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ManInNeed Unregistered guest | ok now i am enrolled into a Advanced woods class and i have to build a project...i was thinking of building a subwoofer box...the thing is, i know most boxes are built outta MDF, but i need to build this out of wood.....Meaning would it work to build this box out of White Oak.....i mean everything...ports...box..(bracing out of basswood which is very light)...i need to know because i have to have an idea of what im building by like 2 days and the sooner the better...i am going to make 2 boxes(which will be very nice since i have a whole semester to work on it)....WEIGHT IS NOT AN ISSUE.....EVEN IF ITS HEAVY THATS OK AS LONG AS SUBS WILL WORK IN AN ALL WOOD BOX...and i dont mean kinda work...i mean like they are supposed to, and sound like like they are supposed to....if this will work i have all the plans so that is not an issue please help a needy man....thank you |
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Silver Member Username: SouthernrebelLouisiana USA Post Number: 134 Registered: Mar-04 | well....they will work, but they wont sound as good. An MDF box will sound better than a wooden one, the acoustical properties of plywood and MDF are different. i have put subs in plywood boxes, but they dont sound as good as they would if they were in an MDF one... |
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Bronze Member Username: YoungbloodPost Number: 38 Registered: Aug-04 | What if i use internal dampening materials....so you wont get the boxy sound???? do you think that will help |
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Silver Member Username: Pat_lTucson, AZ USA Post Number: 520 Registered: Apr-04 | White Oak, thats pretty expensive wood, the last time i looked. I think it will work just fine. Thats a cool project too. Especally since its one that you will use for years on down the line. I bet other kids are build stools, HaHa. |
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Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 1476 Registered: May-04 | Use multi-ply marine grade Birch plywood, the best grade you can find, at least 3/4" thick. If you can't use Birch, make sure any plywood you use is NOT a hardwood(subject to changes of size with temperature and humidity). Also, the plywood HAS to be low void for strength purposes. Marine grade Birch plywood is the best plywood for sub enclosures, actually it's 3-4x stronger in tension and compression than MDF. The problem is resonance, MDF is the least resonant of enclosures, making it acoustically ideal, so use polyfill to cut down resonance, also consider covering the box with sound deadener to add some weight to the panels, that'll lower resonance. Since it's advanced woodworking, he'll want you to use more advanced methods of making joints. Make sure to NOT use butt joints, biscuits, or similar means of connecting walls. Use dado (rebate) grooves, it'll seal air much better and be stronger. And, of course, seal all edges with silicone(allow this to cure completely before installing the sub, if silicone isn't cured it can damage some subwoofer surrounds). |
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Bronze Member Username: YoungbloodPost Number: 39 Registered: Aug-04 | thanks.....i know about dados and things like that, so im good to go there....but can you buy that plywood you talked about at just any lumber yard?? |
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Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 1493 Registered: May-04 | Should be able to, Birch is pretty widespread. There are different types of Birch, Baltic is probably the most common. Just make sure whatever you get is low void and multi-ply marine grade. I've bought birch plywood from local building supplies, plus Lowes and Home Depot, you should be good to go. Of course every location is different, I wouldn't be sure if it's around where you live. I'm in Georgia, timber is all over the place around here. |
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Bronze Member Username: YoungbloodPost Number: 40 Registered: Aug-04 | well i live in minnesota so i got some wood around here myself.....another thing....this project has to have doors or drawers on it so i was wondering if i built the basic box then added like 4 inches to the height and put a wood-framed plexiglass door on top for an amplifier, with air holes for ventillation....do you think this would work or does it have to be out in the open completly to get proper ventillation |
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Silver Member Username: JmloughreyFarmington, CT Post Number: 260 Registered: Jul-04 | i'd say you should be good with the door thing, just make sure you.. A: Have a great way to fasten the doors down to keep vibration down B: Use atleast 1/2 Thick Plexiglass for the doors or they'll vibrate and you'll hear it and you WONT be happy at all.. Good luck... |
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Anonymous | you could just have the doors and stuff built on and then after your are all done and installing in your vehicle just remove the doors and everything and jus mount your amp on your box and not have to worry about the vibrating pieces and stuff |
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Silver Member Username: SymplestilesStockton, CA Usa Post Number: 102 Registered: Aug-04 | if you were making a ported box, you could make a slot port that slides up and down to go from sealed to ported. just and idea i think someone else on this board mentioned on another thread. good luck, sounds like a cool project |
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Bronze Member Username: Koz1031Monticello, In United states Post Number: 83 Registered: Jul-04 | put a couple of wisper fans in the amp enclosure. One pulling air in one pushing air out. This should cover the ventilation aspect for the amp, and not look bad. |
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Bronze Member Username: YoungbloodPost Number: 41 Registered: Aug-04 | ok i was going to hinge the door down in at least 3 places to reduce vibration noise...and i was going to cover the box in dynamat or somthing like it to lower the noises that would come from this material of box...at the same time i figured the dynamat would lower vibration on the door....i was going to make it slot ported, but how could you make it slot ported/sealed...i understand your idea but how would that seal the box tight |
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Silver Member Username: SymplestilesStockton, CA Usa Post Number: 105 Registered: Aug-04 | youngblood, check out this thread https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/93015.html he talks about the slot port to sealed idea. hope that helps |
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Bronze Member Username: YoungbloodPost Number: 42 Registered: Aug-04 | maybe i could make the slot port have like a mini-door that folds down to cover the port and has like a gasket to seal it maybe....but how big would i build the box then......thered be like a 2 cubic foot difference in box sizes.....the first box is 4 cubes either way but the second one is for dual 12" brahmas and would have like a 4 cube ported box and a 2 cube sealed box....i think i will just stick to slot ported...unless somebody can come up with a reasonable solution |
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Bronze Member Username: YoungbloodPost Number: 44 Registered: Aug-04 | ok lastly....the boxes im building are a dual 12" sealed 4.5 cf box for 2 12" volfenhags for my friend...and a dual 12" slot ported 4 cf box for 2 brahmas for myself...do these numbers sound right....just need to be sure |