Theft proof

 

Silver Member
Username: Legacyaudio

Post Number: 137
Registered: Feb-05
any ideas on how to keep the sub box from moving around in the trunk- i cant put a U pin in the bottom so if there are any other ways it would be great help

also how did yall ground your amp- just a screw in the bottom of your trunk?
 

Gold Member
Username: Subfanatic

Ky

Post Number: 4740
Registered: Dec-04
for the ground...basically. and for theft protection no your box, use some funky screws like the ones that need alan wrenches or sockets, or the nine cats or wahter. but dont use ordinary flat head and phillips screws. just use 90degree angle flaps and screw it down
 

Gold Member
Username: James1115

Wilton, Ct

Post Number: 3884
Registered: Dec-04
a good ground is your seat belt bolts in the rear of your car just make sure you scrape the paint away so you ground to bare metal, and for theft proof there is no such thing! if they want it that bad a flatbed always does the trick!
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 688
Registered: Apr-05
My Cherokee HAD bullet proof windows, re-keyed, had motion/switches on doors, and back hatch, and vibration sensors for the car alarm. I had 16 point bolts holding everything down, and the amps/etc were covered with plexy-glass, very strong too. The speaker box was actually built INTO the Jeep, so it wouldnt come out unless you ripped it apart, and the subs were covered with plexy glass too, with the same 16 point bolts... Man I wish I still had pictures of it... should have never sold it...
 

Silver Member
Username: Zero43

Kyle, TX USA

Post Number: 154
Registered: May-05
Which cherokee did you have and why didnt you sell it to me. LOL
I wanted to do some mods to turn a cherokee into a show car.

Why cause few do LOL. Ought to be interesting once I pay it off...
 

Silver Member
Username: Zero43

Kyle, TX USA

Post Number: 155
Registered: May-05
you can bolt the box down with a padded U bar and if you ant to theft proof it
weld some loops to the floors and lock it down.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 689
Registered: Apr-05
I got a lot of money for it... Heh. It was a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Pretty slick car. It was also an off-road beast. Lockers front and rear, 31" REALLY aggressive tires. Pure show car though... I'm still crying.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 3931
Registered: Nov-04
Were your doors bullet proof also? That could've been your chick magnet. They love safe cars like that.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 696
Registered: Apr-05
No... I wasn't going for a "safe" ride. I just didn't want anyone breaking out my windows :P. And my wife is all I can handle anyways :P. She's as hot as I can stand :D... And she feels safe with me. I'm an ex-marine. :D
 

Silver Member
Username: Basshead86

Ocala, FL USA

Post Number: 555
Registered: Aug-05
you could always weld your trunk shut. lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Zero43

Kyle, TX USA

Post Number: 156
Registered: May-05
how much did you get for it

I have never seen a show presentable cherokee
A friend of mine does trucks and he keeps trying to talk me into lowering it
I hesitant to do that what do you think

whered you get the glass from and how much
 

Silver Member
Username: Zero43

Kyle, TX USA

Post Number: 157
Registered: May-05
i have an 01 limited. (no four wheel drive.. tear..) 4wd wouldve been hell on insurance that i didnt want to pay
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 698
Registered: Apr-05
LOL! I got the glass from a local dealer, and it was EXPENSIVE. And I got about $16,000 for it with the system and all. I lost quit a bit, and if you count in all my labor, I lost TONS! And don't lower it. Here's something my grandfather passed on to me, who owned many a Jeeps in his day, and a great mechanic: "When Jeep makes something, it's better left alone!"

When you start messing with suspension, it gets ugly, take this from someone with experience in it. I just worked on a 1985 1/2 ton Chevy with a 3" body lift, and from all the things he's broken, his bill was $300 just in labor. You have to consider more than just lowering it, you'll put stress on things that arn't ment to have stress on them. Me, personally, would never lower/raise a vehicle unless it was strickly for competition. But it's your choice.

And think about it. What does a lift/lower do? It's for pure look. If you lower it, it'll look g@y, in my opinion. Yea, it'll be different, but the first time you hit a bump... you'll get the idea. And with the lift kit... big tires... it's all show. I know the kid that put the 3" lift on it, will probably NEVER use, and will NEVER need the big tires. But hey, he's paying me :D.
 

Silver Member
Username: Zero43

Kyle, TX USA

Post Number: 158
Registered: May-05
Its nice to know someone agrees with me I did think it was fine the way it is. My other worry if lowered would be the gas tank its about the 3rd lowest hanging part of it.

I need to upgrade the suspension though to smoothen out the ride it sometimes gets a little rough. I live out in the outlands i guess you can say. Did you do any body work. I was wondering what mods were out there but i am having a hard time finding them as well as under the hood..

Oh and what was your approach in eliminating the rattling and vibrating.

Im glad to meet someone who has a cherokee who treats it right and not run them to the ground..



hey i got a question for you. What do you think of the liberty. lol
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 703
Registered: Apr-05
Suspension wise, yea, they can use some upgrading for the ride. Look into JC Whitney. Call 'em and ask them what they think. They should be able to set you up, but make sure they know you DO NOT want to lift/lower it at all...

And for body work, I just left it the hell alone!!! No need for chopping, just messes everything up.

And for the rattling... well... That back hatch is horrible! I dynmatted the ENTIRE thing, and the back was done with two layers, and then coated with the spray on stuff. I had the windows sealed by a friend up here that got me the glass, and he did an awesome job. And the exhaust was pretty horrible too, I ended up frabricating that all myself.

Liberty? They shouldn't have even considered that one...
 

Silver Member
Username: Legacyaudio

Post Number: 140
Registered: Feb-05
Lowered trucks are for guys who cant get it up

Period
 

Bronze Member
Username: John8x12

Post Number: 98
Registered: Aug-05
I still remember back in highschool a guy with a lowered truck got stuck on a speedbump in the school parking lot. It was one of the funniest things I've seen. Then to get it off, we lifted up the back end and turned the truck. The guy cussed at us for messing up his suspension. Memories...
 

Silver Member
Username: Zero43

Kyle, TX USA

Post Number: 162
Registered: May-05
thats funny stuff. Dont you just hate it when you see these lowered SUVS and trucks with little bitty tires. Seems to be becoming an unsightly trend where I am.

Oh wait there is something i saw today that really pissed me off. I was getting on highway when I heard a car pulling up quickly behind unneccesarily revving up real high with a high pitch exhaust. Next thing I know there is a truck with an screwed up paint job passing me. Fascinating is it not
Why on earth would some idiot put a car exhaust on a truck it still bothers me even now
 

Silver Member
Username: Legacyaudio

Post Number: 141
Registered: Feb-05
although i will say ford lightning's are fu(king awesome
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 708
Registered: Apr-05
Ford? bleh.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mrmbq

Portland, OR USA

Post Number: 47
Registered: Aug-05
I drilled 2 holes into the bottom of each speaker box (2 boxes total) and drilled 4 corresponding holes into the bottom of the trunk. Using the hols that I drilled, I bolted the boxes to the bottom of the trunk. This makes it hard to steal them and it keeps them from moving around. In order to take them out without destroying the box, the fuel tank must be removed and that is alot of work. I did the same thing to my amp rack.

I grounded my amps, as well as everything else in my system, via a 1/0 GA in-4 GA out distribution block that is connected directly to battery negative. The way I see it, that is the best possible way to ground any system.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Fandim

Reno, Nevada United State...

Post Number: 91
Registered: Jun-05
Isnt that ground a bit too long?? I thought they recomended a smaller than like 18" ground??
 

Gold Member
Username: Invain

Michigan United States

Post Number: 3445
Registered: Aug-04
Use "L" brackets. Screw the back side to the box and screw the bottom to the floor of your car. Use hex head screws, or anything different that the average retarted thief can't get out without breaking it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Spyder

Eglin AFB, Florida USA

Post Number: 58
Registered: Jun-05
HEHE i got the best theft device....took 4 people to put the box in my car.....then 2 people to put the sub in...basically if you can single handedly lift the box yourself and walk off with it....i will let ya have it.....BTW the box actually wieghes in at 228pounds.... 1inch thick MDF with 4 2X4 trusts aluminum lined and fiberglassed internally.....plus the wieght of the W7 itself. i think the shop that put it in went a little overboard on it tho. oh yeah this is in a 2001 firebird hard top.
 

Silver Member
Username: Kd7nfr

Montpelier, ID United States

Post Number: 716
Registered: Apr-05
Yea, that's overboard for one sub...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Mrmbq

Portland, OR USA

Post Number: 59
Registered: Aug-05
"Isnt that ground a bit too long?? I thought they recomended a smaller than like 18" ground??"

Ground = Battery negative

If, for example, the amp is mounted in the trunk and a wire is ran to the battery negative post to ground the amp, the current travels (depending on the vehicle) roughly 20 feet. If a chassis ground is used in this same scenario, the current travels through some bolt and then finds it's way to the chassis, then to the battery-to-chassis ground wire and to the battery negative post...roughly 20 feet of travel also.

The way I see it, the only way to obtain a distance of 18 inches from the amp to ground is to mount the amp within 18 inches of the battery.

I prefer to go strait to the battery to ground because chassis grounds often times (not always)utilize small spot welds that were a sufficient ground for stock equipment and not neccesarily adaquate for high powered aftermarket stereos.
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