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Archive through October 26, 2009

 

New member
Username: Mikehamb

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
Please Help.
I have a Samsung HLR-6768w the color wheel died and was replaced but now its like the picture washes out when the images are closer to the screen does it with HDMI from dvd and sat.
 

New member
Username: Atracker

Post Number: 4
Registered: Mar-09
Mike B. -- Realign the DMD
Drew Simmons -- Check my post
Sean- Chime in with any updates

I have not been back to check on things here but I see some of you have made reference to my response (Andrew). I will make an update on my post under Rear Projection TV's "The DMD Board is not always the problem". ATracker, 03-04-2009 I will try to help you out there.
 

New member
Username: Atracker

Post Number: 5
Registered: Mar-09
Johnny Marx

Go to my Post and I will try and help you there. I do not know for sure without checking that you can change out the parts from different HL-x numbers Give me your full Model number.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ds5775

Post Number: 25
Registered: Feb-08
To ALL Unhappy Samsung Owners.I have contacted a Lawyer about starting
a Class Action Lawsuit against Samsung for Defective Parts, Panasonic
had one and they lost there case for defective Parts Google it you can
see about it. But by reading all the posts here and on Many Many More
sites, It seems over 80% of us have the same problems with are Samsung
DLP TV's and now finding out that the parts are no longer available
after less then 3 years is a Problem this is just an FYI if they take
the case I am sure that many of you will want to get it on the suit, I
will keep you posted if you are interested
 

New member
Username: Yokemonkey

Post Number: 8
Registered: Apr-09
Samsung DLP 61"
Model# HLM617WX/XAA
Serial# 31HW2003**J
Manufacture Date - Feb 2003

Help requested.

My TV has a new lamp, lamp ballast, and color wheel installed.
My lamp will not illuminate unless the TV has been unplugged for an extended period of time.
Even then the lamp will only lite for 1 second, sometimes almost 30 seconds.

On rare occasions
I can get the service menu to come up for 4 seconds, then the image will either blank out or it will display black and white vertical lines sometimes horizontal, all while the lamp is still working. At this point the TV is uncontrollable and must be unplugged.

On very rare occasions
The TV (after many start attempts) will work flawlessly for days. But if I turn it off I may not get it on for days again.

Today's attempts
It turned on with a blank screen. I don't like to just unplug it because I don't want to damage the lamp, so I unplug and plug-in with a slight pause before I turn it on so the fan can cool the lamp. The TV starts on the second self start attempt, and is still on at this time - and will be until the next power outage.

Can anyone diagnose this problem?

I bought my lamp from DM
E23 100/120w 1.0

Do I have the right ballast?
I have the ballast BP47-00016A
(?V, ?A, ?W)

other ballasts offered
AA47-00008A (43",50") LAMP-BALLAST-TS
(370V,0.33A,100W)
BP47-00003A 61" LAMP-BALLAST-OS
(380V,0.4A,135W)
BP47-00009A
(?V, ?A, ?W)

My color wheel BP96-00250A

Thanks in advance
 

New member
Username: Yokemonkey

Post Number: 9
Registered: Apr-09
When I replaced my color wheel I also removed my temp sensor for a visual inspection.
It rattled when I shook it.

Is that normal?
Should there be something loose inside?
Could this be my gremlin?

Temp sensor part# 4712-001020

Thanks again.
 

New member
Username: Jmf_stl

Saint Louis, MO United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
I have a Samsung model HLN507W1. The TV works but the color wheel sounds like a saw going through plywood. I know this is probably answered somewhere in here but I have not found it. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

New member
Username: Jodalee

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-08
ovadoggvo or anyone else who can help me...

My Samsung DLP TV (HLR5667W) is displaying red on the screen. For the most part, it's red then every now and then it goes away and the picure is normal.. Any help diagnosing this would be appreciated.

Upload

Thanks,
Joda
 

New member
Username: Sammy61

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
I have a Samsung HLR6167WX/XAA
Symptoms: Picture blacks out but I have audio. Lamp is on in the back and I can't bring up the menu in any source (DVD/Cable/etc...). I have to turn off the TV and wait for the lamp to shutoff and then turn on the TV to get the picture back. This happens intermittently but frequently and sometimes it stays on for a while before it blacks out.

From what I have read it seems to be the DMD board. A Samsung technician said it could be one of the 2 boards.

Can anybody verify this and what part number do I need to order if it is the DMD board. Thanks for any help!
 

New member
Username: Mgreen200

Tuscumbia, Al United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
My HLR5078W DLP is on its last leg. The last two weeks it has experienced random picture lockups, pictures where the colors are primarly pink, green and purple, no picture with sound, weird green and black sawtooth patterns on screen, and weird geomentry. I replaced the lamp and cleaned the light engine last week. The picture was much improved but a couple hours later experienced same problems. You can unplug it for a bit and the problem usually goes away. I dont think its the color wheel. It looked good last week and its not that old. You can hear it spin up at power on. The problems happen a lot of the times when I am changing inputs. This morning the colors got funky after switching inputs, I checked the PIP and the colors were wacked also. I hooked my video camera to the composite inputs and they were wacked also> same for the menu screen. Does this sound like the Dmd board or the Digital board? I cannot find a new DMD board for less than $700. I have found a place that will repair it for $380 with a six month warrany. I can get a digital board for around $200. Which route should I go.
 

New member
Username: Zaphod_fl

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
I have the exact same problem as Andrew has. It all started with a Cable Card from Comcast. I am hopeful that they will cover the repair but am still looking to determine what the problem is. I have gone through the service screen and the DMD appears to be fine... All other inputs are fine, just Digital tuning. What is the final part(s) that need to be purchased to repair the unit?
 

New member
Username: Kc2cag

Centennial, CO

Post Number: 7
Registered: Feb-09
Hi,

Thanks to the excellent info and resources on this message board, I've replaced the shattered color wheel and put a new Philips bulb in my Samsung HL-R4266w.

While the set is now back in service, there are some strange color artifacts sometimes present. It seems that they usually happen in material which has been filmed, or shot live - such as newscasts - in low light. The colors sometimes seem like they have rainbow-like "oil slick" coloration around them. I tried using the service menu to adjust things, but the detailed settings appear too complex to funderstand and fix the problem. Does anyone have a suggestion to fix the problem?
 

New member
Username: Raideray

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
I have a Samsung HLR5667W that would not power on after turning it off at night (goes into standby). The next day it won't power on unless I unplug it for a few minutes. So I had been leaving it on for the last month and a half. Called a repair tech since all three lights were not flashing to indicate a bad lamp. He said it was the lamp and since the TV is 3 and a half years old so it was due. While waiting for the replacement lamp ( 3days), the original lamp went out completely. Replaced the lamp, but I still have the original problem that it will not power up until I unplug it for a few minutes. Does this indicate a failing ballast or power supply?
 

New member
Username: Big_d_z

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
I have a Samsung HLN617WX/XAA DLP TV. For about the past month, after startup the TV has either 1) gone blank with no picture or 2) freeze with a scattered set of white pixels. The frozen images of white pixels changes to whatever is displayed last (actually, its not completely frozen, if I stare long enough, I see pixels change state, either to black or white).

Here's an example of a "frozen" state:

Upload

Upload

I've tested this with DVI input and an analog input antenna-a. When it does go blank/frozen, I still get sound. I also get no blinking light indication of an issue. The power button on the remote does work to allow me to turn it off. I can change analog channels, change volume but no display works, i.e. menu, tv/video, pip, etc.

I've taken the back cover off and have verified that all 3 fans are working, the lamp is working and have used an C02 can to clear out any dust build-up.
 

New member
Username: Msv

Post Number: 5
Registered: Feb-09
Brandon

I think that it is your DMD board.

If so, I believe it is model (#AA41-00694E), it should work in most HLN models...It worked in mine.
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1077996-samsung.htm

Discount-Merchant should have this part for around $180-$200
Upload

(SAMSUNG N/A Projection - DMD Board AA41-00694E HLN437W/HLN507W)

DM recommends that you check the old part you have with the part they are selling on their website to make sure you are getting what you need.
Take the back shielding off your old DMD board, there are numbers on the board that you can cross-reference with the photos of the part DM is selling.

Upload

Good Luck
 

New member
Username: Rbsmith6

Machanicsburg, PA USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
I just installed a new color wheel assembly in a HLN4663. The noise is gone but the colors are all wrong. What did I miss
 

New member
Username: Big_d_z

Post Number: 4
Registered: Apr-09
MSV,

I checked my DMD board. I have version AA41-00694D (L26A).

Do I need to get this exact board? I only found the whole light engine for this version (out of stock) listed on DM.

Brandon
 

New member
Username: Mgreen200

Tuscumbia, Al United States

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
Does this look like a bad DMD board? The picture is like this on all inupts, pip, and menus. I did the dmd test in the service mode and the only screen that shows up is the blue one. The rest are solid black. If you unplug the set enough times it will eventulally go away.


Upload
Upload
 

New member
Username: Toms94

Post Number: 4
Registered: May-08
Bob Smith, I suppose that it is possible that you plugged the little flat cable on the new light wheel in backwards. I'd give that a try.

I still have a new/used color wheel for sale if someone needs it.

Long story shortened I have an extra BP96-00674A color wheel. I am willing to let it go for what I paid, $30 plus shipping. Anyone interested? Email me at ciscokid at gmx dot com.
 

New member
Username: Rbsmith6

Machanicsburg, PA USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
Never mind. The jumper is not on the color wheel. It is in the small square hole below the yellow and white sticker an can be removed through the light cover access without taking the entire back off.
 

New member
Username: Suparoku

Louisville, KY USA

Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-09
MSV et al.,

Unfortunately I didn't get the DMD board that my set needs (#AA41-00694E) before they went out of stock at D-M. Haven't seen them in stock for almost two months. I signed up for the email notification and haven't heard anything either.

Anyone know another part source?

Thanks,
Bill Spurlock
 

New member
Username: Foobar

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
Hi All - Any help is greatly appreciated. A few weeks ago my Samsung HL-T5075S started shutting off randomly while making buzzing noises. I immediately suspected the lamp and replaced that myself, but it did not fix the problem. I had a tech come to the house, and he diagnosed the problem as a bad ballast. He replaced the ballast a week ago, and everything was working fine until a day ago. Now, the TV shuts itself off (this time, without the buzzing noises). When I attempt to power it on, it makes the normal strong "click" and then nothing happens for about 30 seconds. After about half a minute, the lamp comes on, but I get no picture or sound. After about 3 minutes of this, it then turns itself off.

Another tech came out today and told me its the DMD board - $595 for parts and labor.

The TV is 14 months old, and like I said, it has a new lamp and ballast. Does anyone have any idea what might be the problem?
 

New member
Username: Msv

Post Number: 6
Registered: Feb-09
Bill S.
Sorry to here that...I hope that DM will be restocked soon!! You might call them to see if they could do a visual inventory, there might be one hiding in back corner of their warehouse.

Good luck


Brandon,

Glad that you checked your board...from what I understand is that D board is older than the E.
You might be able to upgrade, but the voltage might be different. I would stay with the same board you have just to play it safe.
You can also check with Ovadoggvo who is posting on, http://fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=46&p=209#p209
and may have the answer.
Good Luck
 

New member
Username: Ghaakenson

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
I have a Samsung HLS 5687w bought in 2006. Several weeks ago we started seeing light colored, bars around 4" thick scrolling slowly up the screen. They extend the entire width of the screen. I thought I had isolated the problem to our cable box PVR and was ready to replace it when the problem stopped for a couple weeks. Then it returned and about a week later the picture wouldn't come on (the lamp wouldn't light). I replaced the lamp 3 weeks ago and all has been perfect until tonight after a major rain storm. Now the bars are back.
HELP
 

New member
Username: Ghaakenson

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
The bars are green against most background colors, esp. white
 

New member
Username: Srv

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
Ovadoggvo, have Samsung HLR5067WX/XAA .
Replaced color wheel in November,replaced lamp last week. Will shut off right after your turn on, have to unplug and then hope it will return picture.
Has shaded area to left of screen 4" runs from top to bottom. before picture turns off TV pictures goes in slow motion, then the word HDMI appears at top left side of screen. Any chance to save this TV??
 

New member
Username: Toshmi

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
On the DMD board (AA41-00694E) for my HLN507WX there is a 3-pin socket next to the 4-pin socket which is being utilized for the color wheel. That 3-pin socket is not being used...does anyone know what it is? Could it be used for the color wheel using some sort of 4 to 3-pin "converter" (since there are only 3 wires...2 whites & a blue...to the 4-pin)? thank you...
 

New member
Username: Joe15720

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-08
Hi, need some help for sure. Have a Samsung HLN5065W/XAA that will not turn on sometimes. Does not respond to the remote or any of the side buttons. Sometimes you get get the start up chimes, hear the color wheel start up, but no image. Other times, nothing happens at all. Replaced bulb with phillips from D-M about 2 years ago. Replaced color wheel and ballast 3 weeks ago. Was having the typical bearing whine from the color wheel and thought while I was already in there to replace the ballast just in case it was the problem. Well TV worked fine for 2 weeks after wheel and ballast were replaced.
Thanks
 

New member
Username: Coolpairpl

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
Does anyone know how many volts should be at the two pin connector for the Ballast on a HLR6178W? I Have 325 +-

Thanks
 

New member
Username: Coolpairpl

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
Can't see if color wheel is spinning, not making noise, took out, not broken, spins freely by hand.

Changed lamp & Ballast

Have 325v to the balast

Tried service mode Mute 1 8 2 Power, nothing different happens.

Can I jump the low voltage verification circuit to the balast?

Any other sugestions would be appreciated.


Thanks
 

New member
Username: 120inna55

Athens, TX USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-05
This has been an ongoing issue but it's recently gotten worse. I hope someone here can help.

My set flickers. Period. That's it.

The image is not interrupted, there is just a very annoying flicker of brightness level that sometimes lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, then the flickering goes away just as suddenly as it starts. Today it's happening very frequently. It seems to happen less the longer the set is on.

When this has happenend in the past, I've replaced the lamp and all would be good for about 3 months then it starts up again. It may not happen for several weeks.

I've essentially replaced the lamp about every 6-8 months to avoid the problem, but I know it's not the lamp. It's not even associated with a dim lamp.

It has the same characteristics of a standard flourescent bulb that is going bad. You know, like the annoying flicker of those overhead floursecent lamps.

The set is on a good quality UPS with power conditioner. It has also done this directly plugged into the wall. Reseating the lamp doesn't help either. The only thing that seem to help is putting in a new lamp, but that only lasts about 3 months before the flickering begins to start back up.

What could this be? Ballast maybe?
 

New member
Username: Coolpairpl

Post Number: 8
Registered: May-09
I'm no expert but it seems to me that alot could be diagnosed from the five pin connector that goes to the ballast if you knew what pin and what it goes to was supposed to have voltage or no voltage for the component to be working properly.

Does anybody know the information pertaining to this?

Thanks
 

New member
Username: Imsasun

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-09
Hello. I have a Samsung HLR 5067WAX/XAA. It recently started exhibiting these symptoms. When displaying standard definition content input from either of the component inputs, the picture will freeze or blackout, primarily when the image being displayed is mostly white or fast-moving. The sound will also sometimes go out. This will last only until a different image would be displayed. For example, the 'I'm a Mac' commercials, which are primarily a white background, will display only a couple of frames and some sound, but the next commercial will likely be OK. The same material (even a DVR recording of it) will be fine if the source is connected via composite rather than component input, and high definition versions also display correctly. The source or specific input jacks do not seem to matter. Any ideas as to the cause would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

New member
Username: Jaydiar

Durham , NC US

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
Ovadoggvo,

I have a Samsung HLS5086W. It will not turn on. I disconnected the power and waited to plug it back in. When I did, the relay? made a click before I could even try to press the power button. After a few seconds the lamp light flashed green for a few times, then the middle light flashed green, then all three would flash together, I was told this was the bulb. I got a new bulb (phillips-like the orig.) it did not work, same thing happened. Help
 

New member
Username: Craigdlp50

California

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
Samsung DLP HLT5075S, began turning itself off randomly. Standby/Temp light blinks, clicking sound, but no lamp fire-up; may do this for a few minutes or a few hours, then the TV will come back on. The set may work for 5 minutes or 5 hours (perfect picture) before it shuts off again. Sometimes the sequence changes: rather than red light/click, the set will make a buzzing noise two or three times and the green LED will flash and the set will kick back on right away, but tends to revert back to red light/click sequence shortly thereafter.
I thought the problem may involve the HD cable box because the TV seems to recover faster if I turn the box off. Before I had the cable box replaced I unplugged it and ran the cable directly into the set. The set did not cut-out nearly as frequently (I'd say about 1% as often) as with the box hooked up. Cable company denies any connection, but a friend of ours told us they have the same problem since getting an HD box (coincidence?)
Tech diagnosed as either lamp (~3900 hrs on original) or ballast, but after reading the comments here I'm not so sure. He was befuddled by no warning light sequence. Waiting for Samsung to send parts.
Any thoughts?
 

New member
Username: Brysaintclair

Deerfield beach, Fl Us

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
okay i need some help.

i have an hln567wx, a samsung dlp. the set starts up fine, stays on, but a week back i noticed these white flicks, they became white flickers. a lot of them, about every twenty seconds or so. i changed the bulb, reset the bulb hour meter, and that did not help.

i've read so many forums on what might be the problem, it does not appear to be the color wheel. after closer inspection of said wheel, it is clean, and clear making no sounds at all.

yet i am still stuck.
with white light flashes.

any ideas?
 

New member
Username: Convergence55

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
Joe Langer: I believe the 5 pin ballast connector on the DMD has 2 grounds and maybe 2 active pins // LAMP ENABLE and LAMP LIT // I don't know if the fifth wire does anything for a living // also someone was questioning what the 3pin connector under the 2 colorwheel connectors was for and as I recall thats also a ballast connector (1 ground // LAMP ENABLE and LAMP LIT) .
 

New member
Username: Alex_n

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-09
Hi, I'm currently having a problem with my Samsung 46" DLP, model HL-S4666W, purchased in 2006. The picture begins to cut out about a minute after we turn it on, but the audio still plays for about 10 seconds after the picture cuts out. After the audio turns off also, we get the 3 blinking lights on the front. If we turn off the power with the TV remote, the TV tries to power itself on again. While it is doing so, the Lamp light blinks for about 10 seconds, only to go back to the 3 blinking lights. This cycle repeats itself until we hard reset the power/flip the surge protector off.

We've replaced the lamp and color wheel using parts from D-M, but the problem persists. After a hard reset, the picture will come on for another minute or two, only to cut out again until we hard reset. The lamp timer has also been reset from the TV settings, so we are completely stuck on where to go next.

The ballast was considered for replacement, but it seems to be working properly since we only hear one click every time the TV attempts to power on. If there are any suggestions to what else may be wrong, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-05
I have a HL-R5067W which powers up, color wheel spins and lamp lites. The picture is black, then after a minute or two shuts down, no blinks leds.
In the Service Manual it states the color wheel timing (CN502 pin 2) 180 Hz, I have 90 Hz, also states Allegro Clock
(DIO18)=8.33MHz? I have 12 MHz (ic704 pin 16). If I pull the connector of CN502 the unit fails with three blinking leds and lamp does not light.
So I am thinking I have a out dated service manual. If so then the LAMP_TX from the Digital board does not pulse at 180Hz (CN504 pin 1) when lamplitz goes low. .

So it appears the digital board is bad?
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 5
Registered: Dec-05
Changed digital today works great!
Anyone got a updated Schematic?
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 6
Registered: Dec-05
On My HL-R 5067w the 5 pin connector from the DMD board to the Ballast pinout is

1. Lamp_RX Form DMD pulse up to 30 seconds after Lamp_litz goes low
2. Lamp Enable , from DMD goes to 5 volts to turn the lamp on. Only if the color wheel is workin correctly
3. 5 volts from dmd
4. GND
5. Lamp_Litz from ballast goes Low then lamp is lit.
 

New member
Username: Sarric

Pryor, OK USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-09
Dennis,

I have been trying to get my Samsung R5067W fixed since April, I had this issue:

When I turn it on I don't get the startup chime anymore and the LAMP LED flashes for about 1 minute with no picture. The LAMP light stops flashing after about two minutes and then the red "Stand By/Temp" LED stays solid (as if the unit was shut off). Again no chime if I try to shut it off.

I called a repair place that I have used for displays that we sell. They recommended a bulb since I have never changed it, that didn't help. Then the repair guy came, installed a new DMD board, that didn't help. He then decided that it was the digital PCB. He ordered one for me and that was around May 1st. According to them it is on backorder. I asked for the part number to try to locate one myself. They said it was BN96-01859F. In have searched online for this item with no luck, I am wondering if this is the right part number. Did you replace the PCB board to fix your issue? Is this the proper part number? If so can you tell me where you got the part. I would love to watch my DLP again, but at this pace I am wondering if it will ever happen.

Any suggestions are welcome and I appreciate anyones response.
 

New member
Username: Crysman2000

Virginia

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-09

i was wondering if the light engine assembly part #
BP96-00822G would fit my samsung hlr5067w?
THANKS!
 

New member
Username: Sciascr

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-09
My Samsung DLP TV HLN5065W1X/XXA got real dark and I replaced the lamp (lamp had more than 8600 hrs). After I replaced the lamp, I have audio but not video. I am able to see the menu screens but no picture. The TV is out of warranty. The TV repairman says that it is the light engine and it's too expensive to fix (in excess of $900).
Has anyone seen these problems before: Audio, ability to see menus, no picture? Is it worth fixing this TV for $900? Thanks
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 7
Registered: Dec-05
Steve Arric
samsungparts.com doesn't list a BN96-01859F part number, there is a BP94-01859FASSY, PCB digital board which has been replace with a BP96-02168A . Which is on backorder.

Have a look at the digital board, the one with the HDMI VGA 1394 connectors, there should be a label mine was BP94-02084A, this is the digital board with shielding. and the part number for the digital board without the shielding is BP41-00237A.

What is the complete Model number of your Samsung mine is HLR5067WAX/XAA L64C
 

New member
Username: Craigdlp50

California

Post Number: 9
Registered: Jun-09
To: Steve Arric

Your problem is not the same as mine, but it sounds like it might be a lamp firing problem. Did the service guy check the ballast? I solved my shut-off problems with my DLP by replacing the lamp and the ballast. What's interesting is that I put the new lamp in and it didn't resolve the problem. I then replaced the ballast and put the old lamp back in since it had half its life left, but that did not fix it. It ran good for awhile but then starting shutting down again. It wasn't until I paired the new lamp and ballast together that it made the TV work.
 

New member
Username: Sarric

Pryor, OK USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-09
Dennis,

My model is the HLR5067WX/XAA. Can you or anyone tell me how to identify the digital PCB board. I really need to figure out what I need to get ordered.

Thanks
 

New member
Username: Sarric

Pryor, OK USA

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jul-09
Well after calling my repair place every day for a month to check on status of the Digital PCB, they told me that it is not looking like they will be able to get the part. I think they are trying to get rid of me. Anyway I checked with Samsung and a place called J&J. Both show at least a 4 week backorder. I offered to my repair place that if they take back my bulb and refund me for it, which they insisted that I try before coming to my house, that I will junk my tv and get something besides a Samsung. So anyway, does anyone have a PCB, part # BP96-02168A that they have lying around that you would want to sell. If not would anyone want the entire HLR-5067W/XAA? It is in fantastic shape besides the Digital PCB being bad on it. I hopefully will not have a bulb in it. Since they threw my old one that was fine away.
 

New member
Username: Foobar

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
Steve - I have a Samsung HL-T5075S that I am going to junk. After replacing the bulb, ballast and DMD board it still doesn't work. I don't know if my PCB is compatible with your model, but if it is, you can have it for free.
 

New member
Username: Sarric

Pryor, OK USA

Post Number: 4
Registered: Jul-09
Sean,

That totally sucks that you have to scrap that thing. I will try to determine if that part will fit mine and I will let you know.

Thanks again
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sottilde

Post Number: 18
Registered: Jun-08
Hey everyone,

I have a 61" HLP set that won't turn back on when already warm. I need to let it cool ~30 minutes before it'll turn back on again. It appears the lamp won't light - it doesn't flicker at all. The color wheel just spins up pretty loudly and powers down, also loudly - it sounds like a quiet jet engine powering up and down, it really scared me at first.

It has a brand new lamp and color wheel and performs beautifully, provided I just leave it on and don't turn it off and on much. Any help would be appreciated.
 

New member
Username: Harold_b

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-09
Hello all,

I'm having problems with my DLP. I tried turning it on, and it didn't come on. The led lights all blinked which indicated a defective lamp according to the user manual. I have now changed the lamp. The DLP still does the same thing, which leads me to believe it was not the lamp in the first place. When I turn on the DLP, the lamp lights up and the TV makes a noise (not unregular noise, maybe the fan or color wheel), the lamp then stays on for like 5 seconds, then turns off, then turns back on. It repeats this process about 4 times, then the led lights all start blinking again. Would the problem be the lamp ballast?

TV: Samsung HL-T6156W

Thanks for any help or suggestions
 

New member
Username: Sarric

Pryor, OK USA

Post Number: 5
Registered: Jul-09
Harold,

Sounds to me you are having the same type of issue that my TV has. I ordered a new bulb, no luck, had a DMD board installed, no luck, now they think it is the digital PCB board, but that part is on perputual back order too. If it is the PCB then I would recommend trashing it, buying a new one and forgetting your TV. It is a sad day when we can't get our high dollar tvs fixed and it is better to just buy a new $1000 TV. Good luck with what you do to it, or find out.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 304
Registered: May-07
Guys,
I just found this forum again after formating my drive! I had lost the darn link!

I will post and help you guys more this evening..

Steve,
Your Digital board is not going to cost much. Check on Discount-Merchant.com and if they have it, your looking at around $80-$150 .. These guys are very fair on their pricing and it seems like they get lots of inventory every now and then.

If they are out of stock, I wouldn't trash the TV. You can get it fixed sooner or later by sniping DM's website.

A few weeks ago I learned that they have a serialized inventory. Means each part on their website has only 1 qty. So if you search the website, and one listing doesn't have qty, another listing may!

Hence the reason they have 50 listings for the same item! I guess they use it to keep track of their inventory. I noticed when I order they send me the same EXACT part as in the photos. Even the sticker is in the same exact spot!

Anyways. I though this would help.

Now, since i'm soooo far behind... Lets start fresh! Who needs help and what are the symptoms?
 

New member
Username: Sarric

Pryor, OK USA

Post Number: 6
Registered: Jul-09
Ovadoggvo,

God bless you and your wisdom. I look forward to your answers and thank you for your info about the parts.

Steve
 

New member
Username: Joe15720

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jun-08
ovadoggvo!!!!!!!!!
So glad u r back!!!!!

Posted this a few months ago. Need some help for sure. Have a Samsung HLN5065W/XAA that will not turn on sometimes. Does not respond to the remote or any of the side buttons. I have to unplug TV, wait for approx 30 seconds, plug it back in and pray. Most of the time this will help and TV wuill turn on when I press either side button or remote. Replaced bulb with phillips from D-M about 2 years ago. Replaced color wheel and ballast 3 weeks ago. Was having the typical bearing whine from the color wheel and thought while I was already in there to replace the ballast just in case it was the problem. TV worked fine for 2 weeks after wheel and ballast were replaced.
Thanks
 

New member
Username: Kc2cag

Centennial, CO

Post Number: 8
Registered: Feb-09
Hi Ovadoggvo and welcome back! My Samsung HL-R4266W has functioned correctly (sort of) since I replaced the shattered color wheel and installed a new bulb. However...

Ever since the replacements, I now get weird color artifacts (like "auras" or rainbows) around objects, primarily (almost exclusively) when the video is of scenes taking place in low light. This happens on broadcast video as well as DVD's. When there is plenty of brightness in a scene, there is no problem.

Is ther some calibration I must perform to make the new components work properly?
 

New member
Username: Alex_n

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jun-09
Hi Ovadoggvo, hope you can shed some light on this situation.

I've got a problem with my Samsung 46" DLP, model HL-S4666W, purchased in 2006. The picture begins to cut out about a minute after we turn it on, but the audio still plays for about 10 seconds after the picture cuts out. After the audio turns off also, we get the 3 blinking lights on the front. If we turn off the power with the TV remote, the TV tries to power itself on again. While it is doing so, the Lamp light blinks for about 10 seconds, only to go back to the 3 blinking lights. This cycle repeats itself until we hard reset the power/flip the surge protector off.

We've replaced the lamp and color wheel using parts from D-M, but the problem persists. After a hard reset, the picture will come on for another minute or two, only to cut out again until we hard reset. The lamp timer has also been reset from the TV settings, so we are completely stuck on where to go next.

The ballast was considered for replacement, but it seems to be working properly since we only hear one click every time the TV attempts to power on.

Hope that was enough information, thanks!
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 8
Registered: Dec-05
Steve Arric

I think I found the PCB Digital Board here > http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 110636-samsung.htm
Samsungparts.com calls out part number AA41-01098B as a PCB Main for the model HLR5067WX/XAA. Enter your Model HLR5067w, which lists some basic parts, in the upper right hand there is a link
> "View Entire Parts List for this Mode"l ,you will find this part there.

If I were you I would disassemble the shielding on your current digital board and find the PCB part number making sure it is the same, warm fuzzy feeling.
On the discount- merchant site you can "Click here to view pictures of this part (if available)." Scroll down is see all angles of the part, including the PCB part number.

I was curious as to why your Digital Board ASSY was twice the cost of mine, when we both the same model, but different revisions. Your board has a different Tuner and splitter and they are not attached to the board, on mine both are attached.
 

New member
Username: Sciascr

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-09
Update
Regarding my Samsung DLP TV HLN5065W1X/XXA got real dark and I replaced the lamp (lamp had more than 8600 hrs). After I replaced the lamp, I have audio but not video. I am able to see the menu screens but no picture.
I tried the composite input with the result of audio but no picture. I tried the A/V input from a VCR with the result of audio but no picture. I tried the PC input and I got audio and picture. I see the lamp light, the fans all running, no abnormal noise, the video board has 3 green lights on. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 307
Registered: May-07
Steve,
Here is a link to a Digital Board for your TV that's in stock:

http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 107280-samsung.htm

The model number is different, but it should be the same digital board. Please verify that it's the same by looking at the high resolution pictures they have on the site. Also, your servicer may have to re-program the board to fit your resolution since it came out of a 46" TV.


---My first question would be:
Has the service checked for voltage from power supply to the ballast? This voltage out should be around ~380V.. If you have 380V, you must then text your ballast. Look at my post here:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&p=275&hilit=force+on+ball ast#p275

This shows you how to force on the ballast. Guys, as I say in my posts, this is inside invormation about the functionality of the circuitry of your TV and I take no responsibility for any damage to the set!




NEXT... Have you checked your color wheel. By color wheel i don't mean that the whel is spining freely. You need to check the sensor board on the wheel housing. If the sensor board is not functioning or the timing mark has been wiped off of your color wheel then your TV will not power on.

TV Startup sequence goes like this:

1. Power supply powers on
2. Sends voltage to DMD & Ballast
3. DMD Sends ON signal to Color Wheel
4. Color Wheel Spins at required RPM
5. If color wheel is spining at proper RPM, signal is sent to DMD board saying ColorWheel is OK.
6. DMD board sends 5V ON signal to ballast.

By the above link, we are simply eliminating the color wheel check and funcionality of the DMD in order to FORCE-ON the ballast.


If the TV does not turn on at all, it is a very small possibility that the digital board is bad. As you can see, the Digtal board has nothing to do with the boot up sequence and your Technician may not be experienced with this type of technology.

Let us know how it goes!
 

Bronze Member
Username: Coolpairpl

Post Number: 11
Registered: May-09
Hello, does anybody know where I can get an inexpensive light engine for a HLR6178WX/XAA?

Thanks

Joe
 

New member
Username: Msbob7

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
I have the same problem that Tom Kocialski does. My Samsung HLP5063W has functioned correctly (sort of) since I replaced the light engine. However...

Ever since the replacements I now get weird color artifacts (like "auras" or rainbows) around objects, primarily (almost exclusively) when the video is of scenes taking place in low light. This happens on broadcast video as well as DVD's (even Blu-Rays). When there is plenty of brightness in a scene, there is no problem.

Is there some calibration I must perform to make the new component work properly?
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 9
Registered: Dec-05
Robert Israel

You should get the service manual for your model. My HLR-5067w service Manual states if you change the light engine you should adjust the
1. Tilt Focus
2. V-Position and H-Position
3. Actuator Gain
4. Index Delay
5. CCA (which should have been attached to the new color wheel)

Hope this helps.
 

New member
Username: Kc2cag

Centennial, CO

Post Number: 9
Registered: Feb-09
Thanks, Dennis.

Perhaps that may help Robert, but I only replaced the lamp and color wheel.
Your advice seems to apply to replacing the light engine.

But, if the CCA (what's that?) needs to be adjusted on the color wheel,
maybe I should give that a shot.

Anyone have instructions on "adjusting the CCA?

Tom Kocialski
 

New member
Username: Hal9000se

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
Hi, my Samsung HLN467wx has been running great (other than the color wheel replacement a couple years ago) but now has developed a bad problem:

Turn on the TV, and all appears normal for a couple of minutes. Then flickering lines and color / artifacts begin to cover the screen. The entire picture appears completely corrupted/glitched within 30 seconds or so. The sound continues normally. No lights on the front panel are flashing or lit. No odd sounds come from the TV. At this point the power button on the remote and TV are unresponsive (the sound cuts off, but the picture corruption continues). In 10 minutes or so the picture goes completely black. After pulling the plug and letting the TV sit off for a few minutes, I can restart the TV and it looks normal, until the problem begins again in a minute or two.

If I unplug and restart the TV immediately after the above problem, then I get this new problem:
the TV seems to start normally, with sound coming on, but soon it shuts down and restarts itself before ever displaying any image. It does this 3 times, finally resting on a black screen with all 3 front panel/circle lights (Timer, Lamp and Temp) flashing on and off (Timer and Lamp are green, and Temp is red).

I've been searching around the net for hours today, and only seen one other mention on another forum of what appears to be the same problem, but they got no response. Any ideas?

I did read of known problems with the Digital and DMD boards, and that in some cases Samsung may even cover replacing the parts even for out-of-warranty TVs. Would be great if this is possible, is there any info available?
 

New member
Username: Mazu

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
Ovadoggvo,
After reading all posts I need a DMD board for my Samsung HLN437WX. DM out of stock. They don't show the light engine for my model. Any idea what the part # would be for light engine? After reading about all the problems, considering if even worth the few hundred dollars. TV is 6 years old and I feel lucky this is the first problem. Any other sources for reasonably priced parts I need? Not sure I want to wait months for a part. Thanks for all your help in this forum.
 

New member
Username: Msbob7

Post Number: 2
Registered: Aug-09
Thanks Dennis!!! I got the service manual and set everything up to the default settings described in the manual and then turn the tv back on and everything was perfect. All of the colors were sharp and perfect. Thanks for the advice. I love my TV again.

Tom Kocialski, I highly recommend getting the service manual for your set and comparing the settings in the manual to the settings of the tv.

Thanks again Dennis!!!
 

New member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 10
Registered: Dec-05
When I bought a color wheel for a HLR5067W, it came with a CCA Label, a table with values for RED, Green. Blue and white.
My service manual states for replacing the color wheel two adjustments are needed.
1. Index delay
2. CCA

Try to adjust the Index delay.
On my modelfs service manual:
INDEX DELAY Adjustment
Turn off the power to put the unit into the STAND-BY mode.
In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute" "1" "8" "2" "POWER" button on the Remote Control.
Select "Service" on the first display of the Service mode menu.
Press (Up or Down) button to move to INDEX DELAY, then press ENTER to select.
The INDEX DELAY setup screen (with a red bar at the bottom of the screen) will be displayed.
Press the (Left of Right) button to check the red color at the bottom of the screen at its minimum and maximum values of
changing from red to magenta, then adjust to the mean value.

Your model may differ, Maybe Robert IsraelI can help with index delay adjustment on your model
I took pictures of the service menu values before I changed anything
 

Bronze Member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 11
Registered: Dec-05
Robert Israel

You are Welcome, Thanks for getting back to us.

Opps I thought you had the same model number as Tom.
 

New member
Username: Kc2cag

Centennial, CO

Post Number: 10
Registered: Feb-09
My color wheel did not come with a CCA label, but the Index Delay was worth a shot. When I accessed that function, the "red" color bar was decidedly funky looking, with a distinct break near the right side with the color kind of rusty looking after the break. I played with the index and liked an index of 39 versus the index of 48 originally set. The red bar looked uniformly red at that setting.


By Golly! It may have worked. I sampled a few satellite channels, and I could not find any images witht he funny auras in them any more. Time will tell if I see them using other source material, but I think this may have fixed it!!!

Thanks!
 

New member
Username: Maiorinc

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
Ok, I feel really stupid... I have a samsung hlp4674wx and I'm pretty sure it needs a new lamp, but I can't figure out how to get the panel off! There is little rubbery button labeled lamp, but no combination of pushing/pulling/sliding has worked so far. I'm afraid I will break the panel. All the info/pictures online show a totally different looking panel.
Help!
 

New member
Username: Mscompwizz

Gonzales , La USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
I have a Samsung HLR 5667wax/xaa it is about 3 years old I got up 3 days ago and turned on the set it was green and jumping around .I checked all conections but nothing had changed from the night before . after a while I pulled the plug on the set , then plugged it back in and it was good . I thought the problem was a surge pertector , well the next morning the same thing and I had gotten rid of the protector . again I unpluged it and pluged it back and it was good all day . Well today it happened again what is up please let me know if you know
 

New member
Username: Raideray

Post Number: 2
Registered: May-09
Debbie,
I have the same model and experience the same symptoms. Sometimes I have to unplug and plug it back in a couple of times and it works. I posted about this back in May and no one responded. It still works 4 months later.

Ray
 

New member
Username: Mattdrew

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
Hello All,
I have a HLP6163W. Through the years I've replaced the lamp and the color-wheel with the help of the internet, and each time the problem has been fixed. My problem this time seems to be more complex and I haven't been able to find the answer. The lamp comes on at start-up and seems to work fine for a few minutes, the picture is bright and clear. After being on for a few minutes the television simply powers down without any sudden noise or anything out of the ordinary except the 3 flashing lights on the front. I can always turn it right back on by pressing the power button, but after a few minutes the cycle repeats. Thank you in advance for any help or advice.
 

New member
Username: Chadlip

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-09
This seems like the place I need to be. I love that there are knowledgeable people out there willing to share there advice and experience. Thank you.

I have a Samsung DLP HL-R5078W that is giving me problems. About half the time it will turn on with no problems. The other half it will need to cycle up to 15 or even 20 times before it will turn on. Once it is on it runs great. There are no common environmental factors that will effect when it will turn on or when it gives me problems. Sometimes I hear a whining on one of the failed cycles (color wheel?), but usually it goes like this:

I turn it on with the remote or the button
The light bulb turns on
I hear the little song to indicate the TV is turning on
After a second or two, the bulb turns off
The bulb may or may not light again
Then the relay (I assume it is a relay, it clicks) turns off

The cycle starts again


After three tries, I must hit the button again (all lights on power button are blinking.)

The timing of the bulb turning on and off in relation to the startup song does varies sometimes.

I have tried 3 different bulbs with only temporary, if any, success. Thanks for any help.
 

New member
Username: Harold_b

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jul-09
I have the same problem as the post above from chad. only a different model: Samsung HL-T6156W

The lamp doesn't stay on but for maybe 3 seconds, and the lamp gives off a bright light at first then lowers and goes off. maybe ballast, or power supply?

I have already changed the lamp, and color wheel with no success. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

New member
Username: Fdcervantes37

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-09
I have the same issue with my screen going green. Heres the problem. About 1 month ago, I moved my Samsung DLP 4667W from one side of the room to the other. I turned everything off, powerstrip everything. Moved the TV, plugged it in and had the same green lines/pixels over the screen.
However, if I unplug the cord from the strip and plug back in, its a 50/50 shot that they will be gone.
Heres the weird part, if we are watching a movie through the DVD input, its perfectly fine 100% of the time. So what could be the issue? Works fine with movies, but not on Cable or AV1? I had cable guy come out didnt charge me. Its not the cable box. Any help? Thank you.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 12
Registered: Dec-05
A possible fix for the HLR models with digital board problems.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-boar d-problems.html#post184935
 

New member
Username: Chadlip

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-09
I replaced the Ballast in my TV (see forth post above this one) and it got rid of my problem.

I used this ballast:
BP47-00027A

It was a little different looking then the one that was in the TV, but it has been working flawlessly. Knock on wood.....
 

New member
Username: Waltl

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-09
I have a Samsung HL-P6163W. After it is on for about an hour it develops a screen full of vertical thin white lines. It's like looking through open venetian blinds. See the included photo.Upload
 

Bronze Member
Username: Denbo

Post Number: 13
Registered: Dec-05
Waltl

My service manual for the HLR models states for you problem change the DMD board but it states that for just about every problem, try to vacuum the fan for the DMD board and or check if it is working.
 

New member
Username: Mattdrew

Post Number: 2
Registered: Aug-09
Replaced the lamp, good as new.
Discount-Merchant.com
 

New member
Username: Joekey311

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-09
Hey there, great site and thanks for all the free info everyone dishes out.

Ive been trying my best to figure out how to fix my set manually, and would appreciate any info on where i should start.

I have a Samsung HLR5678WX thats been having issues for the last few months. When it turns on the green lamp LED flashes and it takes about 15 seconds to power up. The screen will show up for between 10 to 15 seconds (I have the Source set to DVD with the DVD player turned on), then the screen goes black for about the same amount of time, 10 to 15 seconds. It repeats this over and over, for around 10 minutes or so before shutting itself off.

I try using any of the menu buttons on the TV, and nothing happens. When i use the remote (i push any of the buttons on the remote) the TV doesnt respond, and the red LED will flash anytime i use a button on the remote.

The lamp is lit up the whole time, and i dont hear any odd noises. Audio works fine, i have it set up through my audio receiver.

Any info or thoughts is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance :-)
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 308
Registered: May-07
Walter,
Does your menu appear with lines in it as well? What about your picture in picture?

If yes, then DMD.

If no, then Digital Board.

I would call D-M to see if they have it in stock. My favorite sales rep there is Sam at x523. He has access to parts that aren't on their website!

I've been purchasing stuff from him that aren't on the website... but shh.. don't tell anyone. Then i won't be able to get a hold of him!
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 309
Registered: May-07
Joe Key,
The problem is most likely the digital board that controls the menu system... Digital board is the one that has the DNIe chip on it.

Looks like one of these:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=projection+digital
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 310
Registered: May-07
Felix Cervantes,
The problem is most likey your Analog board... looks like this:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 110572-samsung.htm

The problem may also reside on the DIGITAL board as that fails often as well. Check your PIP and see if you still get the same problem. Also check your VGA and DVI connections. If they work, most likely your Analog board.

There are times where both boards fail. I have seen this recently.

I would check Discount-Merchant.

Anyone found a place other than D-M for TV parts? I haven't so far and I live by these guys. They are great to deal with and they have parts I would never find anywhere else. I wish there were more parts suppliers like these guys.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 311
Registered: May-07
Harold,
Ballast is most likely the problem. The HLT and HLS tv's have a common issue with their ballast.

You can get it here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/ballastbp47-00037a_bp47-00033a.htm

It's a 132W ballast.
 

New member
Username: Dementia

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-09
I needed to have some electrical work done on my house, so I powered off and unplugged all electronics, including my Samsung HL-R6167. Shut off the electricity at the main, did the work, restored power. Plugged everything back in, tried to turn on the tv, lamp lights flashes, there is one click, light comes on in back, lamp light quits flashing, there is another click and the light goes off in back. I can also here what sounds like fans spinning as well. Have tried unplugging for 1 minute up to 10 minutes then pluggin back in, still won't start. Any ideas what the problem is?
 

New member
Username: Atik

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-09
After some time half of the screen is black. I turn it off and on a few minutes later it is back to normal for a while.

Ovadoggvo, I believe you told another person that had the same issue to replace the digital board. Is that right?

Thanks...
 

New member
Username: Cmlyneis

Post Number: 1
Registered: Sep-09
Samsung HL-R5067
Current problem. Start up. Color wheel spins up, no startup chime. The light turns on, the led lamp light flashes for about 45 second to 1 min, then no flashing for a few seconds, then TV cycles off.
Earlier problem, it would run for hours or days and then begin cycling with picture freeze, no sound and the "recycle" and work for some minutes. This could be "cured" by unplugging and replugging it in.
Other issues, the HDMI port stopped working and would say no signal. The analog input for a VCR gave a green screen.
I replaced the light a few weeks ago and had a good bright picture using the component input from the Cable DVR, when not plagued by other problems.
I have read may posts, but can figure out if it is the light engine, the dmd, the digital board, the analog board or some combination. Short of a clear diagnosis it is likely to get recycled as the wife is in HD withdrawal. Thoughts, suggestions, diagnosis?
Thanks
Claude
 

New member
Username: Dhuddy

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-09
Hello!
Samsung HLR 5067 WAX
I won't bore you with my issues until now, just let you know my color wheel was in pieces. Easy enough, right? WRONG! I can't seem to verify with certainty which color wheel I need. I have the one with the silver hub, but apparently that one is almost impossible to find now. There are two part numbers that say they work for the 5067. So I guess my question is, if I get a color wheel with a housing that looks to be the proper shape, will it work? Even if it is the gold hub? Or do I have to be 100% accurate? Thanks for everything!
Dave
 

New member
Username: Greego

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-09
Hi,
think i'm having a simial problem, i have a 42" samsung plasma tv when i turn my tv on to DigitalTV it has a coloured bar across the screen with blue, green pink pixels and if i got up or down a channel it goes away. when i turn it on to hdmi (av) it has small box like the screens broken up and jumbled about. it happened quite recent ive own it about 2 years now.
i had a pro look at it and he said its the main board and told me it would be £250 but i wasn't garenteed it would fix it! so i didnt pay for the fix.

Model: PS-42Q96HD
Model Code: PS42Q96HDX/XEU
Type No: CA42Q9

its realy annoying because i can't play my ps3 on it, am having to play on a 26" screen and its not good lol.
hope you can maybe help me?
 

New member
Username: Localmotion00

Post Number: 7
Registered: Nov-07
I have read through quite a few archives but haven't come across this particular issue as of yet. I first have to say thank you Ovadoggvo for the service that you provide. It's a great thing that you help people the way you do. That being said, let's see if you can point me in the right direction. I believe I made a post about a year and a half ago and I solved the issue by using my HDMI input. The problem started one sunday afternoon while I was at my kitchen table on my laptop. My g/f was watching 'My Big Fat Greek Wedding' when I had looked up and noticed she was sleeping. I also noticed that my TV screen was black and the 'No signal or weak signal' message was on the screen. I had called Samsung, got to their executive customer service, played some phone tag and that was the end of it. I talked to a service guy at some point in time and he told me it was the digital or analog board (don't remember which). Wanted like $900 plus labor. Told him he was smoking crack. Once I got a new Hi-Def box it was ok because I just used my HDMI port, although for my PS2 I went back to S-Video (!!!!!) All was 'well' until the other day I turned my TV on and I had the same issue with my HDMI input. It had been working the night before. What I don't understand now is that my VGA port works because I use it for my computer to watch movies I download. All the S-Video ports work. I haven't tried but I assume my component inputs still are not working. So what could the problem be now? DMD board, analog board, digital board....???

On a side note, back in the days of my component input problem I had entered the service menu to have a look see. I had wanted to go in there to start to try to fine tune the colors and stuff. I made an error by being curious as to the options for the Engine. I happened to hit the arrow button to see what options there were but instead it was more of a toggle. All of the sudden the Zeiss engine was selected and my image flipped upside down. I eventually got it back but it looks like it threw some things out of whack. I now have a faint shadow on the left side, usually only seen in dark scenes, and I can see some light come from the bottom of the screen near the frame. There was big time 'screen door affect' but I adjusted the actuator gain a bit to fix most of that but still not as good as it used to be. I came across a post the other day talking about being able to send information between the light engine and the DMD and vice versa depending on what equipment you had changed. Is this accurate and do you think this will help my issue regarding that? I still want to solve the issue of my HDMI and component inputs because now I have no hi-def. If I can fix it for a couple hundred bucks that's worthwhile.

Sorry for the long post. Any help will do. Thanks.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Coolpairpl

Post Number: 12
Registered: May-09
I am Parting out a HLR6178WX/XAA it was diagnosed with a bad DMD board everthing else checked out OK, You can cross reference parts at partstore.com as they have a see all models this part fits. Let me know what you need I'm sure we can make a deal. call Joe 904-826-3381 or email coolpairpl@aol.com
 

New member
Username: Mrgary

Raleigh, NC Usa

Post Number: 4
Registered: Dec-06
HLP5063W, five years old - 4400 hours. Recently thought picture was kind of washed out with little contrast. Took off side access covers and cleaned lens with camera lens cleaner. AMAZING - picture again has a "WOW" factor like when it was new. Are there other optic type things inside the set that should be cleaned.
This TV set the standard for fine HD reproduction in it's day. It can still compete with some of the newer technologies. What ever I paid for this TV - it has been worth it given the enjoyment received with it's super sharp picture. Not a single hick up with this TV thank goodness. FINGERS ARE CROSSED!!!
Wish others reporting problems would go into service menu and tell us how many hours they have on their TV's when the problems crop up.
 

New member
Username: Supernovaa

Philly , Pa

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-09
Hi I am hoping this is not a double post as I had to hit the back button and my original post dissapeared. I have a Samsung HLN507WX/XAA and please tell me what this slowly growing shadow on the right side is and the wretched wood sawing noise that gets louder ever time I turn it on as well please tell me what kind of blood curdling malfunction that might be. I had a whole new light houseng and lamp put in March 09 and had a great picture for about 5 months I have not even had the time to watch it so really in it's only been on a total of 3 months . There is no dust and there is no shadow adjusting menu item and all I can find online about it i is a classaction suit that when I look in the gallery the last picture of the shadow defect looks exactly like my problem so much that that I will be signing up for that. If indeed I can fix it with a simple can of air please tell me before I wage war on a poor support tech who will undoubtedly make me fight for results. I am a petite lady who does not want to lug it around and pay $ 100 just to get an estimate because yes due to it's big size it's $100 dollars for the repair guy to give you an estimate and he gets to keep that hundred dollars if I don't like the estimate or he will apply it towards the full price so you don't feel like your getting a total shaft if you go for it and he overcharges you. if I want to learn how ro fix it so I can get a sense of accomplishment and save a buck then I will buy a broken tv and fix for cheap . I paid alot and I am still paying and I should not even have to know what a color wheel is let alone be sitting here considering taking one out and installing a new one I know I can do it but I also know if anything goes wrong at that point getting it fixed will be an even more expensive joke on me. Just tell me this could it be a simple cheap easy fix or is it the class action problem it looks like? And please where might I find my build number because it I have to turn it on to find it I want to go directly too it so as to not torture my ears. I have looked at every sticker and label and cannot find anything clearly maked build no. so that might help me in the end if you could be so kind. Thank you for any help and for your time.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 312
Registered: May-07
Mike G,
You're right... The problem you are having is most likely the digital board.

Claude,
The problem you are experiencing is most likely the digital board as well. The digital board controls your menu system and startup sequence. You're light engine does not need replacing. I would look on D-M for a digital board. If that doesn't solve it, the DMD can also be the source of the problem, however, the chances are 80% Digital Board, 20% DMD board.

Good luck guys!
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 313
Registered: May-07
Dave Huddy,
You're TV has two different color wheels, you're right. Either one will work as long as you purchase it with the housing and install the jumper on the DMD board accordingly.

Information about the different color wheels and jumper can be found here:
http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/samsung_bp96-00674a_colorwheel.htm

Good luck.
 

Silver Member
Username: Ovadoggvo

Post Number: 314
Registered: May-07
Gregor Burt,
You're TV is a plasma television and it is different in configuration from the rest of the people here. The problem you are describing is most likely caused by a defective video board. The main video board is where your inputs are plugged in. I would remove it and look for a part number on the board.. It should be in the following format BN__-_____ .. Look on DM.com or PartStore for the part and replace it.
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