This Post shows you how and the methods here should work for all Receivers...
DISCONNECT your Receiver from the wall!
Open your Receiver and look for a fuse in the power supply area. Assure that it is 100% good. Remove it and test the fuse with a ohm meter because that fuse may have a tiny hairline crack not visible to the eye or may be 'blown' under the metal end caps where you can't see it! Never assume fuses are good by just looking at them. This is especially true for Receivers that are 100% dead. While we are on the topic, NEVER replace *any* fuse with one that has a higher amp rating... never.
While you still have the ohm meter handy, test the main power switch too while still in the OHM setting.
Check EVERY cable connector and assure it is FULLY SEATED in it's socket! Inspect every wire going into the connector body. Has one of the many pins been unseated or pushed away from the connector body? Are any of the wires loose?
CAUTION... some very flat 'ribbon' cables push directly into a socket: DO NOT unplug that ribbon cable, but DO check to see that it is fully seated into the socket! If it is at a slight angle, gently push the ribbon into place in within the socket so all connections are made... but DON'T unplug it to do so.
Inspect the power cord junctions. Assure all the cord wires are FULLY soldered. You should see complete solder-flow on the wires, pins and lugs. The many fine wires within the power cord insulation requires quite a bit of heat to get a proper solder connection! The same is true of transformer wires and other large parts. The wire size and mass of larger component bodies tend to pull the needed heat away from the solder junction and cause a "cold" solder joint.
Also without proper heat the solder FLUX may not fully dissipate and can actually create a poor junction due to a lack of proper solder heat. Unspent FLUX can act as a RESISTOR between the board circuit trace and the component wire! You are looking for any signs of a brown powder-like coating on solder junctions. Look for 'floating' component pins or wires within a solder hole or one that is poorly soldered. These can be the source of your intermittent nightmare.
Keep in mind that before the components went into your Receiver the wire leads were plated... and sometimes NOT with the best stuff. While sitting on a shelf the leads can tarnish and actually resist a good solder flow!
INSPECT ALL solder joints with a magnifying glass. Look for pins thru the board with no solder on the 'pad'. Look carefully for any solder connections that appear to have a 'crater' of solder around the pin ~ where the solder not fully 'fused' to that pin, but there is solder all around it!
Look for any signs of a cracked printed circuit traces too... some circuit traces are extremely fine. If you discover a cracked trace, very carefully scratch away the clear or color non-conductive coating ~ just left and right of the broken trace. Clean about 1/16 inch the copper trace until it's shiny and re-solder the broken trace. A Exacto blade point works great for this task. A tiny jumper wire can also be used, but I really don't recommend it if there is any possibility of shorts or damage to other traces in the area you are attempting to repair.
Keep in mind, broken printed circuit broken traces are often smaller than a human hair! Look carefully.
Don't forget to check the components on the back of the front panel too.
Assure ALL parts are firmly soldered to the board. Do that by GENTLY pulling each component lead with needle-nose pliers or something similar (resistors, capacitors, etc). Do not damage the component while gently tugging. Never forget these ARE delicate components! You may want to use 2 short lengths of soda straws over the jaws of your needle-nose to help protect the components. REMEMBER, the key word here is GENTLY.
ALL solder junction should look bright and shiny!
Now carefully inspect every part inside the case. Assure that NO part is burnt or showing any sign of overheating! This includes IC's.
Do not tug on IC's, but DO inspect every soldered IC pin.
Speaking of parts, if you discover a burnt IC, try your very best to replace it with the same part number. Substitute parts (NTE, ECG etc) may introduce new problems because they although they may be similar, subtle internal differences may introduce a whole new set of problems!
BE 100% CONFIDENT YOU CAN SAFELY COMPLETE ALL STEPS OR WHILE REPLACING ANY DEFECTIVE PART ~ ESPECIALLY IC's!
IF YOU ARE NOT, SEND YOUR RECEIVER BACK TO THE FACTORY.
*** WARNING!*** YOU WILL HAVE LETHAL CONNECTIONS EXPOSED AND IF YOU ARE CARELESS FOR EVEN ONE SECOND IT CAN COST YOU YOUR LIFE!
While doing these 'power-on' tests, keep your free hand well away from the Receiver! In fact, keep that hand behind you or in your pocket.
Reconnect your Receiver. With the power switch ON, and the cover still off, sharply 'tap' all components with the eraser-end of a common pencil or some other non-conductor. Watch your Receiver Display for any signs of life or flickering. You are looking for any component or area that brings your receiver back to life ~ even for a instant. Pay special attention to the IC's because it's easy to miss a pin or two during the soldering process!
If you discover a bad or cold solder joint, POWER-DOWN and DISCONNECT YOUR RECEIVER! Carefully re-solder the component. If you don't find that bad solder-joint, carefully re-solder all of the connections in the 'sensitive' area anyway. DO NOT attempt to re-solder any IC pins! The chances of creating a unwanted solder-bridge or short are too great... it's just not worth it. Without question the factory will discover the damage you've caused at it will cost you dearly OR they may even deem you Receiver as scrap.
After doing all this, if your Receiver is still dead, arrange a RMA and shipment back to the manufacture.
OR maybe it's time to UPGRADE to that new Receiver you've always wanted? After shipping, repair costs and part costs, you will end up with a used patched-up receiver ~ so why not consider a new one instead?
With care and luck, you may be watching TV tonight!
thanks it's not even mines it's my cousins box i want to put the new bin and this what get.I should try it frist now i do'nt if the box was mess up already.
nick adan : The genuine Pansat 2700A has to have B75 first and then the latest BIN. [link removed] http://www.future-fta.info and Http://www.ftatalk is also a good resource for this item. **----**----**----**----**----**----**----**----**---- It there is light there is hope. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET GOING. Unlike Viewsats, Pansat is much more resilient animals and can stand abuse and recover. **----**----**----**----**----**----**----**----**---- Most people forget that Pansat 2500 even after conversion to 2700 uses straight RS232 cable, and that 2700a requires a null modem cable. Reduce your baud rate for better load. **----**----**----**----**----**----**----**----**---- The recent BINs for 2700A and conversions have memory usage problems. Therefore, setup completely afresh after loading the BIN, i.e. do default setting, User setup with date/time, antenna setup and Power scan in that sequence.
