So heres the scoop. Kenwood amp, which is already bad news. But anyway, it keeps going into protect I'm pretty sure, all the fuses are good, all the connections are good in the power wire, no breaks, no nothing. Speakers are hooked up properly and the ground is perfect. The only thing that looks sketchy to me is where he pulled the power wire under the hood, its not through the firewall, its through the door and just under where the hood hinge is, but anyway, the power wire is red, but right where its under the hood its lost its color, and is more of a clear/brownish tint color. Anyone know what is going on/what to look for/ what to do.
It's most likely that the amp is going into protect mode due to: the load presented being too low (say, 1 ohm if the amp is 2 ohm stable) the gain being set too high, causing the amp to clip and enter thermal protection the fact that it's a Kenwood, and is a POS. Kenwood and Sony amps are both notorious for going into protect mode for no apparent reason, then outright taking a dump.
Thanks for all your input! But joe, the subs are dual 4, and we wired them down to a 1 ohm final load. I cant say for how hard my friend ragged on his amp, but he is not very car audio inclined. He was still running his subs through a l/o converter even tho he has a hu now. I fixed that but didnt adjust the settings on the amp. I will try all the above solutions and see what happens. Thanks again!
The amp is 1ohm stable, and also I dont think its going into protect, in the manual it says when it goes into protect the power indicator goes out, but the power light stays on, however the blue light doesnt stay on. rewired the subs to a 4-ohm load and got nothin. Hooked up the subs to my amp and they worked fine... Im not sure what the issue is.
Yeah, it uses the signal from the rear speakers, and it converts it into rca's then you just hook the rcas to the amp.. But he still had the l/o converter in while he had a aftermarket hu hooked up... So awhile ago I pulled that out and just ran rcas from the hu to the amp yes. It was working fine for about 4 months, then all of a sudden the subs wouldnt work. Checked the hu and everything was hooked up fine... so I'm clueless
If it is really not entering protect mode the only thing that can be is that is not receiving signal from the head unit or the amp input stage is blown which it would not force it to go into protect mode.
If there is a second amp there you could wire the RCAs going to the troubled amp to the other to see if signal is there. If there is no second amp you could provide signal to the amp with a mp3 player, the only problem is that you need a 3.5 to rca cable to connect the mp3 player, if you can do that just make sure that the mp3 player has volume set to zero to start.
Yeah for sure, It was just irritating. But no, I install everything myself, and never had any issue with my stuff, but this was a friends car. And he had someone else set his up. But I'm just glad we got it figured out. And yeah that was a 70 amp fuse, and he's rockin 8 gauge wire, I told him to at least upgrade to 4 gauge, so hes puttin in an order tomorrow at knukonceptz. : ) Thanks for everything guys!
actually VC23, you were wrong on three counts to be honest. the amp you have is 2 ohm stable, kicker makes 1 ohm stable sub amps, and the average amp is 2 ohm stable. 1 ohm stable amps are a newer thing, really if you don't count a few of the Orion HCCA models, and even now, 1 ohm stability is an exception, not a rule..
just things to keep in mind.
also, the lower the load you present the amp, the less dynamic headroom you have, the more you stress the power supply in the amp, and the more current you'll need to drive the amp. Your SNR will suffer, as will your THD and damping. the only real advantages to super low impedance loads are watts per dollar, and space used by the amp. (a 500W amp at 4 ohms will be physically larger, and more expensive than a 500W @ 1 ohm amp.)
Boom roasted, thanks Glass! Depending on the site, it does say that amp is 1-ohm stable. And not going against you, but mostly all the kicker amps I was looking into, mostly the newer/older 2500.1, 1000.1 were all 2ohm... But I believe ya. And yeah, I adjusted his gain down a little bit, and kept them running at 4ohms. so he should be all set.
It's possible the car's charging system just couldn't handle the amp at 1 ohm then.. in that case the amp may have just been damaged to lack of sufficient current. Honestly, I don't really use RF stuff, myself. It goes back to the Orion vs RF rivalry in the 80s/90s.. I was an Orion guy. It's like GM vs Ford I guess.
If running at 4 ohms lets it work, then it may be just an issue of need for a bigger alternator.