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New member Username: StevedorPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-04 | I've had this turntable for a while, since I was a tyke, and the thing has been through hell while always serving me well... until lately. The right channel isn't working. The left channel sounds fine. I'm sure its a problem with the turntable, not my amp. I have a suspicion that it could be the stylus or the entire cartridge, since the cartridge seems a bit loose on the tonearm. I no longer have the manual. What do you recommend? There isn't a good repair shop locally. Should I send it out, or is this something that I can repair myself if I had the proper parts and some directions? I'm not naturally inclined towards electronics, but I can follow instructions. I only want this to work again, nothing too fancy Steve |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | I don't know about the "seems a bit loose" part, that is not the way to have a cartridge mounted. It should be tight as if all one part of the tonearm. Never the less, you probably have a bad connection somewhere in the arm/table. You can try cleaning all the connections starting at the cartridge leads and going to the cables that go into your phono input. Take the bottom of the table off to get to those connectors. First check to see if you can isolate the problem by swapping the channels at each point to find where the problem might exist. By simply removing and replacing the connectors you may solve the problem since many of these connectors are what are called self wiping and they will dislodge a bit of oxidation as they are removed and replaced. |
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New member Username: DeliriumsPost Number: 1 Registered: Jun-04 | Steve The 505 has an inherent design fault with the cartridge carrier.There are two small plastic lugs that secure the cartridge-these break which result in the cartridge becoming loose and the loss of output from one channel. Im at present looking for my third replacement cartridge carrier! |
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Unregistered guest | I need to replace a belt in my dual 505 turntable, but can't seem to get the platter off the base. I have never had to take this off before. Is there a spot where it is connected that I am not finding? I know usually the platter lifts from hte base without any screws or anything. |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | Should be a "C" clip at the spindle/platter interface. Be careful removing and replacing it, it tends to want to fly off into outer sapce and be eaten by a black hole (Mr. Hawkins current theory not withstanding). You can buy a "C" clip tool at most hardware stores. |
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Silver Member Username: Disco_stanMinnesota Post Number: 169 Registered: Dec-03 | Stevedor do you have the Dual 505-1 or the 505-2? BTW, how do you like your Dual? I'm currently bidding on a 1229Q. I hope it will be a great table. |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | The 5 series and the 12 series Dual's were, in most respects, entirely different turntables. The 1229Q was the top of the line for its time, and a very good table. The Q indicated it was wired for a quadraphonic cartridge, though no one could ever explain exactly what that meant in terms of tonearm wiring. |
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Unregistered guest | I have a DUAL 505-2 turntable that is generating a substantial background hum through the speakers. Would this be a cartridge problem or what ? It also seems to be very sensitive to static electricity but plays the records very well. |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | Hum can come from the cartridge or the wiring. Sensitive to static electricity tells me nothing about the situation. We're going to need more information. |
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Unregistered guest | I have not used my Dual 505-2 turntable for years until today. As far as I remember there is no power switch on the unit. All you do is pick the arm up from the cradle and move it over the platter. However, when I do this, the turntable does not spin. I have checked the outlet and it is working properly. The 2 base bolts are screwed down properly. Am I doing something wrong of should I get it serviced? Thanks. |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | Is the belt attached to the platter? The suspension should allow the plinth to bounce slightly when you push down and release. Give the platter a spin by hand and tell me what happens. |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | If I remember correctly, the 505 has a strobe. Does the light for the strobe come on when you move the arm over? |
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Unregistered guest | The plinth has the slight bounce you mention. When I move the arm over you can hear a click as if a switch was being tripped. When I spin the platter it rotates for a half turn or so. This model does not have a strobe. |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | Is the motor turning? Lift the platter mat to find out. |
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Al B Unregistered guest | Bob A- I have a Dual 505-1 that we hadn't used for a couple years and went through the exact process you are describing. Ours had been serviced and had the belts replaced not long before we lapsed on vinyl listening but when we brought it back out it would not work. Same situation, including the click when the tonearm is moved into position but still no power. I think it was J Vigne who walked me through opening up the table and getting at the inside. In my case, the lousy stock power cord (which is still in use) was loose or has a break in it somewhere. After poking around, checking all the connections, and straightening out the power cord, the table started working again. Maybe you will have the same experience. Check out that cord! Best of luck, Al |
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D. Joyce Unregistered guest | Re:Dual 505-2 Hum The crackling & banging occurs when I remove a record from the platter after playing. It is pretty loud through the speakers. Would a replacement cartridge be in order ? It is still equpped with the original, about 18 years old. Can you make a specific recommendation ? You mentioned that the wires could cause the hum. What wires are you referring to ? Thanks Daniel Joyce |
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J. Vigne Unregistered guest | If you are not referring to static electricity when you remove the disc, something that should not come through the speakers, you may have a corroded or oxidized connection from the tonearm wiring. The rubber damping pads on a cartridge will dry out and even if the cartridge has just sat, it may damage your records and not perform properly. A new cartridge would be in order. I can't make a recommendation, there are too many variables. Try here:http://www.amusicdirect.com/ Ground problems usually are the source of every hum problem. In a turntable they can come from broken connections, oxidized connections or no connection what so ever. It is very rare for a cartridge to hum, though an improperly grounded cartidge will suffer from hum. |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks to J.Vigne and Al B for their responses. I lifted the mat as suggested but it does not appear to me that the motor is turning. I tried to take the platter off but it does not want to come off and I am unwilling to force it any more than I have already. It may well be the power cord is the culprit. Rather than risk damaging it, I think I will take the safe route and look for an authorized service dealer. That may be hard to find even in Toronto. Thanks again. |
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Al B Unregistered guest | Bob A- Not a bad idea to find a repair shop, but I wouldn't hold your breath for an authorized dealer. Anyone you can find who works on turntables should do. BUT, you don't have to give up yet. Did you remove the C clip that is at the center of the platter? J Vigne described it above for someone else, and I was able to do it with my fingers without a tool. Just get a grip on the flat clip and turn counter-clockwise to loosen. If you don't have a good grip or torque it too much it may well fly off but it is not so small as to be easily lost. Then the platter should lift straight up and off. More importantly, you should figure out how to CAREFULLY lift off the top of the table. You have to loosen the screws holding it down, but they do not come off. They fit into open-ended clips on the inside of the table and you need to rock the screw so that the bottom points inward and it will come out of the clip. It is hard to explain but I will look for the description J Vigne gave me in an earlier thread because I understood what he meant and was able to accomplish it. One caution is that the top of the table, which holds the tonearm obviously, is wired to the bottom of the table so you cannot simply pop it off and set it aside. By looking, however, you could see if there is a loose connection etc. You make the call on whether you want to take this on, but I will try to find J Vigne's description or maybe he will oblige again and tell you directly. This sounds more complicated than it is once you are standing at the table. Best of luck again. Whether DIY or taking it to a repair shop, the fun of listening to all that old music -- and much more new music than you would imagine -- on vinyl is worth the effort of getting the table fixed. Al |
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Al B Unregistered guest | Here is the way J Vigne described it to me previously: The four hold down screws on the plinth are able to be loosened and swung in toward the center of the platter to allow the plinth to be lifted up. If you will take a flashlight and lift the plinth as high as it will go, you should see how to get the screws loose from the base. The screws do not come loose from the plinth, but, instead, lift up with it. |
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Anonymous | I also have a Dual 505-2. My platter is easily taken off by (1) removing the rubber mat, (2) taking a screwdriver - place it in one of the three slots of the plastic keeper and gently slide the keeper counter-clockwise. (3) Once the keeper is off, it is a simple matter of lifting off the platter to check things out. You'll soon see if one or two belts are needed. You can also turn the two small X-slotted bolts (one in front and one on the right side) counter-clockwise to loosen up and slide out of the plastic slot below to remove everything else that holds the arm, mechanism and so forth to get to the underneath. Unfortunately I can't determine why the motor doesn't turn on or why nothing works. Perhaps someone out there has the answer. Good luck to you and to me, Koz |
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Unregistered guest | I was on the verge of removing my 505-2 from my set-up forever because I thought the motor had failed. I decided that since replacement motors are hard to come by (and expensive) and I never really expected to use the turntable again, I had nothing to lose by disassembling the motor and taking a look. The first problem I came across had nothing to do with the motor or the wiring: When you lift the tone arm over the platter a system of mechanical levers and springs is meant to actuate an electronic micro switch which supplies power to the motor - the click that you hear when you move the arm is the mechanical action, not the micro switch. I was hearing a click but, on inspection, not all of the mechanical parts were moving correctly. I moved the sticking section manually (the section immediately adjacent to the microswitch, in my case) and subsequent movements of the arm correctly closed the switch. Sadly, my motor still did not turn. Check the micro switch is actuated before going any further. You need to lift the entire plinth and look underneath while moving the arm. Easier if you have an assistant! I then removed the motor from the plinth (nasty circlips), detached the wires (simple friction connections) and used a flathead screwdriver to remove the metal case which covers the motor. I removed the brass belt-carrier from the spindle (small screw at the base - take note of how far down the spindle this is located), along with the plastic guide (careful with the small spring - don't know what it does!?) then the two screws/nuts that hold the actual motor assembly together. The motor is a simple moving magnet between two coils, and only has these three pieces. I disassembled it, applied a little oil to the spindle and some vaseline (although I think this may be too light?) to the "bearings". Reassembly was the reverse of the above. There's not much that can go wrong, but make sure you replace the brass belt carrier at the right point on the spindle or the 45/33 mechanism won't work or, worse still (given what we've gone through), it might prevent the motor from turning! Not for the faint-hearted and I wouldn't recommend the procedure unless you have at least some electronic experience, but it has worked for me (for the moment at least - time will tell). I'm now regretting that I started to replace my favourite vinyl with CDs - what a waste of money! :-) JPEGs of the 505-2 "operating instructions" can be made available on request. |
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Unregistered guest | I have just unearthed my dual 505-2, requires some attention but i can't find my manual - pitch belt problems. Yes you guessed the question, does any kind soul have an e-copy and would they mind emailing it to me on bsbrown66@hotmail.com. I will remember you as I dance around my room thinking I'm 15 again. |
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Iamnotno6 Unregistered guest | 505-2 i have the platter off & loosened the 2 X screws, but can't get anything else to come off what do i have to do to get the rest out? mark |
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Al B Unregistered guest | Mark- Look at the posts above about loosening the screws on the plinth: The four hold down screws on the plinth are able to be loosened and swung in toward the center of the platter to allow the plinth to be lifted up. If you will take a flashlight and lift the plinth as high as it will go, you should see how to get the screws loose from the base. The screws do not come loose from the plinth, but, instead, lift up with it. Good luck. |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | I've posted a couple of pictures here: which I hope, in conjunction with the descriptions above, should make it easier to understand. Addendum to my earlier post: The motor is held in place with C-clips, not circlips as stated; and vaseline was, as expected, not suitable! After applying liberal amounts of lithium grease to the motor it's now running better than it ever has. I also took the opportunity to attend to the plinth "bearing" - the oil on which was acting as more of an adhesive than a lubricant! |
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Stimpey.ie Unregistered guest | BobA / Butterwince: 505-2 not turning: Same prob here. I lifted off the turntable and the drivebelt and squirted a wee drop of WD40 onto the motor switch actuator mechanism thru the small (triangular) hole in the deck plate to dissolve the 20 year old dried grease. A little tonearm exercise (sw on / sw off) and then hey presto! I wonder if anyone can tell me how to mount my new cartridge and adjust the forces 'cos I can't remember! |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | You'll find some JPEGs of the operating instructions via the above link - it covers what you're after. |
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Demohead Unregistered guest | Butterwince - Thank you, thank you, thank you. I've had my trusty 505-2 for so many years and have never wanted to change, but I lost the Operating Instructions ages ago. Thanks to your JPEGs I can get the settings back to where they really should be (rather than where my ears tell me they should be!). Thanks again. |
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Al B Unregistered guest | Thanks for the manual pages Butterwince. I really appreciate it too! |
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Unregistered guest | similar problems to everybody else's, i removed the platter, lifted the plynth, and took out the motor to see what effect disassembly, cleaning, lube would have. the pitch belt was rotted and in several pieces. any instructions for replacing? also, like an idiot, i didn't note the position of the friction cables, or the three winged brass thing that sits on the pitch wheel assembly. any suggestions are welcome, thanks. i may have destroyed the motor, so suggestions for buying a replacement motor are also welcome. |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | The motor is very basic so as long as you were careful (and assuming it wasn't dead already) I would be surprised if you've managed to damage it. Don't be too hasty to assume that the fault lies with the motor. It'll certainly benefit from a clean and some lubrication after 20 years, but the more likely problem is the system of mechanical levers that actuates the motor power switch - check that all sections move when the arm is moved across the platter. I'm not sure what you mean by "the three winged brass thing that sits on the pitch wheel assembly". The only brass part I can recall is the belt carrier that fits on the motor spindle. Unfortunately I didn't take many pictures when I had the turntable in pieces. If, by "the position of the friction cables", you mean the power connections for the motor, the colours are as follows (from the edge of the board, working in): Green and Black, White, Yellow. Poor quality picture here: As for replacements parts, I can't help. I suspect it might be simpler and cheaper to buy another second hand turntable! I'd suggest you set the pitch control as best possible and do without the adjustment - at least until you can see if the turntable's going to work reliably. |
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Unregistered guest | thanks! moderate success... my motor has black, white, yellow and green only. i the black one where your photo has blue. where does the second black from the power supply go? i put it on the first post with the other black and the green, and you should see my hair!. no really, it did blow a circuit. i put it on the white post instead, and the motor spins!! but it spins without moving the tone arm, so something's weird. also, maybe i do mean the brass carrier. best i can recall it was not on the motor spindle, but the knob spindle next to it, but i could be wrong. and any idea, now that i'm a step closer to it working, how i can figure out how to replace the pitch belt? thanks a lot, i know it would be cheaper to buy another turntable, but i'm not going to do that. this is my last attempt to stay vinyl! my motorhead records and yes albums are cowering in the corner not knowing their fate... |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | The blue(N) and brown(L) wires are the power inputs (UK - this may be different elsewhere [where are you?]). A third power-in wire would have to be an earth. My earth is via the spade-terminated wire visible in the picture and is not connected to the power circuit. Check the standard wiring colours in your country. If you are unsure, you should not mess with the power cables!! Because the pitch belt is toothed, I can't see any way of sorting this other than with an exact replacement part. You might be able to find a supplier on the internet - sorry I can't really help. Try searching this and other forums for a link, or try a local hi-fi shop. Again, I'd say that I would probably just live without it. Still not sure how to help with your brass part - If you could provide (email) some pictures of your motor and the loose parts, it might be helpful. I have another couple of pictures of the assembled turntable which might help you - I'll upload them to the above link when I get a chance. |
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Merchant Unregistered guest | Hi all I've recently purchased a 505-2 and although happy with the quality of sound coming through there is a distinct crackle and hum coming through the speakers when a record isn't playing. The player is earthed and connected correctly. Thanks in advance |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | Some suggestions: Ensure that the earth wire is indeed properly connected at both ends. Switch off as many lights, TVs, applicances, etc. around the house as possible - especially things that are plugged into the same outlet as the turntable (e.g. CD player). Move the turntable as far away from the amp as possible. Try to keep the turntable phono cables away from any other cables (i.e. mains, speakers). Try removing the cartridge and see if the hum is still present. |
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Gold Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 3653 Registered: May-04 | Crackling could well be an external souce, though it would probably appear onother inputs also. Often the contacts at the point where the cartridge holder plugs into the headshell would get oxidized and this problem would result. Clean all the contacts thoroughly with a cleaner such as Pro Gold and treat them with a contact enhancer if this indactes the problem is in the headshekk contacts. |
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Merchant Unregistered guest | I'll make some changes and let you know how i go. Thanks for your help. Is there a manual available on-line somewhere??? |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | |
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BriaoYuno Unregistered guest | Hi, I have a 505-2 wich seems to be a little bit "too fast".. Is there an easy way to adjust the tempo slightly? Thanks, Magnus |
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Bronze Member Username: PhaedrusPost Number: 11 Registered: Nov-04 | Hello all, I have had this DUAL 505 forever and still love it. I am curious though. This piece of paper for measuring the distance from the "tonearm bearing" to the stylus being 221mm doesn't seem to work. I have never used it and my lps sound very good (maybe they should sound better?). I have always just set the cartridge back a mm or 2 from the edge of the headstock and made it equal on both sides.I am not even 100% sure how to lay the paper on or under the tonearm to have bothered. I have the Ortofon VMS 20EO MKII. Please advise on proper use of the guage so I can perhaps rediscover the beauty of this turntable. Thanx all. P.S....lost my original paper guage and I see that the one through the link is slightly shorter than 221m. Phaedrus (Joe) |
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Gold Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 4647 Registered: May-04 | The Dual tables used a plastic guage that the headshell slid into. They were highly inaccurate but more convenient than the paper alignment guages. You can get two point alignment guages from some of the shops that sell cartridges on line. The stylus is placed on the outside mark and set to be aligned with the crosshatch lines on the guage. The stylus is moved to the inside mark and the alignment process is repeated. The stylus is checked for alignment on the outer mark and adjusted. And so it goes, sliding the cartridge back and forth until it aligns at both marks. Proper alignment sets the stylus to the point where it will be perpendicular to the record groove over the widest area. |
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New member Username: ImasykoPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-05 | Hope this thread is still being monitored - I have the same problem others here have described, the motor doesn't spin. I have dissambled the table and checked the arm mechanism all the way to the switch, and it all works. I have removed the cover from the power supply and using a circuit tester, verified that power is getting to the power supply. But, in checking the leads that go from the power supply to the motor, the circuit test fails. There doesn't seem to be any juice etting to the motor. Any ideas? |
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Bronze Member Username: DvautierBellevue, Wa Usa Post Number: 26 Registered: Feb-05 | I can' believe there have been so many posts about your 505. I have a 510 and I needed to clean the contact pins in the headpiece. I took some fine sand paper and laid it out and rubbed the headpiece contacts evenly across it. You see the headpiece contact is made at the end of the pin. I also carefully scraped the tonearm assembly contacts. Worked find. |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | I rotated and scaled the "cartridge alignment gauge" before printing it, but that's more hassle than it's worth. All you really need is a strip of paper 15mm wide and around 230mm long. Measure as accurately as possible and mark as tiny a dot as possible at exactly 214.5mm from the very edge. Half-millimetre accuracy, even with the supplied guide, is not easy to achieve. Now put a record on the turntable (power off) and lay your "gauge" on top of the record with the short edge, furthest from the dot, butted up against the tone arm bearing post. Move the arm over the gauge and lower it onto the paper - you want the tip of the stylus to be exactly on the dot. Make sure that the gauge is always tight against the bearing and move the cartridge until the stylus hits the spot. Check the setting in a couple of places round the arc of the stylus. |
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Megz Unregistered guest | Hello, Hope someone can help. I have recently rescued my dual 505 from the attic, but when i tried to use it i found that there was very little volume (its not the amp or the speakers), and no bass. There also seems to be an extraneous bit of wire which when touched makes a sound through the speakers.I have just plugged the two other wires straight into the amp - the turntable works fine and everything seems ok. Just very quiet and tinny!!! Can anyone help me?? |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | Sounds like the amp doesn't have a dedicated phono input or it does and you haven't connected the amp to it. If it doesn't have a phono input you'll need a pre-amp in order to use one of the "line" inputs. The extra wire is an earth (ground) - if the amp has a phono input it will likely have an earthing point as well. |
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heroesandvillains Unregistered guest | I have a Dual 505-2. It's been used more or less consistently for about the last 17 years. Lately, it has developed a noticable amount of wow. The table simply isn't spinning at a consistent rate anymore. About 7-8 months ago I replaced the drive belt, so it's unlikely due to belt wear. Anyone have any suggestions? |
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dogs2222 Unregistered guest | has anyone ever succesfully replaced the pitch belt on a 505-2? the pre loved 505-2 i purchased came without a pitch belt. Are any other parts required apart from the belt (and a bit of ingenuity)? OR is it possible to adjust the speed without a pitch belt? it runs slightly too slow. |
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butterwince Unregistered guest | Increasing wow could be the turntable bearing in need of lubrication or, more likely, the motor is failing - that's what mine did before it became less and less inclined to start turning. If you feel up to it, I suggest opening up the motor and lubricating it as outlined previously in this thread. It is a very basic mechanism, but I can't see any way of adjusting the speed without a belt. It would be easy to replace but I'm afraid I can't help you locate one. As I've said elsewhere in this thread, I can only suggest you set the pitch control as best possible and do without the adjustment. |
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Dr_tully Unregistered guest | I have a Dual 505 which I've moved from North America to the UK. I have an autotransformer to run my entire kit and the table seems to be running slow - to the point that the pitch control can't bring it up to speed (+/- 6%)- it seems to be running at 5/6ths speed. I had assumed that as the strobe has marks for 50 & 60 Hz operation all would be ok. Does anyone know if there were two versions of motors manufacturered? |
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Gold Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 6335 Registered: May-04 | The question has been asked here before, and the answer appeared to be how you are determining the speed of the table. If you are using the built in strobe light, it does not adjust for the change in AC frequency. If that is not the answer, the next usual answer is to change the pulley on the motor's main shaft. Read some of the archived posts on Dual tables and you will surely find your answer explained more fully. |
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Dr_tully Unregistered guest | I'm sorry - it's not a 505 but a 506. the baseplate has a voltage (115V) and frequency (60Hz) rating and the speed is determined by the strobe - there are 4 bands: 45rpm at 50 & 60Hz and 33 1/3 at 50 and 60 Hz - the neon flashes at 120Hz in north america or 100Hz here but i can still determine platter speed. There are no different belt positions for speed adjustment. Has anyone built a little 60Hz inverter to power only the turntable? |
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Gold Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 6343 Registered: May-04 | http://www.dual-reference.com/index.html |
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The Basilisk Unregistered guest | Hi Dr Tully, I'm not so familiar with the 506, but if it's set up like the 505-1, 501 etc, you should be able to adjust the travel of the pitch control further. Take off the platter, have a look at how the pitch control works. There is a little nut at the top of the shaft upon which the mechanism that the pitch control is moving is mounted. In other words, as you move the pitch control, you'll see this assembly move up and down the shaft slightly. You can adjust it further by means of this nut - tighten to speed up I think. You should then get correct pitch back 'in range'. The top strobe ring should give you 45rpm /50Hz, the 3rd from top gives you 33.33 prm / 50Hz. If in doubt, find a record you have on CD as well and pitch match! Hope that helps - I'm new here so maybe it's all been said before. Cheers from Australia, Sam. |
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Panick! Unregistered guest | Hi, I found this thread whilst searching for an answer for my own problem and thought it would be worth a try posting it here. Is it possible to attatch any cartridge to a Dual 505? The original cartridge has been removed and 2 of the connecting wires have been broken away from the arm. Will it be easy to attatch a new cartridge with new wires or will it require soldering or anything scary like that? Thanks in advance for any replies. |
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Gold Member Username: Jan_b_vigneDallas, TX Post Number: 6972 Registered: May-04 | Have you looked at the troubleshooting page I offered above (several times)? |
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Christian Hughes Unregistered guest | great advice- thanks- my 505-2 had stopped and I found it was the little switch sticking. was just about to buy a new deck because of this but thanks to you guys mended it & saved myself a few pounds! |
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maf Unregistered guest | I just got a 505-2 off ebay that was dead on arrival. THe tonearm is tight to swing off the holder and when the "on" click is heard, nothing happens! What next? |
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New member Username: AitkenPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-06 | Can anyone help? I have a Dual 505 and a 505-1 both of which have cartridge problems. The 505 had a broken headshell and the 505-1 just needed a new stylus. Put both decks into a "reputable" repairer and after lots of grief now have both back in bits because they can't get new headshells! What's involved in replacing the headshells myself and what cartridges would the world recommend I fit? Thanks. |
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New member Username: StevetiptreeEssex United Kingdom Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-06 | Can anyone advise me? I have just received my 505-2 tt from ebay, pluged it in and it appears that the tone is not moving freely across the platter. it works fine for a little while then seems to stick.I,ve tried setting the anti skid but it,s not making any diffrence? help...... |