This is the first time I have ever posted here, and I hope that you all don't think I am extremely stupid, but here goes anyway. I just received an NAD T762 today and am trying to set it up. So far, set up has been extremely easy, but I am having trouble connecting the speakers. After spending so much money on this wonderful system, I don't want to mess something up. I am using banana clips on the end of 12 gauge speaker wire. I know that you unscrew the post, but then what? There is a hole that opens after unscrewing, I assume you stick the banana clip in there. Is that true? I also notice that the front of the post is also metal...surrounded by either the black or red plastic. Can the banana plug be inserted here, without unscrewing? I know all of this sounds really lame and naieve, but my old Onkyo receiver simply had the "lever" type speaker terminals where you simply had to press the lever down, stick the bare wire in, and release the lever. I am not used the the screw kind. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am trying to get this set up ASAP to play with it this weekend.
You have it wrong (and, no, this is not a stupid question) and I think I can help you out.
If you are using a banana plug, you do not unscrew the cap on the binding post. Keep it closed. You plug the banana plug into the end of the binding post cap.
When you unscrew the binding post cap and see a hole in the side of the binding post itself, that is for a pin connector, not a banana plug (which is too large for the hole). Your old Onkyo used the much cheaper "spring clips" that most audiophiles detest. Your NAD has the so-called "5-way" binding posts that are the most desireable and you will like having them once you get this figured out.
As I said, leave the binding post caps screwed down and insert the banana plug into the hole on the end of the cap (red and black caps the screw in or out on the binding posts).
Post if you have any more questions or if I am not being clear.
Clear, simple and correct. One addition, Chris; the hole in the binding post will also take the twisted, bare copper core of the cable - the bright copper exposed when you strip away, say, half-and-inch of the surrounding plastic insulation. Thread the copper core into the hole, then tighten the cap to keep the cable secure. If ever you need to cut your cable to change length, or get extra cables, that is both the cheapest and most effective way to go. The only disadvatage is it is fiddly and troublesome if you do a lot of connecting and disconnecting. Dealers mostly use banana plugs just for that reason.
I was going to buy banana plugs but when I read around a bit, opinion was divided on how useful they were. Some sources claimed they made a better connection because they protected the bare wire. Some sources say that bare copper (or silver) can contract and expand with use and could therefore work loose. Others said it weakened the connection because it was just another obstancle for the signal to pass through. The only thing on which there seemed to be general agreement was that if you are likely to be changing your setup, banana plugs were more convenient.
In the end I didn't bother with them and screwed the bare cable straight into the binding post. This was partly because, like Chris, I saw only the hole in the side and didn't see how a plug could fit in it. It's only though reading this post that it's occurred to me that maybe the ends of the posts are actually little round covers, and if I get a fingernail under the edge and lift... there'll be a hole underneath for a plug.
But my system sounds fine to me at the moment so I've no intention of disturbing it unnecessarily to find out. I'm going to keep a little mystery in my life.
My advice to Chris - if you haven't bought your plugs yet, just get one set. Try a single speaker wth and without plugs. If you can't notice a difference, don't bother with plugs. Unless you know you're going to move or change your speakers fairly often.
Chris, I use banana plugs at the back of the receiver and bare wire at the speakers. This makes for a clean set-up at the reveiver's end and easier to connect/disconnect.