If you have a sub that gives you a range of box sizes in the specs, what are the advantages / disadvantages of using a larger or smaller box?
For example, a DD 3515 can be used in a 3.0-4.5 cu.ft. box according to the specs. I am going to install 2 3515's, and the largest box I can fit would be 3.5 cu.ft. per sub. So what I need to know is what size between 3.0-3.5 cu.ft. per sub should I build my box? It will be ported at 40hz (the DD spec), and the goal is SQL.
4.bass that shakes and vibrates your car harder(it "feels" better and more intence)
5.the box volume recommended by the manufacturer's is always at least 2 times to small. So you should AT LEAST double the manufacturers recommended box size. Make the box at least twice the size that they say. They recommend smaller boxes because it sells more speakers and because THEY already decided and THEY dont think you need bass below 40 hertz!(talk about mood killers) All those technical woofer parameters like Vas and Qts is a pathetic way to measure the force generation potential of a woofer, furthermore they totally ignore the acoustic AIR FORCE LOAD. This is the only 1 real measurement of importance anyway! Using those technical numbers without more data like trying to determine how fast a car or boat is by asking only 1 question; "how much horsepower does the motor have?" Anyone with a little common sense can tell you that you cant determine the top speed of a car or boat from only knowing just the horsepower. You also need more relevant data, like the wieght, the car or boat size, the shape, the wheels, the gear ratios, the torque, is the road flat or a mountain, ect.
6.A 10 inch woofer in a 2 cubic foot box will put out deeper bass than an 18 inch woofer in a 2 cubic foot box. This is because the 18 inch woofer is suffocating and choking in a box that is to small.
7. If you can do it invert your woofers. This means put them in the box "upside down" so the front of the cone fires into the box and the rear magnet sticks out of the box. This will make the inside of the box a little bigger, and then your woofer will be a little more relaxed and this means deeper bass and sometimes 1 to 4 decibels louder.
8.If your not interested in a killing people decibel level, and are more interested in awesome sound quality you can put the woofers in different size boxes. So for example say you have 4 cubic feet in total and 2 woofers, instead of putting each in a 2 cubic foot box, make one side 1 cubic foot and the other in a 3 cubic foot box, this will make the 1st woofer will better play the high pitched bass from 60 to 200 hertz, the other will better play the superdeep 20 to 50 hertz bass. This will happen automatically without any additional equalizers, crossovers or filters from your amplifiers. Your total db level will go down, but your sound quality will go way up. Even better would be to port tune the 2nd larger box from 18 to 26 hertz for that vibration bass. In general you can make 1 side from 2 times bigger or 3 times bigger than the other. So for example say you have X cubic feet in total, then the small side is X divided by 4 = (X/4) cubic feet, then the rest of the box is for the other woofer.
I would say some of what the original writer said is wrong...I dont believe for instance that factory recommended box sizes are undersized. Real life experience has shown me that..As a matter of fact sometimes the larger recommended box sizes are too big. From my experience the smaller box sizes are more controlled and have a nicer tonal quality to them but if to small dont hit the really low end well at all. The idea of different boxes sizes for each woofer sounds good to a point but only if set up right.
i am referring to the fact that the maxumum sealed allotment for a 12" Mag is 1.4 cubes sealed. i wouldn't put a 12" Mag in a 2.8 cubes sealed box and throw recommended RMS wattage at it.
Ok, Lilrob you impressed me with your writing skills. It looks more organized than before (numbered bullets...), and the spelling is a lot better, but for crying out loud, PLEASE STOP GIVING ADVICE.
Its not worth listing all the bad advice in your post. I just think that perhaps you may have taken in a lil too much during your last hit, so maybe you might be suffering from temporary lapse of reason, lol..
The larger the enclosure, the lower the air pressure inside the box. The lower the air pressure, the larger the wavelengths that may be created using a piston type driver. This means that you will get lower bass, and even louder output, but only up to a certain point, then it will work the other way.
The smaller the box, the higer the air pressure inside the box. The higher air pressure, the more controlled your driver will behave. It basicly helps improve driver compliance. It maintains sound quality. Smaller also allows the driver to be pushed to its full RMS where a larger box will bottom out a lot sooner and start to distort.
This is a comparison between larger and smaller using the same type of enclosure. As in using a large sealed box verses a small sealed box, or the same goes for a ported box as well.
too overly large boxes will cause sub overexertion & almost sure sub damage/bottoming out without u giving it near full power
thing is manufacturers know MOST ppl dont want 2 lose trunk space so they give u a rec & max (they thinking along the lines of utilising a fair amt of space) - i mostly go by rec & if space available then i go by max rec or in between....just my opinion
well, in my case i feel like my box is Huge, 5 cubic seems like a lot for 2 10'' arsenals. The plans that are drawn up are these but it seems a little large. would this be good for everyday listening, wide range from Hard rock to rap. I really like crisp sound more than SQL?
