Amp or Receiver

 

New member
Username: Eiwans

Post Number: 1
Registered: Oct-05
i have Denon with 45w per chanel and

Tannoy with Peak Power Handling 100 Watt
Frequency Reponse 55 Hz - 20,000 Hz

and yesterday I saw on one of internet auction
denon receiver with Speaker output.6 to 16 ohms
Front=L -105w+ R- 105w

The question is my speaker can handle that amp?
What different amp & receiver beside number of speaker :-)

thanks


 

Silver Member
Username: Cheapskate

Post Number: 451
Registered: Mar-04
no problem.

actually, where amps are concerned, it's really better to have too much power than not enough. pushing a lower powered amp to it's limits causes "clipping" which is much more likely to destroy a speaker than overpowering it.

when an amp reaches it's limits, it stops sending power like a lightswitch. that hard "pop" can be fatal to a speaker.

in general, regardless of power, when you start to hear ANY distortion, back off the volume and quit pushing. it cracks me up when i hear cars driving by with cheap low powered systems turned up to 11 and distorted as crap. some people just don't get it. LOL

i tell you this, i love my $240 100wpc X 7 panasonic reciever way more than my onkyo (which sounds similar to denon) because it's so much less electronic sounding. it's VERY easy going but super detailed. right now i'm listening to my mission M71s which were downright painful to listen to for extended periods of time on my onkyo before. it's amazing how much "reality" i'm getting out of such a cheap reciever.

look into the panasonics. ALOT of people are loving their grain free and super silky midrange and i've heard runmrs of people ditching $1000 amps for them.

i like mine so much that i'm not even getting the magnepans that i bought it for to begin with. it improved my sound THAT much. just today, i heard a track that i'm totally familiar with jump over a foot PAST my speakers where it imaged just inside them before.

regardless of what unit you go for... more power is better than less and don't push anything into distortion and you'll be ok.
 

New member
Username: Eiwans

Post Number: 2
Registered: Oct-05
"More power is better" agree :-)

since i cant afford to have bigger amp. what i did is
run 2 pair wire from amp (A & B) into each speaker.
is that give more power into speaker? i fell different :-) or just my ....

my speaker says it able to hadle biwire,



 

Silver Member
Username: Cheapskate

Post Number: 476
Registered: Mar-04
A/B switches send the same power. the only possible benefit to doing that would be the added extra cable offering less resistance to your speaker.

(my 10 guage monstercables made a clearly audible improvement over generic zip cord)

REAL biwiring (poor man's bi-amping) requires 4 amplifier channels and many debate how much this improves the situation as all four channels still send full range signals, but the tweeters waste the bass info and the woofer wastes the bass with their crossovers.

the theory between bi-wiring is that you're offering more power to your speakers, but i'm agreeing with whoever said (without actually trying it even though my mission M71s are biwireable and my panasonic reciever has a biwire mode) that the effects would be negligible as the crossovers still split the full range signals into the same ones they would with just one amp in some forum. (man do i love me some run on sentences) LOL

an A/B switch just divides the output of an amplifier into 2 seperate sends. same amp, extra tap.

if you wanted to try real bi-wiring, if you had a surround sound reciever (other than panasonic which has a biwire mode) you could try using your surround outs in "all speaker mode" (like my onkyo does) where the surrounds play the exact same signal as your mains.

i'm not sold on biwiring just like i think that demagnetizing CDs is a crock of doodoo.

true biamplification (2 amps + crossover and especially speaker x-over bypassing) makes sense though as all of the power goes to the speaker instead of getting tossed by the crossovers.

i think some of the tweeks that i read about are really fodder for obsessive compulsives.

sand filled speaker stand and decent cables do make a difference though. putting a bullet shaped piece of steel on top of your speakers or your amps on various pucks and spikes seems questionable to me though.

to be fair, i had my doubts about higher grade RCA jacks though which do make SUBTLE differences. still, a $2 generic video cable sending digital spanked my $35 monster cable interconnects sending analogue using an onkyo DVD player and reciever which in theory had the exact same D/A converters.

i could hear a clear (but not huge) difference between the two when switching back and forth between DVD and CD. it was rewarding to a person named "budget minded" to hear the much cheaper item sound better than the very expensive one.
 

Silver Member
Username: Touche6784

USA

Post Number: 682
Registered: Nov-04
uh budget, you got biwiring wrong. biamping requires two amps for each channel. biwiring can be done with one amp. the a/b switching allows for biwiring as long as the speakers allow for it. all you have to do is run two sets of wires to each speaker and turn both A and B on. biwiring is not to add extra power but to try and split the signals for the HF and the LF. not as effective as biamping but some think it works. i dunno where you get your info budget, but its only half right.
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