Geo Metro XCON build

 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 899
Registered: Oct-10
SSA XCON d2 12" going ported into a 1996 Geo Metro 3 door, 3 cylinder. I am running a Pioner DEH-P7700mp HU and 4x MB Quart FSB-216 6.5" components. 2 in the doors and 2 right behind the seats in the side panel. They have passive crossovers and 2 tweets on the windshield and 2 tweets on the back side windows. The amp will be a Sundown SAE 1200d. Things will be going slow due to time and money constraints. I appreciate any suggestions or opinions. Stay tuned!
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 900
Registered: Oct-10
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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 901
Registered: Oct-10
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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 902
Registered: Oct-10
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peel n seal
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"Peel n' seal" from Home Depot on left, "fat-mat no logo" on right
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 903
Registered: Oct-10
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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 904
Registered: Oct-10
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peel n' seal on right, fatmat no logo 70 mil on left

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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 905
Registered: Oct-10
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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 906
Registered: Oct-10



 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 907
Registered: Oct-10
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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 908
Registered: Oct-10
That last one is the Kenwood 12" that came out of the 1989 Kenwood tower. Made me lol.
And here is it's spider.Upload
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31 mm Xmax 1 way. Not sure how close I got it here...
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 909
Registered: Oct-10
I still need to design and build box. I was thinking about mayber aero ports, but I dunno yet. I also need an alternator upgrade bad! The stocker is a 55 amp. I talked to the alt man, we working on something kinda. Money is tight right now. That alt upgrade (shooting for 200 amps) plus a small battery under each seat and an Optima yellow-top under hood and big 3 will do it for the electrical. 1 run pos and neg of 1/0 OFC from engine, blah blah. I will probably finish up the headliner before starting back in with the audio. Got something special planned for the headliner. Gonna cost $$

I have CLD and MLV all over, and the body is dead as doodoo
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1739
Registered: May-09
Lovely setup, not sure if you are driving the comps on HU power but for SQ it needs to be done through an amp, this would be great:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23877_MB-Quart-ONX4.60.html

Even the cheaper 50x4 $89 will do fine.

Great sub and amp, the sub will be run under rated power so you can go above recommended net volume or at least to the top of their range if you want some extra output.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 910
Registered: Oct-10
Thanks for the input, and yea, the HU is pushing the comps. Def needs an amp, but i was thinking they were big $ for a 4ch so i havent given it much thhought lately. I am going for 2.75 cubes net, sub and port back, tuned to 30 or so. I would like to try aeros, but i know nothing about them. Or possibly a square port, cuz they look good.
I have a question:
what differences in sound will my small cabin cause? Like with cabin gain and what not. What changes should i think about to make the innstall ideal to such a small cabin?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1741
Registered: May-09
Small cabins boost the lows more than large ones, so one has to pay attention on the box design to maintain musicality. Flared aero ports have greater sound quality than slot ports but usually when tuning low they become too long for most boxes, that's why many hatchback boxes featuring aeroports have the port firing driver's side, if you haven't tested boxes on your car, chances are that you will need to build more than one box to get the results you want.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 911
Registered: Oct-10
Is there a good calculator for aero ports? Like where I can plug in the dimensios and it tells me the diameter/length?
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 912
Registered: Oct-10
I found this site to calculate the lenght of aero port needed: http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html

I am going for 2.75 cubes tuned to 34. The calc calls for 1x 4" flared aero 8.727" long. This gives a total port area of 97.1 (7.727"x4")
Does this sound good? I am hoping the diameter is big enough to avoid port noise.
Also, I entered the net volume of the box before port and sub displacement into the calculator. Is this the right way to do it?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1744
Registered: May-09
Visit this:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsFyH9hGFoZydE9TaThIeGdTd3Nib1ViWm5 4NnNkWGc#gid=0

it's a spreadsheet but you need to download it to use it, can't be used online, it takes care of all displacements for you, has some learning curve but once you got it is incredibly accurate.

To download just go to file>download as> (pick a format you want like .xls).
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1745
Registered: May-09
The PSP is good but no wood/port/driver displacements are accounted for so the least mistake and you are off.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 914
Registered: Oct-10
Found these 2 different surround tears!!! I =

I was thinking of using vinyl cement to stick some thin vinyl on the top and the bottom of the surround, then play it till she really blows. Either way, I will need a whole new cone, coil, surround, spider, and leads, right? I have never reconed before.

Can anyone think of a better fix??




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Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1748
Registered: May-09
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/xcon-recone-service-kit.html

Damn expensive though.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 915
Registered: Oct-10
Might you know if the competent do-it-yourselfer would have the resources to do the recone? like would I need a special alignment tool to center the coil? Seems awful tricky...

Also, if I ghetto-fix it, do I run the risk of damaging the pole peice and motor due to coil rub and subsequent burnout? I know it is near impossible to get burnt coil out of the coil gap...
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1749
Registered: May-09
They give you an option to send it. I have reconed but not with a kit, it boils down to properly center the whole thing which is easy to do with the dust cap off. I thought I read they sell the glue separately.

I don't think that you can damage the motor, besides it would sound so awful that you realize immediately if any rubbing is taking place.

Being the kit so expensive I'd just send it in for repair.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 917
Registered: Oct-10
Yea, but it would cost extra for shipping this heavy mofo. How do you center the cone properly? Would I need an alignment tool? It just seems sketchy to me...
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 918
Registered: Oct-10
Oh, and this cone doesn't really have a dust cap, so...yea
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1752
Registered: May-09
To avoid typing anything:


 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 931
Registered: Oct-10
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So I fixed the surround with vinyl cement and vinyl patches. It works quite well, but I hope that the added thickness and stiffness on 1 side of the surround won't slowly pull the cone and coil to that side.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 932
Registered: Oct-10
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These sounded like CRAP in the body panel, so I put them here. It is sealed underneath with plastic walmart sacks stuffed with poly-fill to form a type of poly-fill gasket perimeter underneath. I plan to do this differently in the future.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 933
Registered: Oct-10
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The diamond plate will be my switch panel. Stay tuned.

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I followed the advice of Joe and got an amp for my comps.
MB Quart RA640.4 pushing 80wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms. Full specs here http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67883_MB-Quart-RA640.4.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 935
Registered: Oct-10
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Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 936
Registered: Oct-10
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Sealed my door panels with this free air-tight material! I used 3M Super 90 spray adhesive.


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I glued this aluminum flashing to the ceiling to add rigidity and sound deadening. The glue I used was 3M Super 90 spray adhesive. Tought stuff.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 937
Registered: Oct-10
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I was very happy with how this was going until 1 day when my car was in the hot sun for a few hours. The weight of the flashing pulled the "peel n seal" sh1t right off the roof panel. The higher quality stuff stayed stuck. Lesson learned: Do not buy CLD from your local hardware store. So now I have to get some more of the quality CLD and do it all over before I can continue my headliner project.

If buying CLD, make sure the mastic material is butyl rubber, and not some synthetic mystery mastic plastic sh1t.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 939
Registered: Oct-10
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Got the headliner prepped and here's a little teaser
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 941
Registered: Oct-10
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Here's my lil motor haha
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