Speakerbox's 96 Grand Am

 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2107
Registered: Dec-03
"I'm trying to figure out a problem with someone's sound system on a 96' or 98' Grand Am. I seen the amp (I'm sure it was a 300 - 350 watt amp but I could tell it was cheap) and some swap meet 10" subs which I've never seen the name brand and I'm sure it's extremely cheap. He had it working for a while and it started turning off within 3 days of installation."

"I checked the speaker wires and noticed he has the front and back speakers plus the subs all connected, and I seen how the connection of the RCA adapter was plugged in the back speakers. I'm assuming that might be the reason why his speakers were turning off."

ok is this a stock head unit and front/rear speakers, with the aftermarket amp and subs connected to the rear speaker leads using an LOC or the amp's high level inputs?
yeah, with most line converters (LOCs) you won't be able to still have speakers connected.
Be sure he has the proper amp wiring kit too for power (350 watts would be at least 8AWG) and be sure his ground is a solid metal chassis ground with a tight connection to bare metal. (test it with a meter)
be sure his gains are set properly and not cranked up.
they shouldn't be above about half way.
make sure the subs aren't presenting the amp with less than a 2 ohm load, or 4 ohms if the amp is stereo and bridged to mono.

"I checked the remote wire to be sure, it was plugged in the back of his stock cd/radio (normal blue wire) but this is the first time I've seen a cheap installation so I'm not sure which is the problem."

blue isn't always remote trigger on a stock harness. check that signal line with a DMM and be sure it sends +12V when the stereo is on.
Or, just re-wire it to the fusebox so the amp gets the +12V signal to turn on the sub amp whenever the car has keys in it (ignition line)
even if his factory deck did have a power antenna, that would only work when the radio was on and not tape or CD.

"The amp doesn't turn on anymore, but the system in the car works fine."

bad wiring job seems like all it is

"I'm debating if it's a fuse that's out,"

fuses are easy
check with a meter or replace them.

"or the remote wire is supposed to be connected differently,"

bingo!

"or if something is broken."

could be that cheap amp, yeah... but if the amp were dead it shouldn't ever work.

if the amp is turning on then off.. the remote signal isn't keeping +12 to the system.
that's the problem right there.

 

New member
Username: Speakerbox

Post Number: 8
Registered: Apr-04
I just checked it out, the power chord is a 8 gague, and his amp is 340watts so I'm out to get a 10 gague plus some backup fuses because the fuse is only 30 instead of 40 - 50. Is there a real difference between the fuse anyhow?

OK, if that doesn't solve the problem I'll plug the remote wire in the fuse box (ignition) and if that doesn't solve the problem then I'll check if the amp even lights up. If it lights up do you have any advice how to solve that?

By chance the amp is working and there's sound but it turns off and on again, I'll get rid of the front or back speaker connection and it should solve everything because the remote wire is plugged into the ignition and should have constant 12v running.

If there's another wire on the back of the head unit I could connect it to which would work better, which would it be and/or which color.

If that doesn't make it work then there's most likely a wiring problem, amp problem, or speaker problem. Either way I'll make him take it to get professionally done. He got it installed at Circuit City and they did a bad job on it.

The questions I have about this project are:
"If the amp's light doesn't turn on, is it because of the remote wire connection, or power cord or both?"

"If the ground wire(s) from the RCA adapter was done incorrect could it have ruined the system in any way?"

"If any wires came in contact with one another could it have ruined the system in any way?"

Since I'm replacing both fuses today let's rule out the possibility any of them burned out.

The only reason why I'm annoyed by this project is because it's the first time I've seen a amp installed on a stock head unit and it's new to me.

I've installed plenty of amps and this is the first one I've actually been clueless to solve.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2136
Registered: Dec-03
"the power chord is a 8 gague, and his amp is 340watts so I'm out to get a 10 gague plus some backup fuses because the fuse is only 30 instead of 40 - 50. Is there a real difference between the fuse anyhow?"

you want to match the fuse to the current being drawn by the amplifier. 340 watts is about a 40A fuse.
For cable gauges, use this chart:
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

"OK, if that doesn't solve the problem I'll plug the remote wire in the fuse box (ignition) and if that doesn't solve the problem then I'll check if the amp even lights up. If it lights up do you have any advice how to solve that?"

one step at a time.
re-wire that remote lead to something that gives 12VDC when the keys are in the ignition, and no voltage when the keys are removed.
That will turn the amp on with the car.

"If the amp's light doesn't turn on, is it because of the remote wire connection, or power cord or both?"

could be a bad amp, bad ground, badly wired remote trigger... or a short in the speaker wiring.

"If there's another wire on the back of the head unit I could connect it to which would work better, which would it be and/or which color."

hard to say.
wiring is different for every car as for colors.
most factory units don't have a remote trigger line at all. That's one reason to avoid factory radios for amplifier setups.

"He got it installed at Circuit City and they did a bad job on it."

most of their installers are highschool dropouts anyway, with no formal training at all.

"If the ground wire(s) from the RCA adapter was done incorrect could it have ruined the system in any way?"

nah, it just wouldn't function properly.
ground issues cause all sorts of troubles for car systems.

"If any wires came in contact with one another could it have ruined the system in any way?"

yes. easily. a dead short can fry an amplifier in a heartbeat.

"The only reason why I'm annoyed by this project is because it's the first time I've seen a amp installed on a stock head unit and it's new to me."

it's fairly common, but never works ideally.. its just for adding a bit of bass to a factory system.
ideally, the person would replace the entire system, but that takes money.

 

New member
Username: Speakerbox

Post Number: 9
Registered: Apr-04
Problems were, amp was shutting off, and no CD player was working.

Changed the power cord to a 10 gague which solved the problem he had with the amp turning off and on.

The power cord came with a 40 fuse so that solves that.

I plugged the ground wire into a bolt under the upholstry (scraped off some paint before doing so) and it made the sound more clean for some reason.

Plugged the remote wire into the fuse box, which solved the CD player problem.

I noticed his speakers sounded kind of funny when the music was louder so I just used the fade button and made them in the back only and it made the system sound more clean when the volume was raised and made the subs kick better.

I told him to buy (or steal) a new head unit so I would be able to plug the remote wire properly and connect the RCA cables to have a better sound in the car and so he can have sound in the front and back of his car. He likes the system and might just keep it how it is so at least everything worked out.

Thanks for the help on this, now back to your regularly scheduled program.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2176
Registered: Dec-03
"Changed the power cord to a 10 gague which solved the problem he had with the amp turning off and on."

I told ya 10AWG is too small.
you need at least 8AWG for that much current.
you'll end up starting a fire in that kid''s car.

"I plugged the ground wire into a bolt under the upholstry (scraped off some paint before doing so) and it made the sound more clean for some reason."

gee, go figure :-)
make it also an 8AWG line.

"Plugged the remote wire into the fuse box, which solved the CD player problem."

told ya so :-)

tell him to get a head unit with sub outs, too.
that'll give a much cleaner signal to the subs.
and then his fader won't affect subs.
his fronts are bottoming out. he needs bass-blockers on his front and rear speakers to fix that funny sound, and give him more clean volume.
he could get a ncie clarion for around $150
 

Bronze Member
Username: Speakerbox

Post Number: 12
Registered: Apr-04
I'll just give him my old head unit when I buy a new one next month, that should be more than efficient with his amp and subs.

I checked out his amp online.

"DUAL XAF340 2/1-channel bridgeable amplifier"

The instruction manual said to get a 10 gague power and ground cord.

You still think it may cause a fire? If so I'm gonna get a camera, disposable cameras are cheaper than the cords and I'll treasure it forever.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2188
Registered: Dec-03
is he running that amp bridged, or stereo?
 

Bronze Member
Username: Speakerbox

Post Number: 14
Registered: Apr-04
Amp, I'm still buying a camera before the power and ground cords.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2194
Registered: Dec-03

http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

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