I was thinking of building this box to sell. It fits squarely into my Aleros cabin-trunk opening, so I thought I'd use those dimensions, which is 24 x 16.5. It's for a 12" sub, and it's the optimal space/tune for daily and the mounting cut-out size for a SSD, Q, BL, BTL, Icon, Xcon etc.
outside 24 x 24 x 16.5 1" MDF / 2" baffle / counter-sunk 1" 12.5" diameter sub minimum 2" away from outer edges 45's in 4 corners, keeps port area width at 45 degrees Port 2.75 x 14.5 x 40.875 (15.64-16.01" of port per cube with mentioned sub displacements) 2.67 cubes grosse (yes it is) 2.49-2.55 cubes NET with mentioned sub displacements 2.5 NET (XCON) = 30.5 Hz ranging to within .1 Hz with different subs.
Yes pilot drill the holes the same diameter as ur screw's shaft. don't sink skrews into the wood lengthwise too close to the corner, u will split it. Use drywall screws cuz they have coarse threads. Gorilla woodglue is for the tuffest jobs on the planet. Put a screw every 6-8 inches. Run a bead of quickdry silicone or caulk inside the box on seams. Get a sandind block with some 40 grit...u will need it. Measure thrice cut once.
How could I possibly chaulk all of the inside seams when I need to close the box, and if I have to close the box than I can't get to the seams. It's not like I can stick my arm through the port with a mirror and chaulk at the same time lol.
I also pre drill for every screw I put in and I also love the gorilla glue wood glue and a good screw size I like is 1 5/8 but maybe use a little bigger if your using 1 in mdf. I also glue every piece I put on
the best way to seal is to do everything before you put the top piece on. Then once you put the top piece on reach in through the sub cut out and finish the rest
Also to help seal it to be air tight you can use fiberglass resin. Just mix some up and use like a 2 dollar 3 inch throw away paint brush and go crazy covering the whole inside. You have around 15 min before it hardens but should only take like 5 min to do. And do it on a warm day so it dries. Or else if you put it in your car not dried it will smell like it for a while.
Does this look right? Outside dimentions 24 x 24 x 16.5.
top - 24 x 24 x 1 bottom - 24 x 24 x 1 front (baffle) - 20.25 x 14.5 x 1 (two) back - 24 x 14.5 x 1 side - 21 x 14.5 x 1 outer port wall - 23 x 14.5 x 1 inner port wall (front to back) - 18.25 x 14.5 x 1 inner port wall (side to side) 15.5 x 14.5 x 1
It' caulk and u should prolly do as much as u can w top off cuz its kinda aggravating going through sub cutout. Also go to the hospital and snag come rubber gloves. Resin is a biaatch. I would not fool with resin tho. Also, IMO u should make the front one (or 2 cuz the port) flat piece to the vviewer....u kno, so u wont see a top smashed down on top of it. Make the front and the back 2 inches taller and the top and bottom 2 incches shallower. Ur sides will stay the same tho. But i like the sides that are squeezed in between the top, bot, front, back....u knawmean?? To give that clean look, but its a bit harder to put together.Also, when u list dimensions like that, could u please put w, h, or d?
You don't really need to use chaulk. If you cuts are square, there should be glue that oozes out when you put each board on, you ca just use your finger (or put some more glue on your finger) and run it down the inside edge. so essentially your using the glue as a seal.
I personally use titebond 2 wood glue when building boxes. Predrill anywhere you plan to put a screw, you could even counter sink it a bit so your screws are flush or a little deeper so you can fill the holes in if you want. It makes the drilling easier/ faster if you have more than one drill. Run a bead of glue on both pieces of wood before screwing them together. It's also nice to have multiple and different size wood clamps. Fiberglass resin isn't a caulk and you don't have to steal from a hospital to get latex gloves. They are available for purchase at most stores, i.e. Walmart, walgreens, menards, home depot etc
Thanks everyone, but this went down hill. My dads tools are up north, and when I asked if the lumber yard could cut the wood they didn't gauarantee accuracy, and said they probably couldn't cut it anyways, even though I made the cut sheet stupid simple. 1" MDF seems like it's almost double the price of .75", so I'm re-designing for .75", now I don't know what to do, maybe plan a box around a sheet of 4'x8'.
That would be great Bassman thanks. I'll get going on another design, are you using 4x8 sheets? I might as well buy 1 sheet and cut that up just enough so that I can have 6 sides + double baffle + inner port wall or two.