Archive through October 20, 2005
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New member Username: DeanbrewPost Number: 6 Registered: Mar-05 | Brian, is the Mack warranty a good one? As I understand it, you have to buy the 3-year EW to get the bulb-replacement warranty, correct? In other words, you can't just buy the bulb-replacement warranty, right? Anything you can tell us to convince us that a Mack warranty is a good idea? |
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Bronze Member Username: SuzukimanYorkville, IL Us Post Number: 19 Registered: Sep-05 | Update on the repairs. The tech was not able to fix the unit with the Service Remote (Remocon unit). So he ordered the JVC DVI module to fix the problem. Not happy right now..So with the service Remote we were able to get the HDMI to work but then it would turn off after a second or two, so the module is needed. We will wait for the light engine install after the DVI module part is in, and do it all at once. The service remote is a Remocon unit. This is what he did to reset the HDMI. First set the Remote code to 03-C6, then...to reset HDMI, hit the number(3). At that time the HDMI would work but would not stay working. This is all I know for now. I have a picture of the new Ballast part being upgraded. The tech said, what they have upgraded is the Boot, and the clear plastic strip that was added for protection on the board.  |
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Bronze Member Username: UhphikapPost Number: 21 Registered: Jun-05 | Dean, That is correct...you must purchase both the regular TV Warranty AND the Bulb Replacement if you want the bulb replacement guarantee, because it is not available on its own, although you can purchase the EW without the Bulb Replacement. MACK is a very good warranty company. They have have been around for a LONG time, and we have customers here that have used them for YEARS for their warranties on their cameras and video equipment and I've never had a complaint about MACK. I'm not here to try and sell a MACK Warranty to you...that's not my intention at all. I'm here to offer you a great deal on one if you have decided you would like one for your unit. If you would like to ask more questions, feel free to call me at the number above and I will do my best to help you out, as this forum is not the right place to do that. I will tell you, however, that I purchased the combo warranty when I bought my unit 2 months ago because I believe it's a great value deal. |
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Bronze Member Username: UhphikapPost Number: 22 Registered: Jun-05 | As a side note, with MACK, you have 30 days from your date of purchase to get and activate the Warranty with them, and you can buy your warranty anywhere, regardless of where you buy the TV. Just an FYI. |
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Bronze Member Username: ThedvdguyPost Number: 45 Registered: Jan-05 | Thanks for the update Frank. The repair place I am using has ordered the service remote, but it hasn't arrived yet so I am still waiting. How long did the HDMI port work for before it stopped working again? I don't want this guy to do a quick fix and immediately take off only to have my HDMI port still broken. |
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New member Username: BruceorlandoOrlando - Mickey Mouse..., Florida-By-God US of A Post Number: 3 Registered: Oct-05 | Mr. Lynch, Just purchased a JVC HD56G786. Could you please forward your service manual to brucew@emailcentral.org? Thank you very much for all you've done for us JVC owners! BruceOrlando |
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New member Username: JoelspcPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-05 | Mr. Lynch, Bandwagon?, mee too! Just bought the 52G886,if you have a service manual would very much appreciative if you could e-mail it to me, thanks. -Joel JoelsPC@Hotmail.Com |
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New member Username: Jnice72Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-05 | So, the service guys just left. It was a pretty simple transaction - 2 guys in a white box van showed up, I showed them my yellow-tinted screen, then they called JVC tech service. Presumably this is a super-secret number that only authorized service "professionals" know. Anyway, the tech describes the problem to the JVC guy, and without letting the tech finish the description, he says, "this is a light engine problem." Light engines for the 52Z575 are currently out of stock, and the ETA from the JVC guy was 2 weeks. Once the light engine comes into the local service guy, he said that this is about a 4 hour repair because you have to take everything out of the TV to get to it. He said turnaround should be rapid once the engine arrives, though, because JVC charges the service guys $2000 for the light engine, including a "dug" cost of $650 that is returned to the service guy by JVC upon receipt of the bad light engine. Presumably they refurbish the light engines to send back out as replacements. In the meantime, I will be watching my yellow-tinted picture. The ice in the Lightning game last night looked like it was made of urine. Mr. Lynch - Would you please also send me a copy of the service manual? I am registered under my hotmail account, but it will definitely come through if you send it to siddle_johnATyahooDOTcom. Thanks in advance. |
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Cam Ram Unregistered guest | I just got the Dish Network HD hooked up today to my 61G886 and I am disappointed in the 4 or 5 channels Dish Network offers. I didn't get HD to watch "American Choppers", I got it to watch football. So how can I get local channels (ABC, CBS, NBC etc..)in HD? Does the off air antenna work well enough to pick up it up? If so, how do I hook it up and can I get it at a Radio Shack or something of that type? Any help would be appreciated. |
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Silver Member Username: Hd_fanaticBoise, ID Post Number: 156 Registered: May-05 | Picking them off the air with an antenna is your best bet. Providing that you get good reception where you are. I bought a 35 dollar antenna that mounts up in the attic and it works great. BTW, Consumer Reports just did a review on cable and satellite services and Direct TV had way more HD programming. |
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Bronze Member Username: UhphikapPost Number: 23 Registered: Jun-05 | I got an off-air antenna at Lowe's for about $38 and it works like a champ for the over-the-air channels. Hooking it up depends on your situation...I put mine on a 25ft mast that we drove 3 feet into the ground and erected at the back corner of my house, ran the coaxial cable directly from the antenna's hookup through the gutters, and into the Dish Network splitter(diplexer) and then used another diplexer inside to split the signal again. When the Dish Network guy came out to setup the HD 811 receiver box, he helped me get it all going the right way. |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-05 | Mr. Lynch... Please send a manual to rockymtnbri@earthlink.net. |
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Bronze Member Username: SuzukimanYorkville, IL Us Post Number: 20 Registered: Sep-05 | You can get the HD Voom channel pack. It's about ten or more extra channels for only 4.99 extra if you have the Dish Network HD pack already. It has a channel called Rave...Soundstage airs almost 24 hrs a day... concerts in HD Very nice. Just seen Dream Theater last week, incredible. About the Refurbished Light engines...your right. I opened the box to take a peek at my new engine, and the mounting screw holes show signs or wear. Basically you can see it has been in and out of a set before...hmmm. I did look closely at it though...it seems they have upgraded the first part where light first enters the engine with a new part. That's all I can really see is the difference. |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 2 Registered: Sep-05 | Mr Lynch,could you give me a copy of the manual for my 52z575 Thanks a lot. at robergee@videotron.ca |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriPost Number: 2 Registered: Oct-05 | More information on the specific problem I'm seeing. I have a Panasonic DVD-S77 player hooked up to my 52Z585 via HDMI, and it can upconvert to 720p/1080i. I'm watching Ghost in the Shell 2nd Gig, second program on the DVD. Any colors that are supposed to "seamlessly" blend together are not - they look like a high-color picture on a PC viewed at 256 colors. Is this a light engine issue, an HDMI port issue, or both? I bought my set in April of 2005, but I don't know when it was manufactured. I also see color muddying on SD stuff, particularly in dark areas. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Last night I turned on my TV and had a very strange image on the screen. The screen was essentially split down the middle. On the right was a blue image that was the signal from my cable box. On the left was a mirror image of the right (i.e. in reverse...actual mirror image) in red. Of course I freaked out. Anyway, I turned off the set, unplugged it and left it for a few seconds. I plugged it back in and powered it up and all was well. While I'm somewhat relieved, I am suspicious. What was this!? Is this the beginning of a catastrophic failure? |
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Bronze Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 78 Registered: Aug-05 | Brian, There should be a sticker on the back of the set with the mfg date and serial number. On the HDMI port, light engine... maybe try component inputs, see if the problem is still there? Another thing to try , remove power totally to all connected devices (hard reset), unplug, re-plug cables, etc. Try a cold boot. |
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Bronze Member Username: ThedvdguyPost Number: 46 Registered: Jan-05 | Brian, To figure out the build date, take the first 2 digits of the serial number (as a single two-digit number) and subtract 5, that is the Month and take the 3rd digit and subtract 5 and that is the year. So if the first three digits are 149 then your build date would be "14" - 5 = 9 "9" - 5 = 4 (or September 2004). |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Oct-05 | Thanks for the responses. I actually have my Hi-Def DirecTV box connected via component and I don't see the problem there. I may have to wait until something comes on DirecTV that I have a DVD of and compare. I have a five-year warranty plan thru Philips (?) that I may use to have a tech come out and look at the set if the tweaks Mr. Lynch supplies via the manual don't yield results. |
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Bronze Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 81 Registered: Aug-05 | Brian, Have you tried another DVD player? Could it be the disc itself is bad? (maybe your dvd player is having a problem reading that section of the disc.. processes the info ok via component, and the HDMI part of the player is having problems? |
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Cam Ram Unregistered guest | Thanks for the antenna info HD Fanatic and Brian. I will be purchasing an antenna today, football season is almost 1/2 over. |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Oct-05 | WeAreNotAlone69... I may have to break down and do the component vs. HDMI comparison. I'd be upset if that's the issue - I bought the player specifically for the HDMI output. Of course I'm being very particular in the sense that it's only this disc that I'm having an issue with. If I could post a picture I'd show you why it bugs me so much. |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Oct-05 | Here's another thing - I didn't see these problems when I used my HD DirecTV box hooked up via HDMI (same cable). Also, I did have to replace the lamp a little while ago. Don't know if that has any bearing on this. |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 6 Registered: Oct-05 | Brett... It's January 2005, and I bought it in April. |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 3 Registered: Sep-05 | I need the service manual for my 52z575, someone pleease! robergee@videotron.ca |
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New member Username: ShuntersPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-05 | I am looking for a JVC HD-52G886 service manual. Would anyone have a copy? if you do could you email me a copy to hun@terminal.net Thanks! |
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Bronze Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 82 Registered: Aug-05 | Brian, Replacing the lamp shouldn't make any differance. Me thinks the HDMI on the dvd player (hopefully) is where the problem is. I haven't keep up on all the specs /issues pertaining to HDMI problems but I really hope the Hollywood types that have focused on making sure the signal can't be "copied" go to an early grave. I think alot of issues people are having is because they are more focused on making sure their el-crap-ola movies can't be copied than making sure all the devices talk properly to each other. Could be wrong on that but I know that the Hollywood types have forced alot of extra bs into the data stream to protect thei own interests. I'd rather have a plain data stream with content only, no extra copy protection stuff added. I really don't care to copy a movie anyway, I just want components to "work". Got a PC video card with DVI output... If I'm reading previous posts correctly... without the HDMI "handshake", It using some type of extra signal it won't work. (be backwards compatible) Sometimes I think they change up stuff just so you'll have to buy all new stuff. Nice to be on the "Cutting edge", for the gee-wiz factor, but it gets old after about twenty or thirty years being in effect an upaid, retail paying beta tester of their equipment (whatever it may be). |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 8 Registered: Oct-05 | Update: swapped HDMI cables - same problem. I also now remember this color blockiness happened when I had my DirecTV HD box hooked up to the port, especially around the logo. I've already placed the service call. |
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nicelys Unregistered guest | I have a JVC HD56G786 for a litle over a month and it's worked greate. However while I was watching TV today it stopped working. Now I have a light purple background with vertical lines through the screen on all inputs. I have a warranty on the the TV, but I was curious if anyone has an idea of what is causing this issue? Any thought would be appreciated. Mr. Lynch; Could you please forward your service manual to: nicelys@ntelos.net |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 4 Registered: Sep-05 | Please someone send me the manual for my 52z575 i have a problem whith my color. robergee@videotron.ca |
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Murben Unregistered guest | Hey guys... I have an HD-52z575 built 11/2004 and it looks like I'm up for a light engine replacement. Turned the tv on one day, red's looked black, peoples skin was blue everything was off.... Turned it off then back on, everything was fine. Same process the next couple of days. Called JVC tech support, they talked to me for a few minutes then told me to place a call to the local service center. Called them, after a couple days they called back and said that JVC had authorized a Light Engine replacement and the part had been ordered. After the first few days, the problem got worse and now turning off the tv and turning it back on does not fix it. Now we're stuck watching it with all the bad colors... I have read elsewhere that the replacement light engines have "upgraded" components or design and can actually look better than the original light engines. Is this true? Will it actually be a better picture than when we first bought the TV? Also, we only took the standard 1 year warranty when we originally purchased the TV. Would you guys reccomend buying an extended warranty through JVC? (1 year will expire 1/2006). Could you also e-mail a copy of the service manual to murbenATmurbenDOTnet? Thanks guys!! |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 9 Registered: Oct-05 | For $200, I bought a 5 year with one free lamp replacement. |
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New member Username: BruceorlandoOrlando - Mickey Mouse..., Florida-By-God US of A Post Number: 6 Registered: Oct-05 | I would definitely recommend an extended warranty. The peace of mind to me is worth the extra $$, esp. with some of these sets requiring extensive servicing after months or even years of operation. -bruce |
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Bronze Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 95 Registered: Aug-05 | Brian D Scott, Just so it may help others, what is the name of the company offering 5years, 1 lamp replacement for $200? I'd like to look into that. |
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New member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 10 Registered: Oct-05 | It's Philips. I'll post more details tomorrow evening or you can PM me. |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 5 Registered: Sep-05 | Mr. Lynch, can you add me to the list of people that you send the service manual to? robergee@videotron.ca |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 892 Registered: Sep-04 | I just got back from a nice 4 day weekend, so service manuals are on the way. |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 6 Registered: Sep-05 | Thanks Mr. Lynch, nice move! I will read it like the bible :-) |
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Bronze Member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 11 Registered: Oct-05 | Thanks Mr. Lynch! I still have my service call in, but having this will be fun! |
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Silver Member Username: KanoPost Number: 702 Registered: Oct-04 | May I please have the service manual as well? kano1_8_7@yahoo.com |
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Bronze Member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 12 Registered: Oct-05 | OK, about Philips... The plan is called the Priority Service Plan. I bought it when I purchased the set here in Austin Texas at A&B TV for $200. It covers my set until 4/19/2010. The terms are pretty generic (they cover other types of electronics) but they're concise. I do have a general phone number for service - 1-800-526-1862. Try it and see if you can buy the plan directly from them. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 101 Registered: Aug-05 | Brian D Scott, Thanks for the additional info, you got a deal on that EW. Posted the below in another thread by mistake, meant to post it here: BruceOrlando had posted in another thread (and maybe here as well) something about a ND mod???? RE: I'm looking at doing the ND mod in the future also, just to bring out more shadow detail. * * * * * I current have my set 61z575 hooked up to a Samsung HD SIR-T451 OTA tuner... (I hate the Samsung) Blacks are "OK" for the most part until the scene ends, a scene that just before had blacks in it looking "black"... and then when the scene ends the screen does not look black... (well it's sort of washed out looking type of black) Anyone done the ND mod talked about? And has is this done? Have the service manual and on other sets I have been in to change values so no fear there... Just wondering what this mod is. Supposedly on other boards there is info about changing the black levels on these sets. Anyone care to expand on how this is done? BTW: When powering off set (HD tuner still on) I noticed that the light "black" screen appears for about two seconds, then turns totally "black". I have NOT played around with the settings much, I think gamma correction is ON. Just moved around my AV stuff, sold my old TV so I can get to everything... For the first time tonight sat down to watch it for about an hour or so, the light black /washed out looking black screen really bugging me. |
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Silver Member Username: KanoPost Number: 703 Registered: Oct-04 | I read through quite a few pages at the AVSFORUM and my understanding is that you cut out a Kodak .6 ND filter and cover a section of the light engine. It does not improve shadow detail but rather darkens the black level output, allowing one to increase the brightness on the set to improve black and grayscale while not washing out the blacks. At least that's my understanding I don't think I'll need the mod as I corrected the problem to my liking by keeping the JVC's brightness setting at -3 and increasing it on my DVD players output to +8. This keeps the pincusion out of all but the worst material even on HDMI. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, Is there a difference between the Z service manual and the G service manual? |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 893 Registered: Sep-04 | Tvshopper- I'm sure there are slight differences between the 2 manuals. Mostly with the assembly of the parts and that. When it comes to the Service menu's adjustments and tweeks most everything is the same. I use my "G" series service manual to access the the service menu and make adjustments on a Friends 48" JVC RP CRT, and also on another buddies 32" JVC LCD. Just about every JVC TV made in the 2003-2005+ range use a lot of the same menus and adjustments. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 103 Registered: Aug-05 | Mr Lynch, does your set display a "washed out /light black screen when a scene ends (fade to black) Or during powering OFF. My black levels look pretty good when "blacks" are being displayed in a scene.. its only when the scene ends that the screen gets BRIGHTER.... Any tips? Haven't played around with it too much, and wife is in the AV room right now and doesn't like it when I "play" with the settings so I really haven't had a chance to play with the settings much. It is sort of driving me "mad"... thinking about it... Gamma? |
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JimJ Unregistered guest | I am in need of a manual for a HD61Z886, found it on BuyDig.com for 2400.00 delivered! The price has bumped up to 2509.00 now but still a good price. Delivery is on Monday so waiting anxiously. Please send manual to chronos56@gmail.com Thanks Much |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 894 Registered: Sep-04 | When I turn my set off, it does something similar to what you are saying. I haven't noticed it during regular TV viewing, but since I've had my set for 13 months I might not notice things like that anymore. One thing I do know is you should turn OFF all the "enhancements". They just muddy up the blacks, throw off the colors and generally are no good. I would also highly recommend adjusting the set with atleast the THX program that is on some DVDs (Star Wars, Finding Nemo). AVIA or DVE would be even better. The JVC is an extremely bright/vibrant set out of the box and it needs to be toned down a bit to get a more accurate picture. The blacks can be greatly improved with a few quick adjustments in the user menu. |
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Bronze Member Username: UhphikapPost Number: 24 Registered: Jun-05 | Okay, here's the deal on the TVs for anyone who is still looking. We've put together a heck of a deal at my company. I've already had a couple of calls, a warranty purchase, and some inquiries about purchasing the TV, and I've finally got it all put together. Here's where we stand: HD52G886/786 will be $1930 + $50 for shipping= $1980.00. You can add in the 3-year MACK extended warranty for the TV including the Bulb Warranty for 3 years also for only $210. You're looking at a total package of $2140.00 delivered and the TV will be covered for 4 years. You are not required to buy the warranty, but for this price, it's worth it. HD56G886/786 will be $2350 + $60 for shipping = $2410.00. You can add in the 3-year MACK extended warranty for the TV including the Bulb Warranty for 3 years also for only $210. You're looking at a total package of $2620.00 delivered and the TV will be covered for 4 years. You are not required to buy the warranty, but for this price, it's worth it. I'll also be selling the extended warranty combo (TV+Bulb) separate for $210.00 also. No freight charges on this. Lamps are still the same deal as described above. Once again, if I can be of assistance, please call 1-866-827-3489 and ask to speak with Brian, or feel free to order online at www-dot-tapeworkstexas-dot-com. You will find the TVs listed at these prices under the "Web Specials" section of our website. You can also email me at tapeworksbrian-at-sbcglobal-dot-net We are an authorized JVC Dealer and will likely be shipping the unit directly from JVC to you, just in case there are any questions. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 895 Registered: Sep-04 | Brian- Those are some great deals. The lamp insurance should be a given. At that price it pays for itself. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, Drop me an email, please. golf_champ@hotmail.com |
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Steve Burany Unregistered guest | Mr Lynch... good evening! Could you send me a copy of the service manual for the 52Z575 (sburany@gmail.com) I've had an interesting 4 months with the unit. A month ago, it wouldn't turn on. The service guy showed up with a new bulb but it turned out to be the power supply. I just picked up a HDTV reciever (Bell) and went to try it out and nothing's coming though on the digital port so I guess it's time for another phone call. Thanks in advance... Steve |
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Bronze Member Username: MthomPost Number: 46 Registered: May-05 | Hi Mr. Lynch, It's been awhile since I posted here, but I've just been enjoying the TV. I mentioned a while back that after I unplugged my set to do some home improvement, I had lost my on-screen display settings and hadn't written them down. Well, as I started reading the forum today I got inspired to bring out the DVE discs and re-calibrate, and also adjust the R,G,B in the service menu (as you mentioned, my green was high). Here's the issue - as I adjusted the settings in the service menu, I noticed that I didn't see a difference on the screen. Then as I started adjusting the color on-screen setting using DVE, I noticed a pale washed out look, especially in the yellow, even after I recalibrated the brightness and contrast. When I used the blue filter, I couldn't get anywhere close, and the wierd part was the color adjustment really wasn't changing anything at all (except when I got to -15 to -30. The other wierd thing was in the DVE demonstration when they show a picture of the color pattern in the demonstration (before the actual full screen color pattern), the yellow looked better, but once I got to the main DVE color pattern, it was off again. Then I switched to a saved color pattern on my Tivo (connected via HDMI) and that color pattern was off too. The yellow looked better, but some of the gray scale was blue. From looking at live TV, I probably wouldn't have noticed this, so I'm not sure how long it's been like this. But I know that I was able to get a good calibration from both DVE and the Tivo pattern a few months ago. Seen anything like this? I'm hoping it is a fluke and will check again tomorrow. Thanks! |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 896 Registered: Sep-04 | Michael- That sounds unusual. I was able to get the Red and Blue dead on, and the only problems I had were with the green. After you made adjustments in the service menu, did you save them? If you don't press the "muting" button, adjustments you make will not be saved. I'm not really sure what the issue with your set is. I've had a color issue a time or 2, but usually just turning the set off and back on fix it. Hopefully everything works fine for you next time you use the TV. |
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Bronze Member Username: MthomPost Number: 47 Registered: May-05 | I was also able to get Red and Blue pretty much dead on when I calibrated a few months ago (with green a little high). I did save the settings, and I also went back to the original settings to see if that fixed it, but same issue. I tried turning the TV off and on a few times last night, but nothing ... I'm hoping a night of "rest" will clear it up. I'll have to check it tonight. |
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New member Username: Jnice72Lakeland, FL United States Post Number: 3 Registered: Oct-05 | OK, here's something weird. As previously posted, I have a problem with my light engine, and the blue colors were gone from the TV. I called service, they ordered a new light engine, and I am currently waiting for it to get off of backorder so that they can fix the TV. Before they left, they asked if I wanted them to take the TV or leave it in the house until the engine came in. Obviously I kept the TV rather than have it sit idle in a repair shop and leave a gaping hole in the living room, so I've been watching it, even though it was yellow. A funny thing happened last night when I was watching the Cards-Stros game - the blue color came back, and the picture was normal again! I was a bit shocked, but pretty happy to not be seeing yellow (and not from too much beer!). The convergence was not correct - there was now a blue halo around the Cardinals home whites. Before the blue went out, there was no convergence issue. It was easy enough to adjust (thanks again for the manual, Mr. Lynch), but this also seemed odd. I am still waiting on a light engine, and I am going to go ahead with the replacement, but the TV seems normal again - the colors are correct today as I type this. Anyone have an explanation for this? Or at least a wild guess? Did the god of JVC listen to my, uh, "prayers?" (S/He obviously ignores profanity.) |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 124 Registered: Aug-05 | jnice72, Could be a bad solder. Each time you tru the set on the set heats up, and each time you turn it off it contracts. If you have a marginal solder it get worse with each on/off cycle (Which happens ALOT due to the WAY the boards are WAVE soldered.) Google wave soldering, you will find that, unless they go back and hand solder LARGER items on the board the LARGER items will be the first to develop a problem. On a board you have SMALL, and LARGE items... IF you get the solder HOT enough to really solder the LARGE items RIGHT... the smaller items get "fried" so they adjust the heat /speed when run thru the wave soldering machine so it doesn't "fry" the smaller items... the larger items NOT really getting a good solder. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 125 Registered: Aug-05 | jnice72, Could be a bad solder. Each time you tun the set ON the set heats up, and each time you turn it OFF it COOLS and contracts. If you have a marginal solder it get worse with each on/off cycle (Which happens ALOT due to the WAY the boards are WAVE soldered.) Google wave soldering, you will find that, unless they go back and hand solder LARGER items on the board the LARGER items will be the first to develop a problem. On a board you have SMALL, and LARGE items... IF you get the solder HOT enough to really solder the LARGE items RIGHT... the smaller items get "fried" so they adjust the heat /speed when run thru the wave soldering machine so it doesn't "fry" the smaller items... the larger items NOT really getting a good solder. |
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Bronze Member Username: RockymtnbriRound Rock, Texas USA Post Number: 13 Registered: Oct-05 | Update - the tech came to my house today and he's ordering a new HDMI port for my set. I showed him an Anime DVD (he called it a cartoon) and although he saw what I saw (blockiness instead of smooth shading) he called it in to JVC to verify. It'll be a couple of weeks, so I'll let y'all know if I see any major difference. |
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Gregg Havens Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch would you please send me the manual also. gregghavens@email.com |
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Bronze Member Username: Glo_boPost Number: 12 Registered: Dec-04 | I have had my set (august 2004) december 04 build, the lamp went out after 5 months and now it looks like it is going out again. set starts to become dark. It is on approx 4 hours a day. Is this normal? I would hate to replace the lamp every six months. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | globo, No, that is not normal. Are you sure that the fan is working properly and that the set is going through a cool down period after you shut it off (i.e. do you hear the fan running for 90 seconds or so after you turn off the power)? I run my TV at least 4 hours per day (many are more like 6) and I've had the same lamp for a year and counting. |
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Bronze Member Username: MthomPost Number: 48 Registered: May-05 | Mr. Lynch (et al), Well, I feel a little dumb, but I figured out my color issue ... my contrast/picture setting was way too low (and I hadn't noticed it). I still haven't gotten everything perfect, but I should be able to adjust it all now. Quick question ... I use the Theater mode most often for both DVD's and Tivo. Has anyone calibrated the other modes, and how would we calibrate them? I wouldn't want them all to look the same after calibration, but probably want to tweak the default settings. I know Dynamic is a brighter image for daytime viewing and Game has more green for sports. Any thoughts on how to calibrate and preserve the intent of the other settings. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 901 Registered: Sep-04 | M.T.- Just callibrate each mode using DVE or AVIA. It will give you acurate white/black levels and the colors will be correct, but the picture WILL look different in each mode. They each use different color temperatures so you will still see a big difference between them all. On page 16 of the service manual, you can see JVC has set different levels for each mode that you can not change.  |
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Bronze Member Username: MthomPost Number: 49 Registered: May-05 | Oh, I thought those were just the default settings for each mode (same settings that you adjust in the menu) but never did check it out. |
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Bronze Member Username: MthomPost Number: 50 Registered: May-05 | Here's another dumb question ... Why does the are the resolutions above (and in the service menu) 525, 750, 1125 versus 480, 720, 1080? |
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Bronze Member Username: Glo_boPost Number: 13 Registered: Dec-04 | thanks tvshopper, I did not think it was normal for the lamp to go out every six months, anyone have comments on what the issue might be (MR Lynch?) |
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Bronze Member Username: Glo_boPost Number: 14 Registered: Dec-04 | RE: lamp out after 6 months, Yes I always hear the fan it goes through its cool down and is not to close to the wall. I have power conditioner and battery backup also. Would this have anything to do with the replacement part everyone is doing my date was right on the border of being good. |
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Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, I have a JVC HD-61Z886 and I was wondering if you have a service manual for that model? If so...would you mind sending me a copy to mrdavisdrummer@gmail.com? Thanks in advance! BTW For anyone wondering, I've had my JVC for about 4 months now and it is absolutely amazing. The color and picture quality when viewing a true HD signal is striking to say the least. It's almost like looking out a window. Great job JVC and to all of you that have posted such useful information here. |
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New member Username: AwdracerPost Number: 4 Registered: Sep-05 | Mr Lynch. Could you send me a service manual for the JVC HD52Z575 D-ILA TV . Thanks! awdracer@yahoo.com |
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Bronze Member Username: SuzukimanYorkville, IL Us Post Number: 21 Registered: Sep-05 | Ok guys, got the TV fixed. Here are all the listed parts they replaced. New DVI module (HDMI) box. New Ballast New Light Engine (pics below) The new light engine is the first picture; you can see they have changed the entire shielding on the outer case. The second picture is the old one, and used a copper shielding; new one is now all-metal cased. Picture as Mr. Lynch has said is much brighter now with these new light engines...I also noticed the green push is gone too, the set looks dead on now, with maybe a slight blue push...but I'm not positive on that. You must do a lens focus when the tech leaves your home, as most techs will tell you that its all factory set. Bull, it was way off...tweaked the focus and all is good. Another very cool thing is..I can go in and out of the TV back with no problems with HDMI copy protection...nothing to reset at all, just went over his work to make sure all the wires are in the proper locations, tucked nicely, and screws where all there. Very happy with this set now... Can someone please post their settings for the New Light Engine, after they had a ISF technician calibrate there set...The actual service menu settings from start to finish. This would be greatly appreciated.   |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 7 Registered: Sep-05 | mr Lynch, i change my light engine because i have green spot problem, can i use your settings for my new light engine? And is that normal that every body in this group have a problem whith theyre tv? Thanks. ps: sorry for my english im a french canadian :-) |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 141 Registered: Aug-05 | RE: New DVI module (HDMI) box. New Ballast New Light Engine Frank, Thanks for the update. A "few" questions: You may posted it before, what set do you have? What serial number range? Production date? Have you gone into the service menu, writing down the values, comparing to see if anything changed? The reason I ask is I'm not too happy with the black levels, and I'm not too happy to hear that taking off the back of the set will trigger the HDMI connection into NOT working. I would like to take the back of my set off to "look around", Where is that pesky light sensor, and what is the proper procedure to make sure it's NOT tripped?... So you had the back on the set off, since the tech has left? and the HDMI is still working? Any thoughts on were the sensor is? Why if it was a copy protection "thing" that they have changed this? My blacks are pretty good UNTIL a scene ENDS, or there is a NIGHT, or DARK scene.... the blacks are very murky /grayish looking. I'm coming from a CRT based set, but these blacks, or night scenes are washed out looking to the extreme. I'm wondering "IF" it would be worth the BS to try to get the parts swapped out, and wondering the reason you used to get the parts swapped out. I remember you posting saying your HDMI was not working, were you having problems with the light engine as well? My set: HD-61z575 Serial number: 06086xxx Mfg date: January 2005 PS: I you could post the part numbers of the parts replaced that would be helpful. One last thought, since you've seen the light engine UP close (got any more pictures?).... I'm wondering IF a Neutral density filter could be installed into the light path BEFORE, right before the assembly the chips are mounted to, instead of AFTER the lenses /chips. ( To get the blacks in dark scenes more "black") In black /dark scenes there is a "haze", like too much light is coming thru. I do have a NEW lamp, with about 10 hours (if that run time on it.) I would assume at some point, maybe 100 hours? that this murky look tones down, due to the lamp not being as "bright"????? (Wishful thinking, I'm sure... I'm sure at some point the lamp output will decrease) Here is a link to a filter installed AFTER the lenses. I'd like to install a Kodak Wratten Gel Neutral Density right BEFORE the light engine (to keep it away from the heat of the lamp)... wondering if anyone else has thought about the same. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=406634 If installing it BEFORE the light engine is NOT possible, I'm wondering IF the D-Ila has a filter already, that maybe can be swapped out for a darker one? The Service manual shows a SHADE cover on page 1-13, fig 4 (T) that look likes it covers the lens., (maybe used during shipping on light engine to protect lens from damage? Thrown away after light engine is installed?).... It also shows a "Top shade bracket" on page 1-11, fig 3 ®... Wondering about that, if maybe the info in the above link could be used. BTW: Told you it would need to be "focused" after the tech left. Was that a big deal? Do you go thru the front or the back? On that ISF calibration, I wouldn't worry about it until you've run the set for at least 100 hours, If it was me I'd use Avia, etc and touch up the values if needed to MY eyes liking. :-) If I'm reading the service manual and Mr Lynch's previous posts correctly there aren't too many values you can really play around with anyways. That service manual REALLY needs to be re-written, Anyone have a more current version than NO.YA092 ? (2004, 32 total pages, no schematics.) There's GOT to be more info /training info on these D--ILA sets.... |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 142 Registered: Aug-05 | RE: New DVI module (HDMI) box. New Ballast New Light Engine Frank, Thanks for the update. A "few" questions: You may have posted it before, what set do you have? What serial number range? Production date? Have you gone into the service menu, writing down the values, comparing to see if anything changed? The reason I ask is I'm not too happy with the black levels, and I'm not too happy to hear that taking off the back of the set will trigger the HDMI connection into NOT working. I would like to take the back of my set off to "look around", Where is that pesky light sensor, and what is the proper procedure to make sure it's NOT tripped?... So you had the back on the set off, since the tech has left? and the HDMI is still working? Any thoughts on were the sensor is? Why if it was a copy protection "thing" that they have changed this? My blacks are pretty good UNTIL a scene ENDS, or there is a NIGHT, or DARK scene.... the blacks are very murky /grayish looking. I'm coming from a CRT based set, but these blacks, or night scenes are washed out looking to the extreme. I'm wondering "IF" it would be worth the BS to try to get the parts swapped out, and wondering the reason you used to get the parts swapped out. I remember you posting saying your HDMI was not working, were you having problems with the light engine as well? My set: HD-61z575 Serial number: 06086xxx Mfg date: January 2005 PS: I you could post the part numbers of the parts replaced that would be helpful. One last thought, since you've seen the light engine UP close (got any more pictures?).... I'm wondering IF a Neutral density filter could be installed into the light path BEFORE, right before the assembly the chips are mounted to, instead of AFTER the lenses /chips. ( To get the blacks in dark scenes more "black") In black /dark scenes there is a "haze", like too much light is coming thru. I do have a NEW lamp, with about 10 hours (if that run time on it.) I would assume at some point, maybe 100 hours? that this murky look tones down, due to the lamp not being as "bright"????? (Wishful thinking, I'm sure... I'm sure at some point the lamp output will decrease) Here is a link to a filter installed AFTER the lenses. I'd like to install a Kodak Wratten Gel Neutral Density right BEFORE the light engine (to keep it away from the heat of the lamp)... wondering if anyone else has thought about the same. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=406634 If installing it BEFORE the light engine is NOT possible, I'm wondering IF the D-Ila has a filter already, that maybe can be swapped out for a darker one? The Service manual shows a SHADE cover on page 1-13, fig 4 (T) that look likes it covers the lens., (maybe used during shipping on light engine to protect lens from damage? Thrown away after light engine is installed?).... It also shows a "Top shade bracket" on page 1-11, fig 3 ®... Wondering about that, if maybe the info in the above link could be used. BTW: Told you it would need to be "focused" after the tech left. Was that a big deal? Do you go thru the front or the back? On that ISF calibration, I wouldn't worry about it until you've run the set for at least 100 hours, If it was me I'd use Avia, etc and touch up the values if needed to MY eyes liking. :-) If I'm reading the service manual and Mr Lynch's previous posts correctly there aren't too many values you can really play around with anyways. That service manual REALLY needs to be re-written, Anyone have a more current version than NO.YA092 ? (2004, 32 total pages, no schematics.) There's GOT to be more info /training info on these D--ILA sets.... |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 902 Registered: Sep-04 | WANA69- When I purchased the service manual, you also get the scematics on a seperate file. It is quite large. I can dig it up if your interested. If your looking for something more current, go to the JVC website under the parts area and do a search. The service manual is basically a Key CD that allows you access to a special JVC website loaded with all their service manual, schematics and many other things. The disc with the Dila info allows you access to about a 100 different JVC products. I'm sure JVC sells a new version of this disc. They run about $25. Eric- It is not normal for the JVC to need repair. Just some of the real early adopters had a great chance for issues. Kind of like buying a new model car. You can use my setting with your new light engine, but I would recommend fine tweeking them with Avia or DVE. each set is a little different so my seting might not be ideal for you, but they should be very close. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 145 Registered: Aug-05 | Mr Lynch, Sent you a PM. Hope to hear back from you soon. Thanks!!!!!! |
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Bronze Member Username: SuzukimanYorkville, IL Us Post Number: 22 Registered: Sep-05 | WeAreNotAlone69- It looked like the left side has a piece of yellow tape covering an optical sensor inside the case, about 6" from the bottom on the side of the case. At this point when the reset on the TV HDMI was done it still thinks its back is installed. So the back on my set can come on and off w/ no problems, because the tech didn't see the tape there in the first place..he just left it there. I believe they applied this at the factory and forgot to take it off. The blacks on this set is WAY better almost CRT levels. When I watch a 4:3 picture or a letterbox picture the blacks around the screen are as black as the deepest blacks in the scene...Very happy with this. When I was watching the Sox game the helmets are nice and black with nice reflection coming off them...lol. To achieve these nice blacks I had to turn the brightness way down -20 to be exact. I also turned the picture down to -5. To adjust the lens focus just remove both sides of the speaker grills, four screws for the center panel, then two more screws for the black cover after that. The lever for focus is right there, be sure to loosen the Allen key first (it's a small one) then tighten when you're all done. Just hit the menu button and use that as you focus image, get it the best you can and tighten the Allen key. Re-install everything and you're all set. Takes about 20 min or so. My set seemed to have more of a blue drive than green, so Mr. Lynch's values really didn't look good for me. See... the whites had a blue drive I wanted to remove. I wanted my white to be white so the values of Green-128, Red-126, and Blue-116 seemed more accurate, whites are now white and all is good. The old light engine seemed to have more of a green drive as seen in some of the blacks and on the left side of the screen when room was dark and watching a movie. I'm sorry but that is all the pics I have of the light engines. I have the HD52Z575 set. Light Engine part# TS-C0P5A-SAA DVI Module (HDMI box) part# SRP0D008A-M2 Ballast (Power unit) part# TS-CBL6A-SAA Hope this helps. |
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Bronze Member Username: SuzukimanYorkville, IL Us Post Number: 23 Registered: Sep-05 | I forgot to add, my production date is July 04. Also anyone know what the IP in the service menu, system check means? |
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Bronze Member Username: FfbPost Number: 20 Registered: Jan-05 | mr lynch, you are the expert so here goes my question. i am waiting for the jvc 62 inch 1080i to come out to buy. 'i have an order with best buy in miami pending delivery advice . but ,yesterday while in new york i went into the sony showroom and saw their new 60 inch using the same technology as jvc ,lcos. i think that they cal it sxrd. it is a 1080 i and looks great. it is actually a cheaper version from the qualia 70 incher .the downgrade from thew qualia is , 10 a 120 watt bulb vs. a 200 in the qualia,and 2)a qualia will accept a 1080p signal and display it. this set will not. and that is it.at $4,999. vs. 13,000 for the qualia. but, according to sony guys in the showroom the new set ia 1080i and it will upconvert signals to 1080i. but ,it will not take a 1080p signal and play it.(unlike the qualia ) instead it will down convert it and up again to a 1080i signal. there have been only 3 or 4 broadcasts in 1080p in the past 10 months and i wonder if dvd's will be released in 1080p in the near future. anyhow, the 60 inch sony set is amazing . but not as bright as the jvc set. on the other hand it may not have all of the quality glitches that the jvc has had including a couple of total recalls ,(i was told by a best buy and a brandsmart executive of the complete recalls from the showroom floors ). so, i am no longer as confused as i have been. also ,i read a review of the sony in home theater magazine and they do point out some color problems but they rate this set best overall of all out there.and,their explanation of what it can and not do matches what the sony guys told me. so, my question to you because you are on top of all of this......... does it make sense to buy a jvc over this sony set on the basis of the reliability issues ? and, does it make sense to buy a 1080i set that cannot process a 1080p signal ( i assume the jvc is in the same boat as this set ). and,if all this is correct , and maybe 1080p sets like the qualia may start comming out in 2 years or so at less than the $13,000 the qualia costs would you a) buy a 1080i set,or b)wait ,or c) get a current jvc set with all if its problems at a reduced price and wait for the 1080p sets to come out in force ? thank you for your read of this post and your best thoughts on the subject. and , by the way, it appears that sony is going the jvc route ---lcos---for their top of the line sets. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 903 Registered: Sep-04 | Nice post Frank. Glad to hear you got your TV looking good. I felt the same way about my black levels after the updated light engine was installed in my August 04 set. Like I've said many times before every set is slightly different, so the setting I use might not work for others. Each chipset will have a small variance in how it reflexs the light and you need to adjust every TV seperately to account for that. I'm glad you adjusted your set to what looks good to you because that's what counts. Any one else watch the NFL in HD? Is it just me, or does yellow seem to show up extremely bright? Not just on my set, but on EVERY HDTV I've watched football on. Field goal posts almost glow an extremely bright yellow, and the Steelers uniforms really standout. It think it is rather cool looking, but it might be a little unrealistic. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, The goal posts do stick out but they are not painted yellow anymore. They are a neon yellow/green. I attend Packer games and sit right behind the goal posts. The color changed in the past few years. That may explain your observation on the goal posts. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 150 Registered: Aug-05 | Frank, IP =DIST PROCESSING (page 1-30 YA-092 Service manual) Same as IC3001 DVI references the "IC3001" On that "sensor" that if left uncovered /exposed to light KILLS the HDMI input.. (page 1-3) Take a look...  I'm trying to picture exactly where it is (since my set more than likely does NOT have the yellow tape left on it still and I don't want to kill the HDMI input before I even use it) (I would "assume" that NOT powering on the set, unless the sensor IS taped over should not kill the HDMI) |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 904 Registered: Sep-04 | TV shopper- Thanks for the info. How did you pull some Packer tickets? I saw on ESPN that people will put their newborns on the waiting list for season tickets, and around the time the kids turn 40 they usually get a pair of seats. I'd love to experience a game in GB someday. A lot of times here is Seattle you can walk up to the gate before the game and get a seat. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 905 Registered: Sep-04 | f.f.b. Let me start off my saying that the 1080p vs. 720p debate is a tough one. The only way to get a 1080p signal right now is thru a PC. You will not see any regular broadcasts in 1080p for several years. 720p is compressed to 35 to 1 to fit the bandwidth restrictions as it is. 1080p is 2x the size. The new Xbox 360 does not support 1080p, but the uncoming PS3 might. HD-DVD and Blu-Ray will probably support it at one point, but with players coming out next year at a $1000 price point I doubt their will be much of a video selection for some time. The new Sonys are incredible, but as you said they do not support a 1080p signal. The new JVC will. Why buy a 1080p set if you can take advantage of it's full potential? If I had a $5,000 budget to buy a TV today, I personally would spend $2,500 on a 720p JVC, enjoy the crap out of it for a few years and then use the other $2500 to buy a 1080p set when there is much more 1080p support. The price of the sets are sure to drop, and will contain many more features then. A year ago when I bought my JVC (z series), it has a floor price at Best Buy of $3499. When I was in Best Buy last week, then had the 2nd generation model (g series) with more feature for $2299. I'm sure 1080p sets will follow the same trend. Either way you go (1080p or 720p, Sony or JVC) your going to get a killer set you will love for many years. Good luck with your choice! |
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INDY Unregistered guest | The price difference between the JVC 56" 720p and the 1080p set is only $650.00 JVC HD56G786 56 Inch D-ILA HDTV with 720p Signal $2249.00 JVC HD56FH96 56 Inch D-ILA HDTV with 1080p Signal $2,899.00 The price difference between the JVC 61" 720p and the 1080p set is only $700.00 JVC HD61Z786 61Inch D-ILA HDTV with 720p Signal $2599.00 JVC HD61FH96 61 Inch D-ILA HDTV with 1080p Signal $3,299.00 Source: |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 906 Registered: Sep-04 | Indy, The Sony 60" SXRD set is going for around $5000. that's the set I was mainly talking about when it comes to prices. I would rather get a 56" or 61" 720p JVC and save $2000+ When you throw the JVC 1080p set into the mix, it makes it a bit tougher to choose. I believe most retailers will sell the 61" JVC 1080p for $4000+ though. By the time we get any true 1080p content, both those sets will probably be well south of the $3000 mark, will contain more features and probably provide a better picture too. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, I got them the old fashioned way...I married into them. My father-in-law has owned four tickets since the stadium (Lambeau Field) was first built. It is a magical place. I get to see your Seahawks on New Years Day. And, I was at the "we want the ball and we're gonna score" game. We love it when "The Show" (Mike Holmgren) gets beat. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 907 Registered: Sep-04 | Lucky guy. In the mid 80's the Seahawks had a 10 year wait for season tickets, but now they have trouble selling out every game. The new Staduim is incredible, but when you haven't won a playoff game since the 80's the fans tend to stay away. This might be the year the Hawks break thru, but not if the players can't stay out of bar fights (Hamlin). Thanks for the video by the way. |
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Bronze Member Username: FfbPost Number: 21 Registered: Jan-05 | thank you mr.lynch . your advice is always apreciated . will wait until i get back to miami in 3 weeks and see what is going on with the jvc sets as far as price points is concerned. will probably follow your advice. ffb |
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Bronze Member Username: SuzukimanYorkville, IL Us Post Number: 24 Registered: Sep-05 | WeAreNotAlone69, thanks for the info on the IP. Just not sure why I have a NG showing there in the systen check. Not sure why I also show a NG-1 for HDMI it works fine also...hmmm, I don't know..? I'm watching the game tonight, baseball that is... and looks like Fox Network is using a better camera, the picture is much clearer with no ghosting ect. |
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New member Username: CagliostroQuebec, Quebec Canada Post Number: 8 Registered: Sep-05 | Finaly i change my light engine on a 52z575 the green spot probleme is resolve but now it's a yellow vertical stripe problem :-)i change my mind, go to the tv shop in Quebec and turn on for a 52g886! Does anyone know if this tv had problem like the early 52z575? Thanks. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Frank, When we changed my light engine, the tech looked at the self-check in the menu and there was an NG code in the HDMI and it did not work. He reset the code (I think you turn off the power while you're in the menu to do that) and it worked. Try that. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Ok. I know that I should probably post this somewhere else but, hey, I trust you folks. Saturday I am finally pulling the trigger on a surround system At this point, I think I've settled on purchasing separates. I'm looking at Yamaha or Panasonic for the receiver and Polk or Infinity for the speakers. I think I'm going to get a 5.1 system as I am in a relatively small space. What I'm looking for is opinions. What have you tried? What works? Brands, models, etc. Also, how do you hook all this up? I know that there are options but I want to hear what everyone thinks is the best. I am hooking up my 786, a Charter cable DVR and a Toshiba 5970 DVD (currently hooked up via HDMI). So, have at it. Thank you for your help. |
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Silver Member Username: Wearenotalone69Post Number: 154 Registered: Aug-05 | Frank (and others that may know also) By looking at at the below, Can you pinpoint WHERE the optical sensor is that DISABLES the HDMI input if the: Back is left off the back of the set, and the unit is powered ON.    |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 908 Registered: Sep-04 | TV Shopper- How big of a room are we talking? I would highly recommend picking up a 7.1 reciever. Even if you only use it as a 5.1 for now, expanding in the future would be very simple. You really won't pay much more either. |
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New member Username: Bruce_gPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-05 | Late update on Light Engine swap. After 5 weeks of initiate claim, confirm failure, order parts, wait, they finally got the new light engine installed in the 52Z585. Per Mr. Lynch's recommendation I checked for dead pixels etc, it all looks good. I want to check the focus as I am not sure it is quite right. My bifocals are suboptimal so I am not sure of what I am seeing at a casual glance. Shortly after the light engine replacement, we discovered the unit would not power down properly. After hitting the button on the remote, the screen would go dark but the blue light on the front bezel would stay lit and the Lamp led would flash slowly. Even after an hour - no change. I have just called the service provider, they have ordered a replacement lamp. We will see what that does for us. We still have analog cable so the only digital input I can observe is the DVD's the kids put in. I have not had an opportunity to tinker with the settings yet. Hopefully that, in combination with the focus, will yield some improvements. Bruce G. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, The room is approximately 15 X 15. So, it is okay to run a 7.1 in a 5.1 setup? I wasn't clear on that. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 909 Registered: Sep-04 | It won't be a problem at all. You just select the 5.1 mode (DD or DTS) on your reciever. When you upgrade and add the 2 rear speakers for 7.1 sound, you can select the DD-EX, NEO-7, DTS-ES or whatever else the reciever will support. Most 7.1 recievers will take a 5.1 signal and remix it for use with a 7.1 system. 15 x 15 is a good size room. Mine is about 12 x 12 and I currently have the following: Older Panasonic 5.1 receiver (soon to be replaced by a 7.1 JVC receiver with HDMI output) Front speakers: Infinity RS-5 tower speakers Center: Infinity CC-3 Surrounds: Infinity Qps-1 quadrapole speakers Rear (for upcoming 7.1 receiver): Infinity ERS-210 in-wall speakers behind the couch Subwoofer: custom built box with 300w amp and 3 JL audio 8" subs. I pieced everything together over the years and I love it. It is more than loud enough for anything that I throw at it and it makes action movies 10x more exciting to watch. A decent surround system will take your viewing experience to a new level. There is nothing like watching Monday night football in HD with the crowd cheering behind you thru the surrounds and the big hits rumbling though the sub. It is the next best thing to being there. |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, Thanks for the info. How do you have yours hooked up? That is, what do you hook up where and through what and in what order? (I feel like Rosannrosannadana.) |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 911 Registered: Sep-04 | maybe this will help... w/ DVD player hooked up via HDMI  w/ cable box hooked up to HDMI via DVI to HDMI cable  |
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