I am using an ma audio hk15xs the specs are 2000W RMS 4000W MAX Sensitivity: 90.6dB @ 1w/1m Mounting Depth 9 3/8" Mounting Diameter 14.2" Vented Box: 5 cu/ft Port: 80 sq/in 13.0" Long Sealed Box: 2-2.5 cu/ft
I have this in a 5 cubic foot ported box. I am looking to hit 150+ dbs this upcoming season. Is it possible? I have a 96 eclipse hatch so I have that on my side but I would like to remain in the stock class for USACI. What changes will I have to make to hit my goal? I scored a 145.8 with the setup I have now. My sub is wired to 1 ohm bridged and is run by a visonik v900hc which the specs are: 2 x 750W Rms @ 4 Ohm Stereo 2 x 1000W Rms @ 2 Ohm Stereo 2 x 1500W Rms @ 1 Ohm Stereo 2 x 2000W Rms @ ½ Ohm Stereo 1 x 3200W Rms @ 1 Ohm Bridged
I'm not sure what my freq. is of my car, don't know what a crx style box is, and my voltage drops to 11 on burps. I have an alternator when I tested it in the car under a load it put out 174 amps. 2 Batteries and a 5 farad cap.
go to an audio shop and get on a termlab...run a tone sweep and find the freqency you peak at. (then tune your box to peak at that freq.)
a CRX box is just subs up, ports back. hatchbacks tend to like this style of box. since you have 1 sub, try putting the port on the bottom of the box firing back on the drivers side. (if you can get them, try using areo-ports...flared round ports)
MA subs arent really known for high SPL...and to tell the truth, i'm dont really like MA subs at all. you may wanna try a better, more SPL oriented subs...ex: RE MT, DD9515, audioque HD15.
my box is sub fireing up and 2 round ports on each side. I know there is big talk about the re mt but I am still alittle sketchy on the idea of a subwoofer with no warranty.
The MT has no warranty because it is built to be abused...and aduse = null and void warranties, thus they offer no warranty. (MT's are made strictly for competition...but can be use daily in the right hands)
but if you do end up blowing it a recone on the MT is only ~$100.
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