8" Subwoofer


Generally speaking, is an 8" sub good or bad? I don't really know what it means.

Paul T
It's the diameter of the speaker. 8" is on the small size but there are some good ones like Velodyne and Polk. All depends on how much room you need to fill and applications such as more for music or HT. Some tend to be tighter also then others so your taste plays a part in picking a sub. Also much better if you go for an amplified vs. passive (passive subs do not have a sub and needs the receiver or separate amp to power it.

I'm almost embarrased to ask..but I want to have a decent sub under $300 until I can afford to get something substantial 24 months from now.

Any recommendations from anyone for a nice sub, emphasis on the music verses video, & on the cheap? And yes Im already aware of HSU products.

Was considering Velodyne vX10 and Cambridge Soundworks Cube 8 (both in the $175 range)


If you want a cheap sub, im getting rid of my Jensen JS1000, if your in Canada ill sell it to you for 130cdn. e-mail for more info.


The sub is better than new! I packed it with my secret special material, for roughly three times tighter bass than stock. Have the pride of owning a G.DawG owned product!


There are people on both sides of the fence. Some prefer the smaller subs because they have lower mass and are easier to control. They sound tighter and more defined. The problem is that they are less efficient and the cone will need to move in and out of the basket further to make the same volume as a larger cone. This makes them flex more and in high levels can cause muddiness. Smaller cones simply can't put out as much dBs as a larger cone. Some people say that the larger cones are harder to keep in line and there is too much room for uneven movement in and out in all that surface area. But mind you that even quite loud an 18" sub would move so little you may not see the movement. I even met an owner of a car audio store once who wouldn't sell 6x9s because he claimed the part of the cone on the 9" axis couldn't move as fast as the part on the 6" axis. I would have loved to see him point out that difference in a blind A/B comparison with a 6 1/2", but I digress. Anyway, the only sensible problem I can say about a smaller sub is when watching movies and trying to emulate that standing-next-to-a-jet-engine feel, or listening to some of that boom-boom rap music at high volumes. The 8" probably will bottom out and leave you less than satisfied.

However, if your receiver has a sub preamp out, and you are handy with speaker building, you could buy a raw woofer/subwoofer driver from a local dealer or from a catalog. Parts Express is my favorite http://www.partsexpress.com/ but MCM also sells open drivers. Then get an old receiver and run the sub out of your receiver into any input of the old receiver and adjust the volume accordingly on it, then hook up the sub to it. This is what I had to do for a few years before I got a high power stereo amplifier I could dedicate to the sub. It was a nice carryover. With a $300 budget you could buy a $200 driver or 2 $100 drivers (a $100 driver will be the equivalent to what would come in a several $100 complete sub system) if you want to have a pair, build a good box(es) and spend the remaining on a good used receiver. Since the sub preout is all ready crossed over, you won't need to deal with one. You can use a Y-adapter to go from a mono subout to both L and R inputs of the receiver to run 2 subs. If you do a good job on the subs you may never want to replace them, just buy a better amp when funds become available.
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