Building my first car audio system and jumping in boots and all. I want a good SQL type system... basically 50/50 SPL/SQL.
Here's the components I've bought so far:
-Earthquake 1000W/2 Amp: Number of channels: 2 Max Power output: 1000 Watts RMS Power 4-Ohm Bridged: 1 x 400 RMS Power 2-Ohm Stereo: 2 x 300 RMS Power 4-ohm stereo: 2 x 200 Damping Factor: >800 Cross over slopes: 24dB/OCT THD: >0.005 SNR: 90dB Class: A/B Speaker Connection: 8 Gauge Power Connection: 4 Gauge Input Type: High Level and Low Level RCA
-Kenwood KAC-7204 Amp 2-channel car amplifier 170 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms) 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode) CEA-2006 compliant high-pass (12 dB per octave) and low-pass (24 dB per octave) filters variable from 50 to 200 Hz variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz) cooling fan MOSFET power supply speaker-level inputs with signal sensing turn-on preamp-level inputs and outputs fuse rating: 40A x 1
-Kenwood KEC-202 2-Way or 3-Way Electronic Crossover 1/2 DIN-Size Super-Slim Chassis 2-Channel (Stereo) RCA Input 2-Way or 3-Way Configuration Fader Control for Mid and High Frequencies High-Frequency Output: 3kHz - 10kHz (High-Pass) Low Frequency Output: 30Hz - 800Hz (Low-Pass) Low-Pass RCA Output Midrange Output: 30Hz - 800Hz (Low-Cut), 3 kHz - 10kHz or Through (High-Cut) Non-Fading Output for Subwoofer Stereo/Mono Switch for Low Out Variable Level Controls Dimension: 7"(W) x 1"(H) x 5-7/8"(D) Weight : 1.8 lb
-Kenwood KDC-MP3029 Header Unit 14 Segment FL Display (8 Digits, Scroll on/off possible) Rotary Encoder & Jog Control Knob for Easy Operation Remote Sensor Tel Mute Maximum Output Power : 45W x 4 (MOSFET Power IC) 1 Preout System Q WMA & MP3 Files Playback with ID-3 Tag Display
I've had that HU for a while and am happy enough with it so instead of replacing it I bought the crossover unit as the HU only has 1 preout and the features on the crossover sounded potentially useful.
So what does everyone think of that setup so far?
All I need now is a recommendation on a subwoofer and a set of 6.5" components or a good quality 6.5 coaxial speaker.
I'm in NZ and with shipping costs to import anything from overseas being so high I'm basically limited to what I can buy locally. Pioneer/Alpine/Sony/Kenwood/Fusion .. a few bits of Cadence, Rockford, MA Audio, Boschmann and lots of cheaper "no name" imported Chinese products are available here generally.
I want to buy a single subwoofer with 4 ohm coil or 2 ohm dual coil is what I think I'll need (12" or 15") probably in the 400-500 RMS range to go on one amp (likely the Kenwood amp bridged @ 4 ohm with 500 RMS).
The other amp I want to use for some 6.5" comps/coaxials. I'd like the comps/coaxials to do 80-125 RMS if possible as the Earthquake 2 channel amp should hopefully be able to supply the wattage easily with the gain down on it.
I'm going for just a front stage+subwoofer system at this point but I do have some cheap Rampage 6x9 speakers that I can just run off the header for rear fill... that's not a priority at all though as I'd like to get the front stage and subs running sufficiently loud and clean first.
So what do you all think... decent components so far? Am I on the right track?
What size RMS comps/coaxials would best match up with a 400 RMS sub? It's all going in a Mitsubishi Lancer 4 door sedan if that helps any. It has the option for a good sized sub in the boot as well as 4" speaker slots in the dash and 6.5" slots in the front doors. I'm going with the door mountings to get the better selection and wattage from 6.5" speakers compared to 4" which I don't see much of around.
Is there a huge difference in sound quality when you use say an average quality coaxial to an average quality comp set? I haven't made a decision in that area yet. I've read that some people bi amp their tweeters/mids in some comp sets and I'll only have 2 amp channels up front so will that result in lesser quality audio? Would I have been better off with a smaller 4 channel amp in front and bi-amping the mids and tweeters... each with their own channel? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
"I want to buy a single subwoofer with 4 ohm coil or 2 ohm dual coil is what I think I'll need (12" or 15") probably in the 400-500 RMS range to go on one amp (likely the Kenwood amp bridged @ 4 ohm with 500 RMS)."
Alpine Type R seems to fit your needs, on eBay you can get a 12inch for 120.00 a piece.
Being pretty new at this I believe I'd need the Alpine Type R SWR-1222D model with dual 2 ohm voice coils to make best use of the 500 RMS watts @ 4 ohms on the Kenwood amp. Is that correct?
Well since you asked i will tell you what i think of that setup... not very good at all.
The only good thing kenwood makes is the HU, their amps are especially crap. Earthquakes almost as bad.
Out of the brands you listed, alpine and rockford are what you should be looking at. If you go alpine you can build an entire good system out of just that brand. (type R or X speakers and subs and any of their amplifiers)
I always thought kenwood is good, ecspecially the excelon line. I have a 1600 mono and 1200 multi channel and I have never had a problem with any of my equipment. This doesn't mean others have not though. I would look into the Alpine Type X line. They are amazing and have great feedback. Another nice thing about the X line is that it doesn't take a lot to power em. Sonic Electronics sell them for a really nice price.
-Fusion RE-CM650 6.5" Split component Speakers with Silk dome tweeter Compliance (Cms) 732 Cone Area (Sd) 11.3 D.C. Coil Resistance (Re) 3.6 Electrical Q (Qes) 0.61 Force Factor (Bl) 4.897 Free Air Resonance (Fs) 53 Frequency Response 55Hz-22kHz Impedance (Nominal) 4 Magnet Structure (Oz) MaxRMS Power (Watts) 260 RMS Power (Watts) 85 Mechanical Excursion (mm) 10 Mechanical Q (Qms) 3.47 Mounting Depth 65mm (2 9/16")
-Pioneer 12" Subwoofer TS-W308D2 Watts MAX. Music Power 1400 Watts Watts Nominal Power Handling 400 Watts Frequency Response 20 ~ 180Hz Sensitivity D2 (90dB) Ohm Rating D2: (1 or 4 ohm) Magnet Construction Double Mass High-Power (83oz) Recommended Enclosure 0.85 ~ 1.75 Cubic Feet Dimensions 327 mm x 172 mm Mounting Depth 153 mm
-Platinum AGU Fuse Distribution Block, Performance Teknique Model FDB-8728 3 X 4 Gauge In and 3 X 8 Gauge Out
-ANL Fuse holder and 100A Fuse - 4GA Power Cable(5M) - 4GA Ground Power Cable(1M) - Gold Plated Double Shielded Audio RCA Cable(5M) - 14GA Speaker Cable(10M) - Remote Wire(5M)
-Absolute 12 Foot RCA Cable Model - ABHP12 Double shielded Twisted Pair RCA with Remote Wire Metal Split Gold Plated Metal Head
-GOLD-PLATED 1M RCA CABLE
*(Still need to buy a couple metres of 8 Gauge Power wire to go from the distribution block to each of the amps and to use to ground each amp as well.)
The reason I've bought these specific components is that I'm on a tight budget (building this all for a familiy member) and there is very limited product available here so I've had to go with a "decent bang for limited bucks" approach.
Ebay and US Suppliers are pretty much out of the question for heavier items like subs/amps as the shipping/duty pretty much kills any potential savings. I bought the 2 amps used and everything else is new so time will tell whether it was all a mistake once I get the system up and running.
One of the last things I'm getting is some inexpensive (hopefully) sound deadener for the front doors so the components will sound their best. Looking at something called "Bostik Panelbeaters Sound Deadening Repair Sheet" which is available here in NZ. The cost of most of the deadening products are as much as many subs/amps so I'm just looking at doing a little sound deadening initially and see how it goes... I can always add a little if the rattles and squeaks are too much.
I realize this sytem isn't anywhere near up to competiton levels or anything but hopefully I can get it sounding decent. Currently the car just has the Kenwood header and some low cost 6"x9" rear fill speakers and some factory 5 watt 4" front speakers that are crackly and crap sounding. Anything will be an improvement.
