Cerwin Vega AT-15

 

New member
Username: Daspliff

Post Number: 1
Registered: Nov-10
Anyone have any idea what size fuses to use
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 15514
Registered: May-04
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Are you presently blowing fuses?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nuck

Post Number: 15533
Registered: Dec-04
If the fuse is blackened, do not feed it another one!
 

New member
Username: Daspliff

Post Number: 2
Registered: Nov-10
I am not blowing them, these speakers were donated to me by a friend who had too many problems with them living in apartments. one night he came home police were there roommattes had been jammin and pulled the fuses and threw them away to get the police to leave. 2 years later he gives them to me. They obviously need new rubber as it is showing its age, however I want to make sure they work before spending my hard earned cash on them. I have a 50 watt per channel old JBL stereo with the bigass lcd remote that has the joystick and gets programmed over the phone.
 

New member
Username: Daspliff

Post Number: 3
Registered: Nov-10
ps they are barrell fuses kinda like any in-line fuse for marine
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15430
Registered: Jan-08
DaSpliff


fuse: 3 amps 250 volts
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 15517
Registered: May-04
.

If you're simply checking for operation, insert a 1 amp fuse. Select a "fast blow" type if they are available in the type of fuse you need. This will tell you whether the speakers are functional and will protect your amplifier if they are not. I take it the fuses are in line with the entire speaker and not just the tweeters. If that's the case, switch to a slow blow type fuse and slowly step the amperage up (1/2 amp per step) until you are unable to open the fuse at "normally loud volumes" with a heavy bass content to the music. I would then step back 1/2 amp to protect the speaker should any of your friends get their hands on the volume control again.


If the police were called, you should have a look at the crossover boards to check for burned or damaged capacitors or resistors. This can normally be accomplished by removing either the speaker connector cup at the rear of the speaker or, if need be, the woofer. At that point the crossover board should be visible and you'll be looking for any scorch marks or obvious signs of distress. An open resistor to the tweeter would act similarly to an open fuse. The intial 1 amp fuse should protect your amplifier from any shorted circuit paths in the crossover.


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New member
Username: Daspliff

Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-10
Thanks for the lesson on how to test them, the other person who posted said 250 volt, that doesnt seem like it would be correct as I have only a 110 reciever but I know so little about home audio can someone please verify this for meh. and do they sell slow blow and fast blow fuses at radio shack?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Plymouth

Canada

Post Number: 15433
Registered: Jan-08
DaSpliff

Check the resistance with a ohms meter directly on the leads of speaker after you replaced the fuse, you must see over 4 ohms.

250 volts is usualy used for less voltage!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Jan_b_vigne

Dallas, TX

Post Number: 15522
Registered: May-04
.

"250 Volts" is just the marking on the fuse and has nothing to do with the wattage of your amplifier or the voltage it operates on. You will never get 250 Volts of AC to your speakers. The fuse is simply rated at a certain amperage at a specific Voltage. Buy the fuses suggested and you'll be fine. If the fuses you need come in a fast and slow blow variety, you have a good chance of finding them at RS. You just want to make sure that when things get out of hand the fuse will protect your speakers and your amp. It's possible you'll need to make a decision about which fuse to buy - the slow blow will be for the entire speaker and the fast blow if the fuse only protects the tweeter. Hopefully, the sales staff at RS will be able to provide some assistance if you describe how you're using the fuse.


You can try a simple test before you connect the speakers to your amp. After inserting a low amperage fuse at the speaker and using a small 1.5 Volt or a 9 Volt battery, you'll test the woofer for operation. After stripping a bit of insulation off both ends of the wire to expose bare copper, attach a short length of speaker cable, zip cord or whatever you have to the two terminals of the speaker cabinet. You'll touch the other end of the cable's bare wire ends to the battery. Hold one of the bare wire leads on one terminal of the battery and flick the other bare wire end across the opposite terminal. When you flick the cable end across the terminal, you should hear a slight "POP" from the woofer and see the woofer move forward and backward as voltage is applied across the woofer's voice coil. The high frequency driver does not have a sufficiently long excursion to see movement in the tweeter but you want to make sure the speaker is minimally functional before you proceed with attaching it to your amp. If you see the woofer move when you perform the battery test, you can proceed to the next level of checking for music. If the woofer doesn't move, then you might have serious problems with the speakers and you should check back with us before you go any further.


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