SAHR - Re: BELL 3100 & DIGIWAVE issue

 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 199
Registered: Jul-06
Q From Sahr:
"Is there no way that I can have one wire going into the room where the TV is and do some kind of spiliting at the end of that wire to give feed to two receivers."

My Answer:
Yes there is:
Behind the Digiwave 7000, there is an F-Terminal that is labeled as "IF Loop-Throught Output". You will connect a cable to that F-terminal, while the other end of the cable goes to the Satellite-In of the BELL 3100.SO YOU CAN RUN BOTH RECEIVERS AT THE SAME TIME.
No need for DP-34 switch. You should not have a problem with this suggestion. I had this set-up with my subbed DN 811 HDTV receiver connected to an FTA box without any problem.


QUOTE FROM SAHR previously:
1.Hi Guys , I need some help with an issue as I have not been able to solve. It has to do with loss of dish signals when I use a splitter to split the signal from the Sattallite dish (coming through a DiSeqC switch) to feed it to two receivers digiwave 7000 and Bell 3100 that i have. I use the splitter after the switch.
I have 3 dishes: 1. BEV 91, 2. Echo 110, 3. Echo 61.5. The 3 dishes feed into DIGIWAVE 4x DiSEqC switch and I have bell dish on port A, echo61.5 on port b and echo110 on port c. From the switch the cable goes into digiwave receiver where I can select echo 110 and echo 61.5. Earlier, I was just manually shifting the cable between bell receiver and digiwave. But to avoid this hassel ,I purchased a splitter (2.3Ghz) with 4 power pass ports so I can give input to two receivers without having to shift the cable. But the moment I connet the splitter and the two receivers, the bell receiver looses signal. The bell receiver also looses the signal when I change the channels on the digiwave receiver. Some how they seem to be connected even though I thought by using a splitter the splited signal should be independent . Is there a way to split the signal after the DiSEqC switch to feed it to two receiver so they can work independently? Am i using the wrong kind of splitter? Of so, please let me know of the proper specifications and where can i find it.

Earlier the bell receiver was giving trouble when I tried using bell dish on other ports of theDiSEqC switch; it only seems to work if i give bell dish the Port A. . If someone has insight on this i will deeply appreciate it. Thanks.

2. TDG, Thanks for clarifying some of the issues. I have removed the splitter, but then what should I use in it's place to give output to two receivers without loosing signals for one or the other?
And some body mentioned that I hijacked panachalover's thread, I did not hijack anything. I just posted an issue for help. I thought that was the purpose of the foroum and beside this thread seems revelant cuz people were already dicussing various combinations of LNBs and receivers.
Anyway, now can someone please advise me as to what to use in place of the splitter that I was using to give feed to two receivers? Thanks.

3. TDG, Thanks for all the help and the nice diagram. I guess, I have to buy a DP-34 switch. It seems that I will still have to run two separate wires to the two receivers.
Is there no way that I can have one wire going into the room where the TV is and do some kind of spiliting at the end of that wire to give feed to two receivers. This is cuz I just have one tv, but two receivers. Thanks.
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 202
Registered: Jul-06
Origin of this thread was from:

https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/269432.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 206
Registered: Jul-06
Bump...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sahr

Post Number: 13
Registered: Jun-06
Hi TDG
I looked for the terminal labeled as "IF Loop-Throught Output" at the back of the digiwave 7000. But there is nothing with that lable. However, there is an outlet labeled as LNB Out, so i connected that to the Bell 3100. With this connection, some channels did start to appear, but not all of them. The other thing I noted was that when I change a channle on the digiwave, the few channels what were being shown by bell 3100 earlier, disappeared and some new channels started to appear which were not there before. Similarly, when I change back the channel, the same old channels reappear. While doing this, both digiwave and bell 3100 receivers were on.
What do u think?
As always, appreciate your help.
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 207
Registered: Jul-06
I did not have that trouble with my set-up, using the IF OUT, and I had done it few times and different receivers, but not with digiwave.
If those missing channels are that important to you, then, you will have to use an IF switch/selector that you can buy to electronics store, such as best buys, fry's, I got mine from Target store. I had 2 of them before but possibly gone already. Give me a few minutes , & I'll show you what it is...
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 208
Registered: Jul-06
Sorry, I knew they're all gone.
Correction, it's not IF, it's RF cable Selector. In the older days, it's widely used to switch to different sources such as VCR, Antenna, cable, video game and etc. They may not be available anymore though. I don't think you'd like it any way, since you have to push/select switch to go to another device.
So you may go back again with the previous route.(DP-34), if switching cable behind the receiver is a hassle. Just note how the diseqc switch is connected to the DP-34, it is essential for the Digiwave.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sahr

Post Number: 14
Registered: Jun-06
Well I checked around and it seems RF switch is still available. Actually I may have one lying around somewhere in the basement. Now as I remember RF switch only splits the signal upto 900 Mhz , usually suited to split RF output. I am not sure if it is going to split the dish signal to give it to two receivers. But I can try and update you tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 212
Registered: Jul-06
Well, if the switch has components inside, just get rid of them, and solder them directly (jumper wire), to it's designated selector, so as to avoild any "resistance" Grounding is also important, so make sure you check all connections when modifying. DP-34 is not that costly though, specially since after the last ECM. It has to be a ordinary selector switch or push switch, not someting that is powered.
900 MHz is way too low. Digital data is transmission will be impaired if there is a low frequency device along the line (Between receiver & LNB).
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sahr

Post Number: 15
Registered: Jun-06
I made a diagram of my setup and the stuff you proposed. Now the the part where I put "????" is the one I still dont know how to resolve as that is the point where the dish signal is to be splitted in two for input to two receivers.
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 214
Registered: Jul-06
Wrong diagram...Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 215
Registered: Jul-06
I mean, above is the right diagram, and you got your diagram wrong.
R U sure you don't want to spare $30 for a DP-34 (shipping included) @ fleabay? You might need it in the future anyway, for multiple receivers/TV.
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 216
Registered: Jul-06
OR:
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 217
Registered: Jul-06
http://cgi.ebay.com/DISH-NETWORK-SWITCH-DP34-DISHPRO-DISH-500-WORK-DP-TWIN_W0QQi temZ280028510345QQihZ018QQcategoryZ67885QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item2800285103 45
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sahr

Post Number: 16
Registered: Jun-06
Well, I dont mind spending 30 bucks on the DP-34 and especially when it is still a good solution you gave me incase nothing else works. The only reason I am bit stubborn about using it right now is cuz it would mean that I will have to run two coaxial wires from the DP-34 to the two receivers, and that is what I am trying to avoid. The option that u gave me about the RF switch and taking out all its internal components, I will try to do that first and if that does not work then DP-34 is my backup. The RF diagram that u modified for me, I think I will have to tune tv on two different channels, one for digiwave and one for bell. Only then I will be able to shift between the two receivers. In my diagram, I was using the RF switch to shift. I guess, there is nothing similar to RF switch available which can be used to switch between digital satallite signal right after the DisEqc switch or to split the signal for two receivers by maintaining its independence. Thanks.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Jerry711

Throop, Pa. U.s.

Post Number: 28
Registered: Aug-06
dp34 switch 4 sale have many 20 us
 

Silver Member
Username: Oleg1474

New port richey, Fl Usa

Post Number: 269
Registered: Aug-06
MY PANSATs WORK OKEY...
NEW (ECU/EURO06)
 

Silver Member
Username: Nydas

Post Number: 538
Registered: Jun-06
Sahr:
Before you proceed, I suggest you read this I posted to a guy in August.

HRPI-18 18 v DC Power Inserter is a good and cheap solution.
From another forum:
:Agreed, I dont understand why posters dont understand what were telling them, as mentioned several of us including some mods here discussed this at lengh. Alto work arouds exist, the dp34 and a vs (whather its 1, 2, 3, or 4) of them attached will not work, and if it is its dumb luck.....because of the current draw of the switch itself. Once you start mixing diffrent brands of STBs in the mix Im sure the results will vary, however the 2 proven reliable ways are 1. Attach DN IRD to port1 or
2. install external power pack as you mentioned above."
With the superdish you can have two sats usually 110 and 119. People who also want to add 61.5 or 148, require a 18" dish as well. These people have found a solution in using Dp44 to get all three sats.
Cheapest solution remains the use of a cheap external power.

Also read the following thread from about 16th August onwards.
https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/256331.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 221
Registered: Jul-06
Nalin, Before you say something, you need to understand what you are reading, and LOOK AT THE PICTURE CLOSELY. CHECK the FTA is connected on the DP-34 (red picture). It is NOT connected to the PORT 1234. It is connected to the "TRUNKABLE OUTPUT", (FOR ADDITIONAL SWITCH PURPOSES). It is a loop through output, meaning, It does not require power BECAUSE IT IS NOT GOING THROUGH THE SWITCH. And since it is not going through a switch, a Diseqc switch is connected.I have tested this not once, but many times. I REPEAT, LOOP-THROUGH DOES NOT NEED POWER.
Before you conclude and say "and if it is its dumb luck", I CHALLENGE YOU TO FOLLOW THE EXACT SET-UP, and come back to this forum, then give your opinion based in your testing result. LIKE I SAID, I HAD DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES, AND NOT ONCE THAT THE FTA HAD A PROBLEM.
The illustration above (in RED) is my own testing- dish and switch setting, not copied from anyone.
This is not an argument, but a clarification, and recommendation is based on my testing results.
I did have DN sub (for quite sometime) and FTA alike. I had to make ways to make them work at the same time, without sacrificing signal loss and limiting #'s of receivers, while both connected to the same TV monitor and monitors. That includes the use of diseqc, DPP-44,DP-34, Subbed IRD's, FTA and etc.
Again, please review the illustration above, seems, you are overlooking someting. If you are not convinced, test it yourself, then tell me that I'M A DIK!
 

Silver Member
Username: Nydas

Post Number: 540
Registered: Jun-06
TDG: Sahr is entiltled to full information about a device Dp34, YOU had recommended. That information has been provided. In the previous thread Justice had tried to help, but LK and you thought it fit to cut that thread off.
Both of you should understand that this is information age and everybody can get the information they want to get.
Then your buddy had the audacity to call me a kid. Put yourself in 1974-1976, and get a computer worth $5200 in a remote part of North America. Then find it not working and with the help of diagrams and manuals actually fix it on the kitchen table (no emails then and phone calls were $1 per minute). That is taking a risk of $20000 in today's dollars. And that is exactly what I did with a Xitan. Look up an old old Byte magazine and you will find out what level of risks us hobbyists were taking. You people take risks of $200 and call yourselves big and knowledgable. and usually that risk is taken with other people's equipment.
Go and write a whole BIOS for IBM compatible PCs. See for yourself the number of blank screens and blocked port because of the mistakes you make writing it and that, my dear freind is what this hobbyist did, and had a 100% working BIOS. I understand 200 times what you know and understand.

QED
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 226
Registered: Jul-06
IMPRESSIVE!
Smartly stupid out of topic.
My words were CLEAR & SIMPLE."LOOK AT THE PICTURE CLOSELY. CHECK HOW the FTA is connected (red picture)", Test it yourself before you say "its dumb luck".
Facts are based on mulitple testing results. BUT HERE we go again, someone pops out of the bloom and claims " understand 200 times what you know and understand". Making comments without trying it himself.
I remember when PRFRMNJ, made some posts and recommends his post, because IT IS TRUELY BASED ON HIS TESTING RESULTS, THAT THEY ACTUALLY WORKS, but then you suddenly came out of the picture, and say, "PEOPLE: IF YOUR RECEIVER IS WORKING AND GIVING YOU MOST OF THE CHANNELS NOW, DON'T ATTEMPT TO CHANGE ANYTHING. JUST ENJOY YOUR TV."https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/268455.html. I will not go into details, Stupid as it is, yet, you keeep pushing the issue.
My recommendation as illustrated (in red), was based on multiple testing and results. And yes, not once that it failed.
Do me a favor try it yourself, before you say "its dumb luck"!

OTHERWISE, STFU...

OH, ONE MORE THING...GROW-UP! WILL YOU?
 

Silver Member
Username: Totaldikguy

Post Number: 227
Registered: Jul-06
And if you think that it will not work, check this out. Why would some guys recommend it to their friends if is otherwise?
Post #331, Link:

Check how the FTA (viewsat) is connected CLOSELY. That was my illustration (that was copied and pasted), and yes, it was also based on my actual tesing result. Maybe another luck. Hahaha...
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