$1000 sub/amp budget..

 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 18
Registered: Feb-11
What do you guys suggest?

I'm currently running a Alpine PDX F4 4-channel amp bridged to a set of hertz hsk165xl(will probably upgrade to milies later).. I'm looking into a new sub set up and just curious what you guys would recommend? I'm looking for SQL and listen to mostly rap, hip-hop, reggae, some rock
 

Silver Member
Username: Mystre

Pemberville, Ohio USA

Post Number: 724
Registered: Sep-05
What are looking at 10" or 12", 1 or 2 subs? What about the box for the sub?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 19
Registered: Feb-11
I have about 3.5 cubes to give up.. So one or two, ported or sealed
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 20
Registered: Feb-11
Sorry.. 12"+
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana Team Audible...

Post Number: 8482
Registered: Mar-04
What vehicle?
Year, make and model?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 21
Registered: Feb-11
2010 honda civic sedan.. Thanks
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 312
Registered: Oct-10
How much power? Do you want to buy an alt, batts, and an expensive amp? If not than use a ported box. If you can spend $400 on a 2000W amp than use 2 12's in a sealed box.

1 ported 12" or 15" could be louder, just not below the tune - if you like reggae than you'll want a good low-end extension (something better than -24dB/octave) so I think a sealed box would suit your needs best, but only if you use an LMS-type motor, for instance the Eclipse SW8210 in 1.8 cubes NET sealed yields QTC .5 / FC 27 Hz / F3 42 Hz, 750W RMS & 86.5 dB sensitivity, it's hard to find but its response when sealed is bar none. The manual says they can handle 1500W if it's clean power.

LMS motors - look at TC Sounds LMS-R (1k), Audiopulse LM (1.5k), Soundsplinter LMS-R (2k), Eclipse SW series (670W LMS & 750W non-LMS) (8000 & 8200 - old LMS motors / 8210 & 8010 - new non-LMS, all are hard to find but Sonicelectronics sold them for $160 for awhile, and they went fast).

If on the budget side, look at a Audioque SDC2.5-15 ($159) for 3.5 cubes @ 30-35 Hz, 500-600W amp. People are saying it's really loud and the lows are really good even when tuned high.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 22
Registered: Feb-11
How much power can I typically run including highs
before having to upgrade my alternator?
 

Gold Member
Username: 420pimp2

Atlantic City , , NJ

Post Number: 1087
Registered: Jan-06
on a civic somewere around 1200
 

Gold Member
Username: 420pimp2

Atlantic City , , NJ

Post Number: 1088
Registered: Jan-06
you could go higher but at the same time it would be a huge strain on your alt and batt. you can get a ho alt for about 250. that will leave the rest for whatever your looking into
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 23
Registered: Feb-11
Really? I haven't even considered that yet because I always assumed they ran around 5-6bills.. What's a good brand?

Lord-
What about a 13w6?
 

Gold Member
Username: Kyle_lowe

Post Number: 1292
Registered: Apr-06
13w6 is a good sq sub but they are grossly overpriced
 

Silver Member
Username: Lord_huggington

Ontario Canada

Post Number: 316
Registered: Oct-10
Yep. The W6 is good sealed or ported, just not for $400. Maybe find one used?

Alts - Iraggi, Mechman, DC, Ohio Generators to name the ones I know, and you'll hear complaints and good things about all of them. You can also send a stocker out to get beefed up.

A battery is like $120. Buy new.

I'd use an extra battery for every 1000W, but I'm sure you could get away with 1 battery per 1500W, meaning 1000W to a sub and around 500W for the fronts, just get a good alternator so the battery doesn't drain as hard.

I had a 90A alt, big 3, 2 runs of 0 gauge, stock battery, with a 1500W sub amp and the lights didn't even dim. The amp probably never saw 1000W though, and made unclean power as a result. It will eventually strain everything. If the sub amp randomly shuts off while listening to music than it could mean that the battery was sustaining it too, and it ran out of juice, went below useable voltage and kicked in the circuit protection. It happened to me like twice.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 24
Registered: Feb-11
Yes, I've already upgraded to a Kinetic 1400 and also did the big 3.. What do people mean when they say # runs of 0 gauge?
 

Gold Member
Username: •cam•

BC Canada

Post Number: 2598
Registered: Nov-06
# of cables
one 0 guage for positive
then add another also for positive and you have 2 runs
 

Gold Member
Username: Drant19

TX

Post Number: 2215
Registered: Aug-07
i like the 13w6 option the most so far.

why?
-3.5 cubes isnt a lot of space, do you want to give up all the trunk space for bass? if so then you got some options
-the 13w6 doesnt require a lot of box space to perform well. its a very musical sub, meaning it will hit highs and lows. (Ive heard one in 2cubes@34Hz and it was very accurate)
-it's in budget and wont cause you to require additional funds for a High Output Alt/batteries/etc.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2738
Registered: Apr-07
That crescendo 2000 for 275 is a good buy for sub amp. Its more power than your factory alternator and battery can handle, but you will have overhead and room to upgrade down the road.
A new DC lvl 4 xl should be about 500, leaving you around 225 to make a box etc. I think that should sound great and be one of your loudest options.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Sqcivic

Post Number: 25
Registered: Feb-11
Thanks for all of your input guys
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