|
Bronze Member Username: ReseaudioPost Number: 36 Registered: Apr-04 | I have been interested in trying to build my own box or boxes for my 15s and i need to know of a good website that will be easy to understand. Thanks |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2564 Registered: Dec-03 | jlaudio.com the12volt.com bcae1.com installdr.com use 3/4" MDF measure twice, cut once. use 1" cross-braces internally use coarse thread drywall screws every 2" or so along the box, and if you desire, liquid nails as a bead along the contacting surfaces. use clear silicone caulk to bead a seal along the inside of all joints, and around ports. also seal around speaker terminals you place after covering the box. if you inset the side panels of the box by about an inch, that lip, after you carpet the box, makes a great set of handles to move the box when needed. there's some help |
|
Bronze Member Username: Pat_lTucson, AZ USA Post Number: 34 Registered: Apr-04 | Glasswolf is exactly right. For 15's 3/4 MDF is very good. Best wood to work with. Make sure you make plans and get good measurements. Dont be afraid to cut it big- because you can alway cut more off but you cant add. Drywall screw will work but make sure you pre-drill. Because MDF is so compact anything going into it (especally the ends) will crack the wood. Liquid Nails is by far the best thing to use. Do a dry assembly with just putting the pieces where they need to go. Than use the liquid nails to glue it. You should screw down everything last. Silicone caulk is a sealent. It doesnt work well for bonding. So dont use it for attaching things, just seal. |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2573 Registered: Dec-03 | the silicone is strictly to make the box air tight at seams. It isn't meant as an adhesive. yeah pre-drill and countersink the screws. screw them in carefully so as not to damage the MDF. |
|
Anonymous | im guessing a cross-brace is for support? how exctly would that go? and should that be 1" mdf?...cuz thats not very common |
|
Silver Member Username: Bdb_86Bemidji, MN Usa Post Number: 128 Registered: Dec-03 | this is a good one it well tell you all you need to know (i think) http://www.diymobilesound.com/box1.htm |
|
Bronze Member Username: Pat_lTucson, AZ USA Post Number: 39 Registered: Apr-04 | Cross- brace is to hold it together even more. 15's are big! I would use 2X4 to do it. 1" would work but 2X4 is easyer to cut. |
|
Silver Member Username: Bdb_86Bemidji, MN Usa Post Number: 129 Registered: Dec-03 | this is what i was trying to show you they changed something so the address is different http://www.diymobilemedia.com/html/tutorials/sub_box.html |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2593 Registered: Dec-03 | cross bracing is for support, yes. mainly to reduce resonance or flex in teh box. large unbraced surfaces will flex under the concussive forces generated by the speakers. you want to reduce that as much as possible for proper accuracy. Otherwise every time the box flexes, the volume changes, teh port tuning alters, and you get coloration and harmonics. |
|
Bronze Member Username: ReseaudioPost Number: 38 Registered: Apr-04 | If i used sealed boxes for my SE 15s would it be any better or worse than having them ported to just under 30 Hz like i do now? |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2655 Registered: Dec-03 | sealed would still hit lower, and it'd be more accurate with no coloration or harmonics due to ports. your trade off is a lower transient response due to the increased damping of the sealed box, and a lowering of efficiency by -3dB |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2656 Registered: Dec-03 | oh, and a sealed box has a much flatter response. good for accuracy, but not as good if all you want is "more bass" |
|
Bronze Member Username: ReseaudioPost Number: 39 Registered: Apr-04 | if i were to build the box so that is was angled and the sub and port was angled up at the hatch would that make any difference? |
|
Anonomyous Unregistered guest | I have a 2003 chevy regular cab and I want to put 2 12" kicker S7 solo-barics in. Does anyone have plans for a custom box or boxes? |
|
Bronze Member Username: ReseaudioPost Number: 40 Registered: Apr-04 | how do i know what to make each dimension for my subs? I have been on the12volt.com and it tells me to enter the l/w/h and my subs are 4 cu ft ported at 30 Hz and if i want to port them to 35 hz how do i know what to enter for my dimensions? |
|
Anonymous | so glass, would it be enough to just have the divider between the subs as the cross brace? maybe two 1/2" MDF or two 3/4" MDF glue/nailed together for the cross-brace. or would there need to be more, say like on the 4 outside corners. |
|
Anonymous | glass wolf would this work? |
|
Bronze Member Username: Pat_lTucson, AZ USA Post Number: 59 Registered: Apr-04 | Yeah, a divider would work just as good. If you are using one AMP for 2 15's than make sure there is a big hole in the divider so that the two subs share air space. If you have each sub with one AMP per than make sure that each sub will have its own closed off air space. |
|
robert J Unregistered guest | why do they need to share air space |
|
New member Username: ShortysbluePost Number: 3 Registered: May-04 | OK i Have 2 HX2 and i am building a custom box for my s-10 ex cab have plans and wood i know what i am doing its just i dont know if i should go with ported box or sealed, the box is my whole back but my subs have there own space (like i am just droping in a box) doing this so i wont have lots of space for them cause i know hx2 hitt better with ssmall space, right now i have them in a ported box, they sound load and clean, i am wannting bass, thats all from my subs but what box should i go with the sealed or the open ported box |
|
New member Username: RedPhoenix, Az Us Post Number: 1 Registered: May-04 | does anyone know the specs that work best on how to build a box for a 15 volfenhag sub |