finally put my alt in, beefed up my big 3 from 4ga for the stock alt to some kun OFC 1/0ga that needed 2/0ga terminals. ^_^ have some belt slip going on i eater need to get a smaller belt or find out if i can adjust my auto tensioner. on the bright side 14v+ 95% of the time and my system seems to have picked up, or at least it feels that way.
thought the regs might enjoy a little something something.
there are some floating around but my current setup is saz-3000D that power my 15" FI Q, a sax-100.2 for my comp's (old school polk momo's) lots of kun wiring, mechman 270 amp alt, sub box by Dustin (bassman), old pioneer that's getting traded out for the stage 4 one sometime soon i hope, about 2-300 pounds of second skin products, some tools, an ipod, some trash.
if your HO Alt has a smaller pulley then you might need one size shorter belt. If you move the tensioner and it stays where you move it or is not hard to move then a new one is necessary. There is only so much movement of the tensioner. There is a arrow or mark pointing to where the idler should be when everything is correct. It will ride right in the middle of travel.....
In this picture the RED arrows point tho the "marks" I was referring to that need to be aligned when completely assembled and engine running and the PURPLE arrows point to the "ends of travel" that I was referring to.
The length of the belt will determine where the arrows point! If belt too short or too long the marks will not line up. These marks are for showing you if your belt is incorrect length. If the marks do not line up you will be doing damage weather it be slipping the belt or wearing out bearings in your accessories and possibly damaging the tensioner itself. The reason for the tensioner is to compensate for moving parts, belt stretch/flex, and vibration. You can watch the tensioner remove and add slack as needed when the engine changes RPM. For example... If not centered (Marks lining up), it could not be able to give up slack when needed and put a strain on all accessories. If the tensioner does not work properly, you will always have problems, weather it be buying belts a lot or replacing accessories as they burn up. Either one is unnecessary if you just do it right and try to line up the tensioner marks or get it to float in the middle of travel. Just trying to save you $$ and a headache.
yah well i cant put a bigger belt on it without retro fitting some things, but i dont have belt slip under load as far as i can tell, its all at idle and angry downshifts. i am in contact with mechman, i seem to be the test case for murphy's law with this car.
its going well, ~1/2 full, i have in order from top to boddem for the boddom four servers, web server, SAN (34.5TB after raid (ZFS raid z2) 33.9 assinged to leave some room for bad sectors to off load later in its life.) its got dual gig nic's in a lagg interface so both it and my desktop have a 2gbps connection, under that is my exchange server / AD / domain / WSUS / a few other things, under that is my buddys VM server running proxmox VE, thinking of building a bigger box then his and then we can do some clustering.
up top is my 24 port gig-e switch (hp procurve) under that is my 1U firewall / IDS / IPS / Captive portal box. got the crappy comcast biz gateway under that, got my own /29 (6 static ip's) under that is the drobo that is retired, poor full little guy. ended up running a 20 AMP breaker and outlit just for the rack. the whole rack eats ~$30.27 /month in power and my desktop is still beating it at ~$32.37 / month.
http://gcs8.org/pc << older pic
http://gcs8.org/san << parts list on the SAN
http://gcs8.org/20drives if you have never seen 20 hard drives at once.
let me know if you have any questions or kit me on skype