Archive through December 10, 2004
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HS Unregistered guest | Dave: Which size of Z585 you ordered? 52 or 61? |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 34 Registered: Nov-04 | I have a hold on a 52 inch unit. I can not exceed 50 inchs of cabinet space. I may say I'll take it for $2700. If they byte good, if they don't I'll wait for the 795. PS: price is in CT. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 278 Registered: Sep-04 | Dave- No need to wait for the z795. The firewire port is an input only. For hooking up camcorders and that. Built in tuners seem like a waste unless you only have acess to OTA HD. I also don't like cablecards. They are only 1 way so you lose your TV guide, and can't do On-demand or PPV. 2 way cablecards are years away, and won't be compatible with the current ports. The fan on the JVC only runs when the TV is on, and for about 90 seconds after shutdown. |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 35 Registered: Nov-04 | Thanks Mr Lynch. They are removing my Mitsu this Sat, have a 52 inch JVC (black/black) on hold. If I go for it, we'll have to pick it up, as delivery is $60. Hope it fits in my Toyota Sienna. Anyone know if it's okay to ship on it's side or is it a keep upright only type unit i.e. mirrors, etc. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 279 Registered: Sep-04 | I got a nice delema. I work in Downtown Seattle and a co-worker offered me his 100 level tickets to the Seahawks MNF game. Should I sit in the cold rain and watch the game, or should I relax on the warm, dry, comfy couch and watch it on my JVC in beautiful High Definition and surround sound? Before I got my TV it was an easy choice, but now I'm leaning toward going home. Dave- I carried mine in the back of a 4 door Chevy Blazer. I had to lay it on it's back to get it to fit. That was in late August and I've had no issues. The travel time was about 30 minutes, 1/2 of it through stop and go traffic, the other 1/2 going 60 on the freeway. |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 36 Registered: Nov-04 | It'll be a tight fit, my van is about 48" wide max and the box I am told is 46x24x64. The 64 inch seems off PS: serial number begins with 15 Oct build? |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 280 Registered: Sep-04 | Dave, look for a 15(Oct) or 16(Nov) in the serial number followed by a 09 (2004). |
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malcolm Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch: You may not have seen my earlier post, so I repeat it here and would welcome your comments: "You have a pretty good handle on this JVC set. I have a question regarding receiving HDTV-OTA. You advise that the JVC only has an NTSC type tuner and no ATSC tuner, but our local stations boadcast their Digital-SDTV and HDTV signals on a different channel to their NTSC signal. Therefore would I expect to pick up HDTV & Digital-SDTV utilizing a DirecTV tuner? For HDTV I will have satellite service which also provides local channels in SDTV ONLY (cable has no HDTV available at all!) -- or am I out-of luck for HDTV-OTA? Thanks" |
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Unregistered guest | All: Although I am quite new to the home theatre game, I have quite a bit of experience as an audio engineer. Here are my answers to some recently asked questions on the audio side. Optical vs coax: The digital signal after the optical modulation/demodulation is identical to the coax signals (most of the time). I say most of the time because sometimes coax outputs of some devices are stereo-only S/PDIF. When the outputs are both putting out Dolby Digital or dts surround, the final digital signals are identical. The biggest difference between Optical and coax is in interference and digital noise due to capacitance issues changing the state of the signals in coax. Coax runs are, therefore, often run-length limited (in my recording studio I seldom run 75 Ohm coax longer than 10 ft.). The light pulses in fibre optic cable are pretty much immune to everything except, of course, severe crimping of the cables. I've routinely run 50 ft runs of TosLink "lightpipe" carrying 8-channels of digital audio at 24 bit/96KHz between digital mixers and digital recorders in my studio without any problems. So, in short, for short runs using good quality 75 Ohm coax cable, the signals should be identical. Separation of front R/L speakers: The rule of thumb that most studio engineers employ for optimal stereo imaging is a triangle placement where the speakers are as separate from each other as the listener is from the spot in the center point between the speakers, although this really applies as a law when the listener is in the nearfield (within 4 ft, or so, of the center of the speakers). To the point of practicality, you can apply this to further listening distances. In a home theatre environment where the screen is the center of focus, you are not trying to optimally preserve a "stereo" image. Indeed, in a 5.1 or 7.1 mix for film, most of the dialog and screen related information is carried by the center channel. The L/R front speakers are carrying ambient, music and effect information mostly for things that apply to what is going on in peripheral areas of the screen (a door closing on the left, for example). In playing with setting the front speakers for use with the Apex as my TV monitor, having them spread about 6 ft gave very plesant results for both music and surround video with my listening distance at about 9 ft. It is amazing how much your brain fills in for the spread between the front and surround speakers. Subwoofer placement: After consulting with Dr Hsu, I ended up placing my sub behind the couch I listen on with the passive ports facing away from the couch into a big void (in my case the space off the loft my home theater occupies that is a room that is 45' long 26' wide and 28' high). This may seem odd, but with the sub right behind the couch (it's a downfiring system, BTW), I am sitting in the nearfield and the image is of directionless bass. It is interesting to note that Dr. Hsu was the only person at any of the 5 "high-end" subwoofer places I shopped at who correctly predicted this behavior. One guy even suggested that I wouldn't be satisfied without a minimum of 4 subs running at about a total power output of 3000W (which is what you would need to bring the whole area including the loft and the room it overhangs to reference signal levels if you figure the cubic ft). That my single 340W Hsu sub gives all the bass I can take (down to about 18 Hz) suggests that Dr. Hsu's assessment of the nearfield properties of sonic frequencies lower than 60 Hz is correct. My recommendation would certainly be to keep the sub so that you are in its nearfield. Moss |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 22 Registered: Nov-04 | Rick, >> Speaker distance Absolutely. The db separation between the speakers is designed with this in mind and the way human ears are designed they are much more efficient at descerning the spearation at these angles. Here's a link to my Klipsch speakers manual. Look at page 2 and 12. http://www.klipsch.com/media/Products/Manual%20Synergy%2004%20.pdf Here's a little text ... "Left and Right Main Channel Speakers -- For optimum performance, Klipsch suggests placing your speakers six to 15 feet (2 to 4.5m) apart and at least 24 inches (60.8cm) from the back and side walls. They may also be toed-in slightly for better stereo imaging. The listening position should be about 1 to 1.5 times the distance separating the speakers. Refer to Figures 1, 2 and 4 for connection and placement. Center Channel Speakers -- Center channel speakers are designed to place dialogue and primary sounds so that they appear to come from the video screen. The speakers should therefore be placed as close to the screen as possible, preferably directly on top of or below the screen. Refer to Figures 2, 3 and 4 for connection and placement." |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 23 Registered: Nov-04 | Rick, PS audio ... After you get these set up, you'll have to rebalance them and if your receiver will allow it ... set the proper delays so that the L/R/C image comes in properly. This is pure math and some receivers just allow you to input the measured distance to each speaker. It makes quite a difference when it's all set-up correctly. Sub's usually are best near a corner as the corner acts as a corner reflector back into the listening area. That's my 2 cents anyway .. try to get them as close to atleast 1x your distance and if they end up closer to you due to a corner viewing arrangement .. cant the speakers inward. Ang |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 24 Registered: Nov-04 | Denon 1910 vs Toshiba 5970 OK .. I hooked up both and switched between the 2 using Nemo and Spiderman 2. I would say that across the board, the Denon looks like a better picture .. though not by leaps and bounds .... but certainly noticable for those who would look ... Detail, smoothness of backgrounds, antialiasing, colors .. all better. The macroblocking, artifacts and color banding we all slightly more noticeable on the Toshiba. Denon has more settings and controls over picture at the decoder side (color, brightness, contrast, black level). I found the best picture by making some very slight adjustments at the DVD player. Finally, the Denon is fairly quick to respond to commands. The Toshiba was maddening to try to use (hea ... I don't have all minuite to wait!!). So, for $70 more, I'm going to stick to the Denon 1910 and for anyone looking for a $200-$300 DVD player to do while we awaite HD-DVD .. I'd recommend it. Ang PS I'll also post this on under DVD players. |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 92 Registered: Apr-04 | Angelo and mosspa- thanks for the tips. Tho I am limited in my width maybe 3-4 feet between speakers, at least I have more knowledge concerning placement now. |
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ELH Unregistered guest | Angelo, Thanks for the comparison... Do you have any way to compare the PQ of the Denon or Toshiba (both non-interlaced (progressive) at the DVD player) versus a DVD player that relies on the de-interlacer and up-conversion that is in the JVC DILA? Thanks, Ed |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 38 Registered: Nov-04 | There seems to be an issue with chromatic abberation on the JVC as discussed on the AVSforum. Any comments on this? RE: "But, it's probably not convergence... It's probably chromatic abberation..." "I think you are right based on the color change I see on edges. Regardless, it's not acceptable. I will either exchange for Sony GWIV or perhaps the 55" Mits DLP. My old eyes do not see rainbows." |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 28 Registered: Nov-04 | ELH, >> Do you have any way to compare the PQ of the Denon or Toshiba (both non-interlaced (progressive) at the DVD player) versus a DVD player that relies on the de-interlacer and up-conversion that is in the JVC DILA? I tried this one way .. I connected the Denon to the JVC both thru the component and (DVI is the only upconverted output). I liked the Denon Faroudja result better. I guess I could try setting the Denon to output 480p or 480i thru the DVI/HDMI and see how the JVC handles that too. I'll try it tonight and let you know. Ang |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 29 Registered: Nov-04 | Service Menu? Does anyone here now how to get into the service menu for ind. color tweeking? Ang |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 282 Registered: Sep-04 | Malcolm- IS your D-TV tuner an HD tuner? If it is you should be able to use it for OTA HD. You would need an HD antenna, and run it to the HD tuner. I personally have the Terk 55 antenna in my attic. I run the cable to my Motorola 5100 HD tuner so I can watch CBS in HD (mainly NFL). Most the time I just run my "Comcast cable" into the tuner and watch their HD programming. I switch the hookups back and forth as needed. You should be able to do the same. There might be good information in the HD broadcasting threads. To access the service menu: - Make sure the switches on the remote are set to TV and VCR - Press the sleep timer button on the remote - Press the display and video status buttons at the same time. Make sure you press display and v-stat before the sleep timer disappears off the screen. If done properly it will list 3 rows of items in white letters in the upper left. I wouldn't recommend messing with anything unless you know what your doing. |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 31 Registered: Nov-04 | Mr. L, >> I wouldn't recommend messing with anything unless you know what your doing. Who .. me? Never .. just want to take a little taste <g> Ang |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 283 Registered: Sep-04 | Ang- That's my general disclaimer  . I don't want people saying "hey, my sets messed up!!". I think your a lot like me. Just want to mess around a bit. I get my service manual today, so hopefully it breaks down the service menu. I'll post what I find out tonight. "I don't know what happened, I turned on the TV and it looked like this". That was practice for when when I screw the picture up real bad and need it fixed. |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 32 Registered: Nov-04 | Mr. L, >> I get my service manual today, so hopefully it breaks down the service menu. I'll post what I find out tonight. Sounds great. Thanks Ang |
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Malcolm Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, you are a wealth of knowledge! When I buy, it will be the HD-tuner. Thanks for your helpful response M |
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Bronze Member Username: GrendonMiramar, FL USA Post Number: 20 Registered: Nov-04 | As all us JVC owners have come to realize there is only 1 HDMI port on the TV. The question is what to use it for? The Toshiba SP5960 HDMI or the Voom HD signal thru DVI-HDMI converter ? What results and suggestions those the group have?  1)DVI (Digital Video Interface) 2)HD Component Video 3)S-Video 4)Composite Video 5)RF Coaxial |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 284 Registered: Sep-04 | Gus- I'd ignore 3,4,5 on the voom box. If you have the Tosh sd5970, hook that up to the HDMI, and the voom to component. I'd also try out Voom with a DVI to HDMI cable and see if the picture is any better. |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 33 Registered: Nov-04 | Gus, That's funny you just asked that as I just posted the following under the title DVI vs HDMI thread. ----- Let me offer this scenario ..... You have HD Cable/Sat with DVI/HDMI out. You have a HDTV with DVI/HDMI in (only one) You also have a DVD player (DVI/HDMI/component out). You have a AV Receiver with optical audio in (probably more than one). I've thought quite a bit about how best to hook this all up to get the best picture, and here's what I've come up with .... Q#1) Does your DVD player have a HQ upconversion like the Denon's or is the upconverter in your TV better? Ans#1)Yes .. DVD has HQ upconverter? I have the Denon 1910 and have found the Faroudja upconverter better in it than in my JVC 52" DILA set. The Faroudja upconvertion is only available out the DVI port tough. Therefore, I'll use my only HDMI TV input for DVD viewing. Since the HD signal will be already "HD scaled" out of the cable/sat box, then HQ component cables will do a very fine job transmitting the images to the TV. Ans #2)No - DVD isn't as good? If you don't have a HQ upconverting DVD player, then you might descide to use the DVI/HDMI connection for the Cable/Sat and use component for the DVD player .. as you'll be relying on the TV's upconverter anyways. >> Audio Use optical ports 1st, coax digital secong, analog last. Ang |
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RS Unregistered guest | Thank you to everyone on this thread for all your info, it has been very helpful.I am getting ready to purchase the hd-52Z575.The prices i have found online have been pretty good, but i am scared to purchase online. Could I please get some recommendations on some reputable online dealers? thank you RS |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | I had a very good experience with |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 93 Registered: Apr-04 | Mr Lynch- Not sure if it's been mentioned here, but I've read about an HMDI fix for the JVC-what's the info on that? |
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tvshopper Unregistered guest | That was for a specific DVR (Tivo-type) unit. |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 34 Registered: Nov-04 | mosspa, DTS vs Dolby Digital 5.1 On my AV receiver (HK AVR 510) the DTS decoder doesn't have any delay settings for the speakers .. but the DD 5.1 does. Is there any reason that I should choose DTS over DD 5.1 when I have the options? Thanks Ang |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 285 Registered: Sep-04 | Rick- JVC has a fix for sets than have HDMI issues. I guess it is a simple fix and only takes about 10 minutes. Some sets just need new firmware, others neeed the board replaced. Either way it is a very easy proceedure for the service tech. I don't get audio though my HDMI, but since I use a receiver I've been putting off the fix. Ang- DTS has a larger bandwidth, so many audiophiles will chose it over DD when available. I guess it sounds slightly fuller and "better". I'm not picky enough to tell the difference. |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 40 Registered: Nov-04 | Service menu?  |
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docjj Unregistered guest | Steve Johannson - Thanks for the 941 info. How much and where did you get it? I heard from Mr. Lynch that the 841 using DVI with DVI to HDMI cable is problematic. I am glad to hear that 941 HDMI to HDMI looks good. I have 841 now and am going to return it to get the 941. Thanks! |
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Unregistered guest | Angelo: For movies that have both DD and dts soundtracks (e.g., Shrek 2). I don't hear any differences between the formats that are worth mentioning. I have one senior tech, though, who keeps telling me that he thinks dts is superior. I don't hear what he hears, apparently, but he is 35 and I'm 50 (although, some people claim I have "golden ears" when it comes to audio mixing :-) ). As I said, I am kind of new to this surround sound game. Also, anything I say is in sole reference to my system. However, I have seen it stated in several places (when I was trying to find out what the 14 billion surround sound decoders the Denon apparently has were all about) that, any differences touted as making one format "better" than the other are mostly a matter of hype. Depending on how your listening enviornment is configured, I would guess that the delay parameters might be more important than any "quality" diferences that may or may not exist between DD and dts. I don't have much experience with HK receivers, but on the Denon switching between the decoders is only a matter of pushing a button on the remote. If the HK is as easy to change, why don't you play with both of them (Shrek 2 is as good a disk as you might want to use because of the music soundtrack and the rich assortment of audio effects) and decide which one you like better. Maybe you won't hear a difference or maybe you will prefer one over the other for some soundtracks but not necessarily for others. My best guess is that this is probably a matter of personal taste, and after it is all over, you are the one that has to be satisfied with what you are hearing. Hope this was some help. Moss |
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Bronze Member Username: GrendonMiramar, FL USA Post Number: 21 Registered: Nov-04 | Mr Lynch & Angelo Thanks, will try your suggestions. Gus |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 35 Registered: Nov-04 | ELH, >> guess I could try setting the Denon to output 480p or 480i thru the DVI/HDMI and see how the JVC handles that too. OK .. the Denon 1910 can't output 480i out the DVI connection, but I was able to switch between sending it 480p, 720p, 1080i. -1080i - immediatley obviously more blurry so I didn't bother playing with it. - 480p on DVI - (JVC upconverting to 720p) The picture was pretty clear, but not as smooth as the 720p. This was noticed on the Finding Nemo menu screen. To the right of the text, the color banding in the blue water was a little more pronounced. Also on the THX setup menu, the white text was muddled with grey splotches and a slightly under aliased .. where on 720p out of the Denon . it was pure white and nicely aliased. A stange thing though .. when sending 480p out DVI, I was unable to effect the tint using the tint menu. The slider would move, but the tint wouldn't change (auto gamma off, color off). This made it difficult to compare the final picture quality as I couldn't adjust hue's in 480p. 720p tweeking - Later that evening, I descided I'd use the TXH for contrast and brightness, but color I needed black and white people on the screen .. as large as possible. I found out a long time ago that nothing is better to adjust color and tint than black and white skin. If you can get them both looking realistic at the same time .. you'll have a very good color balance and level as black skin will go cartoony very quickly if the color is too high and have either an unnatural red or green hue if the tint it off. I just so happen to have rented "Mystery Men" which has several scenes where the characters are full face, full screen. "The Shoveler"s wife is black and there is a scene in their kitchen where it alternates between extreeme closeups ... Perfect. Also later, Ben Stiller and his boss at the junk yard have another alternating close-up scene. I didn't write down the settings, I'll try to do that tonight and post, but what I ended up with was something along the lines of ... Tint -7 Color - 6 Picture +8 Bright +10 Also, I had an opportunity to really explore the dynamic gamma setting and have a good idea what it's doing. In any scene that has a mix of dark areas and lighter areas, it brightens the picture to the detrement of dark detail. On one of the closeups of the shoveler, with Dynamic Gamma on, I lost the detail in his raw-hide leather vest. As it turns out, the Denon 1910 has a gamma setting. I was able to get a very nice grey distribution by adjusting that +2 our of +/-10. So, I guess I'm back to suggesting using 720p if you have the 1910 for excellent upscaling and also the gamma correction. If you have the Toshiba or Sammy, then maybe play with it yourselves .. also see if the Tint function works for you when sending 480p in DVI/HDMI .. as it wouldn't adjust for me. Ang |
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ELH Unregistered guest | Angelo... Many thanks... Ed |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 94 Registered: Apr-04 | mosspa-angelo- Here's some DTS vs DD info "DTS is clearly superior, technically speaking. It has a much greater bitrate than DD, which means less lossy compression. DTS also has the only 'true'--meaning 7 fully discrete channels--6.1 surround mode still, and has some very nice matrixing modes like neo:6, etc. " and a break down pro-con of the two- http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/specsformats/dts_vs_dolbydigital.php |
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acex2 Unregistered guest | Looking at the back of the Z795, (from the JVC site) it shows only 1 connection for a VHF/UHF cable input, how can this be? Shouldn't there be 2, 1 for the OTH (ATSC) and 1 for cable-QAM. This set will have a built in QAM tuner right? Maybe its not the correct picture. Anybody know.. Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 287 Registered: Sep-04 | acex2- Where did you see pix of the z795 on the JVC site? I cannot find it. I only see the 575/585. |
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Anonymous | Does the Z575 have a DVI connection??? I just purchased such TV and am awaiting Pickup tomorrow. But after lookin the JVC web site and the above mentioned screens shots the only hook up I seen was the HDMI and component. Now I have Directv coming saturday for the HD set up and I think the only port the Hughes reciever will have is DVI!! I could be mistaken on that. Do I need the HDMI cable instead. If soo I need to know By tomorrow before I pick up my tv!! Any input will be great!!! |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 288 Registered: Sep-04 | You will need a DVI to HDMI cable. Try to avoid the Monster cable version. It runs over $100, and you can find very good quality for much less. |
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New owner Unregistered guest | Any recomendations cause I am in an area who only have Circuit City and Best Buy close. Would Radio Shack carry one?? |
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acex2 Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch Thanks for the reply. I went here, http://www.jvc.com/Presentations/HDILA/z795.html Then choose the "Big Picture" tab. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 289 Registered: Sep-04 | The picture of the connections is of the 575/585. I'm not sure what the back of the 795 will look like. You can email JVC and they should be able to answer that for you. They usually respond within minutes. John Rasa (with JVC) is usually really helpful. New Owner- I know Best Buy and Curcuit City carry a couple different brands. Radio shack has 1 cable, but it also runs $100. If you can wait, just use component for now and shop online. You can find a good cable for well under $50. |
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New owner Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch Thanks for the input. I am sure you have answered this 1,000 times but can you tell a noticable difference between the component and HDMI cables. I downloaded your TV settings templates you posted and will try them out. |
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Unregistered guest | All: I went to the audioholics URL and read the article there by Gene DellaSala. I know Gene through phone and e-mail correspondence, and I will become a regular contributor to Audioholics as soon as I complete the move to Florida. Gene has very good ears and I generally trust his judgement on things. However, I was a little surprised that the article he wrote on DD vs dts was based on subjective opinion and the theoretical effect of increasing bandwidth on the perception of audio quality. Generally, when he approaches things for the magazine, he includes objective measurements to support his opinions. While what is in the article is true, I still think that perception of differences between the formats will still be largely a matter of taste. I have done a controlled experiment (at a university) that demonstrated that college students (including a reasonable sample of music majors) could not discern quality differences between high-quality VBR MP3s and the CD audio tracks from which they were made, in real-world comparative listening tests. These measuremnents were done using CDs of music supplied by each individual student, with which they had a great deal of familiarity. Not to belabor the point, but I doubt that there would be any reason that these results would not extend to the DD vs dts issue. The real take home message is ... What sounds good to the listener is a matter of personal opinion, no matter what the technical specs or presumptions based on them say. Moss |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 290 Registered: Sep-04 | new owner- I personally saw no difference between the component and the DVI output on my motorola 5100. So I use the HDMI for my DVD, and component for the cable box. I do use a DVI to HDMI cable for PC hookup though. I got much better results than with the component adapter. Try out every option and go with what looks best to you. |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 95 Registered: Apr-04 | mosspa- Yea there is much debate over which is better DD or DTS. I haven't found any concrete statements supporting either as better. Just wanted to point out what I've found. I'd also suppose that it depends somewhat on your receiver and speakers, etc. With some radio shack setups, you won't be able to tell much I'm sure. |
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New member Username: N7tbPost Number: 2 Registered: Nov-04 | Please pardon this question, it is probably back in the archives somewhere, but I know that the D-ILA system uses three independent color generators. Does that mean that there are three bulbs to replace instead of one as is the case with the DLP? My son-in-law was at a Best Buy in the tri-cities area of Eastern Washington and the guy told him that every several years three bulbs need to be replaced and that after the JVC is no longer in production, the bulbs could cost as much as $900 each so that it would be less expensive to buy a new HDTV than to get new bulbs. That sounds pretty strange to me. What do you all think? |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 42 Registered: Nov-04 | Bulbs last x about of hours depending on use. I 'think' the avg life is well over 4000 hours. Bulbs are around $200 (give or take) and 'should' go down in price I would think over time. The bulbs are fairly standard I beleive between sets. The JVC uses one bulb. |
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Bronze Member Username: CondorPost Number: 29 Registered: Oct-04 | Regarding the bulbs and Best Buy, it's obvious another manufacturer has a good dealer promo going. That Best Buy "guy" has a good future in used car sales if he was able to say that with a straight face. |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 36 Registered: Nov-04 | Terry, 1st regarding the knowledge at Best Buy. By reading this tread, you'll have 2x the knowledge about DLP, LCD and LCOS than 90% of the employees at BB, CC or Sears. I can't tell you how many times I was standing there and heard one of these people tell another customer (or try to tell me) something with complete confidence that was 100% incorrect. The JVC's have 3 chips and 1 bulb. Warning comes on after 4500 hours, but the bulb should be good closer to 6000 assuming you've talked to it nicely and brought it flowers from time to time so that it knows you're not taking it for granted. <g> Ang |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 96 Registered: Apr-04 | Terry- JVC has only bulb, like most RP displays but the JVC uses 3 COLOR CHIPS. Why makes this minimum wage expert assume the JVC will be out of production in several years? And, to my knowledge, they all use the same bulb. I could be wrong on that, but I'd be surprised if they all use different bulbs. |
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Strati Unregistered guest | Angelo, My thoughts exactly. You feel so much more knowledgeable going into BB and especially Sears, that it's almost insulting when they ask you "Can I help you?" If I knew this much going into University (years ago) I would have been on a scholarship! |
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New member Username: Jpob69Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-04 | Re: DTS vs. DD formats. "Hearing" is believing! I can difinitely hear the differnces between the two formats on my system - two good illustrations: "Saving Private Ryan" & "Hell Freezes Over" by The Eagles. I hear much more clearity and "better directional sound with DTS. My audio system is more or less average for HT:it is a 5.1 format with a B&K 212 (upgraded 202 receiver) supported with all RBH speakers: 3 661-SEs in the front, 2 MC6s in the back and a TS12 for the sub. The source DVD player is (please guys don't laugh) is an old Pioneer 414- hey it works great with my old analog TV. Nothing great about this equipment and I can hear the diference. Jim |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 291 Registered: Sep-04 | I finally got to dig into the JVC service manual. It is fairly complex and technical, but does have some good info on the "Service Menu" settings. It breaks them down pretty good into easy to follow terms. I can post it if anyone is interested. I also have a extremely detailed parts list if anyone is interested. It covers every part down to the screws. |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 97 Registered: Apr-04 | Mr Lynch- Yes, please post it all. I can't wait till I get my JVC, I'll be coming back here for all the info, settings and SM tips. Tho, I may not be brave enough to do the SM right away, it will be nice if it's here permanently for everyone. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 292 Registered: Sep-04 | I tried to post the service manual but it is too large. If your interested in a copy of it you can send me a private message or post your email. It is full of a lot of intersting info. Even if you don't plan on messing with any settings, it is still a good read. I'll try posting the parts list later tonight. It is a lot smaller and might fit on the site. The one part number I do know is for the bulb/lamp. PN# TS-CL110UAA |
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filmoore Unregistered guest | I am about to "take the plunge" and purchase my big screen. Thanks for all the helpful info I have found in this thread. I think now I have been convinced that the jvc is the way to go. Does anyone know anything about HDTVTime.com? They seem to have really good prices...But have never found any ratings, etc. Any help appreciated! |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 293 Registered: Sep-04 | If your buying online, you might want to checkout They have some incredible prices and I've heard good things about them. I believe they have the 52" for about $2400. |
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filmoore Unregistered guest | Mr. Lynch, If you pull up productswanted.com you will find the only two merchants listed on the site are pac2000 and HDTVtime. I was hoping someone might have info on HDTVtime. (They are located near Atlanta, Ga. I am in North Carolina.) Shipping might be a lot closer? HDTVtime price is 2399.00 plus shipping. Thanks for all of your insight into the jvc! |
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New member Username: Jpob69Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-04 | FYI The JVC built 921 HD satellite receiver with PVR is now available through Dishnetwork for $549 (plus a programming commitment - you can probably get it even cheaper with a longer programming commitment). It sounds like a good deal when the 921 units were selling only retail price was $999. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 294 Registered: Sep-04 | filmoore- Atlanta might be a bit closer than Seattle for you. At that price it might be worth giving it a shot. I'd make sure the model was atleast an August or later model before ordering. A Oct or Nov set would be even better. |
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Bronze Member Username: RacingtoysPost Number: 11 Registered: Dec-04 | Did any of you guys go to the Sears sale and get the price matched and 10% of the difference plus another 10% off of the matched price?? Im thinking of returning my tv to bestbuy and getting it from Sears this Saturday since they said they have that sale again from 7 to 10. |
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Bronze Member Username: GrendonMiramar, FL USA Post Number: 22 Registered: Nov-04 | CW, I tried that but the salesperson (if you can call him that) at Sears told me they only carry the 52Z575 no 61Z575 and none of the 585 models. Gus |
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Bronze Member Username: RacingtoysPost Number: 12 Registered: Dec-04 | I think im going to do that, I just called up my local sears and they said they will price match and give the 10% so that brings my total to $2,475.01 before taxes since I have my reciept from bestbuy showing $2,800 before taxes. |
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Bronze Member Username: RlschneckPost Number: 62 Registered: Apr-04 | This really is a great thread. Question for angelo guarino: When you say that you can improve the black-on-gray contrast by turning the "autos" off and tweaking all of the settings, do you mean the service menu settings or just the regular settings, e.g. brightness, contrast, etc.? And would it be enough to just turn all of the "autos" off then run either an Avia disc or a DVE disc? Or am I confused as to what those types of setup discs actually do? Question for Mr. Lynch or anyone else: Was the question of using an upconverting DVD player versus a non-upconverting DVD player and just letting the TV do the upconverting, AND which produces better results... yeah, that question... was it ever resolved? I've been reading this entire thread over the span of the last 3 or 4 days, and it's all starting to get a little blurry to be honest. Did you guys ever come to a conclusion about that. My guess would be that you would want an upconverting DVD player, because I'm not sure the TV itself really upconverts, rather than just crudely forces input into the 720p format since that is the native resolution of the display... What do you think? Comments for Jim: Nice setup! I have the H/K AVR330 and I really like it. But, I especially love the duck that roosts on your sub... hahahaha! Doesn't that thing rattle and fall off when you play anything loud with a lot of bass!? (By the way, I'm not making fun of your duck. I just have a strange sense of humor and find it funny) Comments for Gus: WOW! That is a huge, honkin' center channel!! It looks like you really have the mother of all home theaters there. What is the rest of your speaker system made up of? I am envious! Keep up the good conversation! I really enjoy reading all of your comments and recommendations! Sincere thanks to all who have contributed, Ryan |
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Bronze Member Username: CondorPost Number: 30 Registered: Oct-04 | They will price match the 2800 and give you 10% of the difference between Sears reg price of 3499 and 2800. That brings the total down to 2730. Now take 10% off that and you will get the 52" for $2457 + tax and local delivery (cheap about 50 bucks) Great Deal!!!! |
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Bronze Member Username: Kid_redPost Number: 98 Registered: Apr-04 | CW- what's the sale you speak of? Haven't seen that and it's not mentioned on their site. 10% off everything this Saturday? 7am-10pm? |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 43 Registered: Nov-04 | Were having the Sears 10% off everything sale this Sat too. Do you think they'll match internet prices such as those found at |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 44 Registered: Nov-04 | Make that |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 295 Registered: Sep-04 | R Schneck- You don't need to go into the service menu. Adjusting with DVE or AVIA and turning off the so called "enhancements" will produce an excellent picture. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 296 Registered: Sep-04 | R Schneck- You don't need to go into the service menu. Adjusting with DVE or AVIA and turning off the so called "enhancements" will produce an excellent picture. The color correction and gamma and other settings add a lot of artificalness (is that a word?)to the picture. |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 45 Registered: Nov-04 | Mr. Lynch did you get my email regarding the service manual? |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 297 Registered: Sep-04 | Dave- I probably did, but they go to my work email. I can respond to you in the morning. The parts list is also too big to upload, so if anyone is interested in it let me know. Like the service manual, it is in PDF form. |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 46 Registered: Nov-04 | Thanks! Going to Sears tomorrow to test the waters for pricing. My Mitsu is gone Sat! |
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New member Username: SailbytePost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | I have been monitoring this site for some time and appreciate all of the good information here. Like many of you, I have been on the fence about getting the 52z575 (would prefer 585 but can't find it anywhere). I have had good luck with JVC and, in fact, my current setup is all JVC components linked with compulink -- which I really like -- insert DVD and everything turns on to the correct setting to watch DVD. I currently have a 35" CRT, which is one reason I am not in a big rush -- although I would like a new toy :-) Several items of interest: I checked the pac-2000.com site and determined that the 52z575 is $2555 with "white glove" shipping to Maryland. HDTVTIME is only about $20 cheaper. I also stumbled across a recent 11.24.04 very bad review of the 61z575 by PC Magazine (http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,1759,1729309,00.asp) -- they put the JVC at the bottom of the heap of all the sets that they have reviewed (Samsung rates their #4 slot). I would be curious as to your comments on this review. Finally, I too haven't seen anything about this Sears 10% off deal in the Maryland area. Anybody in Maryland aware of this? Again, thanks to all for the great info. |
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New member Username: StanjordanPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | I thought that I would add my JVC D-ILA experiences to this thread. I purchased the JVC HD-52Z585 in August at Brandsmart USA. Originally, I had intended to purchase the Samsung HLP (HD3) model when it came out this last summer. But at the last minute my wife spotted the JVC and noticed how much brighter and vibrant the picture was compared to the Samsung. I looked at the 2 TV's side-by-side and thought the JVC had a brighter picture and a sharper image. One of the things I noticed was that the lettering on a policeman's badge was more readable on the JVC than on the Samsung. I love the HD picture on this TV. Even the SD pictures look pretty good. Now some of the complaints. The fan is very noisy. It bothers my wife more than me (I guess my hearing is not as good -- too many Who concerts in my younger days). I asked her if she wanted to return the TV. She said NO! I have discovered 3 problems that required repair service. The "green glow" on the left side of a dark/no picture image; the component video stopped working on one of the TV inputs; and I get no sound out of the TV speaker when I try to use it as the center channel on my surround sound system. JVC service was very responsive in addressing these issues. Repair service was promptly scheduled, with Lakes Electronics in Ft Lauderdale. They replace the light engine for the first problem and a circuit board for the second. They picked up the TV last Monday and took it into their shop. I was a little disappointed that they didn't do the service in house, but they said that replacing the light engine is a major overhaul of the set. The set was returned 1 week later. I really missed it while it was gone. All 3 problems have been corrected. Initially when the set was returned to me the digital input was now not working. Lakes Electronics returned 2 days later with some kind of remote control, pushed a few buttons and all of a sudden the Digital Input was working again. My wife thinks that the picture looks even better than before. I think I agree. I don't know if its due to the new Light Engine or Lakes did some specific calibrations. I have now purchased an extended warranty for this TV because of the initial JVC quality concerns. I sill love the HD picture quality of this TV! But overall quality has me very concerned. The manufactured date on the TV is June. Maybe this explains the quality issues. BTY I really like this thread. Thanks to all that have contributed. |
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Bronze Member Username: CondorPost Number: 31 Registered: Oct-04 | Stan Jordan If you are running a decent surround sound system, try a seperate center channel speaker. It makes a huge difference over the TV speaker. To all regarding Sears 10% off this saturday. They don't always publish this where you may see it. Call your local store and ask! If someone here saw it, well, it must be. The salespeople at Sears do have advance notice. They have a binder with the upcoming sales. I would recommend getting a local store to give you their best price in writing on a business card for example, should be no more than 2800. Then go to Sears with your "proof". They could refuse to match a web price from an online store, local storefront is better. |
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Bronze Member Username: RacingtoysPost Number: 13 Registered: Dec-04 | Jim Oh i thought it was 3299.99, I went off from the Sears website, never did check the price in the store. Im going to try get free delievery since on the best buy reciept it says free delievery...well they charged me $0.01, I will also get the 3 year warranty for $399 from Sears (one year LESS than best buy for the same price), and pick up the Sears card so I can get 0% for 2 years. |
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Bronze Member Username: RacingtoysPost Number: 14 Registered: Dec-04 | I was just wondering, to those who bought the extended warrenty, what are you planning on doing when the warrenty is about to expire?? Like are you going to make sure that you get at least 1 bulb replacment?...maybe 2? |
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New member Username: Glo_boPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | All, I have been reading the forums and I am a member of avs. After studying this all for months I finally purchased the 585 and just plugged it in. No hd yet but ST TV looks very acceptable just using a comcast regular feed. The price was right local store for $2650. I have a November build and checked for all the issues that have been written in the forums I don't see any of the chromatic abberation or any other issues this set is coolness. |
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New member Username: MosspaDayton, OH USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | CW: I realize that I might be becoming jaded, but I am beginning to se a pattern in my TV purchasing habits. Similarly to the way I have religously replaced my main computer system about every 3 years, I have replaced my main TV monitor at about the same frequency. Therefore, I am planning to replace my main TV monitor about every 3 years, at least until the improvements in technology stabilize as HDTV becomes the norm. While this may seem absurd at first, there is a strong parallel to the computer environment. My first Pentium system, about 12 years ago, cost me about $3200. The ultra mega 64-bit system I just finished puting together cost me about $2200 and is about 10 orders of magnitude more powerful than the old system. Between those systems was a Pentium 3 350MHz system and a P4 2.8GHz system. To get back on track with the thread. I have decided that 2 years over the manufacturer's warranty is probably about right. For the JVC that would be 3 years. As I see the trends in electronics, 3 years from now one should be able to purchase a substantially more powerful video monitor for much less than what we are paying for the JVC now. To a great extent, those of us who have, or will have, purchased the D-ILA set are really early adopters of this technology. Hell, one could make the argument that any purchaser of digital HD TVs are early adopters. Anyway, unless you probably shouldn't be spending this much money for a TV set anyway (after all, the kids have to eat), I see no rational reason not to plan to upgrade every 3 years or so. I think the "old school" model of "keep the TV until the tube goes out" has been replaced with a more disposable model due to the advances of technology. For what it's worth, Moss |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 37 Registered: Nov-04 | Ryan, >> When you say that you can improve the black-on-gray contrast by turning the "autos" off and tweaking all of the settings, do you mean the service menu settings or just the regular settings, e.g. brightness, contrast, etc.? I was saying just the standard menu settings. Also realize that these comments were made for upscaling DVD images. (NBCHD is amazing. I really didn't want to see that much of Jay Leno <g>.) Also, I said I was able to do some static Gamma compensation thru the controls on my DVD player (Denon 1910) and I thought that helped create a smoother gray ramp. The only time I saw some benefit from having dynamic gamma on was when looking at a scene that was ALL dark. If there are bright areas at all, it stomps on the dark detail. Ang |
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New member Username: DavidmMiami, FL Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | I appreciate all the info on this thread. After viewing for weeks, I finally bought the 61" JVC. It got delivered today and to my dissappointment, the manufacture date was July. I have read that the TVs made after Sept. were less problematic. Can anyone tell me exaxtly what to look or test for to see if I have one of those defective models. I bought it at BB because if I didn't like the TV, they are really easy to work with. Probably paid a bit more ($3,499) than I could have. |
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Bronze Member Username: RlschneckPost Number: 63 Registered: Apr-04 | Can you tell what month build the TV is before you purchase it? and if so how? Otherwise, once it is delivered you just check the model number right? 15 for October and 16 for November, or something like that???? Thanks, Ryan |
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Bronze Member Username: DmakoPost Number: 47 Registered: Nov-04 | Yes subtract 5 from the first 2 digits for month, next 2 for year. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 298 Registered: Sep-04 | David M.- Give it about 2 weeks to "break-in" your set. Then look at the TV with an all black screen (select an unused input) and look for a greenish glow in one of the corners. Usually the top left is the area that has the problem. It is an issue that was mainly in June and earlier sets, but it did carry over is a few July and August sets. I think $3500 for the 61" is not bad at all. I know people that paid that for the 52". Stan- I got your request for the service manual but the emails keep coming back. I tried .net and .com. Everyone- To figure out the manufacture date, look at the 8 digit serial number. Take the first 2 digits and subtract 5, then look at the third digit and also subtract 5. This will give you the month and year of Mfr. For example: 15965044 would be a Oct 04 model. 14932405 would be a Sept. 04 model. |
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Bronze Member Username: AngelogPost Number: 38 Registered: Nov-04 | Ryan, >> Was the question of using an upconverting DVD player versus a non-upconverting DVD player and just letting the TV do the upconverting, AND which produces better results... yeah, that question... was it ever resolved? I posted my limited test results. I felt that the upconverter in the JVC was about as good as the Toshiba 5970 (qualitatively speaking). I felt that the Denon 1910 was slightly better than both (noticeable by a nut like me ... but not to anyone who wasn't looking critically). |
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New member Username: SoitgosPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | Mr. Lynch and others. I'm also a newbe to this thread although I have been reading it for 3 weeks now. I need a question answered first of all. I bought a Samsung 841 for my son to use on a SD TV and need to know if there are any issues that I should know about on this unit. Will it work ok for this type of application or is jit ust all around a bad unit. It was an open box item at BB for $99. If it is not used on a HD TV will it do OK. I did find last night the Toshiba SD5970 on line for $148 shipped to my door. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php/masterid=4127595/zip_code=61704// fd=1 the lowest price was from buydig.com. Should I keep the 841 since it is not being used in an HD system or go for the Toshiba and return the 841. I was looking at the Philips LCOS system at the Bose factory store and almost bought it but just backed off the do some checking around at other systems when I ran across this thread and have come to the conclusion that the HD52z585 is the best choice out there but just can't jump yet because of the lack of programming. I use Direct TV now and want to go up to the HD TIVO when the price finally falls like it did with the Dishnetwork TIVO. Thanks for all the valuable info. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 299 Registered: Sep-04 | James- Checkout the DVD player forum, there is a lot of posts on the 841. I personally took mine back because it kept resetting its settings, and the DVI out had poor black levels. It is no fun to have to hook up the component cables, turn on the DVI, then switch cables every few days. I bought the Toshiba instead. Since you already have the 841 try it out you might like it, but there is a reason BB has a ton of "open box" 841s. It comes down to how picky you are. All the Philips LCoS sets are discontinued, so you should find them real cheap. The Fry's here in Seattle has the 55" 55PL977S for $1499. Since it is a single chip/color wheel system you get rainbows just like DLP. |
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New member Username: SoitgosPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-04 | Mr. Lynch If it was only used on a standard tv would it have issues then. My son does not have HD tv. Jim |
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New member Username: SailbytePost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-04 | I just called JVC and learned that if you buy the TV from an "unauthorized" internet site, they do not honor the warrenty. Authorized sites are listed on their find dealer page. I specifically asked about pac-2000.com ($2550 delivered) and pcmall.com ($2599.99 delivered) -- and was told that the warrenty is not valid if purchased from those sites. The JVC customer service guy strongly recommended I get it from an authorized dealer. For all of you that have had repairs, did you get the set from a brick & mortar store or on the net? |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 300 Registered: Sep-04 | James- The only problems with the 841 all have to do with the DVI out. If you use s-video, component or composite it is a great player. |
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New member Username: DougaPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | I certainly hope that the warranty is still valid no matter where you purchase it. Many large companies sell JVC products and may not be authorized (i.e. Buy.com). Do they even ask to see your receipt when they come out to fix it? I would guess not. Have any of you out there that ordered from PAC-2000 received your orders yet? What was the build date? |
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enflux75 Unregistered guest | Hi I just found this forum on a google search about the JVC D-ILA sets. I'm a regular over at AVSforum.com. You guys seem to know a lot about the JVC's. I have suffered from the green glow problem and had my light engine replaced once. I have several threads on the subject going over on AVS and have spoken at length to JVC headquarters here in NJ. I have all my screenshots documented at this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=461086 I was wondering if anyone could take a look and comment. Thanks |
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enflux75 Unregistered guest | Hi I just found this forum on a google search about the JVC D-ILA sets. I'm a regular over at AVSforum.com. I have owned a JVC HD-52Z575 since August of this year. You guys seem to know a lot about the JVC's. I have suffered from the green glow problem and had my light engine replaced once on 10-20-04. I have several threads on the subject going over on AVS and have spoken at length to JVC headquarters here in NJ. Even after the replacement I still have the green glow somewhat on the right hand side of the screen. And some red glow just left of the middle of the screen I have all my screenshots documented at this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=461086 I was wondering if anyone could take a look and comment. Has anyone had this problem remedied by an ISF calibration? Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: Mr_lynchSeattle, WA Post Number: 301 Registered: Sep-04 | enflux75- I've seen your screen shots before. You did a nice job documenting everything. I check out AVS every now and then and I'm very familar with the issue. To me the green glow issue seems to be fairly common with the pre-August models. I have an August set, and I have seen it with my TV. It seems to come and go. I haven't figured out if it shows up after long continous use, or when the set is "cold". I have never noticed it when watch TV or movies. On my set it is not a constant thing, and when I have seen it, it is very faint. The wife doesn't notice it and thinks I'm crazy. A few others have post pix about the issue and it seems to have been resolved after they got a "repair". I have the JVC service Manual thats shows how to adjust the convergence and many other things. If your interested in a copy let me know. It covers everything about the TV. |
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New member Username: Enflux75Princeton, NJ Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | Thanks for the reply Mr. Lynch, and sorry for the double post. My browser flaked out a little bit and I didn't know the message posted. I decided to add a little the second time anyway! Anyway, I notice it the most after the set has been warmed up for at least 1/2 hour. I can now "swamp out" the effect somewhat by cranking up the brightness. This didn't work with the old light engine. I'm working on JVC for another replacement. Can you all see the glow I'm talking about? Even after the light engine replacement? |
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