Archive through January 19, 2009
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New member Username: Retired_bobPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-08 | Ooops..Ifollowedthe link back and found the answer with a diagram.. Thanks Mark. Question,I also found the little resistor on the top of the board (The only thing on that side)..Fuse is ok!. Where can I get the Resistor[pack ?.. Thanks. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 104 Registered: May-07 | Which model of Bose Acoustimass subwoofer do you have? There are three different possibilities associated with the LifeStyle 12 series. It should be an AM9P, AM25P or AM25P series II. I need to know in order to research this a bit further to find out which resistor you are speaking of. The model number and serial number should tell me what I need to know. If you have a digital camera and can attach a little photo of the board showing the location of the resistor that would be helpful also. MB |
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New member Username: WadaviesPost Number: 5 Registered: Mar-08 | Mark, I see you are back on deck-I suspect our email communication has broken down-can you send me an email at wadavies@bigpond.net.au. I wonder if either of us has inadvertently put the other on a blocked senders list. Also do you mind copying to warrend@megau.com.au for good orders sake. Mark do you think through you I can get a cd mechanism from Vance Baldwin-I can reimburse you thru Paypal(plus the moneys outstanding!) Wonder what happened to the emails?? Regards Warren |
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New member Username: Retired_bobPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-08 | Thanks for the response... Mark, Following is all I can glean from the beasts. It is a "Powered Acoustimass 9 speaker system" Ser# AM9P0DC189146. PC Board # 17552 534 3E. Looking through a looking glass the lonely chip on the board on the opposite of the fuse side is a 59C11SN board soldered. The receiver without Light, is a Lifestyle Model 5 Music center, Manufactured in 1995. I would like to know if I should replace the C19 Cap with the 33ufd 25/50 V ? Thank you again... |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 105 Registered: May-07 | Bob, First of all yes, change C19 but use either a 47ufd or preferably a 33ufd @ 50,63 or 100 VDC. Any one of these should fit on the board. DON'T use a 25VDC cap. It WILL fail prematurely. Do this first and see if the console is actually coming on. If it isn't, then chances are that the connector on the console has broken solder connections and it's located on the bottom PC board. (where you plug the power supply in) The chip you referred to is the EEPROM and should have nothing to do with you not having any sound or the sub not working. I assume you found that the fuse was OK. Do the cap change first and verify that the console is actually powering up before we continue with any kind of diagnosis. It having power will dictate whether or not you have a console problem, wall-wart (little black box power supply used for the console) problem or an Acoustimass sub problem. Get back to me after accomplishing the above. |
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New member Username: Retired_bobPost Number: 4 Registered: Jul-08 | Thanks Mark...Will doand report back.. Just to clarify, I think the Conole is OK, Except forthe DSP issues, I can hear the reception from AM/FM, Cd Etc, through the EarPhomes..C19 hopefully will solve both DSP and the Sub-Power up Issues... |
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New member Username: Retired_bobPost Number: 5 Registered: Jul-08 | Well sir, Just replaced the C19,the two middle segments of the two 8s on the left extreme came on. The two segments that were on were blinking and as soon as I used the remote for ANY feature it quits blinking.. Console is quiet and so is the Sub..Used to have some very low output from console..Nolonger... May be headed in the right direction,one step at a time...? Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 106 Registered: May-07 | Bob, Unfortunately the symptoms you now describe all point to the microprocessor. That would explain why you only see two digits lit (they are multiplexed by the processor, two at a time but scan fast enough to appear all lit at the same time. The double 8's indicated all segments lit) A bad processor would also explain why the sub is not powering up, and all the internal mutes are on, also controlled by the processor, hence no sound output. I'm afraid the only cure for that console is to send it to Bose for repair as they cannot and will not furnish parts to any Bose servicer. You may also want to verify your work replacing the cap. Make sure no connections were broken, no solder splashes anywhere and also make sure the cap was inserted with the proper polarity. But the bottom line is, something is wrong with the main brain and if it doesn't work, nothing does. I've included the Bose info below. Don't use the field services number, use the one for customers at the bottom. Attention USA Field Services Affiliates - Factory Serviceable Only This product is Factory Serviceable Only. Please do not attempt to repair. Please call Americas Field Services at (800) 233-4408 for a Return Authorization to send to Bose® Corporation for repair, or inform the customer to call Bose directly at (800) 367-4008. |
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New member Username: Retired_bobPost Number: 6 Registered: Jul-08 | Well, Thanks again mark...No harm..I have already lined up another Console through Ebay..May be that will behave better.. You are a tremendous resource to all here. Very Very rare commodity indeed.... |
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New member Username: Just_n8Portland, OR USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | Mark - It appears that you're the resident Bose expert. Your knowledge is really impressive, and your willingness to share it even more so! We own an OLD Lifestyle 10 with 2 zone control that was manufactured in '92. It's connected to a Bose Built-InVisible whole house system. As of late, the unit will play for anywhere from 10 mins to a couple of hours and then the sound will simply cut out. Sometimes the unit will power off, but most times the display stays lit. I've tried turning it off and on, unplugging it, but most times, just waiting a few hours or even over night will remedy the problem leading me to think it might be heat related? Ive scoured the internet but all paths lead to you and this forum. You're famous! Any ideas would be helpful - I'm not afraid to do some electrical work (I've torn apart my mac before), but shy away from soldering as I don't have too much experience in that area. Thanks in advance. |
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New member Username: AltrePost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | hello everyone im new to bose i have a lifestyle 18 system i have power in my sub woofer the leds are flashing but no sound at all also wonderin' how the jumpers need to go thanks in advance |
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New member Username: LmacdaddyCalabash, Nc Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | Mark, oh so close... I have followed this Bose thread with great interest hoping to find the answer to my problem and it was almost answered for retired-Bob but you went in another direction... I too have an old AM9 given to me by my neighbor after a lightning strike. The symtoms are similar to the rest of the sub power problems where there is power to the receiver with faint volume but the sub does not turn on even though the fuse is intact. The AM9 does not have either the single 100 ohm black resistor or the 200 parallel resisters. Just wondering where to look for the fault or resistors to replace on this board... Thx, Lmac |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 107 Registered: May-07 | Nate, That is an old system and there were two different versions of it during its heyday. If you don't have any soldering experience or electronics background then nothing I could do from here would help you. There is way too much going on inside that unit and what you've described probably means you have power supply problems. About the only advice I can give you on this one is to have the power supply overhauled, caps checked for leakage and value. The unit also falls under the "Factory Service Only" heading I referred to in a previous post. I don't know how valuable this unit is to you but it may be refurbishable by Bose if you wish to go that route. Wish I could be of more help. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 108 Registered: May-07 | Alberto, When you say the LED's are flashing do you mean both the green and the amber LED's? Read this below and see if you can determine which is your case. • Green LED: The green LED serves a dual purpose: general system health and serial data received. The green LED will blink once per second with a 50% duty cycle (i.e. on for ½ second, off for ½ second) if the system booted and is running normally. If the unit is in the SmartSpeaker "Off" condition, the green LED will blink briefly (approx. 0.1s ON time) once every 5 seconds. • The green LED will also toggle whenever a serial data byte is received. This will interrupt the normal 1 second blink rate. The green LED blinking faster than 1 Hz usually indicates that it is receiving serial communications. • Amber LED: The amber LED serves to signal 3 conditions: power applied/boot status, S/PDIF status and clipping status. When power is first applied the amber LED will light briefly. If the PROM FLASH checksum is incorrect or hardware does not pass power-on self test, the green LED and amber LED will alternately blink at approximately a 5 Hz rate. If the green LED is blinking at its normal, 1 Hz rate, a blinking, 1Hz amber light indicates that there is no valid S/PDIF signal present: If the amber LED is off while the green LED is blinking normally, then valid S/PDIF is present and being received. Finally, if the amber LED will briefly blink (in this case, only when valid S/PDIF is present) when the satellite amps are clipping. This should only occur when playing the system at very high levels. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 109 Registered: May-07 | Larry, The AM9P uses a lot of FET opamps, a microprocessor and a host of other discrete components to derive the surround outputs necessary and to control the amp in general. It also has 5 seperate amps, 4 for the R,L,Center,a shared one for the two surround channels and a more powerful amp to drive the subwoofer itself. Any one or more of these amps or any number of discrete components could have been damaged by lightning. If anything is holding the amp in protection mode or the microprocessor is bad then it will not power up and without trouble shooting to the component level it will be difficult to fix. Also, check pin one of the DIN cable going to the sub, there should be about +10Vdc with respect to pin 7 or ground when the console is on. If that's not there then the problem may be in the console/cable and not the sub. Here too we're dealing with a unit that a service center might be able to repair but if it gets involved it too is a "Factory Servicable Only" item. |
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New member Username: LmacdaddyNc Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-08 | Mark, I get the one that is not an easy fix. Go figure, it's always something and more. I appreciate the info and quick reply. I'll check for the voltage to be sure but I think it will be ok because I purchased the cable new last week from Bose for $30 bucks as the neighbor could not locate the original. I've learned a lot from reading your responses in this forum. In fact, I am going to fix a friends unit that has the display problem next week. Thx again, Lmac |
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New member Username: AltrePost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-08 | hello mark burgess thanks for your response when i turned on the sub the amber led blinks about 4 times then the green led blinks every five seconds but no sound at all thanks in advance for your help |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 110 Registered: May-07 | Alberto, From your description of the LED's, it sounds like the sub is in the "Smartspeaker" off condition. Make sure all 4 of the switches on the switchblock are in the down position. Also make sure the cable is well seated at both ends, the console and the sub and that it hasn't been damaged in any way along its entire length. That cable is carrying both the digital audio data (S/PDIF) and a seperate set of wires carrying the commands/configuration data to tell the sub what to do, how to configure etc. What is happening (or not happening in this case) is that the internal electronics of the sub is never receiving a "SmartSpeaker" on signal so it remains in a standby state. About all you can do is to check these things above but ultimately if you find nothing wrong, the whole system will have to be taken or sent to an authorized Bose service center. There is WAY too much going on inside those things to try any form of DIY repair. |
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New member Username: Retired_bobPost Number: 7 Registered: Jul-08 | Well, Bought the following Console and I will have to see,if it works withy my Sub(AM9) and RC I have..:-) BOSE LIFESTYLE 12 SERIES II RECEIVER MODEL V COMPATIBLE With 5/8/9//25 SUBWOOFER OR WITH LIFESTYLE 5/8/12 THIS WAS PART OF BOSE LIFESTYLE 12 SERIES II STEREO SYSTEM. BUILT IN AM/FM, CD PLAYER AND AUX/TAPE/VIDEO INPUT. ITEM LOOKS GOOD AND WORKS BUT THE CD PLAYER IS MAKING NOISE AND NOT WORKING. |
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New member Username: Hombreman007Mxico, Chalco Mexico Post Number: 3 Registered: Jun-08 | Hi again Mark: Would you please tell me which is the function of each pin of the picture attached (rj45)? and what is the order of the pins in the connector minidin? (I mean what is number 1, number 2 etc) it is of a bose ps28 thanks for advanced  |
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New member Username: StrobesPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-08 | Hello Mark. I'm a newbie here and spend some time reading in hope to find an answer to my problem. Unfortunately I did not find it or may be miss it. In any case here is the problem: The fluorescent display on my Lifestyle 12 Model 5 is dark. It was getting dimmer over few month and completely dark now. Do you think I need to try replace some CAPs or I need a new display? I have had measured power on some of the display's pins and varies from 15V to 20V. Just wanted to mention in case this can be any help. Thank you. Alex | |
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New member Username: LmacdaddyNc Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-08 | Mark, Boy you're a busy guy so I want to thank you in advance for your advice and help.. I fixed my buddy's Lifestyle Model 5 Music Center display problem by replacing the capacitor with a 47 ufd from Radio Shack as you have described. It took me about 5 minutes and it works perfectly. Bose wanted $85 dollars to fix it over 2 years ago so he's happy I did it for under $5 bucks just for the part. Anyway, I put my Lifestyle 5 receiver on his stereo sub woofer system and it worked fine and his receiver on my sub behaved the same as mine did(it didnt work). So I know now my problem lies in the AM9 Sub. My question is what other Bose Subs will this receiver and 5 cube speakers work with just in case I see one available somewhere. I called Bose and they said they would refurbish the whole system for a flat fee of $225. Thx, _lmac |
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New member Username: StrobesPost Number: 2 Registered: Jul-08 | Lmacdaddy, I have the same problem display on Lifestyle Model 5 Music Center is dark, and searching forum have not found the fix, can you post the link to the Mark's post? Or please tell me the the location (Cxx) of the cap I need to replace. Thank you! Alex |
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New member Username: StrobesPost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-08 | Ok, I traced back all your post, Lmacdaddy and found it: C19, use either a 47ufd or preferably a 33ufd @ 50,63 or 100 VDC... Will see if this fixes my problems. |
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New member Username: AltrePost Number: 3 Registered: Jul-08 | hello im trying to update the sofware of my lifestyle 18, im tryng to install the adapt iq and i get the following error sofware update failed 100 call bose can anyone help me thanks in advance |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 111 Registered: May-07 | To all I have had the pleasure of conversing with all these months, I regret that due to personal reasons I will be unable to continue posting here at least temporarily. I hope to resolve this in the near future but when that will be, I am really not sure. Thanks to all for your understanding. Sincerely Mark B |
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New member Username: Hombreman007Mxico, Chalco Mexico Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-08 | Hello Mark That is a bad news, but I wish you the best and I hope to "see" you posting here again, good luck and God bless you. |
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New member Username: StuartradgeMelbourne, Victoria Australia Post Number: 1 Registered: Aug-08 | Hi Mark I wish you all the best with your personal life.... you are a truly unselfish person and have helped many thousands of people through your dedication and sharing of many years of invaluable experience. Best S |
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New member Username: CadteacherPost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-08 | Mark, Thanks in advance, your help here is greatly appreciated. I just got a Lifestyles Model 5 Music Center made in Sept 95. The serial is U 266292. This is not a V2. My friend gave it to me because it stopped working. He claims that for a while it could only be operated by remote and then it completely died a few months later. I checked the transformer with my vom and found 0 volts. So I guess I need a new transformer. Is there something else I should check first? Is it likely there is a short in the unit and that is the reason for the fried transformer? I do have a fairly good understanding of electronics and can replace components on the board. Thanks, Andy |
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New member Username: VadgePost Number: 1 Registered: Aug-08 | Mark, It appears you're more knowledgeable than anyone I've encountered regarding Bose systems. I have a Lifestyle 48 system that is about 2 years old. Recently it started showing the following symptoms: the only function that works is the "stored music" feature. And that function is barely audible with lots of static. All other functions (DVD, CD, SAT/CAB, etc) do not produce any sound. The remote music stations powered from the same Lifestyle 48 (in our yard and bathroom) exhibit the same problems. Any ideas? |
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New member Username: BoseunluckyPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-08 | I really could use some advice. I purchased a Bose Lifestyle V20 system in the USA and brought it back to my home in Thailand. Prior to purchasing it, I asked many times if the system would work with the different voltage and the salesman checked and told me that the system came with a built in dual voltage regulator; apparently not!!! I plugged it in and nothing came on! I am assuming that I burnt the power supply, but in your opinion, could something else may have occurred besides the power supply? I really would appreciate your immediate response. I'm dying to listen to it and haven't once since I bought it. Thank you in advance. | |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 112 Registered: May-07 | Robert, The V10/20/30 series systems were sold with one of three power paks listed below. If yours is the USA/Canada version, then chances are at minimum, you blew an internal fuse in the power pak. Having never seen one of these systems I have no idea whether or not the power pak inards are accessible and even if they were, if it's the version referred to above you are out of luck. In any case you need to verify which type of power pak you have before comming to any conclusions. The info should be printed on the power pak somewhere. You need either the International or the Dual voltage type for where you are. hope this helps. Mark B. USA/Canada: Input - 120V, 0.55A, 50/60 Hz Output - 33VDC, 1.1A International: Input - 220-240V, 0.30A, 50/60 Hz Output -- 33VDC, 1.1A Dual voltage: Input - 115/230V, 0.55A, 50/60 Hz Output -- 33VDC, 1.1A |
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New member Username: WadaviesPost Number: 6 Registered: Mar-08 | Welcome back Mark, you've been sorely missed at this forum |
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New member Username: Kool_dawgSydney, New South Wales Australia Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-08 | Hi guys and a special welcome back to Mark "The king of Bose". Thank you in advance. See if you have seen this before.Could not find anything on the previous posts. I have a Lifestyle 12 series II system with AM25 Series II sub and Model 5 V2 music centre. All I did was disconnect the system, reposition and reconnect. When I switch it on,the music centre works,I get a very faint music out of the cube speakers but no sound out of the sub. I have used the remote and music centre to increase the volume but no joy.I have opened up the sub (thanks to your previous post on how to)and nothing seems to be burnt. Appreciate your help. |
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New member Username: KannamssPost Number: 2 Registered: Oct-08 | Dear Mark(The King of Bose), MY sub stopped giving out real bass a few days back. It still works but without real Bass output. Is there any way I could fix it by Myself? The fuses and everything seem in good working condition. Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 113 Registered: May-07 | Kool_dawg, Are you sure you are using the same outputs you were before? There are "Fixed" and "Variable" output jacks on the console. Try using the other set. Another thing to try is resetting the parameters in the sub to their default settings. I have attached the page which explains how to do this. Mb  |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 114 Registered: May-07 | Kannamss, You failed to mention the model number of your Bose subwoofer. Would be helpful to know as there are umpteen dozen of them out there. 8^) |
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New member Username: KannamssPost Number: 3 Registered: Oct-08 | It is a acoustimass 10 non-powered unit. I also have a kenwood powered sub which is having the same problem. | |
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New member Username: Kool_dawgSydney, New South Wales Australia Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-08 | Thanks Mark. Yes I have plugged in the same connections as before. I have tried the reset but no luck.I have tried the output A and B but it is still the same.It sounds as if the sound wants to come through but it is not amplified.I can hear the music very faintly with a backgroud "shhhhhh" noise.What can I check for next? My brother is a electronics technician but he needs the schematics/service manual to troubleshoot.I can ask him to check as per your request.Thanks again for your help. | |
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New member Username: RealtorayLebec, CA US Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi Mark, I have read all your posts and its very nice of you to help everyone here on this site. I hope all is well for you. I have a Bose lifestyle 30 Series 11 (two) system. I just took my console into a repair shop because the cd changer was stuck and would not eject. They fixed that issue and charged me $288.00 . It took about two weeks. I just brought it home and connected it and my system played for about 4 minutes then the speakers went off. I held one jewel cube up close to my ear and I can hear a faint static but no music. I tried all my imputs, TV, DVD, CD etc and all are dead. I turned the system off and waited about 10 minutes and turned it back on and it worked great for about 4 minutes and the speakers shut off again. If I repeat the process of turning it off and on it works everytime for about 4 minutes and then shuts off the speakers. I opened up the case using your instructions (thank you for those). I checked to see if this Acoustimass 30 has LED'S and i did not see any even with the cover off. I don't see any LED lights or anything that looks powered on. I can see the fuse under the plate and it appers to be okay. I read where you were talking about Crystals. Is that something that may be wrong here? I checked the bottom of the unit to see if there was a model number on the Acoustimass sub woofer but it just says Acoustimass 30 series 11 (two). I bought it new about 6 years ago. Thank you for any help. Sorry for the long post. Ray |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 115 Registered: May-07 | Ray, Yes it sounds very much like the crystal problem. Part number for new crystal is 254053. If you are adept at soldering/desoldering then it may be possible for you to replace the crystal yourself. If not then it means a trip to the repair shop. I have no idea what they would charge you for that repair but from the $288.00 CD20 repair I'd be willing to bet it won't be cheap. Let me know how you want to proceed. Send me your email address and I will send you the bulliten refering to that particular malady. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 116 Registered: May-07 | Kannamss, Sorry for the delay in responding. The only thing that could be wrong with your subwoofer would be if one of the woofers had failed (there are two) or if there is a bad connection on the crossover PCB. You'll have to get inside the housing and check the woofers with a ohm meter. If you need a manual then send me your email address and I will attach one to my reply. It's too big to post here. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 117 Registered: May-07 | Kool-Dawg, I'm sending the schematics and service manual to your hotmail email address. Hope they help you. Mark B. |
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New member Username: KannamssPost Number: 4 Registered: Oct-08 | Mark you are great. My sincere thanks. My email address is kannamss@lycos.com. My kenwood sub powers On but no sound what should I check first. Everything else seems to be in good condition. | |
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New member Username: RealtorayLebec, CA US Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi Mark, Thank you for your help. I would like to get that bulletin regarding the changing of the Crystal and any schematic you might have. I have a friend that know's how to solder and he says he can help me if I get the part and I know where it goes. I tried to send you a private message with my e mail address but the system said that you do not accept private messages. I will just try to leave it here (rayraysr@gmail.com). Does my unit have the LED lights that you had someone else look for in a previous post? I also saw that you told someone with another model of Acoustimass sub that there was a switchblock with four switches. I don't see that on my model either. Just wondering if I just don't see them or if my model just doesn't have those items. Thanks again for your help! Ray |
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New member Username: Kool_dawgSydney, New South Wales Australia Post Number: 3 Registered: Oct-08 | Thanks Mark. Got the schematics. Will work on it this weekend and let you know of the results. you are a God sent. | |
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New member Username: JandaneHolbk, ??? Danmark Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | My Bose Acoustimass 3 gives a humming sound - and I need to find a wireing diagram somewhere. Can anyone help?? | |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 118 Registered: May-07 | Jan, Your prints are on the way to your email address. 'Course by the time you read this they will already be there. 8^) Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 119 Registered: May-07 | Ray, Don't bother looking for the LED's or the switchblock. They are on the LifeStyle 18's, 28's and 38's. Whole different animal. Your bulletin is on the way to your email address. Kannamss, Your prints too are on the way to your email address. Good luck you guys. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 120 Registered: May-07 | Oh, I almost forgot. Kannamss, I don't have a clue about your Kenwood sub. I used to have all the Kenwood prints here in paper form but I tossed them along with about 10,000 other schematics. Mark B. |
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New member Username: JandaneHolbk, ??? Danmark Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | Mark . You are a genious! Thanks from "the overseas" colonies... Jan |
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New member Username: RealtorayLebec, CA US Post Number: 3 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi Mark, Thank you for the bulletin and the help. I sent you an e mail with my address. I tried to call the BOSE service center to buy the crystal but they would not sell it to me. They said they only sell parts to a factory authorized service center. I would greatly appreciate it if you could mail me one. Thank you for your help. Ray |
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New member Username: ExgazerFort Worth, TX United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | Hello, has anyone come across a source for the black vinyl coving the AM 15 sub? Mine has been shrinking over the years due to heat and has now pulled away from the edges by over 3/8". It looks terrible. Any help would be greatly appreciated full, thanks | |
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New member Username: MaxtateEpiskopi, Episkopi Cyprus Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | Hello, I have a AM5 which is refusing to work, sound comes from the headphones jack but not the subwoofer or speakers. It does light up but it does not respond to retseting the power or via the remote. I have checked the main fuse on the subwoofer and thats ok; there is no on switch on the subwoofer and and nothing to indicate that its on. I am based in Cyprus and don't know what to try next. If I were in England I would just take it to a repair shop! | |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 121 Registered: May-07 | Keith, What you're looking for is Naughahyde. It's a brand name of vinyl covering used on virtually all Bose subs as well a million other products. Google it for sources. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 122 Registered: May-07 | Max, I have sent you a troubleshooting guide and schematics for your AM5P. See what you can figure out from them. Mark B. |
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New member Username: XsubzerozPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-08 | Hello Mark, First of all I would like to say you are awesome for helping out people. I see you've answered and helped everyone in some sort of way and anyone here will agree with me. Just like most of people I've experienced problem with my Acoustimass 25 Series II speaker system. The system came with Lifestyle Model 5 Music Center. I got the system from my brother in-law because it stopped working for him, no sound. I was planning to take it to the repair shop but one day I was turning CD ON on the remote and heard crackling noise through speakers but no sound. I tried again CD ON then OFF (no sound), again CD ON then OFF and same thing for about 10 times and sound came on but shut off after ~30sec. I tried again same process and it worked again for longer time and shut off. After half a dozen tries the sound stayed and didn't shut off. Until recently I tried to do same thing but it seems like I need to turn the system ON-OFF-ON-OFF... much more then I used to. Any ideas what could be wrong? I tried using Music Center unit with my Kenwood system and it works fine so I believe the problem is with the subwoofer. Thanks. |
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New member Username: KamagongManilaPhilippines Post Number: 7 Registered: Aug-07 | Hi Mark, Can you please help me out with following; I would like to know the IMPEDANCE and the FREQUENCY RANGE of the 8" WOOFER Part Number 181870-013 of the 301 SERIES IV DIRECT/REFLECTING SPEAKER SYSTEM and as well as the IMPEDANCE and the FREQUENCY RANGE of the 5.25" WOOFER ASSY, Part Number 190170 of the Acoustimass 10 Series II Loudspeaker System Thanks again for your help From John |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 123 Registered: May-07 | John, I sent you an email requesting your email address so I can send you the documents you're looking for. MB |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 124 Registered: May-07 | Steve, Your problem is exactly the same as Raymond Ray was experiencing. You need the 40mhz crystal, part number 254053. As Raymond found out, you can't get it from Bose since they won't sell it to you. I have 2 left but I need a mailing address to send you one. My email address is mr3dzpop@bellsouth.net if you wish to contact me directly. I will also send you the bulletin describing the problem and the location of the crystal. MB |
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New member Username: MaxtateEpiskopi, Episkopi Cyprus Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi Mark, Once again you are proved to be a worthy recipient of the 'Good guy of the year award' my AM5 problem turned out to be an internal fuse issue, once changed all is noisy! Thanks for your help mate. |
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New member Username: Kiwi_jeffPost Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi Mark, I have had a hunted through the above posts and possibly found a discussion that relates to an issue I have but I wanted to question you a bit further seeing as you are a guru on all things Bose. So I have a lifestyle 5 Music Centre (sept 94)and I am trying to get this working with an Acoustimass 8 speaker system (1997). My Music Centre appears to work (CD's play, I can get output from the headphones jack) however there is no sound out of the Acoustimass 8 sub/speakers. I have the luxury of having a second identical system so by the process of elimination have found the Acoustimass 8 Speaker system works with another LifeStyle 5 Music centre. So I have concluded it is the Music Centre that appears to have the issue. I figured it may be a configuration issue but I have tried everything I could find about this system to change configuration without success. As it happens I also have an Acoustimass 6 Home Theatre Speaker system. This came with the other systems I purchased on Trademe (New Zealand equivalent of e-bay). This system appears to be driven from an amplified source as there is no power connected to the sub-woofer. I have connected the problematic LifeStyle 5 Music Centre to this Acoustimass 6 speaker system and interestingly there is low volume music coming from the speakers. The output was from the Fixed output on the problematic Music Centre. I got a similar volume sound when connecting the headphones output to the Acoustimass 6 Speaker System. So to me it appears there is a proper output from the fixed output that just needs amplification. I would have thought the Acoustimass 8 Speaker system would have been able to take this signal and amplify it. So in summary there is signal on the fixed output RCA connectors on the problematic Music Centre but for some reason when I connect the Acoustimass 8 Speaker system to this Music Centre the speaker system does not register the Music Centre and possiblty not even turn on. As I mentioned the Acoustimass 8 speaker system works prefectly with another Music Centre and I have also checked all the cables and these appear fine as well. Any idea what might be happening? The post that sounded similar refered to the main micro as having failed (originally posted by Retired_Bob I think). Perhaps this is the same issue? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff |
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New member Username: AmoldcPost Number: 10 Registered: Dec-07 | Mark, I have a general question. Apprecaite if you can answer. My Samsung DVD-R155 Player got accidentally connected to 220V and it gave a smoke. I immediately disconnected it. Will I be able to repair this? I was looking for service manuals and could not find one. Will it be simple fuse replacement or more has got damaged. I love this player and would like to repair it. Thanks for your help.. you are god for us... |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 125 Registered: May-07 | Jeff, I appreciate you doing so much preliminary work and narrowing the possibilites. You are indeed correct in your assumtion that the console is the root of the problem. I will assume that when you checked the AM8 with a seperate console you were using the same cable which would eliminate the possibility of a defective cable. What you are no doubt experiencing is the lack of the 10 volt turn on voltage being sent by the console to power on the AM8. Not sure you have a CD5 or a CD5V2. In both types however there is a common failure with the jack breaking connections on the main PC board. There is also the possibility that a surface mount 27 ohm resistor may have failed; R23 in the CD5V2 or R428 on the CD5. This resistor is located on the bottom of the main board near the aforementioned jack. In either case you will have to open the console and remove the main board to gain access to these problem spots. To open the console, remove the 4 screws securing the covers. If you look closely on the back of the console, you will see 4 small retaining tabs holding the covers in place. Insert a small flat head screwdriver and release these tabs and the covers will swing up towards the front of the console and off. Disconnect the connectors from the CD unit, remove the display board and then the main PC board below. All the goodies you need to get at are in the back far left corner of the main PC board. There's a 99% chance your problem lies there. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 126 Registered: May-07 | Amol, In a word... NO. Most current DVD players incorporate a SMPS (switch-mode power supply) and this power supply is considered a single part. Normally there are no component level parts available for the power supply. The good news though, is that the damage incurred with the application of 220 volts is normally limited to the power supply only and the rest of the player should be OK. I don't know that I can help you with sourcing the power supply. I don't think I have manuals for this particular DVD player but I will check. If you have a local repair shop you might want to check with them and see if they service that particular brand of DVD player. Mark B. |
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Bronze Member Username: AmoldcPost Number: 11 Registered: Dec-07 | Thanks Mark. Appreciate your help.. Let me know if you get your hands on a service manual.. I checked some websites which are asking US 29.99 just for the manual...  Best Regards, Amol |
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New member Username: Kiwi_jeffPost Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi Mark, Thank you very much for the reply, I really appreciate you taking the time to help. In asnswer to your question above, yes I have eliminated the cable. Can you please confirm for me when you refer to the "jack" you are talking about the 2 System Control jacks? I have the unit opened and the main board removed and I can see a couple of surface mount resistors on the underneath of the board close to the System Control jacks that might be the culprits. None of these resistors are labeled on the underside of the board so I am finding it hard to tell what resistor could be R23 or R428. Do you have any other clues to allow me to track this resistor down? You also refered to a common problem of the jack breaking connections on the main board. Can you please let me know any further details about this possible failure. Thanks again for your help. Regards, Jeff |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 127 Registered: May-07 | Jeff, Yes I am referring to the system jacks (the two green female). The resistor in question should be marked with "270" in very small print. One end of that resistor will connect directly to one of the pins of the jacks. As for the dual jack itself, look at where it attaches to the PC board on the botton. Make sure all connections appear intact. Resoldering the connections couldn't hurt and may reveal a ringed connection. (one that looks OK but isn't) If you send me your email address I can send you the board layouts and the schematics to help you identify the resistor in question. I notice you didn't leave your's in your profile. My email address is above in my Post 124 |
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New member Username: Kool_dawgSydney, New South Wales Australia Post Number: 4 Registered: Oct-08 | Hi Mark After a bit of t/shooting,I have hit a dead end.I get a 10V turn on signal on the board.1.2v is sitting on pin 1 of U300.However there is no voltage on either side of R307 to turn on Q303. Any suggestions? Thanks once again mate. |
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New member Username: KamagongManilaPhilippines Post Number: 8 Registered: Aug-07 | Thanks Mark, I truly appreciate your help. By the way I check the impedance of the 8" woofer, it seems to be 6 ohms, I was a little surprised since I'm not knowledgeable like you when it comes to the know hows of Bose speakers Can you possibly confirm if this is correct since I was in the believe most speaker are either 4 or 8 ohms. Thanks again, From John |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 128 Registered: May-07 | John, Speaker impedence can be 3.2,4,6,8,12,16, and 24 ohms. In your case 6 ohms is correct. Sub speakers normally have a lower impedence because they are handling much more raw power than a normal range speaker. Also remember that were speaking "impedence" not to be confused with resistance. The impedence of a speaker can vary while being driven. This is known a s dynamic impedence and not something just anyone can measure without the proper equipment. I know, TMI... my bad. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 129 Registered: May-07 | Mashood, If you have 1.2V on pin 1 of U300 then there has to be 1.2V on one side of R307 since one side is common to pin 1. The fact that you have 1.2V on pin 1 is good, it means that the internal LED is on and the opto coupler should be working. If either Q302 or Q303 were on then the sub would be in cutoff mode invoked by the protection circuit. If you want to test the sub to make sure it is turning on, put a small 50 watt light bulb in series with the power going to the sub. When you turn on the sub, the lamp should light up a bit. You can also check the AC going to the transformer by checking across pins 1 and 5 of the transformer connector; should read apx 120VAC or 240VAC depending on where you are. Also check R312 or R313 between U300 and D302 (triac). If it's open the sub will not come on. It should be marked 101 in tiny print. It's a 100 ohm resistor. Now go do your homework. 8^) Mark B. |
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New member Username: Kool_dawgSydney, New South Wales Australia Post Number: 5 Registered: Oct-08 | Mark Checked as suggested.I get 240vac on pin 4 as well as pin 6 of U300.Voltage on transformer pin 1 and 5 is 240vac. Funny thing is while I was checking for voltage and accidently pulled one of the fixed output leads of the music centre,sound came on for 2 seconds and system shutdown.What next your highness? |
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New member Username: HstreatOklahoma USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hello, I need help with my Lifestyle 20 music center with AM 25 series II powered sub. I have been following the earlier discussions and believe I need to replace the 40MHz crystal. The sound cuts off after a short period. I know how to get in the box but don't know where to find the crystal. Also, where can I buy the crystal? Thanks for any help. | |
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New member Username: Robert_scottPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Mark, I am at my wits end here and thought you might be able to help. While listening to our Lifestyle 5 series 3 at low volume last night, we heard a "pop" and the sound went off. Display unit still lights up and all other remote functions work with no sound. I have been able to take apart the AM5 module to check the fuse and it tests good. Any help would be greatly appreaciated. | |
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New member Username: Robert_scottPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 12:27 pm: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Jeff, I appreciate you doing so much preliminary work and narrowing the possibilites. You are indeed correct in your assumtion that the console is the root of the problem. I will assume that when you checked the AM8 with a seperate console you were using the same cable which would eliminate the possibility of a defective cable. What you are no doubt experiencing is the lack of the 10 volt turn on voltage being sent by the console to power on the AM8. Not sure you have a CD5 or a CD5V2. In both types however there is a common failure with the jack breaking connections on the main PC board. There is also the possibility that a surface mount 27 ohm resistor may have failed; R23 in the CD5V2 or R428 on the CD5. This resistor is located on the bottom of the main board near the aforementioned jack. In either case you will have to open the console and remove the main board to gain access to these problem spots. To open the console, remove the 4 screws securing the covers. If you look closely on the back of the console, you will see 4 small retaining tabs holding the covers in place. Insert a small flat head screwdriver and release these tabs and the covers will swing up towards the front of the console and off. Disconnect the connectors from the CD unit, remove the display board and then the main PC board below. All the goodies you need to get at are in the back far left corner of the main PC board. There's a 99% chance your problem lies there. Mark B. Mark, In reference to the above post by you, I have found the fried resistor as mentioned above. The one right next to it is not burned, and has a 331 inprinted on it. If you could confirm that they are the same, or provide a Digikey part number or the specs on that resistor I certainly could repair it without being a burden any longer. Your expertise is amazing. I cant believe you led me on the right path. Thanks in advance. Bob |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 130 Registered: May-07 | Bob, The resistor in question is a 27ohm 1/8 watt surface mounted resistor. You may replace it with a 1/4 watt 27 ohm axial lead resistor. Just carefully attach one leg of the resistor to one pad of the removed toasted one and the other leg to the other side. That resistor is in series with the 10V turn-on voltage going to the Subwoofer. The "331" on the other resistor means it's a 330 ohm and it is used to couple the digital information to the cable going to the subwoofer. It should be fine. If you wish to purchase a surface mount resistor from Digikey that will be fine too. You have the specs now and should have no trouble finding one on their website. Hope this helps. Mark B. |
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New member Username: Robert_scottPost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-08 | Mark. I just wanted to thank you again for taking the time to help me. You are a rare breed my friend. I have ordered the parts and will give it a whirl when they come in. I have purchased extras if anyone you might know needs them, feel free to ask. Thanks so much. Bob | |
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New member Username: Phoenix79Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Mr. Burgess, any chance that you could answer Horacio Alamilla G.'s question located here Also what are the pinouts for the newer series III bass, the Zone 2 expansion on Lifestyle series 1 and the Boselink on the newer systems. I hope that you can help, and thanks for sticking with this conversation |
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New member Username: JaestoPost Number: 8 Registered: Dec-08 | I have a Bose lifestyle 28/35 with a PS48 subwoofer. It has worked great for several years but all of a sudden it sounds like a helicopter or a machine gun. Something like "tha tha tha tha tha tha". I have disconnected the media unit (AV28) from the subwoofer, one speaker at a time, and all sorts of combination without any luck. The horrible sounds comes from the center speaker and subwoofer. No sound comes out of the other 4 speakers. If I disconnect the center speaker wires from the powered subwoofer then the sound comes only from the subwoofer. If I disconnect all the wires from the PS48 to the 5 speakers the sound keps coming from the subwoofer. Does anybody know what the problem could be. I am trying to fix this myself or locally without having to get Bose involved and pay an arm and a leg to repair. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 131 Registered: May-07 | Phoenix, Unfortunately I cannot find any information for the pinout of the cable... yet. I am still looking. As for the other stuff I must admit I haven't seen any of this stuff. I have not worked with Bose equipment in over 2 years. I am no longer in consumer electronics and have moved on to industrial electronics exclusively. Sorry I can't be of help. If I come across the cable pinouts I will get them to you. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 132 Registered: May-07 | Jaesto, What you are no doubt experiencing is a "hole" in memory. During the digital processing of audio signals it passes through a series of memory IC's. What you have described is the classic symtoms of a memory "hole" or damaged area of memory the cannot be overwritten. As the signal cycles through this area of memory the digital signiture is lost and you get the noise you are hearing. This is NOT a DIY candidate. Bose has a flat rate of $165.00 to service the console and the sub. They will repair it, update both pieces to the current software installment and I believe they warranty the repair for at least 90 days. My professional opinion is to go this route. The insides of a PS48 is not for the uninitiated by any means. I am attaching the current FLAT RATE sheet. Mark B.
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 133 Registered: May-07 | Jaesto, As an added FYI, the problem could exist in either the console OR the sub so be sure to include both pieces if you decide to go the Bose repair route. MB |
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New member Username: Wolff46Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | hey, im not sure if its ok to thread jack here, but im at wits end and you all seem to know what you're doing... i have a Bose Companion CS-6 surround sound unit, i have lost my remote and IR receiver unit, Bose will send me the remote, but they no longer make the IR receiver unit. any idea what the pinout might be? it looks like a ps2 plug or something. does anyone know whether it's just a straight ir receiver diode or something i can DIY or if it has other circuitry in the receiver? ( wolff46@hotmail.com ) | |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 134 Registered: May-07 | Jacob, I have sent all the info you need to build an IR receiver for the CS6 including the IR remote receiver modules and where to get them to your email address at hotmail. I am assuming you still have the interconnect cable. The connector you are referring to is a 6 pin Mini DIN. Good luck with your endeavors. Mark B. |
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New member Username: KamagongManilaPhilippines Post Number: 9 Registered: Aug-07 | Hi Mark Merry Christmas From John |
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New member Username: RpmsandersPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi, new to the forum and hoping someone can help. I recently purchased a Bose AC10 system from the USA and brought it back to Australia. Not always but most times the system is powered up there is a loud continuous deep hum from the subwoofer. I am using a 240-110V stepdown transformer and have tried 2 different brands with no success. Placement of the unit makes no difference. Thanks in advence guys. | |
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New member Username: MarlonpPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | hello, i have a bose lifestyle 12. i think the subwoofer i messed up. i plugged in a headset and i can listen to muisic but nothing is coming out of the speakers and the subwoofer. i thought it is just a simple case of a fuse that has blown out but when i opened the subwoofer, the fuse is good. any ideas? |
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New member Username: MarlonpPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | further to my earlier post, i should have mentioned that i have an am9p and i was playing my bose on a very high volume thanks again in advance and i hope you all had a merry christmas |
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New member Username: JeepinguyPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Mark, Many thanks for all of your efforts here. I have a lifestyle 28 that i purchased new about 2 years ago. Upon my arrival from a recent deployment(i am active duty U.S. Marine Corps) i turned on my system and got a very intermittenet sound. as i attempted to trouble shoot the problem, (checking speaker wires and connections at the media center) i noticed that the sound was getting worse (less and less sound) i turned the unit off and unplugged all of the power for 60 secods per the bose website and literature that came with the system. once i plugged the system back in, i was surprised to find, that i had no sound now. Instead of relying on the s-video type wire that connects the media center to the bass module, i decided to use the alternate audio output rca jacks. The sound is perfect and clear as it goes thru the tv speakers. Before it completely died thru the bass module, it sounded like there was one speaker wire that was either dirty, or loose. However, this loose/dirty connection was effecting ALL of the speakers at the same time. Thanx in advance for any help you can provide me to help fix this issue. |
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New member Username: AlauWoodlands, Singapore Singapore Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi Mark and All, I have been reading this forum for a few weeks now. It have been very helpful to hobbyist like myself. Need something to occupy my free time during all these factory shutdowns... I help a friend to repair his Bose Lifestyle 25. His AM 9 (I assume)has a blown fuse. Thanks the instruction to open up the cover I read in earlier post. I am impressed with the sound those small speakers produced. So i tried to build myself a Bose system with parts i bought from eBay. My friend help carry the Music Center and the Am of Lifestyle 30 i got from eBay from US back to Singapore for me. I am seriously in his debt They looks similar to his Lifestyle 25. Music Center is OK, but unfortunately the AM is not working. Unlike my friends system, the Am from US has no voltage switching feature. So i use a Step Down PSU from 240V 50Hz to 120V 50Hz. When power up, with MC, the subwoofer is growling. Then when volume turned to minimum, still have background noise, but lesser. But if volume turned up, can hear music from CD on subwoofer, rather than growling. During all this time, the 3 sat speakers no sound. I have been swapping cards with my friends working unit. The AM works. So, the problem comes from first PC cards - the one with all the power cord, speakers and signal cable from MC. Have been changing some parts - X600, Q605 but still same. There is a Model number written on card from bad unit 193227 Rev00. My Friends cards (working) is a similar, but with a voltage switching S601, and short of some Caps, C158, C259 &C258.. his card have Model number 188574, Rev 01. Can you help advise what i should do next.. My email is alau6388@yahoo.co.uk do drop me a line, or some schematics.... Thanks in advance for your help. alau |
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New member Username: ManofhamPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi Mark I've read through all these posts and am impressed by your knowledge! I'm trying to fix a Lifestyle 5 V2. Two issues: 1. The remote doesn't work. I have tried resetting it by pressing the store button while it is off and remote buttons but no luck 2. It is stuck on full volume. I suspect the button to turn the volume down doesn't work (can't check if it works via RC due to issue 1). I want to open it up and see if I can do anything but haven't figured out how - do you know? Any help with either of these two probs greatly appreciated! Thanks, Hamish |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 135 Registered: May-07 | Hamish, Shake your remote! If it rattles or clunks then no doubt the antenna has broken loose from the PC board. Open the remote and resolder the antenna to the PC board and everything should be OK. If you are still having problems with the volume control then it could be that the volume IC is defective. This is a rare occurance so fix the remote first and then see if you still have no control over the volume. Mark B. |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 136 Registered: May-07 | Alau, I need to know what model the AM subwoofer is. Internally it should be able to be reconfigured to work on 220-240VAC. The European version has a switch but the US version has to be converted internally. Post this information and I will try to get you going without all the bothersome hum you are experiencing. Mark B. |
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New member Username: RpmsandersPost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi, new to the forum and hoping someone can help. I recently purchased a Bose AC10 system from the USA and brought it back to Australia. Not always but most times the system is powered up there is a loud continuous deep hum from the subwoofer. I am using a 240-110V stepdown transformer and have tried 2 different brands with no success. Placement of the unit makes no difference. Thanks in advance guys. | |
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New member Username: AlauWoodlands, Singapore Singapore Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi Mark, How are you? I looked at the label under the AM.. Did not say much - only LifeStyle 30 Home Theater System. And the power rating, 120VAC, 50/60Hz 350W max... Unfortunately, it did not indicate what type of AM it is... tried the manual as well.. but not much there..pretty general info in there. Th AM is Black, US model with No voltage switching ... Do you need a photo? Do let me know if you need any other info... Thanks you.. Alau |
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Silver Member Username: Mr3dzpopWoodstock, Georgia USA Post Number: 137 Registered: May-07 | Mark, I have looked extensively and I cannot find any information regarding an AC10 system. What exactly are the components of the system? Give me this information and maybe I can help you resolve your problem. Mark B. |
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New member Username: XsanchezCebu, Cebu Phil Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi, Good day! I recently bought a bose companion 5 speaker system in US. I accindentally plugged it into 220V(ASIA) outlet. The control pod seem to be working still since it is lit and responds when I touch it, but there is no output on the speakers. Can I ask for any assistance? May I also ask for MARK BURGESS' email? He seems to know a lot about BOSE system Thank you, Xerseus Boni Sanchez Software Development Lear Corporation (032) 340-7950 |
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New member Username: XsanchezCebu, Cebu Phil Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | hello, BTW, my email add is: xsanchez@lear.com. hope to hear from u soon. thanks |
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New member Username: RpmsandersPost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi Mark, I have a AC10 system connected to a Yamaha RX V1800. The amp is 240 volt and the Bose system is a US sourced unit used in conjunction with a 240-110 volt step down transformer. It's strange in that often it will operate fine and other times the hum is so annoying it's difficult to be in the room. I haven't really tried too much to remedy it in case I do the wrong thing. I have read up on many sites and it seems to be some form of interference but with no comprehensive fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated. To give you guys an indication of the savings, an AC10 system here in Australia is $2400 and I got mine for just over AUD$1000 in the US. Thanks in advance. |
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