In a thread a few days ago, I remember you typing that sealed speakers have a greater power handling than ported speakers.
In the home audio world, this is just the opposite. As, for example, a pair of my Sony bookshelves are rated at 50W RMS, sealed. A pair of the Pioneer counterparts, ported, are rated I believe at 70W RMS.
Sealed, from my knowledge, has greater bandwidth/depth/but less efficiency, therefore less power handling, due to lack of air space.
Where, ported, again, from my knowledge has greater lower depth/can have similar or equal bandwidth/and much greater efficiency (3dB+) due to air being moved out of the speaker enclosure in set amounts.
This is all based on my knowledge of home audio speakers. I can't see why a home subwoofer/woofer in a given enclosure, would be completely different than a car subwoofer/woofer in a given enclosure. I mean, the physics are the SAME!
Josh CCS
Unregistered guest
Posted on
Are you talking about power handling or output? Because power handling is greater in a sealed box due to less pressure. In a ported enclosure there is usually at least twice the air pressure, thus putting more strain on the voice coil and decreasing power handling. While the speaker sounds louder, it can not handle as much power. Also, by lower depth do you mean frequency response? Because frequency response is always lower in a sealed box. Frequency response in a ported enclose can only go as deep as the tuning frequency, after that you risk pushing the drive into over-excursion and destroying it.
That's what I was meaning. And yes, FR is what I was meaning by depth. I just didn't feel like typing frequency response :P. I know POWER HANDLING is less in ported, but I wanted clarification on what he meant by that, if he indeed meant that or output.
But since you came along and answered it, I guess I have my clarification.
Personally, I'm a huge fan of sealed speakers in general. I love the SQ of them, regardless of the lack of "loudness".
What I love, is how my car subs are in a sealed enclosure, and when listening from an open trunk, they don't sound loud like my friend's whose are in a slot ported box, but when you get in the car, and listen, with the windows open a bit the bass is rediculous, where his are just the opposite, and is rather weak. Even with the windows closed, mine are louder internally than his, so often times, I get told my subs don't hit hard enough, until people get INTO the car, then it's much different in attitude.
Josh CCS
Unregistered guest
Posted on
LOL. Thats sweet. Sealed speakers do have great SQ. I myself prefer a mix, bordering the stupid loud, "whats that coming out of my ears oh its blood" sound. However I have not the cash to achieve such a system. But I have heard some crazy loud subs in sealed enclosures. I guess maybe some are optimized for best performance in sealed? I duno...interesting thing to research I guess. I have seen..I think its called an EBP rating or something. It supposed to tell if your subs are bette in ported or sealed boxes, but I don't quite get how it can tell that...ah well.
That'd be awesome to know. But then again, the home audio Cerwin Vega V-15F's I want to buy are ported, with peaks of 134dB basswise, and are ported and tuned down to 26Hz I believe, and are supposed to sound very very nice. So who knows, it's all in the design I guess.
"In the home audio world, this is just the opposite. As, for example, a pair of my Sony bookshelves are rated at 50W RMS, sealed. A pair of the Pioneer counterparts, ported, are rated I believe at 70W RMS."
comparing apples and orangatans.
you're talking about two completely different speakers, and home or car it doesn't matter. the same driver in a sealed box will have a higher mechanical power handling than that driver in a ported enclosure. Pressure in a vented enclosure is higher than sealed, and sealed provides a better suspension. This also relates to a sealed box being quicker with lower group delay.
anyway Tyler, you seem to have a lot of misinformation about the audio world in general. I'm thinking it may do you a lot of good to read through bcae1.com and diysubwoofers.com then go to the12volt.com, visit their BOOKS link, and buy some of those books listed on driver and enclosure design and basic electronics. read them. it'll help clear up a lot of your misconceptions about hings like enclosure characteristics and amplifier bridging.
(plus to be honest, I'm just getting sorta tired of correcting a lot of these threads..)
yeah some of the books sort of assume you have a background in this before they even start. others are better for beginners or less experienced folk though.
tyler ur tryin to go all out with a heavy weight here its not gunna work .. lol im just playin
Anonymous
Posted on
Tell Tyler to start at the very basics like Crutchfield's advisory section .
I totally agre with Glass that he should do some SERIOUS reading . Use your time better instead of flooding other ppl's thread with his own inane babbling about stuff totally unrelated to topic at hand .
Not to mention his crusade on those Volvenhag subs he loves to yak about OMG ! , give that a freaking rest , Pleeze !