How to build a subwoofer enclosure

 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 131
Registered: Jan-06
Sup fellas, I am about to get 3 10's via fedex today (hopefully not thrashed and bashed like Trevor's Mag). I was a bit short on funds to order a box online for them, plus it just wasn't quite right. So now I am about to build a box, and I need some help and direction.

I've already scouted out all the tools I am going to need, and I've got that covered. I also have some decent looking plans drawn up (http://www.accelerator-pedal.com/ported-box.asp?Ew=40&Eh=14&Dia=4&Xmax=11.9&Vd=. 06&NumW=3&Vb=3&Fb=35&Qts=.432&Vas=2.3&Fs=23.1&CE=0).

But what is the best way to wire these 3 10's, should I combine the wires from the three inside of the box so I only have one terminal to attach the amp to?, or should I do 3 terminals on the back?

Also, this is what's stumping me the most, what is a good way to do the terminals? I remember seeing Marshall's box how to and he used some thick screws with washers and a bolt to attack the wire, this looks like the easiest, but will those screws carry a current through them well? or am I going to create a power bottleneck because the screws dont conduct like the copper speaker wire (which I am using OMC, Original Monster Cable, which is about 10 or 12 gauge.)

Also, if any experienced box builders could view my plans and let me know if I should change anything around, that'd be great.
 

Silver Member
Username: Terry6405

Sullivan, IN US

Post Number: 454
Registered: Sep-05
the wireing depends on your amp, what amp do you have?
go here for the options
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp



hah i do my terminals like that. just go to the hardware store and find 2 bolts large enough to hold the ring terminals securely and you will need a locknut and a regular nut and your all set! it works fine, i just had it set up like that, actually ill bet its a better cunent that some cheaper terminals because it is thicker metal. if not then i dont think it will matter anyway, marshal knows whats up

that box looks fine, just be sure you can actually get it in you vehicle, not just that you have enoght room to fit it, if you cant get it in, its uesless

that is kind of a wide box, hope its goin in a truck or suv cus that may be hard to get into a trunk
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 133
Registered: Jan-06
It's a Boss R3000D amp, "3000 watts" (HAH!), but it's probably about 1000 watts @ 1 ohm stable.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 136
Registered: Jan-06
Bump, Trevor, Marshall, little help?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 137
Registered: Jan-06
By the way, the subs in question are JL 10w6's.

Specs here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12W6AE_MAN.pdf
 

Gold Member
Username: 54danny54

Betsy layne, Kentucky..GO... USA duh

Post Number: 1907
Registered: Nov-04
ok,,,amp specs,,,,sub specs,,,then we can help
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2198
Registered: Sep-04
wire them to 1 ohm if they are D6. that PDF you posted shows you how.

lookin fine on the box but you might want to tune a tad lower for SQ.

you can buy terminal cups, or use bolts like marshal did, w/e you like. they will both work fine but as pointed out above bolts might work better than cheap terminal cups. remember to use a washer on inside and out. good luck with the box. dont slack on it! use a cutting edge and measure the distance form the saw blade to the side of the saw, then place the cutting edge that distnace away from the actual cutline and clamp it down and run the side of the saw against it. it will make everything much easier.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 141
Registered: Jan-06
I have a huge table saw, so the cuts will be easy :-)

How low should I tune it?

BTW, my subs just arrived via fedex like 15 minutes ago.

Will it still play rock/rap and any type of music well for daily driving? I picked 35 hz thinking it was the best middle ground, what do u think?
 

Gold Member
Username: 54danny54

Betsy layne, Kentucky..GO... USA duh

Post Number: 1909
Registered: Nov-04
if i knew wat sub it was then i could tell ya
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2204
Registered: Sep-04
its a 10w6v1

25 hz will be fine actually, but like a 32hz tune will allow it to drop a little lower, but if you like more of the upper quick beats you'll be fine with 35.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 149
Registered: Jan-06
Thanks for the advice Trevor. Heres another question I have, before I begin work on it tonight: Will I be better off having 2 slot ports, 1 on each side so that the three subs have something more symmetrical for the air flow? Or do you think that one big port on only one side wont sound lobsided?

Here is the current design: http://www.accelerator-pedal.com/ported-box.asp?Ew=36&Eh=15&Dia=4&Xmax=11.9&Vd=. 06&NumW=3&Vb=3&Fb=35&Qts=.432&Vas=2.3&Fs=23.1&CE=0

What do you think?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 150
Registered: Jan-06
It's 3 JL 10w6v1's
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3193
Registered: Feb-05
Lewass where did you order your 3 10w6ae's from ? Was it the ae or the v1's ? Let me know...

Here is the pdf to these subs for people that are curiuos.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12W6AE_MAN.pdf
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 151
Registered: Jan-06
Its the 10w6AE, but I thought those were the same mechanically as the v1, I just didn't want to confuse anyone who didn't know about the AE's.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3198
Registered: Feb-05
Where did you buy them from ?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 152
Registered: Jan-06
Check ur PM's MO.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3200
Registered: Feb-05
Havnet gotten you pm yet. Check yours. I sent you one.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3201
Registered: Feb-05
Ok nevermind, i got your pm now. Sweet let me know how it works for you. I plan to get 2 JL 12w6AE's off the 500/1 in the future.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 155
Registered: Jan-06
I've heard 2 12w6AE's before in a relatively small slot ported box, with a generic 1000w amp (think it was a lanzar or something) and they felt like they wanted to murder his car.. He has a 04 monte carlo and the subs totally destroyed his car, rattling has spread so much that you just hear a single omnidirectional constant rattle the whole time they are playing.. he had only his trunk lid dynamatted, and he had his back seats folded down, with the box facing backwards and pushed slightly toward the back of the trunk. It was comparable to a 15" L7 for loudness, but sounded 10X better.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 156
Registered: Jan-06
Can anyone read my post earlier at 3:13 pm and respond, thanks a lot.
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3202
Registered: Feb-05
Lewass, im really excited to hear 2 12w6ae's off the JL 500/1, Wonder if there any other amps out there that are as good as the 500/1 on it. I already have a JL sealed prowedge box left over from my jl 12w6v2's which required the same size at 1.25 cuft net
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2211
Registered: Sep-04
i think having 2 ports over one will just be a cosmetic effect. i dont think you'll be able to notice where the port is lol. having 2 ports is giong to take up more space though. when you have more than one port each (say you have 2) each port tunes half the volume. if that makes snese. and if you had 3... each port tunes 1/3 of the volume. something like that. it sounded better when marshall expalined it lol. but 1 port will need less length than the same port area in 2 ports
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 159
Registered: Jan-06
Yea you should be rockin' out with 2 12w6AE's and 500/1... The perfect little setup really...
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3214
Registered: Feb-05
Let me know how those subs work out for you man. Make a post once you have it fired up.

I need to save up some money before i can buy the 2 12w6AE's from www.woofersetc.com

$279.99 each / Total for 2 - $559.98 + 25.99 shipping = $585.97

They will be going in this box since i sold me 12w6v2's to brandon on here.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2228
Registered: Sep-04
MO, why dont you get like 3 12w3v2s? or 4 10w3v2s? that would be the same price on ebay, would sound amazign and be louder... although your not into the really loud stuff are you?
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 162
Registered: Jan-06
Cool Trevor, I think I am good to go for starting work on it. I think I'll work on it tomorrow after work, the plans are pretty simple, so I think it should come out pretty good.

Here tell me how this looks for a terminal, picture 2 of these. It goes from left to right: Nut/Washer/10 gauge ring terminal/MDF/Locking Washer/Three 10 gauge ring terminals/End of bolt

Upload
 

Gold Member
Username: Suleman36

Maryland U.S.A.

Post Number: 3216
Registered: Feb-05
I whould consider 3 12w6's but they take up to much space. Im not willing to make my trunk that heavy since im not going to be installing this in my SUV which im plannning to sell. Im installing it in my sedan. 2 12w6's should be plenty loud for me sealed. I was also considering running 3 10w6's also since they take up less space then 2 12w6's ! ! !
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 173
Registered: Jan-06
3 10's is more cone area than 2 12's, also it makes the box a lot wider, so I think 2 12's takes up less space.

Yo marshall help a brother out! See if my plans are ok: http://www.accelerator-pedal.com/ported-box.asp?Ew=36&Eh=15&Dia=4&Xmax=11.9&Vd=. 06&NumW=3&Vb=3&Fb=35&Qts=.432&Vas=2.3&Fs=23.1&CE=0

And how about my terminal, any suggestions?
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 2284
Registered: Mar-04
Lewass,

That box should be a good match. I would tune a little lower...prolly 32hz. (thats just me though...35hz is just fine)

As for the bolt terminals...you can actually get copper bolts if you are worried about loss due to the terminals. But in actuality, the bolts i used prolly conduct better than my speaker wire (there is more metal in the bolt)
 

Silver Member
Username: Terry6405

Sullivan, IN US

Post Number: 460
Registered: Sep-05
thats what i figured about the bolts because think about how much actual metal is inside a terminal..... not much
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 184
Registered: Jan-06
Hey marshall what does your terminal look like on the other side of the box? Did you solder or ring it?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2231
Registered: Sep-04
ive never actually done it lewass....

marshal. does he need a washer after that first terminal?
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 2289
Registered: Mar-04
I used ring terminals on the inside.

My terminals are set up like this...
2.5" bolt, ring terminals, double 3/4" MDF, washer, lock-nut, ring terminals, nut.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 188
Registered: Jan-06
Ok I got off work at 5, and heres what I did today:

Upload

Here it is a couple hours later:

Upload

The port doesn't seem to line up right though. The width around the corner gets .5 inches narrower, making me think the calculations are off a little, because I double checked the cuts and they are precise.

Does anyone have some software they could check my box dimensions with? If you key in 36 inches wide, 15 inches tall, and 17.25 inches deep, with 3 10" subs what dimensions does the port need to be? It's supposed to be 35 Hz. Thanks a lot.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 189
Registered: Jan-06
Oh yea Terry good call on the box being super wide, I decided to reduce the width from 40 to 36
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 190
Registered: Jan-06
Oh and I forgot to mention, nothing is screwed or glued in yet, I just balanced them in place.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2248
Registered: Sep-04
hmmm.... if your cuts are correct idk why the measurments are off.... the port DEFINETLY needs to eb consistant.

you need to be more specific. im assuming those are interior dimensions? not counting wood thats 5.39 gross..... oh wait... wahats ur port height and width? do u have a link to the design? although im bout to go to bed...

if u want to try...

http://www.carstereo.com/help/articles.cfm?id=31

rmember the volume slot is NET volume. and remember about sub displacement too.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2249
Registered: Sep-04
btw, your first picture made me laugh.... its like either, "ah sh!t idk what to do" or "is this thing gonna turn into a box by itself?" lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 192
Registered: Jan-06
Hahahaha yea, that's why I took it, because that's exactly what I was thinking..

I'll post a link to the box design tomorrow it's on my computer at work.

The back panel was leaning a little bit towards the front, maybe .5 inches? I don't know, when I bust out the T square tomorrow I will find out for sure if the plans were off or if it's just "hangin a little to the left" hahaha

Do you think I need to drill the screw holes out first to avoid splitting the panels, or can I just screw them in on their own?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2256
Registered: Sep-04
definetly predrill, use a bit that has them go in easy, but they dont loose grip, and push down hard as u put them in. make sure to use enough glue too and seal everything! oh and i reccomend cutting the sub holes in the baffle before you attach it to the rest of the box.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 193
Registered: Jan-06
Speaking of cutting the sub holes, is it bad if there isn't any room in between each sub? I know it will make it weaker if theres not much wood in between each sub, so I thought maybe put them in a 1 up 1 down 1 up type formation, you know what I mean? Or is it ok if the subs are basically touching on either side?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2258
Registered: Sep-04
i know what you mean, that would be kinda cool actually. but its fine if they are touching. just dont slip and connect 2 circles lol. if you want to be safe make the baffle twice as thick.
 

Silver Member
Username: Islandboy808

Mililani, Hawaii US

Post Number: 695
Registered: Nov-05
aint this part wrong
Upload

aint the bottom part panel suppose to go a little more in,so the outside panel is flush on both sides.I really dont know anything about building boxes,just wondering.
 

Silver Member
Username: Islandboy808

Mililani, Hawaii US

Post Number: 697
Registered: Nov-05
i guess its not,from what i see in the plans.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 200
Registered: Jan-06
Do you guys think one 30 inch wide panel of 3/4" MDF can support 3 10" subs weighing just over 50 pounds?

The subs have barely any room left to right, and so they will basically be touching unless I do a up down up type of formation.. Makes me a little worried about cracking the box at high volumes.
 

New member
Username: Stiflyby

Birmingham, MI U.S.A

Post Number: 3
Registered: Feb-06
looks good eric...can't wait to help you put those suckers in
 

Gold Member
Username: Southernrebel

Monroe, Louisiana USA

Post Number: 2301
Registered: Mar-04
if you have enough MDF...just double the baffle.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 208
Registered: Jan-06
Should I double it on the inside of the box (reduce my precious 3 cubes) or outside (make it look lobsided) or do you think I will be ok without doubling it? I guess I view the double baffle as just another chance for something to get messed up. What u think?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tdeaton1021

Near Tampa, Florida USA

Post Number: 2261
Registered: Sep-04
make the secodn piece of the baffle go around the whole front (like cut the rectangle out where th port is and stuff so it all looks good.
 

Silver Member
Username: Lewass

Bloomfield Hills, MI USA

Post Number: 215
Registered: Jan-06
Hmm, not sure what the best way to cut a rectangle like that, but do you know if other people have done 3 10's and only used 1 layer and it worked fine? For some reason just thinking about adding that extra baffle is making me uneasy...
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