Mrs. Claus got me (or allowed me to get) a Yamaha RX-V2400 AVR (to replace my RXV692) and while I was there I grabbed their last set of Klipsch Quintet IIs (at less than half price) without ever hearing them -because I was struggling with a small (10x15') space and trying to wall mount large bookshelf surrounds anyway.
Now I am home and realize the possibilities are endless. I have 2 Klipsch KLF20s (big towers), matched Mission 732s (2) and 73C (center), 4 Klipsch Quints and matched center, my old Energy EPS100 sub, an extra AVR, a new AVR with 3 zones, and soon an extra 27" TV when the Wega LCD 50" arrives.
Quints for movies, KLF20s for tunes, Missions for Zone 2? Above but KLFs for front L/R movies too and use the remaining 2 Quints for rear-backs or front pressences? Or something else mixing in the Missions?
How much power (can) goes out to the pressence channels anyway?
Will the 2400 YPAO correct enough to use my 100db KLFs with the 90db Quints or even the 88db Missions?
Will the setup remember two configs -one with A and one with B? The Quints will need the sub up at 200Hz but the KLFs barely need a sub thus I would go about the 80-90Hz I have set now. BTW, if the AVR has bass management (which the 2400 has) -does my subs' crossover setting matter anymore?
What should I do: Music/Movies = 50/50?
Also -how do I connect my Sony 200 CD Jukebox with this RX-V2400: it has L/R analog out, optical out, and a Video out (for on-screen GUI)?
Owners manual says some stuff that confuses me:
If optical and coaxial (digital) jacks are connected, priority is given to coaxial. I thought optical was better than coax? What gives?
It says I can bi-wire my mains by connecting both A and B to them and sellecting both A/B -does it mater if A or B goes to highs or lows -or does my speakers crossover take care of it and it just allows more conductor to be connected?
It says "the Canada Model cannot output to two seperate speaker systems simultaniously" -does this include bi-wiring (above)? And why? Should I bi-wire (or A or B my Quints and KLFs)?
Do I need a DVD player with 3/2 pulldown if my TV does it? What is the cheapest Yamaha DVD player I should get to take advantage of my system (C740 or C940 or S2300MK2)? My current S700 is not progressive.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
Anonymous
Posted on
Coaxial is better. Get a 75 ohm cable from Canare or Belden. Optical is inferior.
Suggest you consider the Phillips 963SA. It has progressive scan, uses a 13 but video processing and incorporates faroudja DCDi chip for video.
Thanks "Anonymous" -I would prefer to limit mixing brands as much as possible, I will go coax.
I have now tried the Quints (with my old 692) and have decided Quints for movies, KLFs for tunes.
Sony 200 Mega-CD connection -what should I do; as most AVRs do not provide for video input from (typically) audio (only) devices such as a CD player. I used to connect it's video to an unused video-in on the 692, and just select that video source before selecting CD -my wife could never figure this out and I am hoping there is a way around it on the RX-V2400 so to make life simpler for her.
How much power goes out to the 2400's presence channels when being used (assigned) as Zone 2 L/R speakers?
Still wondering about bi-wiring and what that would get me -but I guess now that I am using the Quints as L/R for movies and KLFs as L/R for music that it does not matter anymore.
I am also wondering why my "Canada Model" would be different to the US model -you would think the cold would help eh?! ;)
Do I need my DVD player to say DCDi by Faroudja and have 3:2 Pull-Down or will a non-Faroudja progressive player from Yamaha be enough to keep a 50" Wega HDTV (with built in 3:2 Pull-Down) happy?
Dave
Stevecml
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Hi,
This is Anonymous. I have the Yamaha RXV1400 - it does not state how much power goes out to the presence speakers as well.
I don't u/s your connection of Sony 200 Mega CD into the 692? Are you connecting the audio to the 2400 and the video to the 692? I connect my audio/video cable TV connections to "CBL/Sat" input and use the video "tape out" to my projector. This works fine for me.
If you are using only 1 set of speakers, the manual states that you should connect either A or B to your KLHs. Don't connect both ;-). If U wish to bi-wire, then you need 2 sets of cables (one with banana plugs) and the other with spades or bare wire to plug to the A or B terminals. Both wires need to be connected to only A or B. Mine is a Singapore model - dunno how your Canadian model looks. If you can't bi-wire, then get a jumper (bare wire to connect the + lows to the + highs) and do the same for the -lows and - highs. I tried using jumpers with my Wilson Benesch but found the sound was inferior so went back to bi-wire.
Since you are using a HDTV, I still recommend a DVD player with the progessive scan and faroudja chip. It works well for me into my Infocus X1 projector. Excellent picture quality.
-Anon, thanks, and when I said the connections to the 692, that was how I have connected to it now. I haven't taken the 2400 out of the box yet (only read it's manual and observed the back panel). Like modern Yamaha's, it will play the A/V input selected, and if an audio only input (i.e., CD) is selected, the previously selected A + V input's video will continue to be displayed. My wife can't seem to wrap her head around that. The 692 simply did not have enough A + V inputs for my equipment and allow for me to have both A + V on the same 'input'.
I will be replacing the 692 with the 2400 once the reno-dust settles. The 692 will then go to Zone 2.
Though it seems the 2400 does not have a video-in for a CD player, it does have other ins with A + V, but they say you can rename/assign inputs and was hoping someone might tell me how to create an input that is labeled "CD" that allows A + V in so my wife will see the CD players display, hear the audio, all from the input that is labelled "CD".
Biwire: my Manual says, "biwired connection: The unit allows you to make bi-wired connections to one speaker system. Use two pairs of speaker cables for each speaker (one pair for woofer and one pair for the tweater/midrange). To use bi-wired connections, press SPEAKERS A and SPEAKERS B on the front panel so that both SP A and SP B light up on the front panel display".
It then has a picture of the 2400's A terminals connected to one set of speaker posts, and the B terminals to the other.
It does not say to connect B to woofer, and A to tweat/mid so I assume it does not matter (i.e., relies on speakes internal crossover to filter the frequencies). I am wondering if it is even worth it -as I use some heavy gauge pure copper cables to them anyway.
My speakers come from the factory with huge gold plates jumping top and bottom posts -they are obviously removable. I have, to this day, left them there and used only one set of posts.
A friend has since bought Klipsch references and said that "Bi-Wiring" is the way to go. It does seem logical, but will I actually hear the difference?
Later...
Dave
Stevecml
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Hi Dave,
On my 1400 manual, U can change the name of the component using the "Input Rename" feature. Check the section "Advanced Features" in the manual.
My 1400 does not have the instructions for bi-wiring as you stated but it states "The Canada model cannot output to 2 separate speaker systems simultaneously."