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Wall talk

 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 364
Registered: Oct-10
With the wall builds in cars you've seen, how did they get the target space? Was it a box or was it L/R sides + front + back + different angles + different angles + different angles ETC, brought together with fiberglass? How did they get it to stay put (bolting to the frame)?

I can fit a box that's 49 wide (door to door), and fit 30" high through the door, and have about 20" depth to work with. The roof (from the raised part of the floor - like under the rear seat, with the rear-seat out) is 32.5-33" (the interior light knob is the .5", I'd rip that out lol). At the roof, from b-pillar to b-pillar, is 39" near the front seats. At the back seat, at the roof, from door to door (window to window really) is 32", but only if the height is around 25". If I were to make a wall incorporating all those angles I'd go bezerk. Is that how a wall is built?

Why port on the drivers side, why not above the sub(s) where the headrests are? Does the seat not block the port? I thought a port should be aiming at the least restrictive area, for instance between the headrests.

What about this guy with 2 21" Wardens in a Neon? How'd he do that?

Have you ever seen an entirely fiberglassed wall? As in, the baffle is wood and everything behind it is fiberglassed to hell?

Do walls stretch into the trunk?

If the box isn't symmetrical at the back do the subs load all weird?

When should one use 1" MDF over .75"?
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 568
Registered: Feb-10
You can fiberglass to fit your angles. But that's a ton of work. Most people would just try to get the width and height covered and use foam to fill the rest of the open space. But man.that looks so ugly. I would never want to wall off my car personally. Too much work and such a mess just to destroy a car.
Nothing wrong with port above subs . I imagine if someone does the port on the drivers side they have a few inches of room for the port to breathe
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 367
Registered: Oct-10
I'm planning a wall, but I want it done by 2 weeks. This has to be budgety and used.

What do you mean "foam to fill the rest of the open space"? Do you mean a wall is built like an IB setup, and there is no back or sides of the box, it's just foam covered in all around behind the baffle in the nooks & crannies... ? That would be like 30-40 cubes, and apart from having to secure and fiberglass the baffle, it would probably be even less of a headache, it would be lighter, and I could do, um, like, 4 18's in massive space. I think it would be rad for someone behind me to look into my rear window and see magnets. I think the coolest part is that I could even open the rear doors and throw things behind the baffle that I can't fit in the trunk. I'm not sure how I feel about using the rear windows as sides of the "box". I'm not so sure about a ported infinite baffle, that's like a paradox? I stear clear of paradoxe's'.

I can't do b-pillar to b-pillar because my naughts would be all up in thy steering wheel, if you know what I mean, and I think you do, because I made it pretty clear.

If someone does port on drivers side, and it's hitting the back of a front seat, how does it have room to breath?

I think next week I'm going to buy a Dayton Classic 18" to wall (box behind the front seats), a 300W sub amp, a pair of 4x6's and an amp for them, and a deck. I'm not sure if I'm down-grading from an 05 RE XXX 12 on 1500W, 2.2 @ 36 in a Sunfire trunk. I still have the XXX and 1500W amp, but they're both blown, and I doubt that my Alero's stock electrical will handle 1500W. I'll keep the electrical stock besides the big 3 and fat wiring. If the sub is wack than I'll throw it in the house on my 600W HT to replace the ported (60 Hz pfft) Sony 10" on 100W.

Playing around with box designs, I can fit like 9 cubes, but the lowest tune I'm getting, without going lower than 12" of port per cube, is like 36 Hz. It only has 8.25mm xmax, so how much port does it really need?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 368
Registered: Oct-10
How's this look...

I don't have the displacement, I imagine it's .1-.2.

sub outside 18
sub inside 17

.75" MDF / 1.5" baffle

sealed (outside):

49.5 wide x 19.5 height (with port 27.5) x 20 depth (20.75 total)

Port 15 wide x 7.25 height

Port length = 20(+.75-.75)-3.625 = 16.375 = 36 Hz, under or over by .1 Hz depending on the displacement.

... it's 9.25 grosse, should be 9.05 NET.

I suppose if I were calculating how much added space the hole in the baffle gives, it'd be 17/2=8.5*8.5*3.14*.75/1728 = .0984 cubes, so it should put it very close to 9 @ 36.
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