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A 10w7 fell into my lap and its time to make a box

 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 201
Registered: Jun-05
saw a "new in box 10w7" in the classifieds for 300 bucks so i had to buy it lol

anyways im asking for tips on what kind of box to build

I have access to a shop and quality wood workers( not experienced in car audio)

but any suggestions?
Sealed or ported? (benefits and draw backs)
JL's specs http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7591.pdf
copy the HO box from JL?
If i go sealed box or ported, so long as i keep the net volume the same can i slant the box to match the back seat of my 08 lancer?



amp

Alpine MRD-M605
400 watts x 1 at 4 ohms (600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)

so roughly 500wrms at 3 ohms ( my electrical engineering classes didn't teach me much) lol (ps correct me if im wrong and explain too)

is this amp too sh!tty for the sub?

thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 147
Registered: Apr-10
That amp is fine.

If your asking for benefits and drawbacks of ported vs sealed in a general case, I feel this site sums it up pretty well: http://diyaudiocorner.tripod.com/dilemma.htm

It may be difficult to make the cuts for a ported box to have the back of the box contour to the back of the seat, because your port will most likely extend to the back wall, so the entire port will need to be on an angle. With a sealed box tho itll be cake.

I personally prefer the sound of low tuned ported and wouldn't go with the JL HO box. Which design you make/chose kinda depends on what you need to get out of the system, what do you like to listen to/hear?
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 202
Registered: Jun-05
500wrms is more than loud enough for a daily driver... all i am looking for is SQ...

I like Dub Step/Techno
easy rap
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 148
Registered: Apr-10
Nice, IMO if you listen to dubstep, you won't be happy with sealed or the 33-35 Hz tuning that the JL HO box has. In your case I would do my best to design a box tuned as low as 27-30 Hz, this makes dubstep/electronic sound sooooo nice.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 203
Registered: Jun-05
thanks for the replies guys

also i will be installing elemental designs e3.65i's in my front doors with a shitty mtx 4 channels amp tc4004.... which kinda embarrasses the 10w7.

1) dynamat the front doors?
2)wire the back speaker to the tc4004 or just not hook them up?
3)the ed.651 is a coax with a remouvable tweeter. do i elave the tweeter in the coax spot or should i install it where the factory tweeter is?
4) is a low tuned box louder than a high tuned box?
5) where to install the crossovers for the ed.65i? inside door? trunk?


thanks again guys
 

Gold Member
Username: •cam•

BC Canada

Post Number: 2605
Registered: Nov-06
1) if you can afford it, definitely
2) run 2 channels for tweeters and 2 for the mids so you can fade between them which is really nice. I would unhook the rear speakers - if you're going for quality reproduction, this isn't a bad route.
3) probably mount it where the factory tweeter is or else not too far from the mid. Try them in a few different places with some quality music and see what you like. Does it sound like there are two separate speakers? Read about stereo imaging
4) depends on the frequency - download WinISD and play around. Tuning higher generally gets you more upper bass but hurts sound quality and extension. Tuning below 30 Hz is likely not worth it.
5) wherever - I put mine right by the amp so that adjustments are easy. If you don't bi-wire like I suggested in number 2, then closer to the speakers would use less wire.

The Chesky Records Ultimate Demonstration Disk is great for setting up the system and learning to listen to music. haha sounds funny and it is but kick back and give that CD a whirl, it's worth it imo
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 204
Registered: Jun-05
the crossover that comes with the ed.65i does not have two inputs only just the one. are you suggesting i bypass the crossover and use 2 channels from amp for both the tweeters and the woofers?
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

TX

Post Number: 2258
Registered: Aug-07
1. if your budget allows, yes!!! makes a world of difference for midbass.

2. im not sure of the capability of that amp but im assuming that you will not be able to run active with it. either use 2 channels for front and 2 for rear or bridge the amp to the front speakers. HIGH END amplifiers are able to allow for active setups.

3. havent messed with those speakers so IDK

4. lower tuning will help improve the LOW end of the sub sprectrum while sacrificing the higher notes. and visa versa.

5. do not put them in the doors. run them either under a seat or next to your amplifier. your door will hold moisture and can, over time, ruin the xovers
 

Silver Member
Username: Armykyle1

Ms Us

Post Number: 955
Registered: Dec-08
I second the lower tuning. Sealing up a w7 is a waste IMO lol.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 205
Registered: Jun-05
thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 206
Registered: Jun-05
JL recommends the ported box at 32 Hz

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7591.pdf

But i dont care about SPL the 10w7 will get louder than i will need.
Im 21 but im mature enough now not to have maxSPL... all SQ now

so still go ported?

1) if i should go ported and follow JL's recomnedations can i just slant the box to fit snug with my back seats? or will i have to redesign the box?

2) if i build into the spare wheel well do you think i could design ported still? if i go sealed and in wheel well will the odd shape of the box mess everything up or do i still just make it 35.4 liters as JL recomends? is plus or minus one liter a bad thing because it might be hard to get it right. i have alot of calculus classes under my belt but analyzing the volume on odd shapes might get tricky... how do you test box volume without using a damaging liquid like water?

3) Any recommendations on how much area i will need of dynamat for front doors and maybe trunk?

08 lancer DE


thnaks so much guys this info is great
 

Silver Member
Username: Armykyle1

Ms Us

Post Number: 958
Registered: Dec-08
that isn't an "spl" enclosure, you can still go SQ with ported. I would go with the ported box on the page, Think that will match your music style best.

as for dynamat, the door kit they sell should cover most of your front doors, and the trunk kit will prolly be shy a bit. I've got around a hundred 100^2 feet in my car but the roof and rear doors don't have any deadner on them and my car is a bit smaller than yours.
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 150
Registered: Apr-10
I wouldn't suggest ported in the wheel well, it will most likely not have enough volume and the contour of the box will most likely not allow for a port. As for as sealed goes though, +/- 1 liter will not audibly change the sound of the box, as far as accuracy I would try to keep it between 34-37 liters.

Unless you can describe the shape of your wheel well as f(x,y,z) = ?? then calculus wont help here . What I did for my friends fiberglass enclosure was:
Find a cardboard box. Measure that box to find its volume. Knowing the total volume of the box, find out what % of the box needs to be filled to acquire the volume you will be looking for in your enclosure. Fill that box to said volume using packaging peanuts, then transfer those peanuts to a plastic trashbag. Try to take as much "loose" air out of the bag as possible without crushing the peanuts and then tie the bag off. Now you have a maleable object whose volume reflects the volume of the box you are looking for fairly closely.

ALL THAT being said... Yes you should still go ported. ESPECIALLY for your genre of music. Rap/Electronic/House/Dubstep have a lot of content in the LOW low frequency range which just won't be reflected in a sealed box.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 207
Registered: Jun-05
thank you so much guys.

i think i will go with JL's recommendation on a ported enclosure.

1) any suggestions on how to go about properly making the box slanted to match the back seat(i dont think ill mess with the spare anymore)
2)I will replace the stock battery with something nice and move it to the trunk suggestions?(cost effectiveness)(i live in canada -40deg C in winter)
3) 4 AWG will be enough?
4) should i get a capacitator?
5) if i mount the amps between the back seat and the box will it get too hot?
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 151
Registered: Apr-10
1) Tell me if this is what you mean, I sketched JLs rec. box in solidworks real quick and changed the back to be slanted. Is this what you want to do?
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If so, idk how that will affect airflow so I will let someone else comment on that. Plus that looks like it will be a tough build. One thing is for sure tho, adding a slant like this will decrease box volume and port length slightly, so I would make the box a tad larger and add maybe an inch or 2 to the port length to compensate. You said youve taken calculus so im sure figuring out how much larger you will need to make the box to maintain volume shouldn't be a difficult task for you.

2) Sorry, I have no experience on that.
3) 4 AWG will be perfect.
4) Caps are never necessary, some even argue that they actually have negative effects on your alternator.
5) That will be fine, thats a common place for people to mount their amps. I live in sunny hot sweaty Florida and that amp location seems to work fine, so in cant see it getting worse in Canada.
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 596
Registered: Feb-10
There is a great box calc on home theater shack. And the 12volt has a good calc for figuring tuning of a ported box. That's just the basics. Knowing calculus really doesn't apply to this when their are calculators that do all the work for u. Just saying I have took calculus a few years ago and I really haven't learned anything that applies to the real world because there are so many other useful tools.
Use a box calculator to figure out your box design making a replica box and using to figure out the volume is a waste of time.and it doesn't natter if its not exact. Even modeling your sub still won't give you an exact answer as to what response you will get.
For dubstep you don't want sealed with that sub it won't sound the way you want it to. You definitely want ported and tuning below 30 hz won't sound good either dubstep does not have crazy low bass... Tuning around 35 hz will help you peak in the frequencies that dubstep plays in. or even higher than 35 hz.
Hard for me to say how to build a sound quality set up if your listening to fake music. But you have been given great advice on how to put your system together to sound good and sound much better than a stock system
 

Silver Member
Username: Alonzoub

Post Number: 152
Registered: Apr-10
Well what I meant by ..."You said youve taken calculus so im sure figuring out how much larger you will need to make the box to maintain volume shouldn't be a difficult task for you."... was simply that If he has taken a Math course of that caliber, using simple geometry to solve for volume shouldn't be an issue for him...

Also idk what kind of dubstep you have listened to, but most of the dubstep I have heard gets pretty damn low. I still think the tuning of the box should be NO higher than 32Hz. Oh and... Fake music???
 

Silver Member
Username: Armykyle1

Ms Us

Post Number: 959
Registered: Dec-08
I've got a bad ace dubstep mix tape and my sub stage suffers a bit with playing it since my tuning is around 38ish, I honestly regret having the box built, I knew should have gone lower, even with the amount of metal I listen too,

I had a prefab slanted box before and it worked great for my D3s.

I'll second the cap comment. If you're going with a single bat look into stinger, they're pricy but well worth the money. The SPP1200 should suit you well. it runs about 250. Its relatively small too, its about half the size of my kinetik hc2000 and does the same power. 3yr warranty too.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bakerj72

Regina, Saskatchewan Canada

Post Number: 208
Registered: Jun-05
sooo....

to clarify im looking for a ipod capatible headunit and most of my music will be 192 bit mp3 and the music style is electronic, dub, hip hop, techno

1)so 10w7 with a slanted ported box tuned at XX Hz?
i will move batery to trunk so size isnt an issue
2)cost effective battery to meet the need of a 600ish total Wrms and i live in canada? go to batery store and get a semi battery? a big reconditioned one? I can go stinger i guess but size isnt an issue, just cost efffectiveness. Deep cycle necessary?
 

Silver Member
Username: Armykyle1

Ms Us

Post Number: 960
Registered: Dec-08
if you're using itunes then adjust your settings to 320kbs, there is a difference, I actually use flac files or true"CD quality" none compressed. If you have a decent front stage you love the quality. I won't download anything under 256k and even then I don't like it lol.

I think 32hz should be fine, maybe 30hz.

Is there a reason you're moving the battery to the trunk? I would suggest just adding a battery to the car. No don't use a semi battery lol, you'll need a sealed battery for the trunk. The stinger I named off is an extremely bad ace battery, but I'm sure you'll be fine with a yellow top optima. You can pick them up for about 100-120 if you know where to look.
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