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Samsung HL-P5685W wont turn on and whines

 

New member
Username: Jayshriver

Post Number: 2
Registered: Jan-09
O.K. , I replaced the color wheel, and the ballast and the guy I bought it from said he replaced the bulb. It worked for about three weeks and then started taking more power cycles to turn on. now it just whines from high pitch, slowly dropping in pitch and finally flashes the sevice triangle and bulb icon. Any ideas where to start? I thought power supply but repair guy said over the phone, light engine. When it was on the picture was perfect though. Heres a link to a video I took and put on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ag7Y3TVf9QQ&feature=player_profilepage
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15990
Registered: Jan-08
Hi Jay!

Is this happen on cold start up?

Be sure that all fans are clean of dust, try a new bulb before the replacement of the light engine, usually the light engine give bad color or distort picture and bad pixelation.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2119
Registered: Oct-07
J,
Is the 'whine' a highvoltage noise? If so, I'd look at the last thing in the ballast / lamp chain....the WIRES between the lamp and power supply. IF the connectors are oxidized / burned / discolored, it could be causing high resistance and preventing the lamp from starting properly

Also, look up what the flashing triangle / bulb service lamp means.
My neighbors have a Samsung DLP (fairly early model) which has 3 lamps in front and 'codes' listed in the manual.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2120
Registered: Oct-07
Start by making sure you are clean / dust free as plym suggests.

The triangle you refer to has 3 variants which will help figure out what the TV thinks the problem is. Fan? Lamp?

don't just change parts without trying to figure it out first.
 

New member
Username: Jayshriver

Post Number: 3
Registered: Jan-09
Sorry for not posting sooner guys, my messages have been going to spam folder. "plymouth", It is on cold start up. Progressively, after replacing the ballast and color wheel, it started turning on less and less until it finally just loops three times and gives the error on the control panel. fan is clear of dust and appears to be functioning properly. Heres a better video of what it does on initial start up attempt. Keep in mind new ballast and color wheel. supposedly new lamp. picture was perfect for the two months after i replaced the wheel and ballast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqZtcVU5VNI

and theres no way to test the lamp on its own, right? I have a multi-meter.
 

New member
Username: Jayshriver

Post Number: 4
Registered: Jan-09
O.K., here's the latest. The noise was coming from the color wheel I bought online. Can I test the voltage coming out of the DMD board with my multi meter? If so what pins do you think? Will I fry anything if I touch the wrong pins?
Here's the video titled sanding dlp color wheel (gotta love iphones spelling corrector"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6tnR_uwHsE
 

New member
Username: Jayshriver

Post Number: 5
Registered: Jan-09
Here's some pics of the DMD board that carries power to the color wheel.Upload
Upload
 

New member
Username: Jayshriver

Post Number: 6
Registered: Jan-09
Bump.
 

Gold Member
Username: Fyi

Dallas, Texas

Post Number: 1080
Registered: May-05
Yea...that's a color wheel whine. Sounds like you got a bad one.
 

Gold Member
Username: Magfan

USA

Post Number: 2229
Registered: Oct-07
IF you get your multimeter in there to test voltage to the color wheel, THAN manage to bridge a couple of those pins, you'll doubtless ZAP something and end up needing either a board level fix or simply a new board.

I'd suspect FYI is right about that noise......and you'll be into it for another color wheel......
Didn't they change to an air bearing?
 

New member
Username: Jimdangles

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jun-11
HI, COULD anybody please send me a service manual for and hlp5685w? i am attaching a picture, i have the same problem with that 6 cable cord on the dmd getting its white end cap connector yanked out ( mine is lost too, the white connector), so i guess i could solder the individuals wires (maybe a bad idea heat wise but i don't know the pinouts, ie which white cord goes where, the difference between a white cord with and whitout black text, etc....my dlp seems to start up and everything and the lamp is on the color wheel spinning, but no picture comes on....what does that connector on the dmd work for? it doesn';t seem to supply power to the color wheel, or does it? is that why there is no picture? i seemd to burn a lamp out....its as if something is blocking the light from the lamp before it can light up the screen...is this a physical obstruction, or a result of something not getting power on account of the broken connector on the dmd board? any help is greatly appreciated....are these tv's even worth the trouble anymore? aren't they only 720p and have contrast ratios and refresh rates that pale compared to even a $1,200 55 inch vizio from walmart (240hz, 500,000 contrast ration, 1080p?)
 

New member
Username: Marcopolo

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-13
Lets bring this back from the dead.

I have a very similar problem as the original op.

Took my Samsung HLR5687W apart and found my color wheel would take a few minutes to spin. The color wheel made the same whine as OP mentions in his posts.

I noticed that on my unit the bulb worked even though the color wheel did not spin, may or may not be an indication of whats wrong.

I witnessed the color wheel spin and the bulb working at the same time, yet the screen was black. Could this be a board issue.

Regards Marco.
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