Here is another small build. Except this time its for a local custom for his PG Cyclone for a HT set-up I cannot wait to here this thing. I have only heard positive things about the cyclone and hear that is dominates the lower teens (10-13hz) will ease without breaking a sweat. But also kill the highs as well. For those who don't know much about the cyclone, take a look here.
The cyclone has no cone... and uses the rotational force of the fan-like magnet to drive the radiator. It also has no voice coils, spiders or surrounds and is able to convert very low frequencies into some an acoustical output. It's quite scientific and it goes into details.
Anyway, Custom wanted it to be "murdered out" with glassy black spray paint. I think he should be pleased Needs another coat and then the clear coat. Sorry for the bad pic of the finish in the garage, there was horrible lighting.
Yes, def. some vids I have a Makita table say but I took off the fence and made my own table that goes around the saw so I could slide through bigger sheets. I am going to be making my own fence this summer for my table saw with some ball bearings and some rods. I will be have a how to/build log for that for those DIY'ers out there.
For this box, I just used clamps and glue because It was such a small box and only 300w was going to be going in it. I usually (as you see in my other builds) use screws every 4-5 inches or so.
And yes, all my cut's are pretty much right on the money. I will post up some pictures in a couple minutes of my table saw. I will be building a bigger and better one this summer hopefully.
Here are some pics. I don't have any pictures unfortunately of the table saw actually up in the table itself. But in the last picture you see the Makita table saw. When looking at it now, we just cut a square cut-out (the size of the Makita saw outer fence) around the middle of the table. I then used a 4 2x4's and mounted them underneath the table saw to hold it up. This way, its very easy to just take out if need be. I will try to get some more pictures for you when I get back to the shop. This is not my shop in the pictures.
thanks. i cant wait to see it. ive been trying to convince my father to buy a new bigger table saw but hes not budging haha. he might be up for making a bigger table tho. would need to make a fence for sure though or it wont really be much better than a circular saw imo.
if i had the clamps i would never use screws fyi. pilots and countersinking every hole is a PITA. its the glue that holds it together anyways the screws just apply pressure to the glue which for gorilla glue (which i exclusively use) is nice since it helps it expand more and infiltrate the wood pores.
i mean i can get my cuts pretty close but thats just amazing ant not a bit of burn from the blade.
No problem and to be honest it does not take any more time to use screws for me since I have 3 drills set-up at all time (one for pre-drill, countersink, then Phillips head) so it does not take any more time then to clamp it and let it sit. Gorilla glue is not my choice for glue for MDF but that's just my honest opinion. I can break the bond if I tried with gorilla glue but cannot break the bond without snapping the board when using titebond.
And for a temporary fence, you can just make lines and measurments outwards from the saw blade it's self and label the #'s on the edge of the table. The use a straight piece of ply of some sorts and use that as a fence for the wood to slide against.
I made a box for it for HT and had it inverted also. I made a bad move in surrounding it with a plexi framed dust cover. The mag simply blew it apart lol. The box was a brick sh1thouse but the plexi, not so much.
Sold the mag and onto my Q. Yall remember that build.
Paul if you don't mind me asking, how much would a build like that go with all materials and lights? And would you be willing to build a box like that for someone? Would be for a car tho. You can PM me since I don't wanna hijack the thread.
so you used spray paint for that finish? it came out nicely.
I personally would have ended up using a shellac and hand rubbing it out to get a piano finish (traditional piano finish) but that would have been a LOT more time and money. It came out nicely considering the technique. With a solid wood, you can do nice routed edges like that and get great results. I'm actually doing the same at present using teak to make a center channel speaker stand for my home theater, but that is getting varnished, not stained or shellac.
There are also some new brush-on paints that give a "wet paint" black piano finish, too. You might want to take a look at those. They're pretty cheap, too. I have a can of it around here somewhere. It's an acrylic finish.
I have tried into the piano finish before Glasswolf. Is there someway I can contact you (possibly through email?) to get some input on the finishes you listed?
pretty much any paint shop should have the acrylic wet-look piano finish. just ask for it like that.
The place I got mine was back in Michigan though, and I'm no longer there anymore. I moved last summer, so I don't have all the sources for those materials locally yet.
Very nice box. What are you using for primer? latex or oil? HD now sells a piano finnish paint. I have yet to try it out. Also, there is an additive you can add to paint to prolong the dry time, thus giving it more time to flow out and make it smooth. It is used to lubricate paint for latex spray guns. It may be compatible with oil based as well. Or just add paint thinner or acatone to help it flow better.
Soon Enough Odd. I am just waiting on him at the moment. I will have to try some piano finish in the future The thing about that is that I do not have a spray gun/compressor. Not sure on how the piano finish would look without one. That's what experiments are for!
you don't need a spray gun. you can thin the paint a little and apply it with a brush. Then you just need to spend a little time on finishing the paint surface once it's dried and cured. some ultra-fine grain sand paper (800-2000 grit wet/dry) will give you a smooth surface. Then you can just polish it out and bang, shiny mirror like surface.
The process isn't too different from lapping a computer processor.
