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New member Username: HiphopanonymousPost Number: 2 Registered: 12-2003 | i have this crappy 10 in my car just for the hell of it. i was probably bumpin it for about a week or so and then i find out, that my sub was all frozen up. wat's up with that? too much power, or wat? i push it as hard as i can but it won't go down at all. |
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New member Username: GlasswolfPost Number: 122 Registered: 12-2003 | not too much power most likely, but the gains on your amp were probably set too high to compensate for an actual lack of power, causing the amplifier to clip. when amplifiers go into clipping, they send square wave voltage to the speakers, which translates to DC voltage. when a voice coil gets DC voltage, it turns the coil into a heating element, and the coil quickly burns up, causing teh cone to "freeze" in such a manner as you've described. Time for new subs, and a better and more powerful amplifier. Also be sure the electrical system of your car is able to handle the power of the amplifier. If it isn't and your lights dim when bass hits, etc, this is also a sign that the amplifier(s) is/are clipping, too. That emans time for a bigger alternator as well. Be sure you also use a proper gauge amp wiring kit. |
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Anonymous | i have a question, glasswolf. i have a jl 500/1 and a 300/4 in my mazda. occasionally, the lights dim when the bass hits. you said that this is a sign that the amps are clipping, but they arent even turned up that loud and they definatley dont sound like they are clipping. i need a capacitor, but the amps cant really be clipping could they? |
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New member Username: GlasswolfPost Number: 236 Registered: 12-2003 | if the lights are dimming, your voltage rails are sagging. You're lucky in that your JL amps have regulated power supplies as well as regulated output stages so actually no your amps may not be clipping quite yet, as they'll reduce the output to stabilize the voltage rails. normally when voltage rails from the alternator sag like that, the voltage will drop from the usual 13.5VDC down to say, 10 or 11 volts. when that happens, the amplifiers can't produce a clean sine wave, and a square wave is generated. that causes DC voltage to be sent to the speakers, causing the voice voils to produce large amounts of heat. that in turn will damage the subs. in your case, since the lights are only dimming on occasion, and not too badly, a capacitor may actually help.. but more often than not, what will actually happen is that the alternator will get worked even harder to keep the capacitor charged, but the symptoms themselves will be masked by the capacitor, due to the cap's ability to smooth out the spikes in current demand. the demand is still there, but it's not coming in spikes, so your lights will be continuously dimmer instead of dimming more drastically for brief moments, and this will lead you to think everyhting is fine. at least till you fry that alternator. see here to learn more: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm and here: http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm and here: http://www.bcae1.com/capacitr.htm |
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New member Username: ChippaPost Number: 28 Registered: 12-2003 | So Wolf. you think that R.I.P.S. is worth it. Is it easier on the cars electrical system??? |
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New member Username: GlasswolfPost Number: 362 Registered: 12-2003 | not any easier on the car's electrical system no. what it does is protect the amplifier to an extent, from clipping and damage. It's no compensation for a sufficient charging system in the car, but having a regulated power supply and output stage is a ncie feature for teh most part. I'm not sure I like having the regulated output personally.. if I drop the impedance, I rather like having the power increase.. but that's just me. If I wanted a resistive load for the amplifier, I'd present that with a proper crossover and driver design, not by fixing the poutput of the amp. |