being played below watever the box is tuned to, notice at the end it has crazy excursion? ya its most defiantly bottoming out, but its only a l5 so its all good lmao.
ohhh my bad lol even though l7's still suck, but keep playing it like that eventually the surrond will just rip apart, also id bet money you bent the former so have fun when you get coil rub.
Just set your SSF to roughly your boxes tuning freq. And don't overdrive the amp...aka don't clip it.
"Nonlinear" is pretty much the point of excursion at which the subs no longer moves in a normal linear fashion. The VC can rock and strike the pole piece and cause it to rub, which in turn causes more problems.
From the sounds I heard on your vid, you were rapping the hell out of that sub.
If you have any questions, drop by the shop some time. I give you a hand setting your amp.
Also, w/ L7's you have to watch out for the triple joint ripping. I see about 3-4 out of 10 L7's come in the shop w/ ripped triple joints, the spiders just fail.
If you continue to push your subs that hard w/ the SSF set incorrectly, you will likely see spider/suspension failure soon.
nice said cannan! l7s are known to fail square subs just dont last espically beating it like you did. The former is the tube the copper wire is wraped around that noise you heard is that tube hitting the back of magnet essentially.
Dustin, actually it is not the VC hitting the back plate. It is the VC hitting the pole piece. Those subs are suspension limited, so in order for the VC former to hit the back plate you would have to totally rip the triple joint.
I am mean to the subs. But the strange noises before the terrible noise was my back glass. That thing wobbles like crazy. i will stop by the shop when I get over that way definately. I like the idea of some DD subs. Yall keep some in stock?
Yep, ext cab back glasses rattle to hell and back. I beat the hell out of my 98 silverado at 155dB+...lol.
Dope in some time, hell email me ahead of time and I'll have my TermLab on hand to meter your truck. If your willing to stay after closing, I'll meter it for free in the bay.
I'm trying to get my little SPL team, Team Audible Insanity, back up and running here at the shop. If you show some potential as prospective local member, I'll see what I can do on some DD subs
Come hear NIckV's 150dB pair of DD2510's and my 151 daily @ 38hz
Cool man. yea my back glass is a junk-yard donor slider. the outer seal has all but worked out. I live outside of Monroe in Mer Rouge (just past Bastrop) and rarely take the beast V10 there cuz the 8-9 mpg and all. but I will make a trip soon fasho. I would love to know how loud my system is, ive never been metered. What are yalls hours?
I had a 05 RE XXX 12 on 1500W (Sunfire with stock electrical) in 2.2 @ 36, and I accidentally burped 20Hz at full volume by putting a CD in and forgetting the volume was up. I looked back, and it looked like it was going to jump out of the box but it retained its SQ lol. Excurting like I'd never seen, car off, that amp must have put out maybe 800W with a stock 90A alt? I thought for awhile that the amp put out more power for a couple seconds or 20 Hz is a hell of a lot louder to the ear than 40 Hz. Luckily this happened with a bunch of people around and I got some envious looks. It's definetly not safe though.
Yea, I ripped the hell out of an Adire Brahma 10" at ~20hz in a 34hz box once. Ripped the spiders off the landing platform...lol, but I really let that sub have it.
I have also been known to give DD2515's hell, but that was w/ 20kw+, no testing, a Jeezy CD and a little nudge from a teammate. On the bright side, I set a new state record w/ that run...lmao.
What happends if you play music under the port tune, is the LPF supposed to protect it 100% or is it just bad always? How do you measure over-excursion and know where to put the filter exactly? If tuned at 34 Hz, do you put the LPF to 34 Hz? I had mine at 30-35 Hz, and now that I think about it, I must of had it set to 20 Hz when it went off.
'on paper' tuning can and will mean next to nothing 'in cabin'. Sub and port loading can determine the actual excursion far more than the 'tuning' of the box. The best way to set a SSF is to watch what freq your sub is moving too much, and set the SSF above that freq to protect it.
As for the LPF, that will be determined by the accuracy your sub can produce higher bass freq, distance to the sub from listening position, and the lowest freq your mids can produce without distorting.
