Which would be more practical please???
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New member Username: Raidernation87Post Number: 1 Registered: Jun-14 | I have two 12" kicker cvr dual 4 ohm subs 400 rms each, I also have a dual amp 2 channel pba2150 does 150 watts rms at 4 ohms bridged, my question is would I notice a difference in loudness if I added the second sub instead of just wiring one sub and only coil on that sub, since my amp is no where near the power I need to power even one sub properly, I'm not gonna have money to buy a new amp till September so this is all I got for the time being, so one sub only one coil at 4 ohms bridged 1.75 cubes ported around 40 hz or two subs series parallel to get 4 ohms bridged in a 2 cubes sealed separate space but one box still. Thanks for any opinions or advice |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1934 Registered: May-09 | Using the two subs you can source 150W to them, using only one sub on one coil may be not too nice solution. If you plan on using those subs long term build a 5 cubes net common chamber box tuned to 35Hz, 60 square inches of port area and get this amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34507_Hifonics-HFI1000.1D-HFI-1000.1D.html Wire all parallel to 1 ohm. It will at least give the 750-800W RMS the subs need. Just sell the crap amp you have and add some pocket change to buy the new one suggested. Best of luck. |
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New member Username: Raidernation87Post Number: 2 Registered: Jun-14 | Thank you very much joe for the response, should I upgrade my big three with that amp and think about a ho alt also, I currently have a 2001 civic 1.7 liter everything stock still, if so any ideas where I can get a good quality alt for the long run, and a car audio battery that should be sufficient but not over doing it , I'm trying to buy just one item one check at a time till school starts again I'm a teacher just trying to get through the summer on my saved income, I get paid once a month , if it's not to much trouble maybe let me know which items you think are a bigger priority to buy before the other, thank you again for any help |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1937 Registered: May-09 | The amp suggested won't really deliver the rated 1000W claimed but it will deliver just about what the subs need, I would do a 0AWG big 3 upgrade, and to help your stock alt get a deep cycle battery and for that amp 4AWG lines to the amp, depending on use an HO alt would be needed or not, get a $10 voltage gauge and if you keep 13V or above most of the time while playing you are good to go, for a formal reference on the topic, you can read the following: http://www.termpro.com/asp/pubs.asp?ID=117 If you get really serious about car audio overtime I would suggest to ask at CACO,SMD or SSA (to name a few) forums, this WAS the best forum years back but there's no one left here, I just come around every once on a while. |
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New member Username: Raidernation87Post Number: 3 Registered: Jun-14 | So my box outside dimensions I'm making is 15" height, 40" wide and 19.5 inches deep using 3/4 mdf comes to 5.41 cubes with one slot vent at 4.5" by 13.5" height gives me 60.75 square inches of port area, to get a tuning of 35 hz according to the12volt I need a port length of 18 inches, now I understand all that , what I'm trying to understand is does the 12volt think that' 5.41 is the internal volume after the port displacement or before port displacement , is my port displacement only 18" by 13.5 by the 3/4 mdf to get like .1 cubic feet plus .14 for two subs plus .1 for bracing 8 4" triangle pieces, total of .34 displacement. Or is the port displacement 4.5" by 13.5 by 18" which is .63 cubic feet plus .14 for subs plus .1 for bracing total of .87. What I'm trying to figure out is what will my total net volume be after displacement and exactly how long do I need to cut my slot port lengrth to get 35 hz after all the displacement values, Sorry if I confused you but thank you for your help, just trying to get as close as I can to 5 cubes. 60 square inches of port area and tuned to 35 hz |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1938 Registered: May-09 | Assuming you have a trunk car, the following can be done in the dimensions you give, 4.5 net is good, usually building a cardboard box is necessary to make sure the actual box won't get stuck in it's way in, set the amp subsonic filter to 28Hz. Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 4.5 ft^3 External Height = 15 in External Width = 40 in External Depth = 19.625 in Port Width = 4 1/2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 34 3/4 x 13 1/2 Back = 40 x 13 1/2 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 18 1/8 x 13 1/2 Side 2 = 18 7/8 x 13 1/2 Top & Bottom = 40 x 19 5/8 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 13 5/8 x 13 1/2 Extension = 1 3/8 x 13 1/2  |
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New member Username: Raidernation87Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-14 | Looks sweet!!! Thank you for that . what type of material should I use or works best for the internal bracing you got going on in that design, looks like I'm going to get that amp after all, thank you for all your input I have an old kenwood kdc252u head unit I'm going to install also, nothing special just something to get me through till I can get a better hu, looking to get either an older eclipse hu with at least 5 volt preouts or an older model pioneer premier with the same, haven't been around car audio since about 2006 when I first was introduced to this forum when guys like you and glass wolf were on here a lot so kinda lost when it comes to newer and quality head units. I'll�let you know how it turns out when I get it all installed. Pretty pumped to finally get it all going |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1939 Registered: May-09 | 1 1/4" wooden dowel rods which you can get @ home depot, you can have your linear cuts done there for free, use wood glue and drywall screws to join the parts, and you will need a jigsaw for the sub cutouts. Your HU will do for now, is not that old, tech has advanced a lot, you see 24 bit DACs even on cheap HUs these days, price wise Pioneer has got the lead over Alpine but they are still great both, if you get an older premier HU watch out for the picofuse issue, and the removable front plate head units, most had the ribbon cable issue unless you know how to fix those. Glad you got to know Glasswolf and the few other knowledgeable guys, who knows where these guys end up, guess by now they are too old to drive..lol. Get to read something on amp installation and gains settings (and setting the subsonic filter) those are really important get great performance while saving energy. Looking forward to see how it went and what you did. |
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New member Username: Raidernation87Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-14 | So for the extra 30 bucks I could get the hfi 1500d and I see a lot of people pair those with my subs, would it be an extreme overpowering or good match |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1940 Registered: May-09 | Why not, better headroom and runs cooler but it has to be setup properly to care for the subs and your electrical. |
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