Does anyone know if this box would fit in a new model VW GTI hatch, through the hatch door? It's for 12 12's up-fire in 24 cubes @ 34 Hz. Outside dimensions are 39.5 width * 27.45 height * 63.25 length.
How big are these hatches? How big of a box could you throw in your hatch?
I dont know anything about vw but 63.25 inches wide seems a little hopefull. My box is 61 wide and fits SNUG in my Dodge Ram. But if you do get it in there, I gotta see pics and vids
i have a vw with a boy about that size... i am about 99% sure u wont get that to fit unless u put it in piece by piece and put it together inside the car
I didn't think so. How about 39.5w x 19.5t x 52d? I'm pretty sure that between the wheel-wells is 39.6", and building to 39.5" width would require a bit of the box being built in the car, which is added security. I've got this picture of 8 ported 12's in an Integra, and it looks like it could fit 4 12's deep. Integra is 172.4 ext. length and the GTI is 165.8.
I can't find any GTI builds.
I've got a 4-door Dakota too but it's not a daily driver because it's so bad on gas.
Well if a GTI can't fit 4 12's deep than I might as well make the most of the space and do and a 3*3 square with 9 12's. 3 amps each at 1.33 ohm or all of them on one amp @ ? ohm. Maybe I'll look into an Integra.
what year is the gti? i would get a gti for sure. those are LOUD cars. everything i have thrown in my car was louder than expected. i put a single 12 in because i was working on my wall... that single 12 could still set off my neighbors car alarm.... when i finished the wall i had some visits with the cops. lol
but get that GTI! after u get it worry more about what u can make fit. a pair of 15s will fit in the back easy. have u built boxes before? u might have to put parts of the box in and put it together inside the car. but i think u will be happy with that
The goal is good SQ with lots of low end. I like the idea of 12 12's sealed in 18 cuft with 9k RMS, either 2 amps at .67 ohm or ? I don't care for SPL at higher frequencies. If I could look back and see 12 12's than I'd sh!t speaker wire, it just needs to fit into 39.5 x 52 x 22 (3" baffle), and I'm pretty sure it can because if the wheel-well is 39.5", there has got to be another 12.5" depth ways or atleast it looks like it.
This is messed up but they should all fit in a wall in an S10 extreme. My friends truck measured like 45 height x 52 width x up to 22 (touching the console) even 19" depth is 21.15 cubes. I hate hatchbacks. Maybe.
if ur going to do that much power and u want lows dont go sealed... get some 18s and port it low... if its going to be that big a 3 inch baffles is not enough. my baffle is for 4 15s and i burp 4k.. i have 8 layers of 3/4
The baffle is the side the sub is on. 6" sounds like over-kill.
Sealed because in 1.5 cubes they roll off at 28Hz and are like -8dB @ 20Hz, not many will do that. I like the sound of a sealed box more, these things would sound tight. 12 sealed 12's would be deadly lows, more so than 2 ported 18's, atleast under 30Hz. Than again I don't really know.
u can port them to make them play the lows better than sealed... thats kinda the purpose of porting a box. 12 12s is so much cone area... what kind of 12s are u looking at getting?
2 21s would be sick.
if u will have 9k watts and that much cone area u need a thick baffle with braces. a sheet of steel would even be nice.. and welding a frame would be wise also... i don't think u realize how much cone area and power this really is. if u do it right it could be really loud.
my wall is tuned to 36Hz and i have played with it tuned really high and low.. it actually gets louder if i tune it lower. if u don't have to.. i wouldn't make a wall.... but to be honest i dont think u r going to do anything ur just talking
I want to sell my Alero for a GTi, old golf, focus, etc. Any good hatch that has a flat floor with the rear seats down is good. Until then, I'm not touching the Alero. I'm using a sealed Eclipse SW8200 right now, and I have a blown 05 XXX 12 D2 that I might sell. I've upgraded too many times without significant gains so this time I want either lots of cone or a wall.
I've never heard a wall, and I don't know how to build one. A big throw-in box would of course be easier but if I had 2 21's I would pay for someone to build me a proper wall. I didn't think you used as much as 6" for a baffle! The loudest daily car I've heard was an Integra with 8 ported/upfire MTX 12's. It sounded like a T-REX stomping around, and that's what I've wanted since.
i am sure u can get louder than those 12s easy! the thing with walls are that they are not always louder. its a testing thing really.. some times a big crx style box is louder than a wall. if i were u i would go for two big subs wit the port facing back.. a pair of 21s might be to much box space for GTI or golf... but i am sure u can get 20cuft in if u shape it to fit. just remember than cone area is not everything. i have 4 15s.. and if i could go back in time i would change that to 4 15s or a pair of 18s because i think i could make that louder because i would have more room to play with for the box.
what ever u end up doing don't forget to make the box two times stronger than it needs to be... then make it even stronger! if u put ur hand on the box and play it on a burp or a low not and can feel a vibration that means u r loosing sound. if ur going with 9k watts.. look at those smd accendant audio sub.. i really believe 2 of those 18s with 9k watts would make u very happy.
18s in a box size made to fit will be louder than 21s in a box to small.
"i have 4 15s.. and if i could go back in time i would change that to 4 15s"
2 15's?
How much space does a 21 need, tuned low?
What happends to the kinetik energy of a kick when a wall doesn't vibrate at all?
Is it true that less space = louder, and with more space the low end is improved?
You're saying that 2 subs upfire and behind the front seats with the port to the rear could be louder than the same things in a wall? Maybe sound lower to the ear? I would much rather it be louder to the ear.
What signifies that a sub can get low in a ported box or has a wider frequency response, for instance below the port tune is sub 1 going to roll off later than sub 2? My APX had better lows than my XXX in the same box. Is this all xmax and f/s?
Why is the SMD 18 meant for up to "only" 7 cubes? What's the advantage of two motors?
Are the Warden and SMD very different in SQ? The 21 is what, +95dB efficiency and the SMD 18 is 91.5. Big difference?
port 4.5 x 35.25 / 15.856 per cube maximum physical port length 30.3 (32.55) @ 31.543 Hz port length 24.69 @ 34.9 Hz port length 22.75 @ 35.9 Hz port length 19.3 @ 37.9 Hz port length 17.25 (15 sub depth + end correction 2.25 = 17.25) @ 39.31 Hz
port 3.5 x 35.25 / 12.332 per cube maximum physical port length 31.3 (33.05) @ 28.057 Hz port length 23.5 @ 31.896 Hz port length 20 @ 33.75 Hz port length 18 @ 34.97 Hz port length 14 @ 37.87 Hz
port 11 x 11 / 12.095 per cube port length 27 @ 30.057 Hz port length 17.6 @ 34.953 Hz
How you guys run these huge ports with 36 Hz tune? You using way more space than 10 cubes?
port 11 x 11 / 12.095 per cube maximum physical port length 23.8 (29.3) @ 29.14 Hz port length 27 @ 30.057 Hz physical port length as a wave guide to the back of the sub (15+5.5) 20.5 port length @ 33.196 Hz port length 17.6 @ 34.953 Hz
Would this fit depth & height ways? Would it be strong enough? Loud n stuff? I like it so far... 15 cubes @ 34 Hz.
12 DCON or Fi X 10's ported/upfire
2" MDF / 4" baffle / 1.25" spacing between subs & 2" from outsides outside 39.5 W x 59 D x 22.5 H 16.18609 / 14.98609 cubes NET (1.248 each) / .1 displacement (DCON 10) port 5.25 L x 35.5 W x 15.25 D (physical) / 17.875 D (actual / end correction 2.625) 12.4365" per cube 33.9121 Hz
usually the more power u put in a sub the small size of a box it needs
the way people like me and other people with big ports is... make it long. my box is maybe 26 cuft .. but when they say cuft they mean after you take out the space for the port and subs and anything else that could be inside of the box likes braces. what i have found to help a lot is the baffle. don't think thickness. think stronger. i think it would be smart for u to not use mdf. try birch and still make it thick with braces inside.
if ur box does not vibrate at all... its good have u had a phy class before? if u put force on something it pushes back. you have a normal for from how you stand on the floor.. if the floor was not strong you would either sink or be falling down. if the floor is solid it wont move. all of the energy you put on the floor will go right back at you with no energy lose.
if you can have a box that doesn't flex ... it will be louder
i have not played with the smd subs yet.. i just have read great things about them and i have a friend that talks very highly of them. what i suggest is get the car first.. something that has a lot of room in the back like a blazer or golf.. something with a hatch works great...
after u get the car we will go from that. i do know if u get a vw getting bigger alternators are pretty high in price
2 18 were to wide.. 3 15s were not as well centered as 4 12s... its kinda a funny shape that i have in my car i had problems with some of my subs getting to close to my port and free airing a little. having all of the subs in phase is important..