Draw this to see if everything fits, to keep things simple it has to be a side port since the box is slanted. if you are going to overdrive the subs you should never go for top volume, It's set at about 0.5/sub and will take the extra power.
Also I am thinking that is tuned way low for an 8" 34Hz and up would be my minimum but look into it.
i thought they were 600 each didn't check that there only 400, as everyone seems to powering them with 600+ in that case ill get a 700-800rms @2ohm so 350-400rms ea
specs on this say 0.5-0.75@35hz but they dont give an optimum port area i was working of an 18.75 port area
The SA-8V1 sub is 400W the SA-8V2 sub is 500W, Sundowns can take above rated definitely but you have to limit excursion, usually you give 0.5-0.6 cubes at 34-36Hz to get the most out if them.
Also you have to set the subsonic filter on the amp 3-5 hz below tuning frequency and they will get incredibly loud without blowing.. the DC Audio L2 8" is another little beast.
You can set the port area higher but will just take up more internal volume, if you can find extra space no problem. With high port area it will unload faster below tuning though taking away some low end.
What would you recomend For port area then for 2 in 1 box And for seperate
On most of the setups if googled they seem to be in 0.6-0.8
Also another opton i looked at was aero ports 2x3" at 22" As sub will not be on angle side of box the port will be harder to run accross rear I was going to run both subs and port on flat side,
16 square inches of port area per cubic feet of net volume is about right for SPL oriented setups, except for subs like the re xxx, digital designs stuff and such.
the SA-8v2 can be driven on rated power up to 1 cubic feet, best way to know is excursion analysis whch I have not done for this sub either v1 or v2. but it's safe to say that if you are going to run them above rated you need to go near the bottom of the range, factor in that not everything you see in the internet is 100% legit.
If you want the slant you should be looking into firing bacwards and saving some space, those are usually lateral firing with aeros or slots, not sure how you will fit the 20+ inches port but I guess that if you have the above program you will figure it out on your own.
Ok so based in your first slanted box but using aero ports here is a box with 0.62 cubic feet net per sub. There are no real disadvantages of side firing as long as there is airspace in front of the port:
1.24 cu.ft @ 32Hz
Port length is 26.6", port area per cube of net volume for aero ports is recommended to be 9-13, this scores 11.4 which is adequate for daily use with a slghtly lower F3.
Done just for fun. If this is not suitable I will try a slot. Bear in mind that I would tune higher to 34 at least.
I probley can it will just be a tighter fit For width i can go up to 45" but it wont fit through door So if i do 35.5" in width ill have 5"+ on the port side
What program is that you are using
I just use winisd. psp RF's box cal. Then the trusty pen to do the final sums
Would you sugest running one port out eash side with a single box
Or even one out each side and split the box to be 2 And have left port to right sub And right port to ledt sub
If you look closely my last suggestion is just 31" wide and thats because pipe ports displacement is almost only the arspace inside them.
If you placed ports in oppositte sides you run the risk of acoustic cancellation, same goes for subs/ports, subs/subs.
You need about 3.5" clearance in front of the port for the previous suggestion.
That was creative but is not necessary, sometimes you can run a port partially external upwards from the center to the rear deck, but I don't like it since the output of the port is enhanced, over the output of the sub.
Next suggestion a bottom slot ported box, much larger since a big piece of wood is needed to port, same spec 1.2@32Hz:
The interface you see is from the Torres calculator, it can be used in some cicumstances others not but is a better alternative.
Both of theis box would be slimmer The slot port is easier/ cheeper to build as freight on 2 3" ports from psp Is $80 + the ports them self
That angle on back of box is 1" in 2"up So if i wanted a slighly bigger port and stay at 2" up Box would be 16.5(h1) x2.75(h2) x35.5(w) x4(td) x 10.5(bd) Port 2x9 Cant work out length as im at work
But that gives a better port-cuft
Another thing am i better to put subs evenly accross the box or both 2 one side over port as in stanard boxes
Ok if you are willing to go to 0.7 cubes per sub which is nearly the top recommendation (for V1), you need to stay not much above 20% of rated power to avoid bottoming out the subs, and 33Hz is nice, people who like overdriving a lot those subs are doing 0.5 cubes per sub @ 35-36Hz to get really loud.
Also 40 wide?... well if you can fit it ok.
If you were going to compete or something I would do an excursion plot but I guess that's overkill for this.
And regarding the sub position you need to be careful not to make the holes without checking mounting depth, are 5 1/4 deep, when you decide on the specs I could check it for you.
ive done the maths @ 7.5" from base to centre of sub, it will touch back wall and @6.5" from base to centre of sub it will touch port wall (7"mag@5.25 depth)
so the centre of sub will be between 6.5 and 7.5" from base
as i dont have any programs to plot this, is there a good ball park i should work to, as small boxes are not my forty,
i can either fit closer to rear or closer to port
+ is it better to fit both subs off set to one side, either towards port opening inside of box or away
or just anywhere that looks good ie divide box by 3 and subs equal to each other
No you should not make the port turn ever unless absolutely necessary, that would reduce efficiency (SPL) an introduce turbulence, you just need 2 1/2"- 3" of free airspace in front of the port external end and you are good.
Instead optimizing the port can help:
And Yes 500 is a lot, hope they shipped the version 2 to you, is really better than it's prdecessor, sound cleaner than Kickers being loud as well, the SA-12 and now the 15s are really on demand over almost any driver on the price range (also obsidians), the DC Audio L2 8" is another little monster, really impressive.
Well you will know soon enough, I am thinking that if you don't like them you will be able to resell the over there real easy with those shipping costs!
ive always braced the box as you have in drawing, but i normally use half bull-nose edging, its the same as pick but 1/4 round on third + I always round the leading edge on port entrance, and depending on if my friends want it on outside of port ar well for looks and also to tuck carpet in to and hide finish
ive my fair share of boxes but never in a small space and nilly always to the manufactures specs, and ive never had a problem
i most differently never got full potential out of them but was very satisfied
contacted the company i ordered from and i think there sending v.1 i emailed them and said i want the v.2 im told much better sq from them and the mag is also bigger at 6 5/8 m/depth si ill need to fit a spacer to the front but all good
Is def louder than the v1, larger excursion and therefore the motor size, no problem going to a higher Vb as long as you stay within 20% above rated power, problem is some people are running them 50% or above and some downsizing applies to avoid the sub bottoming out.
If you do get them, a box redesign would be in order, have different displacement and working volume.
Found out v.2 is 0.1cuft each And also deeper So i need to at a 1" spacer to front Witj the 1" spacer i add 0.022cuft per spacer So with spacer the box will be the same internal volume
Right a ring can make it fit but also may reduce the breathing room of the sub, I have not checked this sub in particular though, generally speaking I would avoid that as long space permits, in your case I would just go one inch ahead, with all the wall or change the slant angle or a combination of the two, of course thats only me, first see if they are actually sending the v2.
