Tejcurrent Tahoe Rebuild

 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2621
Registered: Apr-07
I'm rebuilding my Tahoe for 2011. It will be several months before it's finished due to time and cost restraints, but before Spring if all goes well. I'd like to get to start off March or so competing. I don't want to let out all the details before hand, but somewhere between 20-40kw no wall. Before installing the equipment I'm spending a ton of time/effort on the electrical system.

A month or so ago I decided I wanted to do a nicer looking setup, so I chose aluminum bus bars simply because I like the look of l.e.d. lit polished aluminum over copper. There's enough metal involved I don't think it will have much effect on things.

They are approximately 30 inches long, with 27 slots of 1/0 (though I think 2/0 would fit). 6 runs of 1/0 from the front for power, and 6 for ground, for a total of 12 runs of power wire. Basically one run of + an - per alternator as I'm shooting for 6 alternators. I'm almost finished with the bracket just need some one-off pulleys machined. There will be around 1500 amps peak with 1100 or so at idle.

I'm also shooting for at least 8 XS Power D3100s in back, with 2 S3400s up front. These will be connected by their own busbars, but I wanted to run 1 run of 1/0 per battery. Each wire is fused where it connects with 300a fuse. There's a total of around 250-300 ft of 1/0 being used to hook everything up. I'm not sure how much power I'm going to settle on, but I want to be prepared.

Playing around in Sketchup laying it out. One fused for power, one solid for ground:
Upload
Upload

A raw aluminum piece before polishing.
Upload

Quick light polishing just to test some different compounds.
Upload

And the main bars:
Upload
Upload

I'll continue to update this thread as I do more work. I'll be putting the quad alt bracket in as my new pulleys arrive for the alts, plus welding the battery rack, etc etc etc. The additional 2 alts are a +2 bracket that should be a nice bolt on for those with a quad kit

Any suggestions on an 18" sub that will handle 5kw for long periods of time? I already have it narrowed to 2 choices but it's nice to get opinions on something I haven't considered.
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 496
Registered: Feb-10
im subscribed!!! lol
email me and tell me what your thinking! i wont tell anyone.
i say for subs build your own! lol
or i know soundstream xxx's can take that power all day. or maybe get shocker motors and build them up yourself?
this build is going to be insane! you might have heart failure just sitting inside the car
 

Gold Member
Username: Extrmndor3

Http://illuzonemu.serv..., ^^^Sick Game

Post Number: 8475
Registered: Feb-06
nice and this is not about selling alts.

ill be watching this is going to be cool.
 

Silver Member
Username: Jbpitt

Pittsburgh, Pa. Usa

Post Number: 973
Registered: Jul-09
This is going to be pretty crazy! With that much power and that many alts you could power a small 3rd world country.
 

Gold Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 1316
Registered: Oct-09
This is going to be a sweet build.
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1691
Registered: Sep-09
i have been waiting on this, troy your builds give me engineer's lust.

i would say contact Nick or Scott at FI and ask if they will design a sub just for you, be the first with a 5" VC?

any word on amp's you might be using? saz-4500's? saz 200.4? RF amps? AQ? something i have not heard of? maybe your own line of amps?

what brand of power wire? knu? stinger? kicker? shok?

very nice work so far, keep us posted with lots of yummy pics!
 

Platinum Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Philadelphia, PA

Post Number: 11600
Registered: Jul-06
I wish I had 1/5 the time, money, and ambition troy has. lol.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16797
Registered: Jul-05
E has got its own SMD with troy

sounds like it will be a KILLER system - looking forward to it.....
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1693
Registered: Sep-09
SMD + mechman + toolmaker = troy
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1694
Registered: Sep-09
oh troy why XS Power over any other brand? just personal preference or do you have some sexy science behind it?
 

Gold Member
Username: Delsole

Post Number: 1761
Registered: Feb-05
I wanna start off with saying the bars and connects are looking great.

On another note SMD does not have a single thing on you and as another member said i think it would be cool if you had your own sub. I have been looking for a sub that can take some serious power on music lately and i think i have almost narrowed it down to the crossfire xsv2's. I know no body ever recommends them here but they are made by the guys that makes the fi woofers. There are some people burping them with the 14k stetrom amps one on each sub. I have heard they will take 4k on music to. I heard they were coming out with some better ones soon that would have better excursion. But i have also heard they sound very good and hit the low notes very well. I believe they use the old tc sounds baskets. If your not familiar with them you would have to google them because there site is out of date.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 16079
Registered: Jun-04
sounds good troy looking forward to the build
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 23978
Registered: Jun-06
Yet another beast.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2623
Registered: Apr-07
haha, no SM definitely has a leg up on me, hell more than a leg. He already has his own subs and making subs wouldn't even be an option lol.


If I could find the SS XXX for less than ~1100 shipped I might go with it, but there are other similar options I've found cheaper. The Crossfire looks nice, but still uses the 3" coil and would be pretty similar to a BTL etc.Thanks for the suggestion though!

For wire I have pretty much all Knu OFC red power, but since I can't see pulling out my old wiring I'll have Shok and Kicker Flex grounds. I have about 10 ft of Shok left, but after that's used up I'll get some Knu probably.

I already have 4 XS batteries, so adding another 5-6 wouldn't be much more expensive than switching brands. I've used 2-3 other brands and these were the best, so I'm sticking with them.

Thanks guys, I'm looking forward to getting louder again, I miss bass lol.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16799
Registered: Jul-05
xs & kinetik r among the best batts around - look at any big build & note what they use

14k on music for a single sub ? - not hating but i doubt that very much , may not be able to play for long with that amt of power : tc lms \ AA smd \ dc l5 or 6 wud be nice choices though...
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1695
Registered: Sep-09
care to share what other options you might be looking at besides the BTL N's or the SMD subs ?

what about amps? top 3-5 pics so far?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 16095
Registered: Jun-04
im not sure what the lvl 6's take but they are definitely better than the lvl 5's
 

Gold Member
Username: Delsole

Post Number: 1762
Registered: Feb-05
Call Roger from crossfire. I may be wrong but im pretty sure they use the 4 inch coils with the 10 inch spiders. There site is restarted it has no valuable info whatsoever. The only thing that catches my eye is the new neo motors since my new build will be in a civic and i dont think cross fire has any of those out yet.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2625
Registered: Apr-07
I'll be using 4-6 subs giving them between 5-10kw per sub. If I do go with 10kw per sub I'll keep it turned down for daily use and have plenty of overhead for comps.

Subs: the TC LMS is like finding a Unicorn. T3 TSNS, RD SHW, BTL N2, SS XXX, DC lvl 5 (never got a call back from Rusty on lvl 6s), AQ HDC4 (they wont sell me any till they're released in March-May 2011 though), and I'll be checking into Crossfire. Fi has been really good to me in the past, so it's really going to boil down to - is it worth an extra 1-2000 bucks for anything other than BTLs.

If I do less than 5kw per sub I know BTLs will be fine, and I like them just fine for the cost. More power than that and I really need a 4" coil if I want them to hold up long, but for some reason the companies that make subs with those ratings have flaky customer service. Let me clarify:
RD, TC, T3, TREO all have a great 4" coil sub, but mixed reviews on wait times and customer service. I'm not putting anyone down, but it is what it is.

If no one buys my amp I'll be sort of stuck doing 2 1000.1s. Amp choices: 2 1000.1s, (1 or 2) Soundigital 16ks or 12ks, (2 or 4) SD 8ks. (4-8) 4-5kw amps: Sundown, Cactus, etc.I'm going to wait until I have cash in hand and buy from whoever gives me the best price for the power I want- with space limitations in mind.

Once I see how my amp sells I'll pick the amp(s), then see about the subs from there. It'll be at least another 2 months on the battery rack and 6 alternator bracket, then time wire everything nice. I REALLY want to drop my old 4 BTL box in the car on this AB 1000.1 with 4 18s just to see what sort of score I can get, since I have a friend arguing my old scores being under 155 had nothing to do with my previous voltage drop.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 16104
Registered: Jun-04
Rusty will get back to you just give him a reminder call if need be.....dont be afraid to ask for custom subs he will do it for you
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1698
Registered: Sep-09
maybe nick or scott would shove a 4" coil on the N2's for you if you ask nicely.

i am very excited for this project, thanks for the update man.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2626
Registered: Apr-07
No chance on the 4" N2 Also I've tried calling Rusty more than once with no response, no sweat though. I'd sort of like something already available. Maybe I'll try him again when I'm ready for the subs, but I'd like to keep the budget for subs under $4k.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16801
Registered: Jul-05
when the time comes maybe u ought to get ur subs custom built so u get exactly what u want , pierce or psi ...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 16111
Registered: Jun-04
my brother said it took him two days to call him which is very unusual. My bro said hes been playing catch up with subs right now so hes very busy.
 

Gold Member
Username: Skdooley

Roanoke, VA Usa

Post Number: 1323
Registered: Oct-09
I know some people say to run a battery isolator when running additional batteries in the rear, but when running that many alts and that many batteries do you still run an isolator? How would that work if you did, I wouldn't think they would make one that large. My assumption is you wouldn't need to run one. Just curious.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2627
Registered: Apr-07
Someone gave me an isolator and I can't sell the thing for the life of me. Isolators cause resistance and basically voltage drop. The purpose of an isolator is to charge both, but when you play music with the car off you only drain the rear batteries. I'll never use one, it would do me more harm than good for sure.

I may contact DC, but I'm pretty set on one of my options. Price is really becoming my biggest factor, though I really want the best performance and don't mind paying 1-200 more per sub if it's worth it.

I don't want rebuilt subs simply because I want new stuff. Kind of petty, but it looks better at shows to say I have x companies best sub than to say I have a 4hp motor with 4" coil and 10" spider (which most people wont understand anyway). It's even a bit frustrating because I say I have 20,000w and people will say "oh my friends friend had 30,000 watts between 4 boss audio amps and sold it because he got tired of replacing trunk hoods and windshields." Or some crap like that. This is the first build I'm really going for some 'show' factor, so while custom subs would work find, wouldn't get the same sort of attention imo.
 

Gold Member
Username: Delsole

Post Number: 1765
Registered: Feb-05
I was always told that if your running the same kind and brand of batteries parallel is not a big deal. But when you start mixing up brands and kinds that a battery idolater is a safer idea.
 

Silver Member
Username: 813thumper

Tampa, FL United States

Post Number: 198
Registered: Sep-09
should wait for the atmos audio IONs. heard that they have one and have been testing it on an atomic 7k for a couple months
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2628
Registered: Apr-07
I can't find anything on them, but whenever I'm buying the subs I'll give them a call to see what they have. Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm most likely not getting any work done this week, though I may get those busbars polished up some. I still have to redo the rack under my seats where I'm placing them- I'll take pics of removing the old/installing the new pretty soon probably.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

2 hifonics 2607s, 2dcSounds12xls SPL\idmax12SQ

Post Number: 16117
Registered: Jun-04
cool look forward to it
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2630
Registered: Apr-07
Started testing a bit more with polishing those bars. The aluminum stock had been banged up and then sanded, so it had deep pits and scratches that needed a good bit of sanding. I did 80, 120, 220, 350, 600, 1000, and 2000 grit, wetsanding with the last few. Then some polish, which I'll need a bit longer wetsanding- the scratches just aren't visible until the aluminum is buffed unfortunately.

First off I'm redoing the rack under my seats. I carpeted it and made a cheap mdf plate like 3+ years ago. It looks like crap, so I'm making up something with birch and using vinyl + plexi.

Now
Upload
Upload

Laying out the dimensions for the bus bars.
Upload
Upload

You can see the grain from sanding
Upload
And the deep scratches
Upload

After 220 grit
Upload

And 2000 grit
Upload
I still have a whole bag full of these things to sand/polish. Figure each one has 2x the sides that need polished as 1 big bar, so it's like sanding 5 big bars, I'm estimating about 1-2 hours per bar.
Upload

That aluminum dust stains like crazy, but after a bit of buffing it's very reflective. Still a ton more work to do on them, I just got about 2 hours in today, including stopping by the store to pick up buffing supplies.
Upload
Upload
Upload

They'll probably still have some grain in them when I'm done, but I'm pretty happy with the result so far.
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1704
Registered: Sep-09
Upload

personally i like both polished and textured bars, both looked good.

are you changing out the eclipse amp?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2632
Registered: Apr-07
lol, weird picture.
I'm going to be using led's around these bars, so I figure the almost chrome look would 'show' best. I like the brushed look, but I'm going for a really clean appearance when it's all said and done and the polished bars just look a bit nicer to me.

I'm not sure on the amp. I'd like to step up my power there, but with the size of these bars there really isn't a lot of room for a bigger amp. I'm only using 2 channels at the moment, and probably will only use this amp on my front stage, with a 2nd amp or plain h/u power on some rear fill when my kids get old enough to need music. I still have at least a year or two on that, so I'll wait till then. I'm debating on getting like 19" lcd and recessing it in the head liner so I can drop it down for the kids to watch tv, or do something cool with the center console. Lots of choices and plenty of time to figure that project out AFTER the audio portion
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1706
Registered: Sep-09
like the elephant i am waiting to see how this turns out lol.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 214
Registered: Oct-10
Like that boat, you're putting alot of work into this. It is going to be great.
BTW Can elephants swim? bet he's scared shatless.



But I digress. TROY, you still got that L7 for sale ?
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1708
Registered: Sep-09
yeah they can swim.

any updates troy? turn a screw a 1/4 turn?
 

Silver Member
Username: Mystre

Pemberville, Ohio USA

Post Number: 644
Registered: Sep-05
LOL death. Troy, looking good man, can't wait to see it all finished. Keep up the good work. What color LEDs you gonna use?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2634
Registered: Apr-07
lol, sorry I'm slacking. My shoulder is sore from sanding, I spent a ton of time sanding/buffing the 2nd busbar. Anything over 220 grit I wetsand with soap/water and a sanding block.
I sanded the next bar with:
60
120
220
---hand sanded after this point---
320
400
600
1000
2000

I'm really happy with the result over the first bar, so I'll probably resand it starting at 400 grit tomorrow. The 2nd bar is like a mirror, other than a few swirl marks that are so fine no polish I have will remove them. It took me 20- 30 minutes to sand one of the 27 small blocks, so 26 x .5 = almost 13 hours of sanding and buffing left. I'm really happy with how mirror-like they're coming out though. The feeling and look of the polished bars is so much more refined and finished feeling over the coarse raw aluminum, definitely worth the effort imo.

I have a buffing wheel for my bench sander, but I have another one I'm using in a cordless drill and it's working great. I'll try to get pics tomorrow of it, there's just a lot of real work to do first.

Upload
Upload
Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1718
Registered: Sep-09
what, no Tejcurrent logo?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2635
Registered: Apr-07
The L7 I'm not sure about, I was offered a trade for a PS3 that needs a new laser, $50 fix on ebay. I'm not sure how bad I want it yet just need to make up my mind.
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1719
Registered: Sep-09
it really is beautiful work tho troy, get your wife to rub your shoulder for you.
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 24011
Registered: Jun-06
Or rub something else?



Lol as always dude excellent effort. It WILL pay off. That aluminum looks hot as hell.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2637
Registered: Apr-07
lol, no logo, I may do an etched logo in the plexi that will be covering the bars, but I'm not sure. I want it to look clean. I love when people get in my car and don't realize I've done any work to from appearances so I'm really on the fence about some of the visual aspects of the work I'm doing. I think if people are in the vehicle enough to see the busbars though I'll already have talked to them- plus at shows and stuff my hood will probably be open.

In all seriousness I make very little off the sale of stuff, if people buy from me great but I'm not going to overdo it on advertising. I'll put it this way- I would have to sell 600 alternators or at least 100 quad kits (with alternators) a year for me to make enough to pay my bills with as cheap as I'm selling things. I'm not in it for money, sure I make some just enough to make it worth doing, and it's cool to help people put a nice charging system together.

Thanks Paul, let me go work on that
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1720
Registered: Sep-09
i was just thinking as a personal logo like singing your work. i tend to put gcs8 or technolust on things.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 227
Registered: Oct-10
are there any problems or quirks with the l7?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2640
Registered: Apr-07
None that I'm aware of, it was my brothers and has been sitting for around 3 years, he just wanted to use 1500w instead of 750, and he got a Fi BL.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 230
Registered: Oct-10
well holler at me if you want to sell it.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2690
Registered: Apr-07
I'm slowly getting everything together, I was considering what to do with these aluminum pieces for some grounding busbars to the frame or something, They are 3/8" thick x 4" x 9":

Upload
Upload

Then I sat them in the corner and started thinking about using the big sheet 3x8 x 12" x 3.5' I'm thinking about a busbar for the battery bank, a retarded overkill one maybe? I may split this in thirds, or just continue to use the 1"x2" bar I started with inside the truck.

Upload

Updates: I'm waiting on my first of several subs, and probably starting on the battery rack tomorrow. Last night I didn't get home from work till about 10:30 (started at 7am) so I just don't have a lot of time for this build right now. When the equipment comes in I will make a few days.

Depending on how the sub works out here's the equipment list:

2 T3 Audio 6.5 comp sets glassed in front door pods.
1 T3 Audio 6.5 comp set glassed in the back door
1 Soundigital 1000.1 for mids/highs
1 Soundigital 16k for subs (for a few months at least, then I'll probably add a second.)
4 T3 TSNS 18s, 20ft net @ 32Hz, though I may do 4.5ft in anticipation of the 6-8kw per sub I'll use down the road.

12 runs of 1/0 from front to back busbars,
8 runs of 1/0 from busbars to rear battery bank, about 250-300ft
4 240 amp alts, then in a few months 6. Should total about 700 idle/975 peak amps, and 1075/1450 respectively.
8 XS Power D3100s and 2 S3400s I'll probably run things on 4 batts until I get the 2nd amp.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2691
Registered: Apr-07
I also picked up a few dozen 300a fuses.

Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1912
Registered: Sep-09
very nice, i am still excited for this.
 

Silver Member
Username: Cwruck

Post Number: 565
Registered: Feb-10
Wow this is amazing I wish I could hear it when its all done
 

Silver Member
Username: Mystre

Pemberville, Ohio USA

Post Number: 679
Registered: Sep-05
WOW!!!!!!!!! That's all.
Oh wait, awesome job! Can't wait to see it all done.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 368
Registered: Oct-10
I feel like ur a celebrity.........??
 

Gold Member
Username: Jbpitt

Pittsburgh, Pa. Usa

Post Number: 1081
Registered: Jul-09
This is quite amazing! Would be really cool to hear it when its done. Maybe you could to an ecoustics tour? lol
 

Gold Member
Username: Hdubb

Team Revolution

Post Number: 4349
Registered: Nov-04
doing great work troy always enjoyed your builds mane.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16535
Registered: Jun-04
doin a 32 k build right....props
 

Gold Member
Username: Bernymac

Phnom Penh Cambodia

Post Number: 4870
Registered: Sep-04
Very nice build Troy. I had a question. Are you going to make dual alternator brackets for 99 yukons with a 5.7L motor? If so let me know! Thanks.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2694
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks guys! I'm really excited to get this build going, it should be stupid stupid loud, I mean I'd really have to fook something up for it not to be loud with that much power and cone area.

Sean P I will be going to Baltimore MD probably by summer when the build is done, going to try to coordinate with a show there and some different forum members if you or anyone else would be interested. F MD's carry law though, I have my SC permit and I'm not getting jacked!

BernyMac, I'll have a bracket for your truck next week probably. Your factory alt is on the passenger side right?

Oh shiz, something subwoofer related in the sub forum?! First sub came in today, all I can say is wow. I've installed 1st and 2nd gen BTLs, Wardens, Solo-X'18s, and this is the beefiest feeling/looking sub I've ever used.

This is D2, and GP option. The suspension is amazingly soft from what I expected, feels like a broken in Fi Q as a comparison, not like what you'd expect from an SPL-oriented sub. I'm going to test a lot, but if it doesn't like more than 5kw I wont get a 2nd amp... maybe.

There is very little info and few pics circulating, so here are a ton of pics: T3 TSNS 18 D2 GP option, all black.

No joke, it was pretty well packaged compared to other subs I've owned.
Upload
Upload

Rubber boot for motor
Upload
Upload

I got it for such a low price I was aware it could have some scratches on the motor- it did but no big deal as it's just cosmetic and hidden.
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload

I wasn't sure I'd like the carbon fiber look, but it looks great in person. Makes the sub look bigger too, my brother asked if it was another 21.
Upload
Upload
Upload

Upload
Upload


Box build starts tomorrow.
 

Gold Member
Username: Livin_loud

MW2 Addict

Post Number: 3370
Registered: Jan-06
Troy.. that thing is monstrous, lol.

reminds me of a jackhammer from the top view
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1923
Registered: Sep-09
OH i have seen one of theses in person at a nearby shop, think one of the guys there was having one modded by the company owner to have more motor force and take some more power ~16k iirc.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 390
Registered: Oct-10
from the motor size/cone size ratio, it looks like a 10!

BEAST!
I bet that thing weighs like 70 pounds.

Also, where the leads turn and go on top of the spider, it looks like an accident waiting to happen after it starts flexxing and rubbing a bit, like it would rub through. Is that how it came?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2695
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks Eric, I really like the look of it overall, probably my favorite sub I've owned looks-wise, but that doesn't mean a whole lot for performance.

Death- they offer two basic options, daily and spl- I went with daily. I'm not sure if that was a god idea after seeing how soft the suspension is- but they say it'll handle 5kw fine. I'm going to find out soon, and decide if I need to recone when ordering the other 3 subs.

The motor diameter is like 10.5", it's beefy as crap compared to any other sub I've used. The Warden motor was fancier looking, but this just has so much mass it's impressive.

Shipping weight was 102 lbs, packaging felt like about 10-15lbs. It has a 75lb motor, so figure probably 85lbs give or take. I see no problem with the leads, they're sewn not sitting on top of the spider.
I'm going to switch computers to upload some pics in a second.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2696
Registered: Apr-07
I got the wood cut, and sides/port assembled. I just need to add the top, bottom, and cut the sub hole and I'll be done. Not many pics as this is just a test box and maybe only an hours work. I should finish tomorrow and hopefully have it playing.
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 398
Registered: Oct-10
Upload

This is what I'm talking about. It seems like once the spider starts flexing, and the wire starts rubbing, the sharp metal edge will rub through the insulation.
 

Diamond Member
Username: Wingmanalive

Www.stainles... .ecrater.com

Post Number: 24364
Registered: Jun-06
I find it amazing that the clearances on those kerfs didn't break. They look like 1/32"!!!!!



Nice progress though.
 

Gold Member
Username: Bernymac

Phnom Penh Cambodia

Post Number: 4883
Registered: Sep-04
Damn thats a huge subwoofer! Looks nice. Wish there was someone local here that I could listen to one. Oh and yes, my alternator is on the passenger side! Do you only sell the bracket? Bc I kinda don't know how they do the wiring etc. Don't want to make multiple trips to autozone to try to get the correct belt size either. But we'll see once you make one for whose ever vehicle your using as a test for .
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2697
Registered: Apr-07
There really shouldn't be much if any movement at that point, but I'll find out.

They're pretty close to that Paul, thicker was just too hard to bend, I made it thin enough it folded easy. I figured thicker was more likely to split/crack. This is the fastest I've ever assembled a box, period. Maybe just more practice but 1/2 of that hour was making the first cuts, I had to pick the big sheets of 3/4" MDF up and cut with no help so that took a while. Also the staring while drinking redbull was time consuming

I'll have the bracket very soon BernyMac, it's my brothers truck I'm testing on. Everything needed would come with the bracket, from alt plug to bolts/washers. It'll be stupid easy to install though, and I'm trying to make vids of the installs to post on my forum. Sometimes a vid with a few words is worth a whole booklet of pics and directions.
 

Gold Member
Username: Bernymac

Phnom Penh Cambodia

Post Number: 4884
Registered: Sep-04
Sounds good. I'll try to keep updated on it as I would like to buy one for my future yukon build.
 

Gold Member
Username: Jbpitt

Pittsburgh, Pa. Usa

Post Number: 1101
Registered: Jul-09
That sub is bad azz! Im not a cabon fiber fan myself,but from the pic it looks pretty sick. How many of those do you plan on running?
 

Gold Member
Username: Livin_loud

MW2 Addict

Post Number: 3376
Registered: Jan-06

quote:

..and decide if I need to recone when ordering the other 3 subs


 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2698
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks man, 4 subs total. The goal this season is 4-5kw per sub running one SD 16k. Then I would recone and do 2 amps, with 1 amp per pair of 18s doing 8kw per sub.

I soldered into the wiring for the sub, pulling random 8g from my bin-o-wire. I have no clue where I got this, but it's called Amp King. It's the copper on the right, vs the tinned Raptor on the sub.
Upload
Upload


I didn't plan on doing anything fancy with this, but I couldn't help but flush mount the sub.
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload

2x4 bracing, a little wood filler in the port to cover the holes, and the box was ready to put in.
Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload

It got dark so I'll have installed pics tomorrow when it's light out. I was able to carry and lift the box into my truck with one arm, no lie. I asked my neighbor to help me lift the sub in place, god help anyone putting one of these in a wall or something.

I got about 10 minutes of low volume listening with no tuning. At low volumes it didn't get the kick-drum in the Devildriver I was listening to like I expected. On smoother bass lines and rap though it sounded great, not very peaky at all, and had a nice warm fill. I'm excited to see how it sounds with some power behind it.

My neighbor isn't into car audio at all, and said he was amazed by how nice the sub looked. Also that it was the 'heaviest speaker' he had ever seen.
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1926
Registered: Sep-09
man, i all ways love your work. its also funny that you can't even halfass test boxes.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2699
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks. I did halfass a lot, no round over anywhere, just drilled 1/4" holes for the wires and direct connected to the amp. Edges don't line up perfect, I probably have 2-3 hours tops in this box so I consider it a throw-together compared to the multiple days I've spent on every other box I've built in the last few years.

Upload
Upload

I will definitely be ordering more of these subs. I was waiting to hear one to decide if I should go back to BTLs or DC lvl5/6, but this thing sounds very very good on most music. It may be the box but it absolutely kills the lows. The Wardens sounded great, several said better than the BTLs, but this sounds effortless on C&S music, where the Wardens started to drop off.

Not an SQ sub by any means, but for rap it's the best sounding 1500+ watt sub I've ever owned. For rock I'm going to hold my judgement till I have more time to set things up.

I'll let the vids do the talking.

This is the air movement of 2 Warden 21s on similar power.



One TSNS 18. I really think a pair of these on the same amp would've been louder. Now that could be because of my install but it's my opinion so bite your tongues!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaV5JSfcmdA
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2700
Registered: Apr-07
FML vid fail

Let me try this:

 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1928
Registered: Sep-09
fixed
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1929
Registered: Sep-09
hey troy remind me later to hook you up with an account for my server.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2701
Registered: Apr-07
Sure thing, thanks!

I had to ship my 1000.1 out, but at least the 16k is that much closer to being in! In the mean time I couldn't stand being without bass, so I decided to hook the sub up to my 4ch amp, using the rear two channels bridged. This is 150rms @ 4 ohms before rise, which I expect clamped numbers to show below 100 watts actual power.

OMFG this is loud for the power! I'd bet a 140, my dash is flexing a ton, my side mirrors move a lot, my rear view mirror keeps falling off the windshield mount. The wipers are moving, the windshield is even flexing a little, with my cup holder bouncing things around a bit. I did not expect this sort of output for the power!

It's a weaksauce paper trick, but imo it's getting down for the power it's on! I feel that no one can say this sub needs thousands of watts to get loud, as I've installed bigger cone area/higher power setups that weren't this impressive. It's a crappy cell vid but the flex surprises me every time I turn it up.


 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16592
Registered: Jun-04
"Sean P I will be going to Baltimore MD probably by summer when the build is done, going to try to coordinate with a show there and some different forum members if you or anyone else would be interested."

let us know troy youll be in the area me and my bro scott s go to shows at
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16593
Registered: Jun-04
very impressive for the power
 

Silver Member
Username: Chevyfan502

AQ HDC315AQ 2200

Post Number: 220
Registered: May-06
lol...i almost wanna call a bluff on being <150rms...
if not, then damn
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2702
Registered: Apr-07
'll definitely keep in touch when I hit the road, probably early to mid summer. Thanks.

If I didn't run the wires myself I wouldn't believe it was on such little power. This amp:http://www.mobileonesales.com/product_p/ea4000.htm. I've used and installed I don't know how many 1-2 15's on ~1000w that didn't sound like this. I've dropped several ported 15's on 1-2kw in this vehicle that couldn't beat this setup as it is right now. This sub costs between 2-4x what those subs did. With 1/10th of the power I just can't say enough about the output.

Also pretty surprised the amp accepted the 8g speaker wires I'm using.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16601
Registered: Jun-04
oh cool i look forward to meeting you and hearing this beast
 

Silver Member
Username: Chevyfan502

AQ HDC315AQ 2200

Post Number: 222
Registered: May-06
dang, that's friggin amazing!
wasn't trying to call you a liar or anything, I was just thinking you were trying to punk us lol.
Hey I had a couple questions for you I was thinking about the other day, and the only one I can remember right now is;
With I guess "more usual subs" (AQ, DC, IA), how loud does 1 15 or 1 18 on 2k get in a tahoe, and how about the same setup on 4k? and finally third part of question 2 15's on 2k? Obviously multiple 15's or 18's on 4k+ will get loud in a tahoe, I was jw how a single sub setup would do or a multiple sub setup with lower power.
 

Silver Member
Username: Chevyfan502

AQ HDC315AQ 2200

Post Number: 223
Registered: May-06
- on another note, your saying this sub is much louder, then lets say your btl's or warden's on 150rms, does this sub have alot more output on 2-3k then those subs or does it even out more and this sub it just more efficient on low power?
 

Gold Member
Username: Livin_loud

MW2 Addict

Post Number: 3394
Registered: Jan-06
hey Troy, there's a Soundigital 24kw on CACO right now calling your name.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2703
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks man, no I'm not into punking much lol. I really don't use 15's much, but really it's a matter of setup and equipment, there's not definite answer.

I've used 1 Kicker L7 15 on a Hifonics 2006d, sub and port rear firing in 5ft net @ 32Hz. I never metered it, but it didn't move as much air as this 18 on 150 watts. Totally different box setup, but it was 10x the power. To the ear, this setup is louder.

1 18" BTL was louder in a sub up port back box than in a sub back, port back setup. Both were 8ft net @ 36Hz. I used the same hifonics amp, as well as a Memphis 4kw, and a few others for short durations, but no low power testing. Of course with thousands of watts the BTL was louder than this, but at similar power the TSNS is noticeably louder to the ear. It moves more air, and has a deeper tone. Now I'm comparing the 1st Gen BTLs btw. Also I'm using 5ft vs 8 ft.

The Wardens are a tough call because I always used 2, and you're comparing the cone area of 4 15s to 1 18. The gap isn't that far for hair tricks @ 32 Hz though. The amount of air this one sub moves is so surprising when compared to the Wardens for 1/2 the power and around 1/3 the cone area. It could be the box design, or maybe my truck just didn't like 21s, but after using this sub for the short period I have I like it over the Warden.

Eric, the guy says the 24k isn't good for daily use, but thanks for the lookout. I already have 1 16k on the way so it really isn't an option.

I'll try to get some pics of some other stuff I have going on with the Tahoe soon.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2704
Registered: Apr-07
I got another 100ft of 1/0 together, give or take. Should be plenty to add 4 more runs (total) front to back, and connect everything in the rear. I may have to order a bit more once I get the batteries situated. If I could get the spare down (someone stole my jack/tire tools) I would already have the floor cut but hope to get the floor cut out some time this week.
Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2705
Registered: Apr-07
A few more AWFUL quality vids, but this is still 150 rms, I even tried to get a view of the wiring in the 1st vid but it wasn't happening without pulling the car seats.


 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16905
Registered: Jul-05
wow i forget about this thread & didnt even realize u started back up

for only a measly 150wrms thats gotta be a super efficient box too ...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16607
Registered: Jun-04
sweet
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

TC Sounds/DLS

Post Number: 3289
Registered: May-04
Hey Troy,how would I go about ordering or just getting a price quote from T3? Email or call I guess? I was checking out there component set and they look very nice and was thinking later on down the road maybe trying a set out. Have you had any experience with their components?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2706
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks. Rovin I'm wondering if I may make a 4ft net box or drop some wood in this one, I'm a bit worried it won't handle the power I want it to with the excursion I'm seeing currently, but I'm going to test it!

Twiztid I'm going to buy 3 sets of 6.5 comps to try out. I contacted them through email and phone pretty well. If you go to the t3 forum on smd the guys seem to respond pretty quick to questions.
There isn't much info on any t3 gear on forums, but the little I do see appears nice. I figure ill probably do a 4ch sd amp with t3 speakers and subs. Have the first setup I've ever owned with matching equipment lol.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2722
Registered: Apr-07
Upload
Upload

What I've been working on a little at a time. Gloss white 240s, 150-180 idle and 240 peak.
I'm not sure if I should leave the pulley natural aluminum, or black. Any thoughts?
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

TC Sounds/DLS

Post Number: 3305
Registered: May-04
I think a black pulley with that white alt would look sick! Go for the gloss black!
 

Silver Member
Username: Mystre

Pemberville, Ohio USA

Post Number: 697
Registered: Sep-05
^x2
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 439
Registered: Oct-10
especially with the black on it already, black belt, probably black 5.3 liter chevy motor plastic cover.....
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2723
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks for the input!
I'll get some pulleys done black early this week. I'm hoping the powder coating works well - the next batch will be anodized but I have so many in stock right now I don't want to run more and have to worry about storing them .

It'll be black pulley, white front, black center, white rear case, with black plastic cover. The bracket will be gloss black.. Makinblack, the belt is green which doesn't match anything, but works well.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2729
Registered: Apr-07
I got word I may have that 16k by next week, even 4 ohm testing with that amp should get me some nice results. Either way I'm excited. Hopefully by summer I'll have the build finished, but it will definitely take a while with everything I want to do
Anyway, I should have at least 4kw on the sub soon.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16783
Registered: Jun-04
i hope and pray you dont have any issues with that soundigital amp when you go full tilt but if you do I warned you
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2730
Registered: Apr-07
Thanks for the warning. 4 ohms at first should be fine, and I'm going to have a solid charging system before bumping it to 1 ohm. The people I see having problems with the new amps compete or use them below 1 ohm, with moderate electrical upgrades. I'm not going to push it full tilt often if at all, and I should be able to keep above 13v at all times. If it pops the repair should be free, and I'll get some good testing to give others

Do you know anyone personally that blew a SD amp, how old the amp was, and why it went up?

I'm having some pulleys powder coated black, though the next ones I may have things setup to anodize myself. Lots of ideas coming through, maybe I'll get things set up this summer for some of them
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2731
Registered: Apr-07
Jesus, FedEx missed me 2 days in a row with that amp. They require a direct signature, though I've never had an issue with leaving a signed note. Dude actually wrote on his 'missed delivery' slip that he needed a direct signature. Then he proceeded to leave 2 other packages on my fkin porch.

Better than having it stolen- but I was around till 4/4:30pm and got back at 5:30. FedEx wont even let me pick the package until tomorrow afternoon after 1 pm, and their hub is about 20 miles away. Anyway, I should have the amp here tomorrow, though if it had come in today I would have it installed tomorrow. Looks like I'll test things out this upcoming week.

I dropped my spare tire and designed 2 separate battery racks. One holds 3 batts, the other 5, so I can use one or both for a total of 8 D3100s in the spare location. I could probably have fit 10 but my dual exhaust is routed in the way, and I don't need 10 batteries so I have no plans of relocating. I hope to get the 3 battery rack welded this week, though I'm not sure if I'll have any time. Also I have to get my quad kit back on before doing much with the amp.
 

Gold Member
Username: Gcs8

Atlanta, Ga

Post Number: 1964
Registered: Sep-09
those-b@stards.
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 478
Registered: Oct-10
Do you have stock suspension? Do you have any plans for overload springs or air shocks? You're looking at about half a ton in the back after everything, and saggin vehicles just look so half-azz and trashy.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2732
Registered: Apr-07
My tahoe has 4WD and tow package (pre Z71), so it sits up pretty well in back. When I had the 4 BTL 18s in it sat perfectly level, so this should only be a little heavier.

Probably by summer I plan on doing a 3 inch lift and bigger all terrains. I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking 22" black rims with machined accents/lip and 35" Nitto tires. It'll sit up pretty high and level when I'm done, so it wont be sagging much or long.
 

Silver Member
Username: Chevyfan502

AQ HDC315AQ 2200

Post Number: 227
Registered: May-06
35's on black 22's.....u bastardd....system and rim/tire combo I would KILL to have lol...
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2733
Registered: Apr-07
lol, I really don't care about rims that much, but I like larger tires and lifted trucks. I was even considering getting some of the newer factory rims and having them powder coated flat black: this style:
http://www.finishlinewheels.com/CHEVY/TAHOE/2002/A-05117U10/

These aren't my top pick, but something along these lines maybe:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/22-WHEELS-RIM-ESCALADE-SILVERADO-TAHOE-YUKON-AVAL ANCHE-/290543079554?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43a5b79082#ht _2638wt_1004

Or these
http://www.wheelsnext.com/wheels-rims/22_inch-LEXANI-LX_10-Machined%20w%7C%20Bla ck.html
 

Silver Member
Username: Makinblak

Monroe/Monticello, La/Ar

Post Number: 493
Registered: Oct-10
Those helos are epicness. The lexanis belong on a caprice or a charger. the oems belong on oems
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2734
Registered: Apr-07
Checked the link and those weren't the Lexani rims I meant. Either way I really don't mind the oem chevy wheels, just powder coated flat black. The helos are relatively cheap, and look pretty good. I'm in no rush, I probably have 6 months left on the tires I have now and I plan on wearing them out before buying new tires and rims.
 

Silver Member
Username: Chevyfan502

AQ HDC315AQ 2200

Post Number: 228
Registered: May-06
Rockstar rims are bad a** if you want tough looking....some, not many, stockers look good painted black, but not those ones lol....c'mon man I thought you had swag for a minute
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16939
Registered: Jul-05
cool going so far but i dont like all black rims at all - gotta have a little bling\polished lip on it or some silver wheel nuts & silver center cap ...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Insearchofbass

Post Number: 16876
Registered: Jun-04
im for whatever you are but i like the polished look myself also
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2735
Registered: Apr-07
lol I have no swag.

I haven't touched the exterior of my truck yet, just bigger tires on factory rims. I really don't care about the appearance that much- which gets me out of tickets/speed traps, stereo types, and theft. No one jacks a raggedy-ast truck that looks like an old geezer drives it or something.

Anyway- pics!

Upload
Upload

Upload
Upload
Upload

Should be about as much power as 2 of my AB1000.1s after rise and voltage drop. It's the same size as an ab500.1 give or take too.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

1 15 = 153 DBs ...Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 16941
Registered: Jul-05
sweet !

looking forward from a review concerning its musical quality compared to others u have owned


earlier this yr got to see\hear a 8k in action compared to a 7k cactus - direct swap i couldnt hear a difference - enclosure was high tuned like in the 40s so thats based on what i heard with that particular set ....
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2736
Registered: Apr-07
I'm looking forward to it to. It's going to be tough to make a comparison until I get more subs, just because I'll be using such different equipment. Ratings wise though this one amp is like all 4 Memphis 4kws. I guess it'll be a great comparison to 4 btl 18s on 4 4kws.
Until I get on the meter I can't compare other than to the ear, which there may be a db or 2 difference I may not pick up on.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Post Number: 3319
Registered: May-04
Hey Troy did you get your T3 components yet? Or are you still going with the T3s? Im thinking about trying a set but I really dont know much about them since no one ever talks about T3 components. And T3 doesnt list many specs on their site about them. All I know is I got a price quote from Edward for $153 shipped,which isnt a bad price at all if they're decent components. Im running some DLS MS6A comps right now and if I switch to the T3s I dont want to feel like I downgraded. I just want something different and the T3s caught my eye.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2737
Registered: Apr-07
No components yet. I'm sort of debating on what I'm going to do - the comps look nice enough. Also I have a ton of time/effort/money to put into other things in the vehicle.

I read a review I believe ed posted saying they sounded good for the price, but they're bright. I don't like bright, I have my 10 and 15khz bands eqed - 4 right now.
 

Gold Member
Username: Joebruce

Post Number: 3321
Registered: May-04
I think Im gonna for for it and just reveiw them my self. Since thats the only way Ill be able to tell if I like them or not. Hell for the price you cant really complain. Only thing I dont care for is the grills. Im afraid me or a passenger will end up kicking a hole in one of the mids since the grills dont really cover up the mid lol. I may have to buy some generic grills off of partsexpress or somewhere. If they are "bright" then that sounds perfect for me,as I tend to like a bright sounding component. As soon as I get the extra money,I will be ordering a set. If I dont like them I can always sell them.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tejcurrent

Post Number: 2739
Registered: Apr-07
Go for it, I'd like to see a review. From the sound of it though they may be too bright for me.
« Previous Thread Next Thread »



Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us