Question on wiring subs/wattage

 

New member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 5
Registered: Nov-05
I am very new to all of this audio stuff. I had a quick question - I was looking to upgrade from what I have now to a pair of 12's, and was going to have a car audio place where I live take care of the installation. But I wondered what exactly they would do during the installation. I have an Alpine MRD-M500. According to spreadsheet RMS power at 2 ohms is 500W - what the hell does 2 ohms mean? That means how the subs are wired to each other and then to the amplifier right? What type of wire (gauge/watt) would be used to connect the amplifier to the head unit? How would the subs be wired together? Should I be looking at DVC or SVC... or should I just shut up and let the car audio people do their job.

I wanted to ask so I don't have the wool pulled over my eyes.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 

Silver Member
Username: Theelfkeeper

Stockbridge, GA USA

Post Number: 547
Registered: Feb-05
yes, the ohms the amp "Sees" depends on how the subs are wires. SVC and DVC means single or dual voice coil. say you get 2 4 ohm SVC subs, they can be wired at 2 ohms(parallel, --, ++) or 8 ohms(series, -+, -+) where if they were 4 ohm DVC, they could be wired at 16 ohms, 4 ohms or 1 ohm. you'll want 2 4 ohm SVC subs or 2 2 ohm DVC subs to get your 2 ohm load.

for 500 watts, a 4AWG wire should be fine.

go to www.bcae1.com and scroll down to section 38 for a more in depth explanation about wire, wireing subs and just about anything else you'd wanna know.

all the shop is gonna do is run wires, hook them to amp, hook amp to subs. how well they do all this depends on where you go and how much you pay. but if you don't feel confident you can install this stuff yourself, i'd get help from a someone who know what they are doing or let an installer do it.

 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2728
Registered: Jul-05
David - what u need to do is educate yourself so that even though they are doing the work u will @ least have an idea . Let them give u exact details b4 installing anything ...

what subs are they ?

apart from bcae1 - a simpler read is http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-ymhkeYjMfQy/learningcenter/car/
& www.the12volt.com ......
 

New member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 6
Registered: Nov-05
SuperFly,

They recommended the Memphis Audio Reference 12's

http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/details.asp?cat=&id=56&p=2

Either the SVC or the DVC I'm not sure. I will read up on all of that stuff when I have time. I'm getting the hang of most of it. Didn't realize it was this complicated.

Dave
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2749
Registered: Jul-05
also let them give u a list of products they intend to use & compare it to online prices - maybe u can buy it online yourself & have them do the install 4 u .

Car audio is not really complicated - u just need to know your ohms & watts in rms & a few basic connections , heck u can DIY if u put your mind to it .....
 

New member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 7
Registered: Nov-05
Are those subs any good Superfly? I'm not looking for much just a slight upgrade over the single 10 Infinity Kappa Perfect I have. They said I could stick w/ the same amp but should probably bring my wire gauge from 8 to 4. They were also offering me a pretty sweet vented box for ~$250 that has been dynmatted (or something? can't remember the term they used) on the inside.

Dave
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2765
Registered: Jul-05
never have used memphis & since i have been on this forum since May it seems like not too many ppl on this forum has used them either .

If u like your perfect 10' ,why not get 2 12s in it or 2 Alpine type Rs ?

here's a few 1000wrms amps u can check out too
Diamond audio D61000.
Rockford 10001bd
MB Quart raa1000
PPI 1000
JBL BPX1100.1
 

New member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 8
Registered: Nov-05
For the moment my main concern is headlight dimming. I've been told on here a new alternator is what I need. The guys at the car audio place swear that I need a power cell (Kinetik) and that everything will be fine. But headlight dimming is not the only thing occuring, nor is it just caused by bass. If I roll windows up/down my headlights will dim. My interior lights and dashboard lights also dim. This is becoming a larger concern to me than buying new equipment at the moment. What should I consider? Alternator? Power cell? Or take it into a mechanic and have him poke around?
 

New member
Username: Meat_pops1cle

Post Number: 4
Registered: Nov-05
all depends on your alternator size. my focus has a 110 amp alternator thats gonna have to go soon (soon like this month...). check prices for your car but i've been seeing Bosch 200 amp alts for around $130 bucks on the internet. your headlights dimming sound to me that i would be inadequite alt size, my car does it a little bit but not much. in my honest opinion get a cap for your amp and a new alt and u should be set. just my opinion! :P
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2770
Registered: Jul-05
it seems like u do need an upgraded Alt cause u descibed all the symptoms - attend to that 1st then see about music after .......
 

New member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 9
Registered: Nov-05
Going to look for cheapest place to get a new alt. I have unplugged the sub for the amp now and no dimming (but obvious lack of bass!) [In case I didn't mention it, current sub is Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1D] At the moment I think the whole dimming/electrical system thing will be taken care of first.

Question: SuperFly I like your suggestion of Type-R's. I would upgrade my amp accordingly and probably sell (or give) my old stuff to my brother. I read on another post that a good amplifier for these subs would be an Orion1200D. I found the following specs:
• 425W x 1 @ 4 Ohm Stereo
• 725W x 1 @ 2 Ohm Stereo
• 1200W x 1 @ 1 Ohm Bridged

When wired, would these #'s be divided by 2 since 2 subs would be installed? So if the subs were hooked up to run at 1 ohm, and for instance the Alpine SWR-1242Ds are rated at 500W RMS, this would be ok? Since 1200/2 = 600, but 500x2 = 1000 leaving 200W in headroom?

Really dying to order new stuff but new alt first :'(
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2805
Registered: Jul-05
u could leave your sub on just lower the gains so that u can hear a lil amt of bass .

what u r saying above is exactly what i rec to Chad Lee & he loves it - i will tell him to post in this thread & he will tell u about his experience ....

 

New member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 10
Registered: Nov-05
Would I be looking at the 1222D or the 1242D?
 

Gold Member
Username: Rovin

Trinidad & T...

Post Number: 2810
Registered: Jul-05
u need (2) 1242D type R

Chad has the Kicker amp

u wire up both like this Upload
 

Silver Member
Username: Bestmankind

Los Angeles, CA USA

Post Number: 669
Registered: Oct-05
yes i do like it. you can pound the hell out of them with a 1200wrms amp and they will take it.

also maybe your battery is a little old so that is why it is doing that. i have kx1200.1 amp and a RF punch 800.4 amp hooked up with my stock alternator and i don't get any dimming.
 

Gold Member
Username: Chaunb3400

Huntsville, Alabama U.S.

Post Number: 1764
Registered: Jul-05
how many amps is ur alternator
 

Bronze Member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 11
Registered: Nov-05
The stock is 80. Nathan from Excessive Amperage said I could get a 180A for $310 shipped. After telling that to the guys at the audio shop they said they could have one built their for cheaper... but continued to insist that a power cell is really what I need. I'm giving my uncle a call today who has been a mechanic and car dealer for about 15 yrs now and see what he thinks. Once I figure out what I need, I believe I will be getting the Type-R's and a new amplifier. I was right about the 1200W @ 1ohm w/ 2 subs = 1200/2 = 600 leaving 100W headroom on both of the Type-R's right? Meaning the MRD-M500 I have now would seriously underpower them.
 

Silver Member
Username: Solacedagony

New Jersey US

Post Number: 639
Registered: Oct-04
You definately need an alternator. What is this "power cell" these guys are talking about? If it's like a capacitor, it's not going to help you, only make your problems worse.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 13
Registered: Nov-05
It's now a battery... or at least it doesn't appear to be one. If you go here: http://www.kinetikpower.com/faq.asp

You can read the FAQ's on what they are exactly. I'm still thinking alternator... I've been noticing that when I tap on breaks the headlights dim... but its BARELY noticeable... and sometimes I can see some barely noticeable dimming when a turn signal is on. When it blinks, lights dim, when it fades, lights come up... very weird.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Djbeanpole

Post Number: 14
Registered: Nov-05
I mean its NOT a battery... but uh yea... I'm still trying to figure out what some of these functions on my amplifier do... maybe that could help a bit I think my friend just threw it in there and did nothing but just installed it and made sure sound came out.
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