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Guys really need help!!!

 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 71
Registered: Jul-11
ok well
im wanting to build my own box.
Ive never build my own box before. it for 2 SA-12 D4.so i was thinking an enclosure 1.5 per camber total volume 3.0 cuft. i want it to be tuned high for an SPL factor. So im not sure how to design a box that is ported and tuned. im not totally sure if this would be correct for these subs. tuned maybe around 40hz. I know joe burkham you've answered my questions time and time again. I really appreciate for all your help.

sub displacement- .14
sub cut out- 11.125
internal per sub- 1.5


I need help designing the box. like (LxWxH) all that good stuff. if you guys don't want to post on my thread i definitely understand.
thank you all for your opinions they have helped me all along the way of getting into the car audio scene.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 321
Registered: Apr-10
First step is to get your hands on a box design program such as WinISD Pro (Here) or Bass Box Pro (costs money but is obtainable through... other methods...)

Second step is to designate the MAX HxLxW that you are willing to give up in your car, that way you have constraints on your box size. Everyone has their own method on the design process so, are you looking to learn from scratch to develop you box designing skills or are you just looking for a bit of help for this one time? I ask because I am willing to go into deep detail on how I personally design boxes, but if thats not what you want then I won't.

As far as the SA-12's go, for an SPL oriented daily setup, 1.5 cuft per sub should do well. What kind of car do you drive, this will affect how you should tune.
 

Silver Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 996
Registered: May-09
E3_overkill, I was wondering what box do you have now and what do you find wrong with it - and right about it, of course the specs of your current box will help a lot. I know you have a 98 Mercedes c280.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 73
Registered: Jul-11
I have just a lame prefab box with sounds like crap, and yes i drive a 98 c280 Mercedes. so theirs everything wrong but noting write. cause a buddy of mine has a box that tuned and port @ 34hz and is at 1.75 an it sound amazing cause he let my use the box for awhile until he sold it. So now im looking to get my own custom made enclosure for these subs. I was looking on sundown audio cite and said smaller enclosure tuned higher for SPL.
I appreciate all the info. ill post again will all my detail of trunk room.


1. - box design software
2.- find out how much space im willing to give up
3. - definitely going to need your guys help haha lol
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mkeets

Post Number: 26
Registered: Oct-11
Simple just get WinIsd or if you can find bass box pro for free somewhere get that. Put in the T/S paramaters and mess with the design until you find what you're looking for. If you use WinIsd you should go to the signal tab and put in how much power you're going to feed the woofers. Then right above the graph where it says transfer function click that and go to rear port air velocity. This will help you check to see if you'll have port noise. If the velocity is too high you may have to increase port area. As far as coming up with dimensions get the recommended box size and add on port displacement and driver displacement. Then divide that number by the height of your trunk, then divide that number by the width of your trunk and you can find the depth the box needs to be (this is for a rectangular/square shaped box)
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 74
Registered: Jul-11
dang you just throw some crazy information at me. i did download winlsd. and i don't understand the program at all. it ask for your sub and type but they don't have it under the listing. so i just uninstalled it. Is bass box pro more user friendly you can say.haha lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1008
Registered: May-09
Don't worry abuot tech stuff, a number of guys including myself use those proggies almost every other day, just give me the HWD of the biggest box you are willing to fit and some tuning suggestions for me to try I already have:

1) 1.75cuft@34Hz
2) 1.5cuft@40Hz

Also let me know if you want a dual chamber box or a single chamber, I'll get back to you with a comparative plot of your suggestions, pick one and then I will provide you with a cut list.

I already know you liked number 1 so it makes a good starting point.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 325
Registered: Apr-10
If anything Bass Box Pro is more complex in the sense that it has more potential. WinISD is as simple as it gets when it comes to box design, go ahead and re-install it.

Most car audio speakers will not be pre-set in the program, you need to add them. Manufacturers list most of the Thiele Small parameters required for basic box design. These T/S parameters basically describe how a loudspeaker will react to a given enclosure in a free-space environment.

Lets take the SA-12's as an example. If you go to Sundowns website and look at the SA-12 page Here you will notice a list of Specifications about the subwoofer. These are T/S parameters. The most important of the bunch are Qes, Qms, Qts, Vas, Fs. Read more about these T/S parameters here

If you open up WinISD Pro, click on "New Project", then to the RIGHT of the pre-set speaker list, their is a button that says "New", click that. In the new window you want to put in the Brand and Model of the speaker (this is just for naming purposes because it will be added to your preset list). So I put Brand: "Sundown Audio", Model: "SA-12 D4". Next click on the tab near the top that says "Parameters" and start filling in any values that are known for the speaker. Sometimes manufacturers will not list Sd, this is basically just the effective cone surface area and it can be calculated with simple geometry. A typical 10" woofer will have 400 cm^2 while a 12" woofer wil have around 520 cm^2. Also the spec labeled "Pe", that would be the RMS power handling of the speaker. So in the case of an SA-12, Pe = 600.

After you have filled out the info you have, simply save the file. Close the "Driver editor", go to "New Project" again and find your subwoofer in the list.

If you choose Vented, when it asks you to choose an "alignment", go with C4 or QB3, these are basically algorithms that look at the T/S parameters of the speaker and attempt to auto-design a box to get the flattest/lowest extension possible. At this point you can mess with the box Volume, Tuning, port size, and whatnot to get the respone you are looking for.

Ill stop here for now, im sure you will have questions.

EDIT: Or you can have Joe design you a box... lol. Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1012
Registered: May-09
Ok so felt I had enough infos to start something:

Upload

On Red your friend's box design 1.75cuft@34Hz
On Yellow your suggestion 1.5cuft@40Hz

With a gain of 4.63dB@45Hz this thing will sound loud against your friends 2.60dB@36Hz so around 2dB louder. It will take a lot of power too.

Here is the design data for a dual chamber enclosure (non flush mounted subs) that performs like the yellow curve:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 40 Hz
Vb = 1,5 ft^3 (per chamber)

Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted

External Height = 14 in
External Width = 39,85 in
External Depth = 18 in

Port Width = 2 3/8 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front & Back = 39 7/8 x 14

Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts) = 16 1/2 x 12 1/2

Top & Bottom = 39 7/8 x 16 1/2

L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) :

Front to Back = 14 1/8 x 12 1/2
Extension = 9 5/8 x 12 1/2

If you would prefer flush mounted subs or a different tuning let me know.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 75
Registered: Jul-11
Wow guys thank you for all the help. I really do appreciate it. Joe, and alonzoub thank you for all the help. I really mean it. So joe you thinking going with my choice of 1.5 cuft @ 40hz would be best for SPL factor ? Sorry it taking me so long to respond back I've been working alot lately.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 76
Registered: Jul-11
Yeah I wanted daul camber. At that yellow curve. You have to help me out on understand the port depth? How far do I go back before it makes the "L" turn? Joe that pretty Cool for helping me out like that with deminsion and what not. When I get home tonight from work I'll post the deminsion of my trunk. I'm pretty sure that box you suggest or design up will fit in my trunk. Tonight I'll let you now for sure. But joe never Ceases to amaze me. Keep up the good work. Even thou this might be an older forum, I think you guy give the best answers and suggest yet.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 529
Registered: Oct-10
You're starting in the wrong place unless you know that you can only fit 3 cubic feet NET.

Start with measuring your useable dimensions, I think I read that you did...

For a tuning of 40 Hz, the port will most likely be pretty short, so it wouldn't be in an L shape.

A large port is suitable to SPL goals. The bigger the L X W of the port, the longer it needs to be for a lower tuning. Try to use the most amount of port area you can squeeze will still keeping the modelled/targeted response by the NET air space - basically, the port size and air space will depend on eachother and make sense because of the space that you have. Use it all up for best results.

For a dual chamber you'll either need 2 ports or have the port in the middle, connecting the two chambers.

Port depth(s) depend on the port area (L X W) and the internal NET space (after displacements).

What you should do instead of 1.5 cubic feet per sub is play around with the tuning and the space, so that you get optimal results. Optimal meaning you can't be so sure that 1.5 cubic feet will be louder than 2 cubic feet, so model it in WINISD or whatever, and see for yourself. Google "Linear Teams online WINISD calculator", they have an online one that you don't need to download, you'll need the T/S specs of the sub, specifically the .QTS, FS, and VAS (in cubic feet).

Try to have the port(s) and subs on the same dimension, and either have them firing into the cabin or to the back of the trunk. It would be better if they were pointed into the cabin & sealed off (IE - walled off with fiberglass), otherwise have them pointed to the rear, as long as they have room to breath (IE - room around the box for the sound to escape back into the cabin) than rear-fire should be louder/deeper.

Double the MDF on the dimension the subs are on so that it's 1.5" thick. Use 45 degree corners for smooth air flow. Consider a flared port. I would stay away from aeroports because you probably couldn't fit them (because they mostly come in 2-"-4"-6"-8" and you'd probably be using a lot more than can fit). The pressure inside a box causes the plastic, cylindrical ports such as aeroports to flex and it causes hold ups in the air flow. Resin the entire box (because you can pick/suck up 3 squared cut outs of MDF by stacking them and putting a vacuum to the top piece of MDF - meaning even MDF isn't completely "sealed"). When you resin it, it obviously forms a hard plastic over it, and you gain pressure (and consequently dB) from it.

We do give the best answers XD.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1022
Registered: May-09
Lord Huggington Hi! in my previous post above I am providing a preliminar design, due to the maximized port area the port need in fact to turn, Agree on the double MDF already suggested that.

If you don't like anything about it or the tuning E3 wants, hope you can care to comment.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 77
Registered: Jul-11
okkkk.
don't get me wrong guy, all you just said was crazy.
When i choice to go with the 1.5 cuft tuned @ 40 Hz. i was going off what sundown on their website said to use for SPL setups. so your saying if i put two layers of MDF around the whole box it would make is sound better ? Ok well here is the space that i have to use.
Trunk specs
length-40in
depth-19in
hight-17in

yes i have a small trunk cause i have a small car.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 78
Registered: Jul-11
So Joe do you think you can work with something off of that ? were i can have lots of SPL? i want the person next to me at a stop light to hate me. hahah lol if that makes any sense.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1024
Registered: May-09
Ok E3, with this tuning expect less shaking and more loudness, I guess that there is nothing wrong with that but you just dont see people using them that way, if you found that tour friends box was not that loud then no point in suggesting lower tuning. So I maxed out the size of the box to the dims you gave and came up with this, Here is a drawing showing how to assemble the parts in the cut list:

Upload

And here is the design data as before:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 40 Hz
Vb = 1,5 ft^3 (per chamber)

Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted

External Height = 13,5 in
External Width = 39,71 in
External Depth = 19 in

Port Width = 2 1/2 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 39 11/16 x 13 1/2

Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts) = 16 3/4 x 12

Top & Bottom = 39 11/16 x 16 3/4

L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) :

Front to Back = 14 1/4 x 12
Extension = 8 7/8 x 12


Notice the double MDF in the front, this is recomended both for sound quality and SPL, Also this is not a flush mounted design install the subs in the outer MDF layer. Verify that everything fits before cutting anything and I hope someone is willing to provide opinions on the design or check for issues.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 79
Registered: Jul-11
Joe man I really appreciate it. ALOT!!! This well work great. With that double MDF I can flush mount it to if I want to. Dude I really appreciate. I can't say it enough.Showing me that picture really helps as well. Once I get it all up together and install in post picture up. Thanks for all the help guys. Joe keep doing your thing man. Helping out alot of people.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1025
Registered: May-09
Ok E3, you should not flush mount this design, if you want to do a flush mount the design has to be changed because the displacement of the sub would be different, Let me know if you want to flush mount and I will post a new one for that.

As with any design you should check everything yourself before cutting any materials. So make SURE you do that please.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 532
Registered: Oct-10
I didn't know you were going off of SA's SPL recommendation, I was just saying - before you choose any NET space, recommendation or not, you should model it to say what will work best for the space that you have. 1.5 cubic feet for SPL really depends on the box quality, power, and vehicle.

"Double the MDF on the dimension the subs are on." because subs flex lots, they need to be mounted on 1.5". The rest of the box is .75".

Good box, Joe. Remember to use 45 degree angles in the corners and resin the entire thing. It should be very loud with that tuning and 20" of port area per cubic foot.

You have 5.784 cubic feet internal, which isn't small, it's ideal.

The only other thing I can suggest is T-nuts for screwing the sub down.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 80
Registered: Jul-11
Yeah then I won't have them flush mounted. And I would have no idea on how to do 45 degree corners. And what am I suppose to resin ? The box? And I was just going to use words puddy and fill in all the screw wholes and sems inside and out. And what is a "T" nut? Yes joe great job on the box. It's going to be raw.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Orlando, Florida

Post Number: 333
Registered: Apr-10
Here is a little excerpt from a post I made in another thread a little while back regarding the 45's.

------------- quote
Assuming a port with a WIDTH of 3.25"...
Upload
The blue line is the ideal port turn, so I make the 45 wedge tangent to the ideal turn. So that wedge is measured to have an inside face width of 3.314". Of course you can't cut that, so I just round up to the closest 1/8" which would be 3 3/8" or 3.325".

So the wedge will be cut at 3.325" x 13.5" and then the 45's will be cut out of it like on the dotted lines below:
Upload
------------- /quote

T-nuts are basically provide a metal thread in the places where you would otherwise be using screws to mount the subs. This way you can use bolts that won't tear up the wood when mounting and dismounting the subs, not to mention they add some structural integrity to the mounting. Heres a visual aid for T-nut use: http://www.threeballclimbing.com/climbing_wall_plans/fasten_climbing_holds.htm... yea I know its not for subwoofers in that link but the concept is the same.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Orlando, Florida

Post Number: 334
Registered: Apr-10
Actually he is an even better read for t-nuts and box building in general: http://caraudiomag.com/articles/subwoofer-enclosure-design-and-6-tips-proper-mou nting
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1026
Registered: May-09
E3, if you want to do the wedges no problem BUT:

1) The turn MUST not get narrower than 2 1/2 inches.
2) Both corners have to be identical and fit identically or tuning mismatch can happen.

If it's above your skill to do them correctly go ahead and forget about them, are more trouble tha the're worth. They become critical in narrow ports only and yours is not.

The T-nuts are cool, go with them!

Also I recommend using MDF screws and high quality wood glue (like titebond) to do the assembly, ask any questions you need, since this is your first job you can run into trouble easy.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 81
Registered: Jul-11
Yeah for sure guys.I'm going to look more into that "T" bot idea,and yeah im sure ill probably be running into some problems along the way somewhere. im probably not going to go with the 45 degree corners.Not until I at least can make my first box. haha lol. thanks everyone who commented on my thread. I'll most likely be start making the enclosure during my Christmas break. So after i get everything installed ill definitely be posting some pics so you guy can see.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Orlando, Florida

Post Number: 336
Registered: Apr-10
I do not mean to offend in any way here, but making the 45's is incredibly simple assuming your tablesaw can be angled to a 45 degree angle. If it can, it is literally no harder than cutting every other piece for the box, just simply measure (twice) and then cut (once).

In your case, the large face of the wedge should be 2 5/8". So simply cut out a rectangular piece of MDF that is 12" x 2-5/8" and then slice 45 degree angles into the 2 sides like in the screenshot above (on the dotted line). Repeat for the other side of the box. Voila.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Orlando, Florida

Post Number: 337
Registered: Apr-10
To illustrate where I got the number 2-5/8" for the port wedge size:
Upload
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 82
Registered: Jul-11
humm i see if i can do the 45 degree angles cuts. Well ok guys i have a quick question again, and yeah i know im not on the right thread. But i was wondering how to i hook up a second battery for my original car battery? do i just run a power from power and fuse it then ground the second battery in a different place on the body? cause both of my batteries are already in the trunk. then run my power to my amp and that's it? or is their more ?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1033
Registered: May-09
There's not much to it, take a look:

Upload

The important thing is not to run the system with the car off or when you turn it on back again the alternator would have to charge both batteries, that can kill the alt in some cases. I would't recommend use of isolators for the same reason.

The ground point should be the same as the amps.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 83
Registered: Jul-11
umm how does an isolator work. don't you have to hook up an isolator as well? or do you just put the power cables into it? if that question makes any sense. haha lol are the little block close to the battery fuses or isolators, and the what the larger block? im a little confused hahah.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1038
Registered: May-09
Ok, the isolator is going to disconnect the front battery when you turn off your car leving the rear one (or ones) run the audio, the problem is that when you turn on the car back again the alternator gets pounded trying to recharge a probably very discharged rear battery, I guess that with a proper alternator that is not a problem but you have this problem upgrading the alt, so I would recommend dealing with the alt issue first and then setup your batteries any way you want.

Regarding the subs I have seen people driving those subs well above 1K each, you may consider pouring some more power into them. I also think that you have chosen a higher than averge tuning, that will get you very loud and boomy.. I don't know if you really want that, I read about this guy who tuned to 40 Hz redoing his box to get lower..so...I would recommend to talk to team sundown and get some feedback...just to make sure you are getting what you really are looking for..
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 84
Registered: Jul-11
Oh shoot thanks Joe. ill definitely looking into that. so what do you think i should tune them at with at amount of air space? I am looking for loud and boomy like were people in the car next to me dont like me at all. should i tune it low then ? I cant really go to much bigger on the box size, and on the battery part of it i definitely wont run my system with the car turned off. always on and running. so do you still think i should use isolators? and i was still a little confused on the picture itself. Are all the box in the picture isolators or some fuses?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1045
Registered: May-09
Your box will be almost as loud as it gets and will be good for that, if I was doing a loud setup for myself I would do the following:

2 x 1.75cuft@36Hz@1000W RMS.

The box will be bigger and will not get as loud but may be more likeable to the ear. You can find team sundown in either CACO or SMD for further input.

Regarding the pic above, you got perplexed by the little boxes and missed the title on the top..lol, yes they are all fuses on that diagram, After you get the alt right you can wire anyway you want, if you are not using the audio with the car turned off then no need for setting up isolators.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 85
Registered: Jul-11
Sweet Joe thanks for the info.
I was thinking about what you said with the box suggestion. do you think with the dimension i gave you that box could fix in my trunk? I was probably gunna go down to Lowe's or something like that today and do my cut list. Even if i did 2 x 1.75 cuft@ 36 Hz @ 750 RMS do you think that well sound better? and kind of stupid question what do you mean by more likeable to the ear?

I appreciate all your time Joe in answering all my questions.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1056
Registered: May-09
No problem E3, I was thinking that at least you should avoid the sorts of sound you have now with the prefab if you have some free time at some point it would be interesting to have the dims of that box and the port just to have clear what should be avoided.

By more likeable to the ear I mean going from a numbers sound to something with a little bottom end and not as boomy, equally loud by pushing more power in. Of course with the same 750W can't do the missing 2dB and the box needs to be bigger.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 86
Registered: Jul-11
Yeah so if I do tune it lower Joe the box will need to be larger ?correct? I'm looking for the boomy. So if I drop the Hz down to 36Hz can I
Still use that size of box ? Or I would have to go bigger ? I kind of
Want who ever hears it their ears hurt. Haha if that makes any
Sense. So if I went with a larger box I would need more power. And
so about 1000 RMS @ 1ohm per sub. And I don't have that much
Money anymore for an amp. Like 200 at must. I know hifioics makes
Sim amps like that but I'm not to use on the brand. What do you think ?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1066
Registered: May-09
If the prefab box you have is the about same size as the one you intend to build I would take a closer look, in the meantime I am providing an alternative assembly in case you preferred not to cut the ports on the baffle surface. I took the time to draw it to check the output some software I am writing:

Upload

It's the same exact thing and I still prefer the first one if it's easy for you to do the cuts.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 87
Registered: Jul-11
My prefab box is pretty small I think is only like 1.2 cuft per sub. And with that other design sound better or will they both sound the same. My friends sounded good at 34hz, but I want louder then that. So their any in between 34hz-40hz that well sit have lots of boomy and loud? But being able to keep that same air space? And I was thinking about going with that "T" nut idea. Sound pretty cool.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 88
Registered: Jul-11
i have a question concerning the box if the sub are 12 inch and the height of the front is only 12 inches how am i going to cut out a circle 12 inches. wouldnt the box have to be taller? or am i just an idiot? haha. like wouldn't the box have to be at least 13 or 14 inches height?
just not understanding. sorry.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1070
Registered: May-09
Ok E3 the dimensions of the cutouts you see are those of the sub or like in your first post 11 1/8 not 12. BUT I did catch a mistake on the drawing, those holes are 10 1/8 and this happened because I edited a previous design and left that unaddressed. And Yes I would have to make it a little taller because it only leaves less than 1/2 inch above an below the cutout which makes rather weak front panels. The same exact issue ocurred with the double skars build. So there's another reason to try my previous specs since this way it would need to be taller. I will also add a warning to the design check routine in my code.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 89
Registered: Jul-11
so if i make everything on the box 1 inch taller will is effect the port tuning?

Sundown Audio
SA-12D4
Cut out- 11 1/8
depth-6 1/2
outside diameter- 12 5/8

So with the outside diameter being 12 5/8 it would barely fix right? on the box without hanging over? so is their anyway we can my the box inch or two taller and not as long ? well that work and use the second design you gave me cause it would be alot easier for me to build for a first box. Sorry for asking all the questions of you probably starting to get annoying.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1072
Registered: May-09
So it gets redesigned a bit taller and no need to cut ports, if it's no problem for you neither is for me, the real challenge is making something that you actually will like.

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 40 Hz
Vb = 1,5 ft^3 (per chamber)

External Height = 14,5 in
External Width = 36,57 in
External Depth = 19 in

Port Width = 2 1/4 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front = 30 9/16 x 13
Front Internal = 29 1/16 x 13
Back = 36 9/16 x 13

Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts):
2 x Side = 18 1/4 x 13
Center Divider = 16 3/4 x 13

Top & Bottom = 36 9/16 x 19

L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) :

Front to Back = 15 1/4 x 13
Extension = 8 1/4 x 13


This is brand new code so check that everything assembles like in the second drawing.

And no problem I just coded support for this type of assembly because cutting the ports is difficult.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 90
Registered: Jul-11
My prefab box is pretty small I think is only like 1.2 cuft per sub. And with that other design sound better or will they both sound the same. My friends sounded good at 34hz, but I want louder then that. So their any in between 34hz-40hz that well sit have lots of boomy and loud? But being able to keep that same air space? And I was thinking about going with that "T" nut idea. Sound pretty cool. So alot joe for redesign the box again. I can't think you enough for all the help. I'm think this coming up Monday I'm going to start working on building the box. And after I'm done I'll post some picture up. So you can see your design haha.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1077
Registered: May-09
At 40Hz bass will be lighter, not as deep, but louder, not a "one note" box like most bandpass boxes are but boomy. I think that for what you want it, it's ok like it is now. I did suggest 1.75@36Hz but the box will get bigger and not as loud. I would recommend to get a 2-2.2K amp overtime to get louder.

If you really want me to tell how different is your prefab against this one I would need the dims both for the port (area & length per chamber) and the external HxWxD.

You can use T-nuts for mounting the subs, very neat, you can install and uninstall the subs very easily.

It's ok E3, for now I do this, picturing your build is a good idea for me to see but also if you get to do another box to better remember what you did well and where you went wrong. And in 20 years they will be fun to watch..
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 91
Registered: Jul-11
Hahah yeah right. Gunna look back at my self and be like wow. Hahah. Doyle have an suggest on a 2k amp that's around the 200 dollar range ? What about hifioics amps ? Im not to sure their ture RMS? The guy told me my prefab was 1.2 cuft per sub @ 45Hz something like that. I toke it to my car audio shop locaty and he took the deminsion of the box. I think it sounded horrible.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1079
Registered: May-09
The Hifonics cea-2006 certified amplifiers do rated, so if you are curious on how much space it it takes a 2 x 1.75@36Hz:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 36 Hz
Vb = 1,75 ft^3 (per chamber)

Subwoofer Mounting = Flush Mounted

External Height = 14,5 in
External Width = 40,05 in
External Depth = 20 in

Port Width = 2 3/8 in
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 92
Registered: Jul-11
so do you think i should get the hifonics amp would do the job? and ok well here i go again with a box favor. is their a way we can make it like 15.5 inches tall. cause im having space issues now with a place to mount my battery in my trunk. So if you can make it tall to about 15.5 inch tall could you i would really appreciate that, and im sorry im making you design the box again. so yeah i definitely know now that i cant put that bigger box in. depressing. haha and i'am going with the battery isolator. so i would really appreciate if you could change it again. if not i understand I've already asked alot of you.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1084
Registered: May-09
If you are looking to fit it on the side of the box, this is as much as I can give you:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 40 Hz
Vb = 1,5 ft^3 (per chamber)

External Height = 16 in
External Width = 31,41 in
External Depth = 20 in

Port Width = 2 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front = 25 15/16 x 14 1/2
Front Internal = 24 7/16 x 14 1/2
Back = 31 7/16 x 14 1/2

Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts):
2 x Side = 19 1/4 x 14 1/2
Center = 17 3/4 x 14 1/2

Top & Bottom = 31 7/16 x 20

L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) :

Front to Back = 16 1/2 x 14 1/2
Extension = 7 1/8 x 14 1/2


Regarding the amp, I wouldn't go cheaper than HiFonics they are ok, some of their past designs had issues with overheating so check reviews before buying.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 93
Registered: Jul-11
oh crackers i should of made my self clearer it my fault i needed more room in the back of the box. so less depth more height. and the width at about 36.57. i wanted to see if you could keep that width of 36.57 like the previous design but more height and less depth. if what im saying is even possible. cause the battery going behind the box. im sorry Joe. im absolutely sorry again this will be the last redesign. with the design of the easy port cut out. I feel like an idiot now for not explaining my self.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1085
Registered: May-09
As you can see there are many ways to design the same ported box!

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 40 Hz
Vb = 1,5 ft^3 (per chamber)

External Height = 16 in
External Width = 36,19 in
External Depth = 17,5 in

Port Width = 2 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front = 30 11/16 x 14 1/2
Front Internal = 29 3/16 x 14 1/2
Back = 36 3/16 x 14 1/2

Left & Right Sides + Center Divider (3 parts):
2 x Side = 16 3/4 x 14 1/2
Center = 15 1/4 x 14 1/2

Top & Bottom = 36 3/16 x 17 1/2

L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) :

Front to Back = 14 x 14 1/2
Extension = 9 5/8 x 14 1/2


Draw the thing and make sure everything fits before cutting any materials!
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 94
Registered: Jul-11
Alright sweet that's exactly what im looking for. thank Joe. yeah everything checks out. so this Monday im going to start buying the raw material to build the enclosure. so ill keep you posted on whats going on.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1093
Registered: May-09
Ok E3 good luck with that..
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 95
Registered: Jul-11
ok joe i ran into a little problem in the building of the box. the truck opening was to small to fit the box into so i had to take 1 1/2 off all the way around. so i was wondering if you could tell me the specs and what it would be tuned at? port length and extension are the same. so everything i same except the height. so im wanting to know how many cuft it is and the tuning on the box. if you can please?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1103
Registered: May-09
Ok E3 is this what you are saying?? :

External Height = 16 in - 1 1/2
External Width = 36,19 in - 1 1/2
External Depth = 17,5 in - 1 1/2

Port Width = 2 in

L Ports Internal Assembly Parts (2 of each) :

Front to Back = 14 x 14 1/2 - 1 1/2
Extension = 9 5/8 x 14 1/2 - 1 1/2

If that's it then I will let you know where that lands (most likely in hell).

That's a completely different design!! you know if you are really needing the space you should go with a single chamber design, since only a single port is needed I might manage to still get you 1.5 cubes per sub @ 40 Hz or maybe you could go with flanged aeros that will save you a lot of box size..sound better..
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 96
Registered: Jul-11
no the depth and width are all the same. just the height went down and 1 1/2. thats it. so how much smaller can a single cambered box be @ 40 hz.
external width- 36 6/8
external depth- 17 6/8
external height- 13 7/8

Those are the exact dimension of the box the port length is still is still 14 inches and the extension 9 5/8.
so i was wondering if you could tell me the specs of that box? if not we might have to go with a single camber box design.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1105
Registered: May-09
Ok so only a single chamber will fit the dims above:

Enclosure Specifications:

Fb = 40 Hz
Vb = 3 ft^3

External Height = 13,875 in
External Width = 37,72 in
External Depth = 17,875 in

Port Width = 4 3/4 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 37 3/4 x 13 7/8

Left & Right Sides = 15 5/8 x 12 3/8

Top & Bottom = 37 3/4 x 15 5/8

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 10 7/8 x 12 3/8
Extension = 6 7/16 x 12 3/8

Brace = 7 x 12 3/8

A dual chamber would require 39-40 inches wide with that height and would have a poor port area, with this design you get excellent port area, I have included a brace that should be put between the subs, that along with the double frontpanel will prevent any issues. Also since height went down cutting the ports on the baffle surface is necessary, I will post a pic of the assembly if necessary.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 97
Registered: Jul-11
yeah is their anyway you can tell me what the tune and the cuft of that box i gave you the dimension to?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joe1234

Post Number: 1106
Registered: May-09
With this dimensions

external width- 36 6/8
external depth- 17 6/8
external height- 13 7/8

Port width = 2 in
Port length = 24.375 in

You get:

Fb = 41,135 Hz
Vb = 1,336 ft^3

A no go in my opinion, Vb is too low.
 

Bronze Member
Username: E3_overkill

Post Number: 98
Registered: Jul-11
yeah ill probably just end up building a single enclosure box. D**N that did land me in hell. that sucks but it will have to wait for now i guess. thanks joe for all the help. and even the new spec for the single enclosure box.
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