Hey glasswolf i got a question for ya

 

Bronze Member
Username: Bdb_86

Bemidji, MN Usa

Post Number: 89
Registered: Dec-03
ok i need to get somthing strieght we were talking about somthing a while back and i never got to see if you answered it well anways i know what parallel wiring is and i know what series wiring is but now is there somthing called a series-perallel wiring and if there is could you explain it to me and not just give me a link to some web site thanks
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1869
Registered: Dec-03
yeah it's combining series and parallel wiring if you have multiple speakers on oone amp channel.

example, you have two DVC subs on a mono amp.
if the coils are in parallel, and the subs are in series, that's a series-parallel wiring setup.
if you have four subs that are SVC, and wire them the same way, same result.. same thing.
it's just a combination of series and parallel wiring to get a workable load for teh amplifier.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Bdb_86

Bemidji, MN Usa

Post Number: 90
Registered: Dec-03
ok i was talking about this one time and every one started yelling at me saying they would never mix series and parellel wiring but yet the way that i was using it was i had 3 SVC subs and i was told that if you wire them all in perellel but switch the neg and pos on the middle sub its called series parellel and it was suposed to make it over 1.33 ohms but then when i though about it i relized that that is no different than parellel your just going to put them out of phase am i right (they still pounded preaty hard though)

i should of known what it was because i wire the DVC subs like you were saying all the time

o and you are right it is better to have an even number amount of subs then an odd
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1891
Registered: Dec-03
oh sure you can mix series and parallel wiring as long as the subs are the same type.
you just need to calculate the resulting load and be sure it comes out (usually) between 2 and 4 Ohms for the amp..
 

Bronze Member
Username: Bdb_86

Bemidji, MN Usa

Post Number: 95
Registered: Dec-03
the amp i had was stable to 1 ohm it was a phoenix gold 550w
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1911
Registered: Dec-03
hence the (usually) remark
some amps are stable to lower loads.
like the Orion 225HCCA can go to half an ohm..
but I wouldn't try that with "most" amps
 

Bronze Member
Username: Bdb_86

Bemidji, MN Usa

Post Number: 100
Registered: Dec-03
its funny to right now i have 2 4ohm woofers hooked in perellel and my ohm meater says its 1.5 ohms and it say that both speakers are 3.7ohms or somthing like that the amp i have is a crunch v-drive 150rms watt and i know its not stable to 1 ohm but o well its a small stereo and i am going to be upgrading the hole thing some day any ways and i dont listen to it that much

yes i know that some amps can handle as low as one ohm and some cant i was just letting you know what i had
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1924
Registered: Dec-03
the resistance (DC voltage) will read a bit lower on a speaker than it's actual nominal impedance (AC voltage)
remember speakers work using AC, and the actual impedance varies constantly based on the frequencies the speakers are reproducing at that moment.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bdb_86

Bemidji, MN Usa

Post Number: 101
Registered: Dec-03
based on the frequencies the speakers are reproducing at that moment?

does this mean that i should cheak the resistance while i am running th speakers

or my other guess is does the resistance change as the frequency changes (the speakers nominal resistance is 4 ohms but as the hrz get higher the resistance get lower/higher i dont know)
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1957
Registered: Dec-03
ok 4 ohms is the impedance of the speaker.
that's usually listed as "nominal" which means 'average.'
as the AC voltage travels back and forth through the voice coil, energizing the field and causing teh wire-wrapped coil to travel back and forth within the magnet structure, the actual impedance that configuration presents to teh amp will vary.
This is why a speaker has an "Fs" if free air resonance. This is the point at which the speaker (in Hertz) is most efficient. This also means the point where the impedance of the driver is the lowest usually as well.
If the Fs of the sub is 24Hz, then usually at 24Hz, the impedance on a 4 Ohm sub could drop to as low as maybe 1.2 ohms.
Now, this would only really happen using a signal generator, since usually the speaker is producing quite a range of frequencies at once, causing the impedance to stay fairly within a reasonable range..

anyway, the point is that a speaker is what we call a "reactive load" meaning that the impedance or load the speaker presents to the electrica circuit (the amp in this case) reacts and varies to what it's doing at the moment.

keep in mind resistance is DC, and impedance is AC, and they are not always the same.
what you emasured with your meter was resistance.
the impedance would be different, by a bit, for a speaker.
it's common for a 4 ohm sub to read a resistance of 3.2 ohms at rest.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bdb_86

Bemidji, MN Usa

Post Number: 105
Registered: Dec-03
ok sweet i get it now thanks alot i have so much more to learn but around my hood i am one of the best :S
« Previous Thread Next Thread »



Main Forums

Today's Posts

Forum Help

Follow Us