Help with wiring a 55 Chevy
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New member Username: TeomcdohlWantagh, Ny USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jul-04 | I just bought a 1955 Chevy. As many of you may not know, the car comes with a generator, a radio with a tube and one speaker in the dash. This cannot do! I took out the speaker in the dash, put in two tweeters, two speakers in the front doors, two speakers in the back doors, and two speakers in the area above the trunk. Here is my problem - - Because I have eight speakers inside the car (I plan to put subs in later) will the deck have enough power for the speakers in the car or will i need an amp for that? how does that work? what happens when i get two amps? will I need a capicator? finally, i have read about changing the battery cables from 8ga to 4ga.. is this reccomended? what about the wire from the battery to the sub (currently ran 8ga) from the top of my head the speakers are 2 pioneer in the front door, 220w speakers(6.5in), the back doors have sony xplods 250w (6.5 in) and the back are sony xplods 6x9 350w. the tweeters are.. 300w each. those are all the specs, any advice on what kind of amps to buy, what i need? i saw someone and they said sony xplods suck.. and i was like ahh damn, but it should still sound good i figure for not spending a lot. help needed!! (email teomcdohl@hotmail.com)... sorry im a new user dont know if replies go to my email. thanks! |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 4290 Registered: Dec-03 | oi vey. where to start. a shoebox project car huh? you may want to jsut drop in a newer crate motor with an alternator, electronic ignition and distributor, etc.. like a smallblock 350. that' be a big help. anyway you'll want to put an alternator into the car for this added current draw. you'll need 4ga cable at least for the alternator, ground, battery etc. you'll need amplifiers for the speakers. a had unit is only made to handle a 4 ohm load, so one speaker per channel more or less, or one component set. as for a capacitor it won't replace the need for the alternator. sony is about the worst car audio company around, for the record.. or at least very close to it. you need to be ready to spend some money when you take on a project like a 55 chevy. I'm doing a '66 charger right now, from the frame up and by the time that car is done I'll have over $25K into it I'm sure, and that's a conservative guess. |
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New member Username: TeomcdohlWantagh, Ny USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-04 | my idea is to eventually drop a new tranny, engine, ect.. 327 with 4 deuces. right now there is a 235 v6 (straight 6) in there. itll be nice, but im working on the sound system just for starters... money isnt an easy thing to come by. from the ground up... id say closer to 50k on your resto. that sounds nice though. any suggestions on good car audio companies(speakers, subs, ect)? i also have some good links for old cars if you're interested. as for amps, what do you suggest? ive heard that i would need them bridged if i had two, and how would i hook the amps up to the speakers?(in the car - do i need to run wire to each one from the amp?) im fairly new at this stuff but i'm a quick learner. i needed to run all new wire just to get a "test" deck to work (to see if the speakers were mounted correctly, rattling, good sound, ect). also my regular car is a 97 altima. i tried to wire a deck in there awhile back.. big mistake. i screwed it up. on the chevy there are only 3 wires - constant 12v, 12v on switch and a ground. where the hell do the memory and all of those cables go in? thanks for your input, this really helps. you can also contact me on aim (dancinplayboy) if you use it. |
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New member Username: TeomcdohlWantagh, Ny USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-04 | my idea is to eventually drop a new tranny, engine, ect.. 327 with 4 deuces. right now there is a 235 v6 (straight 6) in there. itll be nice, but im working on the sound system just for starters... money isnt an easy thing to come by. from the ground up... id say closer to 50k on your resto. that sounds nice though. any suggestions on good car audio companies(speakers, subs, ect)? i also have some good links for old cars if you're interested. as for amps, what do you suggest? ive heard that i would need them bridged if i had two, and how would i hook the amps up to the speakers?(in the car - do i need to run wire to each one from the amp?) im fairly new at this stuff but i'm a quick learner. i needed to run all new wire just to get a "test" deck to work (to see if the speakers were mounted correctly, rattling, good sound, ect). also my regular car is a 97 altima. i tried to wire a deck in there awhile back.. big mistake. i screwed it up. on the chevy there are only 3 wires - constant 12v, 12v on switch and a ground. where the hell do the memory and all of those cables go in? thanks for your input, this really helps. you can also contact me on aim (dancinplayboy) if you use it.(also i wanted to know what COULD help before i put an alternator in, thats why i asked about the gauge wire.) |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 872 Registered: May-04 | Go with a single component set (6.5") up front and leave it at that. It'll make things much simpler and will sound better. Although if you've already installed the 8 speakers you will have to do some work to repair the cutouts you've already made. 8 speakers won't sound as good as a set of quality front components with a proper amp and good installation (phase issues, different locations in soundstage, etc. come into play with so many speakers). Get a good 2 channel amplifier to push those, you don't need to bridge an amp, just get an amp that puts out the recommended power at 4 ohms. Then you can eventually consider a subwoofer (or multiple subs) and amp for it/those. I know these vehicles are very expensive, how much are you willing to dedicate into the sound system alone? As far as an alternator, I'd go ahead and get an alternator that fits a small block Chevy, a 327 and 350 are essentially the same on the outside (I like 327's better  ), and you can find high output units very easily (go with around 200 amps depending on how much power you'll have in your system) then have a machine shop fabricate a bracket to mount the alternator to the straight six's current generator location. As far as battery and alt. cable, it really depends on how much power you're going to give the system. Once you tell me how much you're willing to invest I can help you out a little more. |
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New member Username: TeomcdohlWantagh, Ny USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Jul-04 | well the tweeters are mounted and the doors are the only problem. so you're suggesting to get rid of the tweeters and the back door ones and work from there, correct? as far as the alt, thats not a bad idea, im thinking of a 327 (ive heard from numerous people its a smoother running engine, ect) and from there is all i can think of. as for running wire, youd have to run the wire from the speaker to the amp to get the additional power to work? as far as the 8 speakers go, would it be possible to keep the set up? its not terrible actually -- i was using a design thats used in modern day cars such as the newer infiniti's (my girlfriends mother has a beatiful infinity that has a system much like the chevys im setting up) - i actually tested it with a 22x4 deck and it sounded pretty good... id rather not move from this current set up to be quite honest. as far as mounting the speakers, it wasn't done half assed - it sounds good and all.. (i did take a class on music and the waves, i know they have to be in sync and whatnot or they fight against each other) just id hate to have to go back on the work i did. do you think there is a way to get it to work with the way ive set it up now (with the 8??) as far as cars go im clueless but if you put me in home audio im a whiz... =X thanks for your help, i really appreciate it. if you can answer this id be very appreciative too =D |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 873 Registered: May-04 | You can run those speakers for now, but you'll be drastically underpowering them and it will lack SQ. You also risk speaker damage due to clipping if you listen at louder levels. You'll need to wire each pair of speakers in series to a channel of the amplifier to present an 8 ohm load, as the head unit cannot handle a 2 ohm load. Here's my recommendation for a future upgrade that you could do piece by piece as you save your money: 1. In the front doors, eventually put a quality 6.5" component system up front, then you can mount the tweeters from that either where you have the tweeters now, or in the door closer to the woofer. 2. In the rear doors where the Sony's are: eventually save for a good set of midbasses of the same size and band limit them to only play from 150hz to around 3khz. This will provide a solid rear fill, and won't drown out your front components, giving you a proper soundstage. It will give just enough rear fill to offer presence, just as you would in a concert. 3. Package tray (above the trunk) if you can fit them, then mount a pair of 8" subwoofers or 10" subs in an infinite baffle (free air) application, or with an aperiodic membrane. This will offer great sound quality if installed and dampened correctly. Separate the airspace from the trunk and the cabin as this is needed for best SQ from an infinite baffle or aperiodic installation, maybe you could separate this in the form of a board for an amp rack (flush mounted) or such, then possibly separate the air even more via expanding foam and sound deadener. 4. Get a quality 4 channel amplifier for the components and midbass, the rear fill should be mono and you can accomplish this in two ways: a. to get a 4 channel in which the rear channels can be switched to mono or b. wire the midbasses in series, then bridge the rear channel of the amplifier for the 8 ohm load (the power will be the same as if you had the speakers on two independant channels). Ideally you'll use less power on the rear speakers, so a 4 channel that has lower power output on the rear channel (JL Audio 450/4 is an example) is a good choice as the power isn't wasted. 5. Of course, get a quality amplifier to push the subwoofers with. You will need a quality head unit with the capabilities of controlling the amplifiers (3 sets of preouts, possibly crossover controls, etc. also a fader and other general capabilities) so consider that as well. For now: Consider a crossover for the front speakers and tweeters up top. The crossover will send a band limited signal, and will allow the head unit to see a 4 ohm load total, so you can run the fronts at 4 ohms. Basically, put the HPF on the tweeters up top and the LPF on the coaxials in the doors. Wire the pairs in the back in series, for an 8 ohm load to each channel of the head unit. This will cut down the sound, ideal for a good soundstage anyway, and won't strain the head unit. I know this sounds like a lot and will get expensive, but I'm just giving you options that will give much better SQ down the road and you won't have to alter your current installation (with the exception of the rear package tray above the trunk). Car stereo is far from home audio, less speakers are better, at least until the point where you will have surround sound processing on all music material. As far as the 8 speaker stock systems go, they are phase matched, also they don't come with tweeters on the rear drivers unlike the coaxials you're using, so the soundstage will be more realistic. Let me know what you think. |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 874 Registered: May-04 | By the way, a lot of the reason I said you'll see phase issues is b/c of different speaker brands as well, on top of location of the speakers. Different speakers have different inductance, mass, etc. that effects transient response and the timing, that's why less is more usually. With midbasses as rear fill, this isn't as much of an issue as they are merely used for presence instead of musicality. As far as the 327, I like the way it runs a lot better, on top of the fact that the 350 is EVERYWHERE, even in Fords and Dodges because of it's smaller size and simplicity. I'd much rather see a 327 on the road. They usually run better and last longer as well, and are a smoother running engine in my opinion as well. |
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New member Username: TeomcdohlWantagh, Ny USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Jul-04 | holy crap. that was freaking awesome. i like your ideas a lot, right now the tweeters and front speakers are wired together and so are the back doors and the package tray. everything has seperate wires so basically i can tie them together at the front for my own sake. as for upgrading the speakers, i will do that when i have more cash (the reason i bought the car is that my twin brother passed away.. it was something for my father and i to work on, money is tight) ill upgrade the speakers to match. right now i have the tweeters on the dash. number one i understand. (im replying this step by step to make sure i get it all.) number two is a great idea, so id get 6.5s to play good bass. damn, im glad i found this message board.(please provide brands that you personally suggest, this would help). number 3 im not quite sure. there isnt very much room in that space , the 6x9s fit well.. im sure i could find a way to get the subs in there. its not easy because the lines for the trunk (metal poles and such that keep the trunk on the hinges) block the way. i think it might be possible to do that... it would just take some creativity and CAREFUL measurements. i get what you're saying, get a box and mount it up there on top where the 6x9s are.. correct? number 4. id need two amps, 1 for the front doors and tweeters and the 2nd one for the subs in the package tray and the back door, right? thats pretty good, i get what you're saying. as for ohms, im not quite sure i understand much on that, i mean ive done some basics but its been awhile since ive actually applied it.. i really need to understand it. as for wiring the speakers in the back in series.. crap. thats all i have to say. youd have to see the car to understand... wiring it was a pain in the butt so im not sure. ill take a look. but yeah. thanks a lot for your help, keep in touch. as for other things, the 327 was my fathers idea. he wants 4 deuces and he has this whole setup in his mind. i found a website that makes custom manifolds and such... im also interested in converting to power brakes/steering. so far im just fixing things that are broken/ dont involve the engine/tranny/rear end. so that means i can do steering, brakes and vanity. its a great project and i find myself spending a lot of time on it. if you have any ideas for the engine.. id be willing to listen =D thanks! |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 876 Registered: May-04 | I meant one amp (4 channel) for the front components and rear door midbasses eventually, then an independant amp for the subs in the package tray (if you can fit them). An idea is to possibly try to find hood hinges with springs, and replace the bars for the trunk hinge with those, or hydraulic shocks for the trunk (smallest option you have, just like the ones on minivans and SUV's). Not too terrible if you're good with metal fabrication. Then mount the subs free air on the rear package tray just as you did the 6x9's. Flush mount them, not a box, a box would look awful lol. You'd be using the trunk as an enclosure, don't worry, it sounds great with the right subs. Aperiodic membranes are fantastic as well, and offer more control and the best SQ you'll get out of a sub. If you can't fit the subs back there, you could couple the trunk and cabin (connect the airspace via perforated holes in the package tray or an open space totally cut out) and let the subs breathe into the cabin for SQ and SPL purposes, then possibly cover that area with a sort of fabric that will allow air to pass so it won't look bad. I'm planning to do another 67 mustang fastback in the future, a little less extreme than my last one. With my old one I found a 427 SOHC motor in a junkyard, then rebuilt it and had Comp Cams make custom ground cams for it, 2 Holley double pumper 750 cfm carbs on the stock intake, headers, I ported and polished the heads, as well as upgrading the other little things like the cooling, charging systems and brakes. For exhaust I eventually used Car Chemistry collector inserts (these are awesome, sound just like open headers, just quieter). Stainless Steel Brakes make great conversion kits and are pretty easy to install. Didn't have power steering, but manual steering isn't that bad once you get up to speed, and less maintenance and more power. I had about 800 hp once it was said and done with, on 93 pump gas, hit 10 sec quarter mile times with over 100 lbs of audio equipment in the car, plus full upholstery. As far as the 327, sounds awesome. I don't know what you're aiming for, but with 4 dueces I'm guessing horsepower and the occasional cruise-in. I considered 8 1 barrel webers for a 289 I built a while back, 4 dueces would be great as well. Mainly for show though (the webers I mean), for driveability I'd probably break down and get an Edelbrock Pro Flo fuel injection system now, or stick to a 4 barrel. AFR cylinder heads are fantastic, lots of people around here use them. Edelbrocks are great as well. Just make sure the bottom end is built solid, I'd go with forged pistons, stronger crank, rods, bearings, etc. with that setup. I like MSD ignition, that's just me though. Hooker headers are great, very well built. Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers are going to be my next choice, very well built and I like the low end torque benefit of tri-y's. Transmission it's really your preference, I prefer a 4 or 5 speed in an older car. I like rowing my own gears, just gives a sense of control. |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 877 Registered: May-04 | Oh, and you'll definately want to consider a larger cam with that setup. Comp Cams and Crane are excellent, I'd go pretty big with it if you're looking for power and showing off. Lopey idles are just awesome, with the 327 I'd go with something the size of a Comp Cams 280H, or the Crane equivalent in duration and lift, that is IF you build the rest of the engine accordingly. The Xtreme Energy cams are very nice, too. That'll give you a wicked idle and some very good top end horsepower. |
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New member Username: TeomcdohlWantagh, Ny USA Post Number: 6 Registered: Jul-04 | makes me wanna go out and buy a block right now, haha. i found a block on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908855627&ca tegory=33615) that looked not so bad. i figured i couldve used that and changed parts as i saw fit. my father wanted a rear end out of a corvette, a 5spd tranny and we'd go from there. personally... im thinking about supercharging it. heres the link to the deuces site (http://www.parts123.com/PartFrame.asp?ZTM=cadegdha&GHOME=www.vintagespeed.com&TI TLE=VINTAGE_SPEED) its a pretty cool site - you can get 6 deuces. that with a 327, the right tranny, right rear end.. super charger.. and you'd be flying down the track. to be honest, i want it to be fast so i can laugh at all of the ricers but i want it to be practical. if i wanted to go nuts id just put a 454 or anything in. the engine compartment is sooo big in the 55. right now there are two gaping holes. its pretty sick. as for the setup, i completely understand. thanks for all the info, im gonna sleep for the night but if you have aim im always on (dancinplayboy) msn (teomcdohl@hotmail.com) and thats about it. id like to talk to you some other time, peace! i also have some questions with home audio, i have a sick setup in my room but i wanna make it a little easier... but thats for another time. thanks! |
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