Help with some stuff

 

Bill J
Unregistered guest
i have posted on here before, but really people tell me different things. I have a 1995 chevy lumina with a fast and furious 12" subs and amp. A few months after i got it my battery and alt both died. I got a new 100 amp alt. from napa and a napa gold battery. My system is relatively week compared to other peoples. My lights still dim on some songs. What can i do to make sure i do not wreck all my stuff again? please help cuz everyone has been saying differant things.
 

New member
Username: Motoman22

Post Number: 50
Registered: 12-2003
Step one: Replace the charge lead from your alternator to your battery. Use SOLID connectors on each end and use at least 8ga power cable. 100 amps is a strong alt but the crap used by GM to carry that current just doesn't cut it...especially after almost 10 years of baking in that location.

Step two: Make sure you are using the proper size power and ground wire for your amp and make sure you have SOLID connections everywhere. Skimpy power wire actually uses more power than fat power wire when the demand is high. Without knowing more about your amp, can't get much more detailed here but 4ga should be adequate for anything under 300 watts.

Step three: Check the ground connections, flaky grounds cause all sorts of headache. It's always a good idea to run an ADDITIONAL ground from the battery (-) to the body of the car...not the subframe. We're not talking lamp cord here, use the same size cable that carries (+) back to your amp(s.)

Past that, I don't like Napa stuff so I'll just keep my mouth shut about other possible causes. My bet is that the power supply chain is inadequate...
 

Billy J
Unregistered guest
i have the amp that came along with the f&f package from best buy.
 

New member
Username: Newb

Post Number: 53
Registered: 12-2003
hey moto is there a formula b/t amp pwr and what gauge amp wires u need? ie 200-300w rms amp 4gauge, 100-200w 8gauge.
 

New member
Username: Motoman22

Post Number: 51
Registered: 12-2003
There is a formula you can use, it takes length and current into account...but I don't know it off the top of my head and it's not like we have that many choices. I suggested 4ga for this instance because I doubt the amplifier will pull more than 40amps continuous and the car isn't all that long. The bigger the cable the higher the expense, it's a balancing act really. Overkill is preferable to not enough but I wouldn't recommend anything over 2ga. That stuff is as big around as a grown man's thumb and getting it from the engine compartment back to the trunk is not easy unless you strip the interior first. Even then it's not fun..

I know Glasswolf posted some really helpful links in the Accessories section not long ago. They take you to sites that explain quite a bit of this stuff. Check around in there, you'll find it. Most of the install kit manufacturers have suggestions as well...not so sure how thought-out they are but it's a start.
 

New member
Username: Motoman22

Post Number: 52
Registered: 12-2003
p.s. With speaker wire and RCA cords, quality and brand DO make a difference. However, power cable is power cable to be honest. There are various types of cable but most of it is 92+% OFC (oxygen free copper) so the differences are mostly looks. Yes, 99% OFC is better than 91% OFC but those who would notice the difference have the backing to get the best anyway.

Short story: If you don't want to pay the $2/foot or more for brand name cable, call a local welding supply store. They have 6, 4, and 2 ga power cable that works fine even if ugly. It's plain old black coated OFC but it costs less than half the brand name stuff and has super-duty insulation. Finely stranded, easy to bend (think of it's designed application) and you usually get more than you pay for as far as length goes.

Just a tip I figured out the hard way.
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