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Samsung DLP Light Ballast

 

New member
Username: Fmolodecki

Billings, MT USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: Apr-09
After reading all the posts on Samsung DLP's... well I guess misery loves company so here goes. I got a new lamp for my HLR4667W and it does not light up. From the posts, I gather the ballast is possibly the next culprit. Where can I find instructions on replacing or testing the ballast?
Thanks
 

New member
Username: Atracker

Post Number: 6
Registered: Mar-09
Hi Frank,

Here is how to test the Ballast Board, Color Wheel and Fans. If you need further assistance go to my post listed above.

Pull the lamp housing
Tie the door switch up to the closed position
Turn on the TV
All Fans should run, Color wheel should spin listen or shine a flashlight in the lamp side window to verify
Watch at the left back side of the Ballast board for the starter to flash it will cycle flash three times
Pull power cord from back of TV to shut off or it will continue to try the three attempt cycle

This will verify the Color Wheel and Ballast board are getting power and most likely your problem is a bad lamp but you should also do a voltage test on the two prong plug on the Ballast board to see if there is 380 volts dc from the power board.
 

New member
Username: Fmolodecki

Billings, MT USA

Post Number: 2
Registered: Apr-09
Thanks atracker. NO DC voltage a interface, colorwheel spins and I already put in a new bulb, so I guess it's the light ballast? The code on the bottom is BP61-00728A. There is a code on one of the PC board components. Brand is Osram code is PT VIP 2AC/380 O1. Which do I use and anything special that I need to do during or after installation?
Thanks
Frank
 

Bronze Member
Username: Atracker

Post Number: 11
Registered: Mar-09
Hi Frank,

Did you try the above test? Did you buy a generic or the right lamp for your set? The wattage does make a difference for startup. Can you provide me with your full model number so I can provide you with the right part numbers for your lamp and ballast board. If you will let's take this over to my topic so I can keep track. I have also added a test for the DMD board there.

https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/home-video/555766.html

Thanks,
Andrew
 

New member
Username: Hankt

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-09
ATracker,
Nice to have someone to help like you and others on the forum. I have a HLN467WX for 4 yrs. Now all of sudden no more pic. When turned on, only sound comes up for 2 minutes, dies for 5 seconds, then back on with sound for another 2 minutes. Cycled this 3 times then turns itself off and all 3 LED lights flashing on.

Bought a new lamp and installed without help. Followed your protocol you suggested April 10, 2009 as following:

Pull the lamp housing
Tie the door switch up to the closed position
Turn on the TV
All Fans should run, Color wheel should spin listen or shine a flashlight in the lamp side window to verify
Watch at the left back side of the Ballast board for the starter to flash it will cycle flash three times
Pull power cord from back of TV to shut off or it will continue to try the three attempt cycle

When turned on, 2 fans are on, but color wheel does not move at all. No churning noise. Ballast has click sound on turned on, but no flash seen.

I am trying to decide buying either a ballast OR color wheel to try at this time. Both expensive, so want to ask your opinion on which is more likely the culpit. Please help!

Hank
 

New member
Username: Cmorson

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
Hi,
I am way behind the time on the problems you guys were having with the samsungs. I have a HLR6167W. We replaced the lamp after a year and about a year later, it went out again. We ordered a new lamp and this time it didn't fix it. I was wondering if you could tell me 2 things. One, the power from the power board to the ballast board is only at 331 volts. Second, should you be able to check continuity on the replacement lamps? We tried and it showed none on the new lamp. COuld it be we simply recieved a bad Lamp? I really, truly appreciate any help on this.
 

New member
Username: Jahmon61

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
I have a samsung hlr4667wx dlp that will not turn on. removed lamp, taped switch, pluged in, here series of clicks, color wheel is spinning, have 325 vdc at 2 pin plug from power supply bd but no volt at plug that connects to lamp. does anyone have a service manual? Thanks
 

Bronze Member
Username: Lucky101

HydeabadUnited States

Post Number: 27
Registered: Sep-09
Is the voice coming from your tv. If that is the reason try changing the lamp only. Hope it would work.
 

New member
Username: Ajpatil

Post Number: 1
Registered: Feb-10
Guys,

I have a Samsung DLP HLR5678W from Oct. 2005. A couple of times in last 3-4 months, the TV has shut off on its own, the lights have blinked once and the TV came on on it's own. This week it did the same and shut off on its own. Now the TV just won't turn on. None of the indicators on the front (standby, power, lamp) light up or blink. There is no noise inside either. What could be wrong? The picture was nice and bright till the last day. I have moved this TV to India for last 3 years and can't get direct Samsung help here.

I will appreciate any pointers w.r.t. troubleshooting the TV.

Thanks - Anil
 

New member
Username: Jahmon61

Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-10
Have you checked youtube. I found several videos on samsung dlp problems. I purchased a service manual that covers HLR4667WAX,HLR5067WAX,HLR5667WAX,HLR6167WAX in pdf form I would me willing to email you. I would check the power supply bd (tv unplugged) mine had a fuse on it also check for domed or leaking electrolytic caps
 

New member
Username: Rxnet

Post Number: 6
Registered: Nov-06
this works this works this works...after 3 years of fighting with my samsung dlp shutting off this solution worked , cost me nothing , and took 2 minutes to do......I had the same problem. Samsung DLP, extended warranty just ran out, started shutting off all the time. After a little internet research I figured out the common problem was the blue switch behind the cover over the projection screen. Samsung has a web page showing this switch and suggesting that it is not being positioned correctly when the cover is replaced.

http://ars.samsung.com/customer/usa/jsp/faqs/faqs_view.jsp?isARS=Y&SITE_ID=1&AT_ ID=83523&ARS_ID=6223298

That doesn't make sense because most people have this problem without ever opening the cover.

I took the cover off, unplugged the connector to the switch , and installed a short piece of copper wire with one end in each of the two sockets of the plug. This closed the circuit like the switch is supposed to do. The TV works great now.

Apparently the switch is defective and breaks the circuit now and then. This happens mostly after the TV gets a little older. It is a safety device to protect against someone getting burned or shocked when the cover is off so just be careful and keep the cover in place.
 

New member
Username: Zenman

Stockton, CA USA

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-10
I have a HLT50755SX/XAA i read that when the three light are flashing replace the bulb I did with factory bulb and housing now the tv will work for 2-3 min. the I lose picture , and i get the three flashing lights again. I made sure that the fan was cleaned... Please help...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Crowell

Post Number: 12
Registered: Feb-10
Hey Zenman.
Have you reset the lamp timer on your tv?
On a vast mayoralty of the Samsung DLPs you need to manually reset it, very few do it automatically when you install a new lamp.
Here is a post on how to do it:
http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1050
see if this help you out.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 1155
Registered: Oct-07
I used to be a technician but NOT a pro at TV.......

Some recommend replacing the pigtail lead from the power board (ballast?) to the lamp. Those connections get real hot, at least at the lamp end, and will corrode over time. I've seen these leads listed as spare parts on the Discount Merchant site....where I bought my OEM lamp for my Sony SXRD.
These lamps should be open when cold / off. They are vapor lamps aren't they? Don't they get a big voltage 'kick' to start then run at a lower voltage?

Above poster is dead on.....CHECK YOUR DOOR SWITCH. I'd bet money that is the problem with Walter's set.....
 

New member
Username: Softail71

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jan-11
Hi everyone, I'm hoping someone can help.
I have a 5 yr old Samsung 50" inch DLP television model HL-R5064W. It recently out of the blue just started displaying a series of 7-8 solid black vertical lines across the entire tv. They are about 3 inches wide and are symetrically spaced apart. The picture looks fine in between the lines but nothing I can do takes the lines away. I have tried everything. I tried resetting it through the menu; no luck, I tried resetting it with the remote key sequence; no luck, tried to see if it was stuck in demo or shop mode but its not. I just don't get it. One day it works perfectly fine and the next day I turn it on and the lines are there and won't go away. Like I said they are solid so nagivating through the menu is tough. I replaced the lamp approx 8 months ago and the colour wheel two weeks after that and the tv had been working fine for the last 6-8 months. I called Samsung support and they were of no help at all as there is nothing in their literature that would resolve the issue. I have unplugged every peripheral from the tv and even disconnected my satellite. The lines are still there and it is obviously something wrong with the tv. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've added a pic to show you what it looks like.Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2042
Registered: Oct-07
to Atracker::
do you ever recommend changing the pigtail lead TO the lamp?
I've seen these get funky from the heat. The wires inside the crimp on connectors will oxidize.
In years past I worked on semiconductor equipment with MercuryVapor lamps and we changed the pigtail with EVERY lamp change.
 

New member
Username: Ryanblankenship

Bel Air, Maryland United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-11
I'm having a similar problem with my DLP. I have a samsung HLT6187S (6187sxxaa). The picture just went out one day, no cutting off or lamp warnings. I assumed it was the lamp, but after being unplugged for about a month, I plugged it back in and it worked, for a day. Now it's back off. I hear sound only, no picture. The sound never cuts off or goes away until I power down the TV.

Does this sound like a ballast? There's no noises that are unusual that I can hear.
 

New member
Username: Smccosky

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-12
I had a problem where my Samsung HL-R5667W would no longer turn on. When I would try to turn it on the green "Timer" light would flash once, then the green "Lamp" light would flash several times, then it would click off and the red "Standby/Temp" light would go on. Since it was several years old I decided to buy a new lamp and that fixed the problem ... for about a month. However, then it stopped working and acted the way it did before. I decided to change back to the original lamp to see if that might somehow work and, lo and behold, it did. However, that was short lived and it stopped working again after about a month. After that, I decided the lamp can't be the problem. While researching what the next most likely problem might be I came across the post titled "Rxnet posted on Monday, April 05, 2010 - 05:26 GMT" where it was noted that the "the common problem was the blue switch behind the cover over the projection screen." and the solution was to "install a short piece of copper wire with one end in each of the two sockets of the plug. This closed the circuit like the switch is supposed to do. The TV works great now." I decided to try spraying the blue switch with contact cleaner, exercised the switch several times to make sure it got worked into it, and then made sure the switch was held down when I turned it on. That seems to have worked and was a bit easier than by-passing the switch altogether.
 

New member
Username: Walkerdarylanngmailcom

Post Number: 1
Registered: Dec-12
I have a 50 inch samsung DLP tv. Mod. HL S5065WX/XAA
SER.B1C93CML700549N VERSION PB01
I replaced bulb and tv worked for about 2 months. Bulb was off brand.
Tv then would quit and you could turn it back on after awhile. Finally would not come on at all.
I pulled back off and held switch up, turned tv on and you could see 2
fans spinning, and a green light that stayed on. You could hear tv cycle
twice. Never found color wheel. Do you think new bulb is bad or is the
ballast out? Do you have to have a tech change the ballast or can I do it?
Tv allways made a fairly large hum.
Thanks for any assistance, Daryl
 

New member
Username: Papa_suf

Post Number: 1
Registered: May-13
I have a Samsung HLR6167W with no picture. I replaced color wheel but it didn't help.

I did some diagnostics that were suggested in previous posts and see that all fans are working and the color wheel is spinning.

I probably jumped the gun and should have checked the lamp ballast first. When I did, I got about 380 volts at pin connector from power supply but absolutely zero volts to the lamp terminals. Seems to point to a bad ballast but need someone to confirm this before I spend any more money. Any help would be appreciated.
 

New member
Username: Riharley

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-13
Hl56A650C1f Samsung.
The TV turns on normally and stay on for about 10 seconds. The picture goes out, sound stays on and then clicking sound cycling on and off but it does the same thing each time. The ballast board makes a buzzing sound and spark each time at the end of the cycle after TV picture has turned off.
I checked the Power board capacitors and were not swollen, but replaced them anyway. Same problem.
Ballast board large capacitor looks good not swollen or leaking. I have not checked voltage on leads with meter. Should I ?
I have opened back and held the blue switch inside the ventilation door in the up and down position checking each way, but the cycling on and off still happens.
Do I get Ballast and bulb?
 

New member
Username: Horseman

Ringgold, Ga United States

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-14
On my Samsung model HLP4663w my volt meter says i'm getting zero volts out of the ballast board. Is it safe to say that the ballast board is the culprit or could it be something else?
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