Amp skipping

 

Bronze Member
Username: Djcool563

Sullivan, Ohio

Post Number: 11
Registered: Apr-06
Hey guys i have a cross fire amp going to 2 subs. I wanted a way to switch the amp on from the drivers seat so i wired a switch by running a wire from the battery to the switch to the remote terminal on the amp. When the car is not moving the amp works fine. When the car is moving it will fade in an out like it will hit a few notes of the base then fade out then do a few more a few seconds later. I dont know if it has to do with the switch or what. I checked all connections and they are fine on the amp. Anyone have any ideas?
DJ
 

Silver Member
Username: Van_man

Boston, MA

Post Number: 435
Registered: Mar-06
is it a lighted switch?
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 8019
Registered: Jul-05
y didnt u put the switch on the REMOTE wire instead ? .......
 

Gold Member
Username: Theelfkeeper

Stockbridge, GA USA

Post Number: 2292
Registered: Feb-05
you should put the switch on the REM lead, not the positive lead. you can prob end up frying the REM output if you keep the REM lead hot while killing the positive.

the amp is "fadeing" in and out because its draining all avaliable power from the capacitors inside the amp, then its prob pulling some power from the REM wire till it starts back up, then fades out and repeats.

putting the switch on the REM wire turns the amp off immediatly and its fully off till you turn the switch again. thats the easiest and safest way to add a on/off switch for an amp.
 

Gold Member
Username: Fandim

Reno, Nevada United State...

Post Number: 1094
Registered: Jun-05
That's what he did. He said he wired a positive 12v wire to a switch, and ran the switch to the Remote input on his amp. This is a perfectly acceptable solution. Many people have to do this if they're running a lot of amplifiers, or running accessories that they want to all turn on at the same time as well as the amplifier, because if he did this with the wire from his remote out on the deeck, he risks blowing it, as it only puts out a very small amount of power.

I think you misread what he said, and think that he has his 12v power input on the amp switched, but what he said was he just took a 12v source wire and made IT switched to his remote input, not the wire running to his 12v+ on the amp. ;)

Seth
 

Silver Member
Username: Van_man

Boston, MA

Post Number: 444
Registered: Mar-06
check to see what the voltage is on the "switched wire feed after the switch" at the amp. I had problems with a switch before. It was using voltage to light the switch robbing juice from the amps REM. I solved this by using a relay and basic toggle switches. Thats why I asked if it was lighted. Aslo check the switch (ohms, Continuity) with a meter. It could be bad.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Djcool563

Sullivan, Ohio

Post Number: 12
Registered: Apr-06
the switch is lighted. I do have the switch going to the REM. Sorry for the confusion on that i just ran a wire from the battery to the switch to the REM. I will get another switch and try it out thanks guys.
DJ
 

Gold Member
Username: Illuminator

USA

Post Number: 3062
Registered: Apr-05
You probably don't want that much power going to the remote input in the first place. Use the remote wire coming off the headunit, if it's already powering three or four other amps, get a relay to boost the remote wire's power for the extra amp.

How is the amp grounded and how long is the ground (-) cable? What gauge is the power wire(+)?
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