up i have 3 bulbs and cant get either of them to work. it cycles 3 times and gets the 3 lights error. thanks in advance.
 

New member
Username: Chisailor

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-09
Hello, I have a HLR4667W The color wheel when out and I replaced it. After getting the TV back together I know have a verticle lines like a plad pateren in my picture, BUT only on the input sources. Meaning not on the picture set up menues or infomation bar???

I cleaned out the color wheel area again thinking I missed some glass, but same picture.... Any help would be GREAT!
 

New member
Username: Murphy4

FL

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-09
I need help! We have a HL R6768w that we bought about 4 years ago. Thank God we bought the extended warranty. We have had to replace the light engine 3 times. Our warranty expires next year. This can obviously become costly quick. Is anyone else having problems with this part? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for all your expertise.
 

New member
Username: Dmgiff

Las Vegas, NV United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-09
Hi, I have had a few problems with my Samsung HLR5067W television. It all started a month ago when it wouldn't come on and no tone. Thinking it was the lamp, I replaced it. It didn't fix the problem; using this forum, I diagnosed it as the ballast. Replaced that and it comes on but after warming up for about seven to ten minutes, the picture on any channel begins to change color rapidly from a pink hue, to green to blue over and over and over at about a half-second interval. Is there some adjustment I need to make after changing the ballast or could it be the color wheel which no needs replacement? It also does it on the menu screens after warming up. I could not find an adjustment screen in the normal menu; is there a special service menu perhaps? I appreciate any help you have for me.
 

New member
Username: Joe15720

Post Number: 4
Registered: Jun-08
OK, I have given up. Went out and bought a Sony LCD. So now I have a Samsung HLN5065W/XAA that I am willing to part out or sell as is. Search this thread for issues that it had. Bulb was replaced over 2 yrs ago and the color wheel and ballast were replaced early May 2009. Still have the original bulb that had about 9000 hrs on it. If you are looking for a cheap bulb to troubleshoot, this is the one. My email is joe15720@yahoo.com if you want to email me directly.
Thanks and good luck
 

New member
Username: Txredbull

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-09
Hey folks, looks like another Samsung user to join the group here. I have a HLT4675S that has gone out on me. It was working fine and then the picture just went out. The sound was good but no picture. When I restarted it, there was no picture and no sound. It tries to turn on but ends up recycling several times. I think I hear the color wheel spinning and I believe that the ballast is kicking on but I'm not sure if that is the click I hear. The bulb is about a year old and appears to be good when I visual inspect it. Does it sound like I have a faulty ballast? After reading the posts above it certainly seems that way but I could be missing something. How would I know if it is the DMD board?

I almost forgot, there is a little white light on the board next to the lamp that turns on when I try to turn on the tv. It comes on throught the start up cycle and then cuts off before recycling...in case that helps. Thanks in advance for all the help and knowledge!
 

New member
Username: Johnwade1940

Linden, Michigan Usa

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-09
samsung 61 inch dlp wont turn on , no front lights ,nothing inside tv but one green light that's it!, help!
 

New member
Username: Turcor

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-09
Samsung HLP-5063W. I recently replaced the color wheel with the one that's widely available (the BP96-0674A, non-FDB). My set originally had the FDB wheel, so when I replaced it the colors were backwards. I pulled the FDB jumper and the colors appeared as they should. The problem I have now is poor rendition in low-light scenes, along with severe banding. Normally-lit scenes such as live sports, etc. look great. But almost every current drama on TV uses low-light scenes, and they look horrible.
Will an FDB wheel resolve this? Anyone have a source other than discount-merchant.com (they are always out of stock).
Any other potential downside to using the FDB wheel?
 

New member
Username: Agshaun00

Daphne, AL

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-09
I noticed a green tint on my screen where i know red is supposed to be and instead it is green.

Now my tv started to flicker with white flashes. reading through everything, i can not figure out what is wrong.
 

New member
Username: Mscompwizz

Gonzales , La USA

Post Number: 3
Registered: Aug-09
Shaun... if you are using the coax cable to receive your tv signal it could be your digital board , is it that way in the menu to ...
 

New member
Username: Txredbull

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-09
I replaced the ballast but the TV still won't turn on. It cycles several times before it gives up and flashes all three lights at me.

The lamp is just over a year old but it may need to be replaced. I did notice that the glass that covers the color wheel has a crack in it but it has been that way for a while now. What could be the problem? (Background: The picture went out one day while watching. The sound was still working. When I restarted the TV it just recycles....that is when I cam on here the first time and decided to change the ballast)
 

New member
Username: Msmiller

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-09
I have a samsung HLS4676SX. TV would turn off after 10 minutes of use, and turn back on after a minute or two, only to turn off again in a few minutes with a buzzing sound, so I replaced the color wheel. TV will now turn on, power the color wheel, lamp and fans, and then shut off before anything comes on screen. Standby/temp light and lamp light will flash until I unplug the TV. Please help!
 

New member
Username: Dlpsucks

Saratoga, CA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-09
I have a 46" Samsung Slimline DLP TV. 3 weeks ago the DLP engine IC started to loose some of the pixels and I started seing dots on the screen. Now my TV has the milky way in the background. Kind'a makes it romantic but I'd rather get rid of it. So I took out the board with the CODE BP41-00289A. And sure enough, I can see a lot of dots on the DLP engine IC where the tiny MEM mirrors are failing. I could not find the part at the usuall places (discount-merchants.com or samsungparts.com). Anybody have any ideas? I actually only need the DLP integrated circuit but I doubt that is sold anywere. HELP!!!
 

New member
Username: 1516p

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-09
Does anyone know how to reset HDMI port settings on Samsung HL-R5067W DLP. Is it possible? We got a PS3 and hooked up a new Sony Bravia Input Link DMX-SW1 because the TV only has one HDMI port which we were using for the Direct TV box. When we connected the Switch box, only the Direct TV on port 1 would show on the screen. We switched them and put the Direct TV on the 2nd input line and the PS3 on the 1st and only the PS3 would show.

Now nothing shows up on the screen when using HDMI. We went back and connected the Direct TV box directly to the TV HDMI port as it use to be and nothing shows. Did the same with the PS3 but nothing shows. Did this break the HDMI input on the TV? I also read something online about the Samsung HLRs not having the updated HDMI version 3.1. Do you know anything about this and what we need to do to fix this? When the HDMI cable is not connected to the TV, the TV states "check connection" then when we do connect it, it states no or weak signal and shows a blue screen. So it seems to detect it but maybe needs a setting reset????
 

New member
Username: Jrizek

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
hey every1,

my issue is i have a hlt5075sx/aax and it worked fine for a while but after about a yr of owning it, when i would turn it off and try and turn it back on maybe 15 min later it would take about 20 min to turn back on but as time passed it took longer and longer to turn on until this past weekend i tried to turn it on and it would not turn on at all it tried to start itself up like always but it wouldn't come on so i bought a new lamp and it didn't work either so i decided to exchange it for another 1 to see if it was a faulty lamp and when i put it in my tv worked for 2 days with the same delay as before but it would turn on but today my wife tried to turn it on and now its the same as 3 days ago it tries to turn on but eventually it flashes the 3 lights and no matter how many times i try to turn it on it wont, my ballast makes a clicking sound every time it tries to come on and my color wheel spins with a winding type sound but its not too loud, what do i need to replace in order to get it working again im going nuts plz n e body help id appreciate it
 

New member
Username: Champt02

Post Number: 5
Registered: Nov-08
I think I am having a problem similar to Harold and Steve back in July 2009. I have a HLR5078W. I am just not sure where to start--the ballast, lamp or PCB board? Here's the problem:
Push the on button and it flashes Lamp and makes a humming/screech sound (almost like something is turning and rubbing inside)
This goes on for about a minute and then I hear a click (like the TV is turning off) and the noise stops and all LED lights flash. This will go on until I unplug the TV.
I wasn't home when the problem began last night but my sister said that she heard a little pop and then saw blue squiggles on the screen and then the humming started and its been doing what it does now.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I just don't know where to start with it or if it is even worth fixing?
 

New member
Username: Firemannitro

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
I seem to have an uncommon problem with my Samsung HL-R5067W. It turns itself on. This usually occurs during the night, 1 or 2 am. Once on it seems to work fine, but if it does not get caught (This television is in an upstairs guest room) It sometimes seems to overheat and the picture and audio shut off, but the lamp stays on. Other than this, the TV seems to be flawless. I purchased this second hand from Circut City before they went out of business. I deactivated the auto-on feature from the menu, but it still turns on by itself. Is there another auto-on function that I need to look for? Tired of having to leave it unplugged unless we are using it at that second. Any tips? Thanks.
 

New member
Username: Champt02

Post Number: 6
Registered: Nov-08
I changed the bulb on my HLR5078W--no help with the original problem. Any suggestions?
 

New member
Username: Jklvidpro

Kenner, Louisiana

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
The right side of my Samsung HL-R5678W is translucent green. On occasion the green makes finger-print like patterns. I just out of my three year warranty. Help please.

Upload
 

New member
Username: Therese

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
Hi, all. I have been reading these posts w/fading enthusiasm. I came on here thinking I only had a defective lamp, but now fearing much worse. I have a Samsung p5063w, 5 yrs old. Four years ago, the color wheel shattered, but before I realized that was the problem, I bought a replacement lamp, which obviously didn't fix it. The lamp has been sitting on a shelf until two weeks ago, when the TV went dark. I replaced the lamp, and it appeared all was well. Fantastic, in fact -- the picture hadn't been that bright and clear in a long time -- we'd never realized how dark it had gotten.

Anyway, yesterday, several times over the course of the day, the TV just went into standby mode on its own. Pushing the power button wouldn't help. I could only get the picture back by unplugging the TV. Today it happened a few more times, but each time it took a little more coaxing to get it to come back on. I kept it unplugged most of the day, and it came back on OK this evening.

At one point, the picture resolution got all out of whack -- everything got really BIG and we could only see about 1/2 of what was being broadcast. And there were some fuzzy lines throughout the screen. Then I noticed I was having symptoms similar to those described by Joe Key back in September -- no response to any of the menu buttons or remote. And the red LED would flash anytime I press a button on the remote. I unplugged the TV again and this time it would not come back on at all. It would cycle through the green LED and standby modes. Then the timer/lamp/standby lights all flashed simultaneously. Per the user guide, this is symptomatic of a defective lamp, as you are all too aware. And, this is where it stands now.

Could it be possible we have a defective lamp, or is it more likely to be the digital board, or other problems described here? Funds are really, really low. I can't go on a fishing expedition for parts. Any help trying to nail this down would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks so much.
 

New member
Username: Dekcah

Post Number: 2
Registered: Oct-09
Where are you located i happen to have a lot of extra parts for this type of tv could get lucky and be near kc mo area
 

New member
Username: Therese

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-10
Guess not lucky enough. I am in Ohio.
 

New member
Username: Tonyah

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-10
have a Samsung HL-R5067W. While watching HD, the screen will drop to black or become jittery. When I try to bring the satellite guide up, the guide will roll endlessly. After dropping to black (the audio is unaffected), it may take 3-10 seconds for the picture to return. I can record to my DVR a section of HD that displays the problems, and reliably have it occur. Interestingly if I use the SVideo ouput to play the HD recording, then the problem does not occur. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Thanks for any and all help.
 

New member
Username: 2cleezy

Alexandria, Va

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
Hi All,

I have a Samsung HLN437wx/xaa and I have a wierd problem going on. My DVI and all composite inputs all work fine. My components inputs all appear to not have any red color. Can anyone please help me figure out what the problem may be.

Thanks

Oh the PC input is seems to have slight tint to it also.

All help appreciate it
 

New member
Username: Nikki6488

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
I have a Samung 56" DLP i bought it back dec 2008 its just over a year old and i have had the same issue over and over again. After i had the tv for 5-6 mounth the bulb went out samsung senta 3rd party repair to my house and the replaced the bulb and everything seemed to be fine 3 months later it happend again so they came out and replaced it. Now only 2months since the last time they fixed its out again. Im soooo sick of dealing with this same problem and have just about had it with samsung and the poor customer service. Anyone who is interested in a class act lawsuit PLEASE contact me.
email NikkiBretz6488@yahoo.com
 

New member
Username: Bneu7027

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
I "inherited" a HL-P6163W from a family member that purchased a new TV because this one was broken. I received the TV in tampered condition. I pieced back together the rear of the TV according to the many Pics, Diagrams and YouTube videos that I found online. After that, I powered it up and it worked! I was able to watch a few movies using the HDMI and component inputs alternating between them. Then all of a sudden she turned off. I removed the back and tried to slightly fan the lamp, thinking that it was a temp problem. But, that was not the case. From that point on it was like trying to start a lawnmower, when it started and I got it running for a little while it would say on but getting it to that point takes a lot of plugging and unplugging.

After reading this thread I have found that since now my lamp is no longer kicking in at all my color wheel is not spinning. I verified by the lack of the Werrrrrrring sound that usually comes from that part of the engine.

I removed the color wheel and checked to see if it was spinning freely. It was not. There was a point where it sounded like it was rubbing. After fixing the rubbing and using some 4 in 1 oil to lube it up a little, it was spinning freely. I replaced the color wheel and found that when I got the TV started again the whites in the picture would be flickering different colors. From this forum I found that the timing could be fixed by going into the service menu and changing the CCA and Index Delay. But now im at the point where it doesn't even turn on anymore (so i cant even get to the service menu). I hear the color wheel spinning but no lamp ignition. The unit turns itself off and then automaticly turns on again (Normal) but the secon time the Colorwheel is spinning faster. This leads me to believe that the sensor that checks the RPM of the C.W. is is not functioning properly. The connection to the DMD board for both the motor and CW sensor are securely made. The only thing that I can think of is that the timing mark, as mentioned in this chain earlier, has been disturbed.( perhaps by the oil that I used to lube up the CW...) If this is the case, can I use a Sharpie marker to make the mark again? Does this sound like the problem?


Does this troubleshooting seem sound? If I'm missing something please let me know...

Thanks in advance.
 

New member
Username: Cyder7830

USA

Post Number: 5
Registered: Jul-08
Hello all; well I have a HLR4266/WX/XAA it's a couple of years old andwell I never purchased the extended warranty basically cause it wascost prohibitive at the time.
The problem I have may have been discussed already, but none the less here I go.
When I press the power button the lamp light on the little disc on the front flashes for a bit, I can hear the fan kick on and see light projectingout the rear of the TV. The screen remains black, a minute or so laterthe unit goes back into standby mode.
I have heard it could be the digital light control or a bunch of other things. I really don't want to go buying all kinds of parts not knowing exactly what the problem is. Does anyone know of a bench test I can preform without having specialty equipment?
I'd even be willing to take it to a repair shop if absolutely nessessary but again I don't want to spend money unnessessarily.
Please if you can help it would be greatly appreciated, otherwise come spring clean up the TV goes out to the curb. As of now it's been sitting collecting dust for almost 18 months & well I promised my wife if it's not working come April 1 it will go to the curb.
 

New member
Username: Champt02

Post Number: 7
Registered: Nov-08
Doug,

It sounds like the problem we had with our HLR5078. The fan and light come on but there is no picture. It ended up being the color wheel. We ordered the part from samsungparts.com (I think it ended up being around $100 with shipping) and there are a couple really good videos on youtube.com that show you how to take it all apart and put a new one in. I would recommend looking at the video and taking it apart first to make sure it is the color wheel. Ours was shattered and we had to carefully clean out all the little pieces of it.
 

New member
Username: Clovis_76

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
Hello,

I've got an HLR5067WX/XAA that has worked nearly flawlessly since it's purchase in 06/2005 (I have noticed "flickering" in brightly colored scenes that is noticeable more often over the last 2 years than ever in the past).

This evening I turned on the TV and noticed the following pattern: picture and sound both present (~2 secs), sound goes out picture remains (~18 secs), picture freezes (~10 secs), TV power cycles (~4 secs), picture and sound return, sound goes out, picture freezes, TV power cycles. . .

The set is no longer responsive to remote or side button presses. The power indicator light seems to go out along with the sound.

I tried leaving the set unplugged for 10 minutes and had the same symptoms when the TV was plugged back in (the set turned on automatically).

I've seen others report the picture going out, but not the sound - any thoughts?
 

New member
Username: Kesugeo

Greenbackville, VA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-10
I own an HL-R5067W and just recently have noticed a dark vertical bar that takes up the entire left 3" of the screen. I can tell that the section is not "burnt out" as you can still see graphics in that area it is just very noticebly darker. Any idea what could be causing this and what I should do to fix or further diagnose it?
 

New member
Username: Harkonen

Barrie, ON Canada

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
Hello all,

I have the exact same issue (down to a tea) as this post yet I do not see any responses. Could someone help?

http://www.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=1770534#POST1770534

"Hi, my Samsung HLN467wx has been running great (other than the color wheel replacement a couple years ago) but now has developed a bad problem:

Turn on the TV, and all appears normal for a couple of minutes. Then flickering lines and color / artifacts begin to cover the screen. The entire picture appears completely corrupted/glitched within 30 seconds or so. The sound continues normally. No lights on the front panel are flashing or lit. No odd sounds come from the TV. At this point the power button on the remote and TV are unresponsive (the sound cuts off, but the picture corruption continues). In 10 minutes or so the picture goes completely black. After pulling the plug and letting the TV sit off for a few minutes, I can restart the TV and it looks normal, until the problem begins again in a minute or two.

If I unplug and restart the TV immediately after the above problem, then I get this new problem:
the TV seems to start normally, with sound coming on, but soon it shuts down and restarts itself before ever displaying any image. It does this 3 times, finally resting on a black screen with all 3 front panel/circle lights (Timer, Lamp and Temp) flashing on and off (Timer and Lamp are green, and Temp is red).

I've been searching around the net for hours today, and only seen one other mention on another forum of what appears to be the same problem, but they got no response. Any ideas?

I did read of known problems with the Digital and DMD boards, and that in some cases Samsung may even cover replacing the parts even for out-of-warranty TVs. Would be great if this is possible, is there any info available?"
 

New member
Username: Bcwebb73

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
Eric, it sounds like your unit is overheating. Thats why it works for a few minutes and then after the problem occurs, you still get issues when turning it off and back on because the unit is still too hot. The TV has a sensor in it that will shut itself down if the temp gets too high to avoid permanent damage to the circuitry and chips, but that does not mean that permanent damage can't be done, so I would avoid turning it off and on until you get a solution to the issue. I am not sure what the exact solution is for your overheating problem as there can be many root causes. The main cause would be that one of the two fans on the back is out or there is too much dust in there. I actually cleaned out my samsung 46in DLP today for the first time by taking the lower backing off and I was able to get enough dust out that compacted down to the size of a golf ball. Just grab a flash light and look through the venting holes on the back (opposite side from the A/V plugins usually) and you should be able to see the fan for the lamp. If it is really clogged up with dust, you can try spraying compressed air in there, but I would recommend taking the lower backing off and cleaning it with a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol. Also, the plus side of taking the back off is it will allow you to see all of the fans. You can clean them, and then leave the backing off and turn the unit on to make sure they are all working. There is usually a little blue jumper switch right inside the panel that you remove to replace the lamp, you may need to hold that down after taking the backing off or the tv will shut off. Hope this helps! If not, try searching for issues with overheating.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 318
Registered: May-07
Eric and Everyone on this forum... I have just posted an extensive boot sequence and diagnosis for these Samsung TV's in this thread:

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19&p=4006#p4006

I highly advise everyone to take a look at this post before posting here. This will give you a better idea on how your Television set works and where to ask specific questions. Please include your model number when posting questions to help me diagnose easier. Model specific information is great because certain models have certain issues that are common!

I hope this helps and I look forward to helping everyone! Please try to save me some time by doing your due diligence on the various forums and posting specific detailed questions. The more time I have free, the more people I can help.
 

New member
Username: Jonsan

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
I am new to this forum and I'm looking forward to helping others as much as I can because from taking my HLM617WX/XAA set apart multiple times, I feel I know enough to be dangerous :-)

I changed my color wheel. When i did I broke the blue white wire plug coming from the old wheel to the DMD board. All I did was take out the remaining piece of the plug and inserted the new blue white wire that came with the new color wheel. No problem.

Then I reassembled the TV exactly as I took it apart--only in reverse order of course. Put the back on, etc. and fired it up. I hear the melodic tune as before but othing else & I have no picture.

The only thing I can think of is there is a white plug in receptacle between two 10 prong ribbon cables on the front right hand side of the digital board that does NOT have a ribbon going into it. I looked everywhere thinking I missed it, but it's not to be found.

Does anyone know if there is a cable that goes there or what could be wrong.

I've had this set for 6 years and love the picture.

Thanks for any help.
 

New member
Username: Fogarlo

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
I have a Samsung HLN-507W which turns on for 30 seconds (lamp lights correctly and screen looks fine) and then shuts itself off with the dreaded 3 lights of death. I cleaned out all the dust and made sure that the little blue switch in the back was engaged correctly, but I can't seem to keep the set from shutting off. The lamp is fairly new and I expect that since it lights up, the lamp and the ballast are good (bought the lamp from DM 4 months ago). Any suggestion where/what to check next? The only thing I can think of is that my TV is meant to take the Toshiba lamp (which is not sold anymore) and DM gave me a Philips lamp saying it would work.
 

New member
Username: Gaustinw

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-10
I have a HL-S4676S. For a while, every time I turned it on, there would be an annoying hiss coming from the speakers, even when the internal mute was on. I would be able to "fix" this problem but turning the internal mute off, then on again and stream the sound thru external speakers. Last week, the hissing stopped. But before I could celebrate, an annoying whir came from the left side. I thought it might be the fan, cleaned off the dust in the back, and all was excellent for 2 hours, then the sound came back again, and it would last sometime a couple minutes after the unit was turned off.

Had a TV person come out and look at it (thinking it was the color wheel or the fan), but he said it's probably not that (the sound wasn't as grinding for the color wheel), but most likely a board problem. Not wanting to put more money into the money pit of a TV, he suggested I disconnect the internal speakers and the sound might possibly go away. Sound easy, except I can't for the life of me figure out where the internal speaker wires are back there. Also, could it have come up from a mistaken repair on my DMD board, which was just replaced last month?

Can anyone help, or do you have suggestions?
 

New member
Username: Fritz_skyler

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-10
Model Code: HLR5667WAX-XAA
This set has worked great until recently.
The first problem I noticed was the green checkerboard type display. I looked back at the earlier posts and felt the problem was the related to the digital board. Mostly because the menu's hung
I ordered a replacement from DM along with a cable set as insurance.
The board arrived but I noticed a slight difference. The RF (air antenna) parts were not included. On my original board, the RF part is soldered to the board. It appears that on the new board they are able to plug in to a socket. I wasn't really worried about that part, I live really rural and use a dish for reception with inputs through the HDMI port and maybe SVIDEO and standard audio.
I installed the new digital Board now the set seems to come up.
But I now have a "Check the Fan #3 message.
I can enter the service mode (OSD) and all of the screen color patterns work (both the DMD and the Digital patterns) All of the fans work and the problem doesnt move if I swap fans at the fan control board. So I'm pretty convinced it isn't the actual fans.
Could the problem be with the Analog Board at this point? I was able to trace the fan signals to the I2C bus (chip) on the fan board, but from there I am not able to test it.
I suppose I could change the fan board then the analog board to try to trap this issue.
Any clues how I should proceed?
Thanks for your help!
 

New member
Username: Handyguy

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-06
I have used this board and all advice provided before...terrific!

Sadly, I am back again regarding problems with my Samsung DLP -HLN5065WX/XXA. Here is the situation:

Unit was originally purchased in fall 2004. I changed the lamp (it exploded) about 2 years ago. Within the last 6 months, I have noted the length of time it takes for picture to appear getting longer and longer. Also, in order to get a good picture, the contrast and brightness settings slider are set on the high end of the scale. Last night, no picture...only sound. The event sequence is as follows:

Turn-on (1 or 2 clicks and fans turning on can be heard)
Audio/TV program sounds come on
LAMP (1 of 3 indicators in front) starts blinking then goes steady
Unit shuts down and recycles

The above cycle is repeated 3 times, then unit turns off--three indicator lights in front (TIMER-green, LAMP-green, TEMP-red) blink for a 5-10 seconds before unit completely shuts off (no sound, fans, etc.)

I opened the lamp access panel, jumped the safety switch, and turned on the unit. I did not see any indications that lamp is on.

Has my lamp gone bad, again? It did not explode this time and appears intact.

Look forward to hearing from any and all you experts that provide excellent advice and counsel.

Thanks in advance
 

New member
Username: Vstroud

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-10
Hello I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction...

I have Samsung HLN5065WX/XAA which was purchased in 2004. We have had the color wheel replaced and the lamp. The problem we are having now is diagonal to horizontal bars across the screen. I was told it was a problem with my DVR cable box. I replaced it and the problem is still there. Then I have been told it was my tuner board going out. If I plug my DVD (Samsung also) into the DVI the picture is beautiful again.

Any advice would be great and what I can do with this $3600 TV. It really makes me mad because I up graded from a Song 50 inch that I had had for only 2 yrs and the D board went out in it and was not able to get a replacement for it... still sitting in the garage cause it is so hard to toss out a 5 grad TV. I am thinking I will replace with a Vizio next a lot cheaper and just as nice a picture.
 

New member
Username: Agshaun00

Daphne, AL

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-09
Blaine,

The same thing just happened to me. First, the picture would come on and then after a few hours, it would just flash.

Now i get sound and nothing. It turns off.
 

New member
Username: Clayrbrown5

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-10
Im gonna make this short, HL56A650 went to reset lamp hours and ended up changing the lamp to "pulse," naturally my set cycles off and on until I unplug it from the wall, how do I reset to factory defaults without turning the TV on? Do I have a service port that I can use computer software to adjust this back to normal?
 

New member
Username: Chekmi21

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-10
Hi Guys,

I have a grey transparent bar on the left hand side of my screen on my Samsung HL-6768W. The picture is fine other than the grey bar. I've researched a bit and I've come to the conclusion its the color wheel. Figures my BestBuy Extended Warranty ran out last October and this just started to happen.

1) From the picture attached, can you verify that its my color wheel
2) Where can I get a replacement color wheel?
3) Is there a DIY on the replacement? (I've replaced the DLP Lamp before on other Samsung DLP TV's but never the colorwheel)
Please see the picture below, I've boxed in red the concern.

Upload

I appreciate your help in advance.
 

New member
Username: Raotayi

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-10
Hello All, I am having this problem since this morning. Turned off the TV last night. In the morning when i turned it back on. Picture did not appear, i tied it a few times. Then i figured that it must be my lamp, it has been 5 years since we got this Samsung HLR5067WX/XAA. So i opened up the back panel and accessed the Lamp. Visual inspection did not reveal like any thing burned out. SO i put it back and noticed that as soon as i connected it to power lamp turned on. The picture appeared bu went away within a minute. I tried to tun it off with remote no luck. The picture and audio come on for a minute or so, then it freezes up for a while, then picture goes blank and reappears. This cycle continues. The TV does not respond to the remote nor to the side buttons.. What should I do. Please let me know based on your expertise.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Denovo

Post Number: 14
Registered: Jan-08
Subject: Samsung HL-R4667WAX/XAA - Intermittent Freeze,
Refresh

I've had this DLP since 2006. No issues besides replacing the bulb 1x. Last week, the screen would freeze for a brief moment, then refresh. It does not power off, just freezes and refreshes. I have taken the back off of the DLP and dusted the interior thoroughly. I have also tried switching the inputs and stopped using the HDMI port completely. However, the set still freezes intermittently while connected via component cables on both jacks (1 & 2). Any ideas would be much appreciated - I have yet to stumble upon a solution. I have a hunch it's the Analog and Digital boards (hoping it's not the DMD). Please help! ... It's good to be back w/the pros!
 

New member
Username: Sanmanjax

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-10
Subject: Samsung DLP HLP4663W picture disappears

I replaced the lamp assembly in January of 2009 and it was GREAT! The guides at http://www.fixyourdlp.com/guides/guides.php made it easy. Now, though, the picture disappears but the TV is still on. If I turn off the TV & turn it back on, the picture comes back. Looking at the back of the TV, I can still see light coming out of the cooling vents for the lamp assembly. This is different than before when the lamp was failing. That powered down the TV & killed the sound to my AV receiver.

Any ideas? Thanks for anything.
Daniel
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 319
Registered: May-07
Guys,
Sorry I've been out of the loop for a little while. Been busy doing other things rather than helping people fix their TV's! But I just heard of a NEWS FLASH for JUN15 2010.

There is a class action lawsuit that passed for those people on this forum that have an HL-P series, HL-R series, HL-S series and select HL-T series SAMSUNG TV! This class action suit entitles people with the "SHADOW" affect to get free repairs by Samsung corporation.

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/newsalert/supportNewsAlertMain.do


HJ,
This directly apply's to you and the picture you have posted on this forum.

Guys, I'm also helping people on another forum here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/

I'm sorry I don't get the time to answer every single one of your questions but I am all over this forum and a few others helping people with the same exact issues as yours. Please look around and I'm sure I've posted an answer to your questions somewhere here.
 

New member
Username: Pamelanewton1

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-10
I have a Samsung DLP model HL-P4663W/HL TV. I'm not getting a picture (looks black), but I do get audio when I have it connected to a ant/cable line. I cannot see the menu because I have no picture. I can hear I am changing channels, but still do not see any menu or picture. I do see that the lamp is good, even switched it out with another good one and I still get the blank/black no picture. None of LED lights on the front panel are flashing to indicate it is any of those issues. The issue seems very similar to Sanmanjax issue posted on June 2, 2010. Do you have any idea if it is the DMD module, Digital Board, or Light Engine?
 

New member
Username: Msv

Post Number: 7
Registered: Feb-09
Samsung DLP Class Action Settlement
here is the official listing -
http://www.samsung.com/us/dlptvsettlement/
 

New member
Username: Rnelson2

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-10
Hey there all,

I have a Samsung 61" Widescreen DLP model code: HLS6186WX/XAA. Recently, the television has become darker, no color problems or flashing in and out, it's just become significantly darker. I think it may be the lamp, but I'm not sure. If anybody knows, please post.

There are no noise problems, no color problems, no other problems than the picture being significantly darker. I have turned the brightness up to 100, and it's still dark. Thanks for the help!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15599
Registered: Jan-08
Reid

Start by replacing the lamp!
 

New member
Username: Jdf66r

RiversideCA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-10
Hi folks,

Have a question here and am hoping for some help. I have a 50" Samsung DLP HLR5067W AX/XAA.

Bought it back in June of 06. On my second lamp at this point (replaced in 2/09...about 2,500 hours on it currently). Picture is great. Brightness is great so I think I'm all good there.

Problem I'm having is that when I come home in the evenings to power it up to watch TV, sometimes it just can't seem to get itself up and running. It clicks on, I see the screen light itself up but it just ssort of flickers very dull. I did the Mute, 1, 8, 2 and tested the color settings and it seems to be all ok. Furthermore, when watching it from time to time, it will freeze up the image on the screen, flicker the picture off for a second and then it will come back on. I was under the impression that it was my cable provider but I have since switched and now know it's my TV.

I pulled the back of the TV off to check to make sure it was clean in all the guts back there. All good.

Could it be the Ballast, DMD Board, etc? I'm not overly techy and I dread the fact of having to shell out for a new TV because I love this TV and just don't feel like buying a new one right now. When it works, it's great!!! Great color, great picture, etc.

Thanks a bunch for your advice and help.

Feel free to email me at jdfcofc@hotmail.com if you might have some advice.

Thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Denovo

Post Number: 16
Registered: Jan-08
I would definitely replace the ballast if it will not turn over. I just remedied a freezing issue with my 46 inch model as well. It was the digital board, and what you are describing were my first symptoms. Are you getting any checker patterns and/or peripherals or inputs not working?
 

New member
Username: Turcor

Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-09
My HLP5063W just quit on me. It was on and everything was working, but the TV would not accept remote or front panel commands. The only option was to yank the plug. After that, it won't turn on. It tries three times and then goes to all three LEDs blinking. The lamp never turns on, and I don't hear the color wheel spin up. I'm at the point where I'll probably not spend any more money or time on it. If anyone has any ideas for simple fixes, please advise. Otherwise I might give it away for parts.
 

New member
Username: Sfj10

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-10
Hi,
I've got my HLP-5063WX since 2004. For quite some time - but now more often - the TV keeps shutting off after some 10-15 min of viewing. Start again - shuts off after anywhere from 1 min to 3 min - again the same thing.
The weird thing is that after I "endure" the first 30-40-50 min doing this shutting off - turning on thing, the TV can then remain ON for a whole day without any problem. I was going to change the lamp....but what's your opinion on this?
Thanks
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15738
Registered: Jan-08
Welcome to eCoustics Sorin!

Your problem look like a fan which does not start cold then start to run when hot, open the panel then check all fans to see if it turn easily when the TV is off, if you found a fan defect, you can replace this one or put WD-49 on the sleeve bearing!
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 1948
Registered: Oct-07
I'd be REAL careful spraying that junk inside MY TV. Any optics that get WD on them will be difficult to clean and require disassembly.

If I could get at one side of the bushing....actually see it and able to touch it, I'd make a dripper out of a toothpick and use that to put the SMALLEST drop of the FINEST oil I could find directly on the bushing.

Make sure the interior is 'de dusted' before you start oiling stuff.

WD-40 is not really 'oil', though it is a hydrocarbon. It's best use is freeing stuck / rusty hardware. 'WD' stands for Water Displacement.
 

New member
Username: Sfj10

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-10
Thanks Plymouth for your reply.

I'll try this tonight or tomorrow. I thought it was pretty easy to replace a lamp....if it's the fan...hopefully I can find one and replace it myself.
 

New member
Username: Sfj10

Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-10
Thanks Leo.....I'll be careful...first I'll see if the fan has any problem...if it moves free...perhaps it's something else...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15740
Registered: Jan-08
Leo is right!

If you use WD-40, remove the fan before!

Leo

WD-40 contain also oil but much solvant, I use it on electronic board in moisture environment, I listed this oil to diluted the old oil then it's available for everybody!
 

New member
Username: Corby

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-10
I have a hlt5075s that I am replacing the color wheel on. I had a few problems but eventually got the color wheel in and everything looked like it was going to work fine. Then I realized I had a wire and I don't know where it goes. It's a blue/brown wire that was on the top. any ideas?
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 1950
Registered: Oct-07
Did a wire pull out of any of the wiring plugs / harness?


WD-40 smells like diesel fuel with ???, to me, anyway.
Actually, as a test, a DROP of pure propanol (no water) would work as a test and may be a semi-permanent fix....if the fan is a little 'sticky', that is.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15743
Registered: Jan-08
Leo

I started to use WD-40 in the old TV tuner and potentiometer since over 30 years where contact cleaner does not work properly, propanol in a pot will destroy the resistor surface!
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 1951
Registered: Oct-07
Plym,
Please note I suggested a single DROP be used on the shaft of the fan.....This will help diagnose the fan. If the propanol helps, it may break up hardened lubricant long enough to tell if the problem is the fan or not. I don't know how the speed sensor works? Optical encoder? or whatever. What kind of motor is the fan? Brushless? DC/PM w/brushes?

Just my Opin, but WD-40 generally does NOT belong inside a TV. And certainly not being sprayed around anything optical. You might have gotten away with in in the CRT days, but a random spritz into the optics of a RPTV will create a real cleaning problem. Even that little tube won't help. The stuff comes out with enough pressure to still go to unintended places......
I'm reasonably sure that WD is also flammable.
 

New member
Username: Hudd

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-10
After 1.5 years of trying to diagnose from others post I will humbly ask for help.
I have been trying to diagnose the problem with my own Samsung HLN617w1x/xaa. The problem initially was that when I press the power button I hear a click then a long drawn out whinning from the ballast. I replaced the ballast and, for the past 1.5 years I have been trying to fix it, when the Power button is pressed I hear a click from the power board a slight "ringing/charging?" from the ballast and then a "power off" sort of click again from the power board. Lamp does not light. I have replaced the color wheel at the same time I replaced the ballast as the small white and blue wired connector was fried. I just replaced the lamp yesterday out of desperation with no change in operation. I had thought perhaps the fan on the ballast was not good because after the initial power board click the fan "flinches" as if starting then stops at the same time the second ("power off") click is heard. Should the fan run before the lamp fires? I am getting about 330(+/- 30) volts initially from the power board to the ballast upon the first click. No capacitors seem to have "bulged" on any of the circuit boards. A small green LED light is illuminated in the back (i suppose DMD) board while the set is plugged in. The lamp LED on the front of the set lights perhaps 0.5 seconds after the first click then turns off immediately when the second click is heard. This entire click-charge-"off"click process takes ~2.5 seconds. I have double checked all connections and fuses. I would very much appreciate any help.
Thanks
 

New member
Username: Hudd

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-10
I failed to mention above that I hooked the ballast cooling fan to a battery and it does spin and run seemingly fine.
 

New member
Username: Jwerms

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-10
new to the board here. i have the hln 46w model. my color wheel shattered and i followed an internet site for instructons on replacing. when i replaced the wheel, i somehow knocked the connector next to the 2 connectors for the wheel off of the board. tried crazy gluing it backed to the board, and had all 3 lights flashing in front. everything else (wheel, fans seem to work, but no light). i then attempted to solder the connector to the board, now no lights flashing, except the middle flashes upon start up...i 'm afraid i may have solder all 5 connectors together. can i replace the board, and if so, will it come with the connectors attached? or any other help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

New member
Username: Sfj10

Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-10
To Plymouth and Leo...thanks for your tips; for now I just dusted off thoroughly the fans (one right when opening the back panel and the other one behind the lamp enclosure - had to remove that one first)....It's working for two days now without any shut-offs.
Will keep you posted/or asking if anything else new comes up.
 

New member
Username: Suparoku

Louisville, KY USA

Post Number: 4
Registered: Feb-09
jwerms et al. I have a HLN467W which I would be happy to part out. It has a nearly new color wheel, a brand new lamp (just bought to test but the original lamp is still good). If you look at my posts (suparoku) you will see that the final diagnosis for my set's problems was a DMD board. I was never able to get a replacement from D-M or anywhere else so I bought another tv in the meantime. My set also has the matching stand which is quite nice. drop me a line here or at suparoku@gmail.com if interested.

thanks alot,
Bill
 

New member
Username: Hudd

Post Number: 3
Registered: Dec-10
ovadoggvo et al,

On my previous post I incorrectly stated the voltage coming from my power supply, it is actually about 380V as I believe it should be. Is it possible that the ballast I got awhile ago is no good?
 

New member
Username: Jdiaz517

Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-11
hello everyboby, i have a samsung dlp tv m# hlp 5663w, i have a problem with it, have black lines about 3'' w. all across the screen vertical. one year ago i change the lamp & the color wheel.
 

New member
Username: Calzonan

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-11
Hello everyone,
I have a Samsung HLR6167WX that is not working right. About two years ago I replaced the color wheel and it worked great for a while then a year ago I replaced the lamp and everything worked great. Today I was watching TV and heard the TV power down (like happens when the electricity to the house is lost). I tried turning it back on and there was no sound, the picture would come on but no chime and no sound. Then the remote and side controls would not work. After about 10-30 seconds the TV would power off. I'm so tired of troubleshooting this TV!!! Does this problem sound like a ballast? I'm not sure since there is no sound anymore. Please help....
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 16106
Registered: Jan-08
Welcome to eCoustics Calzonan!

The first thing to do is replaced the lamp then the color wheel engine, be sure that all fans are clean of dust and un-blocked!

I suggest you to buy a new TV like a LCD flat screen much more reliable than DLP!
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2246
Registered: Oct-07
The ballast is used to start the lamp, I think....just like the fluorescents in your house or at work.
I know, these RPTVs are a PIA. My Sony is about to get run over by a truck....OOOPS!

Unfortunately, Plym may actually be right for a change. It'll be one thing after another until you've bought a new set a piece-at-a-time and then it'll break again.

Are the new sets better? Who knows? I've even heard about problems with new Sony LCD sets. I could get my light engine for my SXRD rebuilt for maybe 300$, but than what? Same problem in a few years? no thanks.
The new stuff should be more reliable. Fewer moving parts. LED lighting lasts for thousands of hours. No telling about the panels themselves, though.
 

New member
Username: Calzonan

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-11
Thanks for the responses. We have replaced the color wheel about two years ago, and then the lamp last year. This is doing something completely new. I can sometimes turn the TV on, but after a couple of minutes it shuts off, occasionally there's sound, but not always. I hear the double tone, then it clicks off. I'm hoping it's another easy fix. We've only had the TV for about 5 years or so but have had soooo many problems with it. We have an RCA that's about 25 years old that still works. I can't believe I paid over $3000 on this TV and it didn't even run without breaking for longer than 3 years!!!
 

New member
Username: Calzonan

Post Number: 3
Registered: Apr-11
Okay, I"ve replaced the lamp and then the ballast...no help. I'm running out of options and have spent over $200. I've looked at what's happening a little closer and the TV turns on with remote, no start up chime. I get a picture for about 30-60 seconds and then it freezes and I hear a pop-pop (like a resister or something powering down) and the TV flashes off then right back on. This happens about four times and then the TV just shuts off with the standby temp red. No lights before or during all of this. I do not hear any strange sounds from the color wheel, it appears to be working, new ballast and light. I rarely ever get sound now as well, and never get the start up chime. What do you think this could be??? I know I need to just junk this TV, but I don't have another $3000 to spend on a new one!
TIA
 

New member
Username: Calzonan

Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-11
Oh, forgot to mention that I can not use the remote or the side controls to do anything with the TV when it is doing this.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2264
Registered: Oct-07
When you had it open, how did the connections to the lamp look?
Are they new or the old ones? These wires can get pretty hot and then corrode....this makes a high resistance connection which the set may not like. Carefully inspect where the wire crimps to the connector.

Any dust in the system? Is something getting too hot?
Make sure all the fans / vents are clean and the fans run OK.

this stuff is cheap / easy to fix or inspect. The next level? This'll cost for a visit to the fix it tech.
 

New member
Username: Calzonan

Post Number: 5
Registered: Apr-11
I haven't checked the connections, but I did get rid of the dust and checked the fans which were working. I didn't notice any corroded cables around the lamps. We have never replaced any cables and the TV is about 5-6 years old.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 323
Registered: May-07
Calzonan,
The problem you are experiencing is a defective Digital Board (80% Sure)... The digital board controls your remote functionality and menu system which seems to be failing. I would check D-M.com for a replacement part for your unit... It's not hard to change but it should resolve your issue.

***Disclaimer: These diagnosis are based on information given by you guys and please keep in mind that they are simply recommendations. I take no responsibility for mis-diagnosis since I have never seen, touched, or tested your television or internal parts****

And yes guys... I'm back here to help!
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 324
Registered: May-07
Hudd,
Sorry for the late reply.... The ballast may be the issue or a defective DMD board that is not sending the on-signal to your ballast... Please review the post I made here about testing / forcing on the ballast:

http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275&hilit=force+on#p275
 

Silver Member
Username: Mccambley

BREEZY POINT, NY USA

Post Number: 869
Registered: Jun-05
With over 2000 post why would anyone think they can fix these TVs. Even if you cure your problem another will soon arise. Stop wasting time and money on these rear projection sets that were built to fail. Get a new flat panel TV and you will have a better picture and be happy.
 

New member
Username: Localmotion00

Post Number: 10
Registered: Nov-07
I don't agree that these TV s were made to fail ...but I do think the technology was rushed to market. That being said, I've owned a nice Panasonic plasma and today I would still probably buy a Mitsubishi DLP for the price, size of screen and picture quality. I still prefer the picture of my Samsung DLP than the plasma.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 325
Registered: May-07
Casey,
I understand your frustration with your unit, however, I still believe that the technology is still great technology to this date. As televisions get lighter and thinner, it's essentially still the same technology that has been around for the last 10 years without much innovation. The current TV's are either LCD or Plasma with newer more efficient light sources which have resulted in less power consumption and less juice needed to power them. The technology still remains the same "LCD" with LED backlight... or Plasma gas technology.

When DLP came to the market, it blew everyone away with it's crystal clear picture and it's ability to provide faster refresh rates than any other technology. For this reason, nearly all DLP TV's had a Picture in Picture since inception while Plasma and LCD could not due to processor limitation and the lack of technology to get it there.

Currently DLP technology is used in 95% of Overhead Projectors in conference rooms, religious institutions, and command and control centers worldwide. The technology and it's light source were years ahead of it's time. The biggest Television in HD were and still are DLP powered by a UHP / P-VIP light bulb using Philips' innovative technology.

You can buy an 82" Mitsubishi DLP (which is essentially a Projector inside a big screen) for under $4000 USD. An LCD or Plasma Television would cost you over $40,000 USD.

Google 82" LCD TV and see for youself.

The time to market on DLP technology is way more cost efficient even after 12-15 years of constant improvement and innovation on the LCD and Plasma side.

I still think it's worth fixing that 46-82" Projection Television for $60-$200. The only thing that will happen with time is that bigger TV's will get cheaper, thinner, and better. If you can squeeze a few more years out of that DLP, you will be able to invest in a 2014-2015 model LED LCD w/3D Technology.

My 2 cents on the subject.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2347
Registered: Oct-07
Never been a big fan of DLP....in the single chip version. I think movie theaters use RGB version since I don't see the motion artifact I can sometimes see with color wheel DLP.......

I think the best missed opportunity in home TV was the LCoS stuff from Sony, Phillips and perhaps JVC. Sony, for example, has a bunch of patents on the light engine.....few of which, apparently, were used in the stuff that is junking itself out today. My SXRD set had a superb picture. Even good black levels after cal, though I'm told the colors could be a little saturated.

I've seen a list of Sony patents dealing with light engine cooling and have heard that not all of them....or maybe NONE of them made it to the production light engines. I know that if I didn't need to rebuild my light engine....what now looks like every 5 years based on my usage, that I'd keep the set until lamps were no longer available.

I'd love to know what corners were cut in the making of LCoS TVs and if this was opportunity lost.
I'd also like to know if DLP could be made more reliable with better, higher MTBF parts.
Most manufacturers are into saving pennies per unit.
 

Silver Member
Username: Mccambley

BREEZY POINT, NY USA

Post Number: 871
Registered: Jun-05
ovadoggvo,
I can not argue with your statement about size and dollars if some wants a 70" TV or larger rear and front projectors are way more reasonably priced then any flat panel. But most people on these threads are using 56" and more likely smaller sets. I have never seen so many people having problems with TV as with these rear projection sets. For that matter most companies have stopped making these TV. I recommend Plasma TV not LCD or LCD LED sets and yes Plasma can do picture in picture but most manufacturers have cut it out to cut cost because with cable or satellite most people don't use it. Plasma is a better TV in every category except energy use, brightness, heat, and thinness, but as far as the picture is concerned it is the best. The only reason DLP was successful at all was because of price. At the time when DLP was selling for $3500 Plasma was $7000 but that is not the case today, I have seen Panasonic 50" Plasma TV on sale for less than $600 and everyday cost of about $700. I am not trying to be mean spirited about this but helpful.
 

New member
Username: Courtney160

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-11
I have a samsung moel # HL-T6156W ...... this moarning I went to turn it on, and it was on for a total of a bout 3 minutes and then it power off. So I tried to power it back on I can hear it sound like it wants to come on no picture and no sound just fan noise. then the led lights by the buttons just blink over and over. Does anyone know what this may be ( lamp,ballast, pcd board, etc.)
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 326
Registered: May-07
Courtney,
First step is to take out the lamp and see if it's physically damaged/bad... If it is, that's your answer. Did the TV go black and white before it shut off? Did it make any noises?

Those symptoms could point to a bad color wheel or ballast. Most likely, it won't be any boards.

If you feel like it's the lamp, get a lamp. Make sure it's a Philips original lamp or else you may get into higher cost repairs for no good reason. I have seen people order generic lamps and then bring their TV into a repair shop... The problem was the new lamp was simply defective or did not meet quality standards... I would stay away from the following dealers since they specialize in selling generic lamps without specifying:
MWave
Electrified
Advanced Lamps

I would gear more towards:
Discount-Merchant (my favorite)
PartStore
Encompass Parts
SamsungParts (be careful, have got osram from these guys and they are not actually "samsung")

-- Make sure it's Philips brand from a Philips dealer... The following terms used mean GENERIC CHINESE:
Compatible
Genuine Compatible
Genuine XXX
Replacement

Normally dealers selling Philips will advertise the brand... If it doesn't say the brand, it means they will ship you anything they can get their hands on for cheap.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 327
Registered: May-07
Casey,
I agree that you don't want to go out and buy a 50" DLP TV's in todays market, but I encourage people to fix their TV when they can and when it makes sense. The reason is that the market and technology is changing so fast. I bought a 60" LED TV about 6 months ago... Now, we have 3D ... You buy a 3D TV today, there will be a BETTER 3D TV coming out 6 months from now... The reason: continuous improvement....

In 3 years, we went from LCD to LED, then to 3D, and now 3D LED... There is more to come and it's all new. If you can get your TV to run and work for another 1-3 years and you are happy with what you get, then do it..

In this economy, you should save your money for the next technology or when current technology becomes normality. The worse feeling is paying 1000-3000 for a new TV and finding out it's outdated... Like the BestBuy buyback commercial.

But let me tell you... There is much more technology to come and an amazing one is "Short Throw Projectors"... Putting a projector 2ft from your wall and getting an 80-100" Screen in HD 3D.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2368
Registered: Oct-07
Ova, I've got to chine in here.
I had a 5 year old Sony SXRD. You know, the one with the designed in defect. I wasn't about to fix it, than toss another lamp at it and still have problems in another 4 or 5 years. Nope.

Also, and I know this a a minority opinion, I could simply care less about 3D TV. Yep, the technology will change every 30 days until who knows when? I still won't buy the 'latest/greatest'.I like stuff that works. I did my due dilligence and went with a Panny Plasma. Yep, not as bright as my old SXRD. Blacks are super and color fidelity is fine. I can tell, because I put some of my color corrected photography on the screen.....SD card OR thumb drive! and it looks stunning with amazing detail and depth into the blacks. nice.

As for 'continuous improvement'....speaking as someone who was in manufacturing for 30+ years, I don't see it. Contininuous improvement is supposed to make things BETTER....last longer, and be better value. With the number of beefs I see online, I don't think stuff is built any better, but rather built to a duty cycle and lifetime.
 

Silver Member
Username: Mccambley

BREEZY POINT, NY USA

Post Number: 880
Registered: Jun-05
ovadoggvo,
You sound sincere in your argument but holding back a purchase for future improvement in home electronics or computers waiting for the next best thing will never work. These company will be bringing something new to the table every year forever that's how they make there money. But with 2392 entries on this thread alone has to say something about how bad a product these rear projections set are and be dumping more money into them when a more reliable solution is available at a reasonable price is crazy. 3D is not something that I even care about at this time and LCD or LCD/LED are garbage compared to Plasma. But since so many people are fooled by LCD, Plasma will die off and then LCD will be replaced by OLED. So should I wait for that technology which will be more expensive at first to become reasonably priced or just buy a 50" Panasonic TC-P50X3 for less than $700 and enjoy it today with less worry of when my bulb has to be replaced.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 328
Registered: May-07
You guys both make good arguments and your opinions are much appreciated. I do have a 60" LED in my home and I have my DLP's as well. I prefer to keep the suckers for $100-$200 rather than spend $700 on a plasma that will fail at the same time my 2nd, 3rd or 4th bulb will.

You are both right, these manufacturers can come out with TV's that last 30 years (Sony has done it before) but then their costs will be elevated and their business will not survive against the Chinese.. The duty cycle stimulates their business. Each manufacturer fully understands that it all starts with the TV. Once they get the Samsung or Sony TV in the house, the rest of the home theater, dvd, blueray by the same manufacturer will continue... When the "duty cycle" comes up, they rest assure that the people will come back to their brand because all their equipment is by "Sony" or "Samsung".

I actually think 3D has come a long way and will go even farther in the near future. Our generation will have to adapt to it, our young children's generation will be born into it.... It will just get better.

For now, i still recommend keeping those TV's running in this economy until the situation improves while better technology gets cheaper.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2372
Registered: Oct-07
I think Casey has a point about 'waiting'.
I wanted a new computer.....so I started looking for parts. CPU? kept getting faster. Memory....Too much is never enough! HD? fast spin and big buffer.
THAN......SATA came along. Stop until that settles down. OOOPS! no more AGP slot. PCI? now another slot and vid cards to match.
DDR? how about DDR2 or DDR3?
Every time I blinked It got wackier. I finally just BOUGHT the stuff and put together a new box. The LianLi case was meant to go thru 3 or 4 major rebuilds.....12 years is how I figured.
As things got crazier / more expensive, I GAVE it to charity and bought an IMac.

BTW, Ova, 'Better Technology' is never cheaper. The new / best stuff is always added at the TOP which is the most expensive. The best you can hope for is buying a top model from last year on closeout.
 

New member
Username: Therealtwayne

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-11
Hey all,

I've got a 56" Samsung HLN567WX/XAA that has screen flickering/flashing issues. Everything seems to startup correctly, no abnormalities, and the picture displays correctly. However, after about 15-20 minutes, the screen starts to flicker with white flashes randomly. It continues to worsen until the color washes out and it flickers nonstop, distorting the picture/color to something similar to a negative maybe? Most of the color is gone by this point. However, different from other posts I've seen, the TV has yet to turn itself off, go completely black, or lose sound. If you turn it off and wait for about 30 minutes, you can turn it back on and get another 15 minutes of good picture before it starts to flicker. It has worsened overall during the last 4 months, since it used to take over an hour of the TV being on before the flashing would start. I've replaced the lamp and the ballast with no effect, even removed dust and cleaned the fans.
Any advice?
 

New member
Username: Dazzleman

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-11
I have a five year old Samsung HLP5085 DLP TV. It turns on, the audio is great, the remote works, but no picture.

It started with intermittent black-outs, the unit had to be unplugged and wait 10 - 15 min then plug back in and it would turn right on.

Then one day the display would not light up and was gone permanently.
There are no failure indicator lights on the front panel. It turns on and looks like it is working perfectly, just a ghostly backlight glow bleeding from the Lamp. I can listen to the audio for hours. The unit seems to be working fine just no picture. I have tried all of the inputs.

I have verified that the colour wheel is turning, the lamp fires and is very bright (you can see it through the rear vents, so I guess that the MDM board # BP41-00139B is defective.

D-M does have this part in stock. Their price with the light engine attached is $320.

I found just the DMD board @ discounttvparts for $122.

My concern is that if I pop for the DMD board, and don't mess up disconnecting it for my current board and then re-attaching the light engine to this new board, what are my chances of this actually fixing the problem?


That brand new 47" Vizio for $583, shipped, is looking mighty enticing.
 

New member
Username: Krall6868

Spring, Texas USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-11
Here's a good one:
Samsung HLS-5687W
I have had this unit for 5 years about a month ago it locked up while in the menu, but was able to get that resolved. But the finishing touch is now when the TV is turned on the picture will display for about 30 seconds, then the display changes to two yellow blocks separated by black space. On the yellow blocks there are a series of multicolored lines cutting up the yellow blocks into rectangles. Then the picture will re-display. This will repeate 3 times, then the TV will shut itself off.
Wondering if it would be worth fixing this. I am considering a new TV but not a Samsung for sure.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2522
Registered: Oct-07
Just a guess:: but a darn good one,

Most of the color flicker / flash problems in DLP are due to color wheel issues. The bearings go bad and they can't maintain the correct speed or go faster/slower unpredictably.

The TV may have a color wheel speed sensor......it would probably be an optical encoder on the wheel shaft, the output of which the TV sees as 'bad' than gives it a few seconds to straighten out before turning the set off....
 

New member
Username: Krall6868

Spring, Texas USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Aug-11
Do you think it would be worth fixing?

I just got off the phone with "customer relations". The guy was a jerk, kept saying it was relative conserning my problem. I explained would you be upset with something this expensive and not be disgussed with it working only 5 years...his answer it's all relative...had to tell him to stop the cop-out and give a straigh answer, he could not. I will call back Monday to see if there is anyone else that can at least be nice.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2527
Registered: Oct-07
Only YOU can decide if 'it's worth fixing'.
My technique is to set a price in my head. If the repair person gives a lower number....fix it. If the repair quote is higher....junk it out.

That being said, I'm sorry to report that DLP as it came to consumers is a dead end. The single chip / color wheel thing is prone to failures and does so all too frequently.

Should a set last longer than 5 years? My Sony SXRD sure didn't, at least by much. Sony made defective RPTVs for quite a while, starting with the LCD stuff. A TV should last a decade at least. Just my Opin.

Ask to speak to a supervisor? You want someone who can make a decision, though in your case 'out of warranty' is code for 'out of luck'. You may get some offer of relief, but don't count on it. Sony had so much bad press and word-of-mouth with the RPTV fiasco that they are selling new stuff at a huge discount to owners who can prove they have a problem, which at some point will be ALL of 'em.
One reason you couldn't get a straight answer......Some people use the set 10hrs per day x 7 days a week. That's over 3500 hours / year. Others may watch the news 3 times a week and show a couple movies from DVD/BR on the weekend and run the set 500 hours / year. Tough answer, how long in years, either set should last?

New set? Do your homework. Look at all the threads on many of the common brands. There are threads on many LCD / LED panels as well as virtually all the older DLP stuff as well as ALL the Sony RPTVs.

I bought a Panasonic Plasma. This is the only set I found which didn't have an internet paper trail a mile long. More heat? yes. Not quite as bright? sure. Good color and terrific blacks are a given. Panel life is a claimed 100,000 hours, which is on par with LCD sets. Costco has a 720 Panny right now for 600$ in 50" while the 60" is about 1100$.

I'd look at extended warranty costs. Since the warranty people are only in it to make money, that should give some idea of the confidence level of the insurer. At one end, if they gave it away, they'd figure the set would never break. If the insurance costs as much as the set over 5 years, than they figure a 100% chance of total meltdown. I'd do some futher research on this subject.
 

New member
Username: Nkumar

Portland, Oregon (OR) United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-11
I have a Samsung HLM5065wx DLP TV. Two weeks back, on power on would have picture and sound only for 30 seconds. I don't think it is a bulb problem because with a bad bulb, the picture wouldn't show. That was the case 2 years back when the bulb went out (picture was missing but sound played). I dont want to pay $150 for a bulb if that is not the problem. What could be the likely problem? Is it worth keeping the TV? Thanks
 

New member
Username: Tails1974

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-11
Hi
Ive got a LA37R71BDX/XSA Samsung LCD. A couple of weeks ago the sound went really soft when the TV is on digital TV. We now have to have the volume on basically full (100) to hear it, where previously it was fine on 30-40.
Its only digital TV and all the other inputs (DVD, Wii) are fine. The sound is fine on our other digital TVs. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!
 

New member
Username: Brunswags

Post Number: 4
Registered: Oct-05
I have a 6 year old HL-R5067W DLP that has the fairly common green checkerboard pattern intermittently on power-up. The work-around is to disconnect power from the TV and then reconnect it and most of the time it will come up fine. Sometimes it may take several times before it works. So, i'm tired of this routine and would like to try replacing a part. From searching through many forums, it appears this is a fairly common issue that is caused by the DNIE chip that is on the digital board. Some people have tried physically applying pressure to this chip or have sent the board in to have the solder reflowed. Seems like the problem goes away for awhile but eventually returns.

Has anyone had luck replacing the digital board for this issue where it turned out to be a long term fix? I can get one of these online for about $140 before shipping and tax.
 

New member
Username: Bwilson

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-11
Help with Samsung Power Supply Board Model SIP40D

This is out of a Samsung TV LNA40A630M1FXZA

I am having the same issue with the blinking red light due to the power board. The only thing is that the capacitors are not my issue. What is my issue is the Metal Oxide Varistor's labeled DSC 2.5D-15. These parts are part numbers SIP40D- NT801 & 2.

The problem I am having is that no one can get me the information for the Varistors. I could easily replace them but no one, not even Samsung, knows the volt and uf for these varistors.

DOES ANYONE KNOW THIS? CAN ANYONE HELP?

Thanks
 

New member
Username: Jstern09

Chicago, IL

Post Number: 2
Registered: Nov-11
My Samsung HL-R5678w has developed the problem below over the last few months... started out as a slight difference in brightness on one half of the screen and has progressed to the green and red "tailing" that is seen below. It happens with all inputs and sources (DVD, xbox, HD DVR from comcast) and the left side of the screen is flawless.

Would appreciate any suggestions. I had the infamous shadow issue way back in 2007 and had the digital board replaced at that time; have also replaced the lamp twice (both times at about the three year mark). Thanks! Upload
 

New member
Username: Mrajotte

Post Number: 2
Registered: Dec-11
My Samsung DLP TV has recently had trouble starting up. Sometimes the lamplight on the front will flash twice but all I hear is a clicking and the tv won't turn on. Other times it will start fine but within 10 minutes, the color gets all distorted and then the picture goes off. After the 2nd scenario, we have to unplug the tv and then when it is plugged back in, it will start up with no problems. We replaced the lamp 2 days ago but it still has the same problems. Sometimes it works fine. Others (like now) will not turn on.

Any help would be appreciated!
 

New member
Username: Atucker

Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-07
I've asked this question on "another forum", but it looks like no one is answering:

I have a Samsung HLR4667WAX. I bought it in August 2006. The Color Wheel was replaced under warranty in January 2008. I replaced the projector lamp (3rd one) in August 2011. It has always worked great, until a few days ago.

The TV will turn on, and the picture is great...after 2 or 3 minutes, the screen will go blank (or "freeze", sometimes), then come back on. The "freeze" lasts maybe 5 seconds. The sound goes out when this happens. The screen doesn't go completely "black", you can tell the lamp is still on. When all this happens, the Timer light on the power button will flash. This happens every 1-2 minutes, maybe as long as 4-5 minutes, between "freezes".

There is a slight "buzzing" sound from the TV, but that was there, even before this started.

There is no "clicking" sound, like the ballast, when this happens.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!


Atucker
 

New member
Username: Scottyskilz

Post Number: 2
Registered: Feb-12
When power cord is plugged in...the TV will start up as usual and lamp will come on. Everything seems fine for about 30-60secs then the screen shuts off and i get 3 blinking lights in front. When i unplug the cord from the back (only way to shut off), I wait approx. a few mins and replug the cord back in. Now sometimes it fires up like before and other times it will not. It seems to try and start the lamp (lamp will fire up for like a split second) then shut off and it does this several times before giving 3 blinking lights again.
Help Please.

So i tried a few things to make sure it wasnt little things first before i spend any money on this tv. Reset lamp setting in menu (mute,1,8,2). I shorted the wires going to both the temp control and lamp door switch so i know it isnt those. I also powered it up without the lamp in and got the usual startup with the ballast trying to light up 3 times and then recycling. I get a chime on startup, green light on (by power supply) fans come on, i did check color wheel and it does spin...however there is a little bit of a humming noise coming from it.

Thanks for looking!
 

New member
Username: Grimace

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-12
Samsung HL-S6167WX
I purchased this tv used recently and it had the problem of powering up, then shutting off after 5-10 seconds. Then all 3 lights on the front blink. This is my first DLP and it sounded louder than I thought it should, fan noise type of sound. So after reading here and other places online it seemed to point to the color wheel. I removed it, and it did seem to have some resistance when spinning it by hand. I found a complete new light engine online for not much more than the color wheel itself, so I purchased that and just installed it. The tv is much quieter now on start up.

One thing that I do notice that is different now, is when I hit power, the two lights Timer and Stand By blink as it is turning on, then they turn off and the Lamp light turns on until it is powered up. Then of course it shuts down and all 3 lights blink.
I guess new lamp would be next, but don't want to drop another $100 and still have not have it working

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