Polk Combinations

 

New member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 10
Registered: Aug-05
Any suggestions on this configuration.
Polk->>
2 Monitor 50 - $350
2 Fxi3 - $300
1 CSi3 - $180
1 PSW12 - $220

I already exceeded my budget. So donot suggest anything expensive. Thanks for your advise.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kano

Post Number: 609
Registered: Oct-04
I would try to substitute the 2 Monitor 50s for the Rti line, the Rti6 would be a better performer, if you want a floorstander get the Rti8, I love it.

The PSW12 is truly crap you would be better off going elsewhere, a DIY dub from www.partsexpress.com would kill it as would the $400 SVS PB-10ISD

www.svsubwoofers.com
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 11
Registered: Aug-05
ok
RTI8 - 630
Fxi3 - 300
CSi3 - 180

I dropped the subwoofer. It is out of budget will the bass from RTi8 impressive. Will take STF2/3 later. Will it sound bad without a sub?
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1695
Registered: Mar-05
sri,

at least 50% depends on your receiver/amp...usually the ones who provide the highest current (notice I didn't say "watts per channel") also deliver better bass response because good bass requires quality power not paper-tiger marketing-BS specs, and the bigger the speaker the more quality power it will require to sound its best.

That's one reason so many people these days buy bookshelves with a powered sub running a high pass filter, it's cheaper and sounds better than most floorstanders in the same price range without requiring a much more expensive receiver/amp.

With a run of the mill receiver (under say $700) I'd gladly take a cheap pair of bookshelves and an entry level sub totalling say $700 over a $700 pair of floorstanders any day.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 12
Registered: Aug-05
Thanks Edster.
Ok...I am confused. Here is my receiver
http://www.sherwoodusa.com/prod_rd6108.html

Is it good for these speakers. I like floor standers. They look good and the reviews for RTi8 are good. I really have no idea about the parameters of judging two speakers. What bookshelves would you suggest if I want to find a substitute for RTi8? Thx.
-Sri
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1698
Registered: Mar-05
I may be wrong since I've never listened to that Sherwood, but I wouldn't expect a $150-200 analog receiver to be able to power floorstanders to their full potential.

Since it sounds like you're mainly doing HT I'd put at least half of your budget into a good sub, at least a Hsu STF-2 or SVS PB10, both are around $400, or if you have a huge room the STF-3 for $600.

Instead of floorstanders I'd go with a smaller bookshelf that does mids and highs well:

The surrounds can be practically anything and IMO don't even need to be the same brand as the fronts, unless you listen to lots of multichannel SACD/DVD-A music. The key is an excellent center channel (does at least 50% of the work---most of the dialogue), and a competent pair of fronts which are timbre matched (same brand, preferably same model line) with the center.

Since it looks like you have around $1100 budget here are some possibilities:

Ascend 170 L/R + Ascend 340 center + Hsu STF-2 subwoofer (ascendacoustics.com) + Athena AS-B1 (audioadvisor.com) as surrounds, $1150.

Polk RTi6 L/R + Polk CSi5 center + Polk R15 surrounds (crutchfield.com) + Hsu STF-2 (hsuresearch.com), $1150. You can use the RTi4s instead if you want to save $100.

The Ascends are significantly better but they are Internet direct meaning that you can't audition them in a shop beforehand, though they do have a 30 day return period and many people find local Ascend owners to go listen through their forum. Also with Internet direct you're not paying for the brick-and-mortar markup, so (theoretically) you are getting better quality for the same or less money. I personally couldn't find anything better locally in the same price bracket as the Ascends when I was speaker shopping.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 13
Registered: Aug-05
Edster,
Thank you very much. This was the best detailed advise I ever got. Can you tell me what is the difference between VTF and STF (not the technical details in simple english). I am more likely go with Ascend configuration. Also what other options do I have for surround (Athena AS-B1).
-Sri
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1701
Registered: Mar-05
The VTF series are more adjustable---you can plug or unplug ports in the back to suit your needs and tastes. However even Dr. Hsu says that most VTF owners usually have their subs set at the same setting as the STF's default---the STFs therefore are IMO a better value unless you are truly a kick-in-the-guts bass fiend.

If you want to spend more on the surrounds, you'd probably be fine with the Polk RTi4s for $240/pair.

Or if you want to go with Ascend surrounds (better timbre matching if doing multichannel music) you can use either the 170s or the 200s, the 200s have the advantage of allowing you to put them flush against a wall because they're not rear ported like the 170s.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kano

Post Number: 610
Registered: Oct-04
I disagree with Edster's recommendation of R15s for surrounds, stick with the Fxi3 or 5 they are truly excellent for music or movies. Edster may believe surrounds don't really matter and you could just as well throw bose in the mix, but then again he's changed his mind about many things he's recently integrated into his system.

The Rti8 may indeed be more speaker than your receiver can handle. I use a Harman Kardon AVR430 and only start getting good bass response as I approach reference level.

I'd suggest the Rti6s for fronts, the Csi3 for centre and the Fxi3 for surrounds.

The Csi5, while very good may be too much speaker to have along side the Rti6s.

 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 14
Registered: Aug-05
Ok here is the final configuration

CBM-170 front pr + CMT-340 center + HTM-200 surround pr + STF-2 sub
$1,198.00+$73.00

Given my room details Dr.HSU suggested STF3. Any final thoughts before I pull the trigger. Thx and really appreciate your help.
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1706
Registered: Mar-05
Sri,

Sounds like you're about to make yourself VERY happy!

I'd get the STF-3 mainly if you want REALLY bone-shaking bass, unless your room really is humongous.
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1707
Registered: Mar-05
Kano,

> But then again he's changed his mind about many things he's recently integrated into his system.

Well mainly about the importance of the power source being at least equal to that of speakers, but what else?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 15
Registered: Aug-05
Thanks Edd.
He he he .. these are going with my new 50" plasma :-). Where did u buy your speaker stands from. Ebay? Some inexpensive ones. Any suggestions.
-Sri
 

Silver Member
Username: Kano

Post Number: 611
Registered: Oct-04
I was predicting the future for when you buy a better quality CD and DVD player.

I really do encourage you to have a listen to some decent di-pole surround speakers. Their ability to move the sound between the fronts and surrounds is very impressive. Also they can blast it right at you when that's what's suppoosed to be played.

I didn't really notice the capabilites of my surrounds until I purchased the Denon DVD2910. For some reason my previous player (Panasonic F-65 5 disc) really muddied up the sound going to the surrounds, I don't know if it was the shared DACs across channels, or some other reason, but I can assure you the result was amazing.

It's those two major things that annoy me about your posts. Both the recommendation of as cheap as possible DVD player and surround speakers. I really encourage you to do a trial return on some good gear to see the plain as day differences it will make in your system.
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1715
Registered: Mar-05
I bought these mu-30s from amazon.com for around $80/pair shipped:

http://www.wood-tech.com/product.php?cat=ss&series=mu

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00009W5R9

You can also check out these, they're 6" taller:

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=90143824&loc=111&sp=1

The Wood Technology stands are very nice looking, affordable, functional and easy to assemble.

You can also look at accessories4less.com and partsexpress.com for great values in speaker stands.
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1720
Registered: Mar-05
Kano,

I could IMAGINE that if I had some huge state of the art TV and really LOVED movies with impressive sound effects, that I MIGHT come around to your appreciation of a higher grade DVD-P and dipole surrounds. But I don't...and frankly I don't think most people who have big screen TVs necessarily do either. Frankly I think that many people who even bother with surrounds are just dupes to sales and marketing hype---similar to an office worker who buys a Ford F-150.

However if someone is on a tight budget, regardless of whether they fit those two criteria, I would still say that these are much lower priorities than getting a decent receiver/amp, front 3 speakers and subwoofer...certainly at the outset.

As for the higher end DVD player I actually have been shown the Denon in a home theater shop and in comparison with a $100 Sony, fed to a far better TV than mine...and like I found with expensive CDPs, the difference was subtle not dramatic, and therefore IMO not worth tripling or quadrupling the expenditure.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 16
Registered: Aug-05
I will have to get a DVD which can upconvert video but not immediately. If I think of converting to 7.1 from 5.1 then I might consider Kano's suggestion as I watch more movies than I listening to music. Thanks Edd for the speaker stand links. I have one final question the cables. Which one and why? I don't think these speakers come with wires. Thx. -Sri
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1732
Registered: Mar-05
People with extremely high end systems claim that certain cables can enhance the sound, with a low- to mid-priced system I have never heard that claim.

Scientifically these cable claims make zero sense whatsoever, but a few people swear by their cables nonetheless while others (like me) are skeptical to say the least.

Personally I'd just go with any 12-16 gauge generic cable from Walmart or Home Depot. Some people (Jan Vigne for example) even recommend using simple Home Depot thick lamp cord that goes for maybe 10 cents a foot.

Whatever you do don't buy anything from Monster, they're the Bose of cables.

Good places to buy cables online: partsexpress.com, bluejeancables.com, accessories4less.com
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 17
Registered: Aug-05
I finally got my Ascend
CBM-170 front pr + CMT-340 center + HTM-200 surround pr + STF-3 sub

I haven't connected the Sub yet. But I am very diappointed with the performance of the speakers. The five speaker performance is worse than my 3.1 Acoustimass Bose. I am surprised watz going on. Is it my amp? My tuning...I am completely lost. I haven't connected the speaker stands yet.

This is my receiver.

http://www.sherwoodusa.com/prod_rd6108.html
Manual: http://www.sherwoodusa.com/pdf/RD6108.pdf

I don't understand which mode to set. How should I connect my subwoofer. Can you tell me how the connections should be?

Please Please help me. I had high hopes from these speakers.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 18
Registered: Aug-05
What receiver are you guys using. I would like to test my speakers with them. Also please tell me the settings. Thx.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 19
Registered: Aug-05
I have simply connected the 5 speaker connections on the receiver. Watz up with the CMT-340 with low and high freq. conncetions. I shorted them. They provided a jack to short them and connected my centre speaker connections to it.
I tried to run a DVD with Dolby and set mode of my receiver to Dolby and it is bad performance. Just to hear the speakers average volume I had to raise the volume to 75%.Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1982
Registered: Mar-05
Some people don't like a neutral speaker if they are used to a highly colored sound. I would never think that EVERYONE who tries them will necessarily love them. However, if the Ascends/Hsu sound worse than even a Bose Acoustimass to your ears, there are only two possible explanations:

1. You have completely screwed up the connections and setup beyond belief.

2. You need to get your hearing checked.

As for possibility #1:

- check that you have connected all the speakers in correct phase

- when listening to music, turn off all DSP modes (these are the stupid "Live" or "Concert Hall" settings that just muck up the signal), just use stereo mode with subwoofer turned "on" and crossover set at 80Hz.

- have your subwoofer's crossover settings set correctly (see Hsu manual) and that it's connected to the receiver correctly.

- calibrate the speakers using the Sherwood's own test tones (if available) or if not get the Avia setup DVD

- make sure the speakers are elevated and positioned properly in your room. Tweeters should be ear level to your listening position, the fronts should be at least 12-18" from the wall, L/R mains preferably tilted in towards your position.

- and of course: read the manuals, read the manuals, read the manuals.

And uh, no your $150 Sherwood is not what I'd call a great receiver but I doubt it's the sole cause of all this.

I have used my Ascends on a Marantz 5400, NAD separates, and recently a Panasonic sa-xr55 all digital receiver. The Ascends are not difficult to drive at 8 ohms and +89db sensitivity, but they are extremely revealing of any flaws in the system, whether it's a bad receiver or a bad CD player.

Lastly if you are unable to figure it out yourself, give Ascend a call at their 1-800 number, they are known to be extremely helpful over the phone.
 

Anonymous
 
save your breath, Edster. This Sri fella sounds like he needs to read a manual just to change a light bulb!
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1984
Registered: Mar-05
btw Sri, you might want to look at this link:

http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Hollow/3401/ratevsac.htm?20055

The next model up Sherwood, the RD-7108, claims to have 100wpc but actually tested for 57wpc before clipping.

So maybe a big part of it MIGHT be the receiver?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 20
Registered: Aug-05
should I connect my sub using a subwoofer PRE-OUT connection from my receiver to L and R of SUB IN?

Well as I said I have not connect my sub yet. Secondly I have not received my speaker stands yet.

I will check the speakers connections. But I checked them 3 times already. I have been tuning my receiver and not liking any setting yet. When does one use Stereo option (for music?).

As per my ears I am not the only one feeling the under performance of the setup.
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1985
Registered: Mar-05
The 170s were DESIGNED to be used with a sub so if you don't have the Hsu connected you are only getting down to 70Hz which means you're missing even mid-bass, let alone the truly deep bass.

Yes, connect the subwoofer pre-out to the sub-in. You can use a Y-adapter for a little extra headroom but with something as powerful as an STF-3 you probably won't need it.

I didn't bother to read the Sherwood manual, that's your job. Just turn off all extra sound tweaks. Listening to 2-channel music on 5 speakers is usually piss-poor compared to just using the front mains and sub. If a receiver sounds bad without any special FX or tone settings, then you know it's a bad receiver.
 

Anonymous
 
I repeat: this Sri fella does not sound like the brightest of lightbulbs...
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1987
Registered: Mar-05
> I have simply connected the 5 speaker connections on the receiver. Watz up with the CMT-340 with low and high freq. conncetions. I shorted them.

WHOA, you shorted the speakers or the receiver?

Good God above. It might be worth it for you to pay somebody to come over and set this up for you in that case.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 21
Registered: Aug-05
Does a 6CH Direct input means a 5.1 configuration?
I am using Analog signal from my source DVD to receiver. Should I use Digital signals? I have to get Y cable to connect my sub.

I will give it a try. Thx
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 22
Registered: Aug-05
:-)..no It came shorted with jumpers. As you know centre channel has 4 inputs. Hi-freq and low-freq (Woofer input and Tweeter input) The Reds and Blacks are shorted. My receiver has only two centre channel outputs.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 24
Registered: Aug-05
As per the manual this shorting is called Biwiring.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 25
Registered: Aug-05
Here it is.
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Kano

Post Number: 673
Registered: Oct-04
Shouldn't you plug the speaker wire into the top terminals?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 26
Registered: Aug-05
All my connections were good. It was the receiver. The stereo mode uses only F L/R and sub. I hooked up the woofer now. Wow! this woofer is awesome. It is a beast. Even the Dolby uses 2 channels. So 3 of my speakers were never used. Now I play the music in one of the DSP modes PL II Matix and it sounds awesome. I tried some movies and I still not satisfied (with my receiver I guess). I can't blame the speakers. Thanks Ed for your prompt response. I still have to make it perfect.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 27
Registered: Aug-05
>Shouldn't you plug the speaker wire into the top terminals?

What do u mean Kano?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 28
Registered: Aug-05
Kano! that would blow this up.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kano

Post Number: 674
Registered: Oct-04
I think I remember reading that you should plug the speaker wire into the tweeter terminals.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 29
Registered: Aug-05
What difference does it make since woofer and tweeter connections are shorted.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 30
Registered: Aug-05
At last I bought a digital connection from my DVD player and configured it to Dolby. The HT system is a blast. WoW!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now I have to figure out the fine tuning. Any inputs are appreciated.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 31
Registered: Aug-05
>I repeat: this Sri fella does not sound like the brightest of lightbulbs...

I specialize in Mathematics, Finance and Computers...As Ed said I didn't hook up the whole system. And my test audio signals were bad.
 

Gold Member
Username: Edster922

Abubala, Ababala The Occupation

Post Number: 1991
Registered: Mar-05
Good to hear you seem to have worked out most of the kinks, Sri. I would still call Ascend on Monday if I were you, they'll be happy to walk you through everything. Also if you are a Netflix member, you can rent that Avia DVD...a lot of HT people swear by it.

I am a little confused with how you are using the word "to short"---I thought you were talking about SHORT CIRCUITING, which would be a *most* unfortunate thing.

BTW is the Sherwood still within its return period? If it is I'd suggest looking in the Panasonic sa-xr55 for just an extra $80, it is a spectacular receiver in that price range and has more power than analog receivers costing several times more and even more than some separates.

Go to the "Receivers" section and read the long thread "Edster's Panny xr55" if you're curious.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sbshilag

Post Number: 32
Registered: Aug-05
No I bought my receiver 2 yrs back. But I will sure consider when I upgrade my receiver as you see I already exceeded my budget to 1500 from 1100. But STF3 is worth every penny.

Well technically biwiring is shorting but ya not the +ve and -ve. I did that when I was ten I got a 220V shock and house fuse blew up :-).

Thanks for your help. I will check the thread.
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