k i posted on here like 2 weeks ago about buying a new setup, glasswolf recommended the kicker comp VR's with a kicker KX1200.1 and ive decided to follow his advice. ive read lately that the kicker amps put out more power than advertised, so i was looking for advice as to what to set my amp at when i get it. also, am i going to have too much power for a stock 2002 honda civic HX alternator? if so how much would an upgrade cost? any help is appreciated, thanks in advance
dont mean to be bothersome but can anyone offer any insight for me? thanks.
First off that's a good amp, and you would just not crank it up all the way. And it depends, see if your lights dim when the subs hit, if they do, which I'm thinking they are going to, then you need to upgrade your alt. Upgrade around $200 or so I would say, and a good place is http://excessiveamperage.com/ And ask for Nathan. Hope some of this helped.
I was considering the Comp VRs, but everyone at another forum steered me away from them due to my KX1200.1 being too powerful for two of those subs. I thought about using three of them, but finally went with the Diamond D612D4s.
It turned out my 4-Runner has a pitiful 60A alternator. I'm guessing that's another $300 to spend that I hadn't exactly planned on spending. Oh well...
I have a crossfire vr1000d mono amp for my 2 jl 12w6v2's and my stock alternator is 85A and im not getting any dimming lights at all. I am using a 1 farad cap and so far i have no problems at all. I have a HO alternator on the way as a backup in case. 180A at that.
I have a crossfire vr1000d mono amp for my 2 jl 12w6v2's and a ppi a300.2 for my componants and my stock alternator is 85A and im not getting any dimming lights at all. I am using a 1 farad cap and so far i have no problems at all. I have a HO alternator on the way as a backup in case. 180A at that.
I agree that it might not matter as long as one is very careful with their volume, gain, and bass settings, but that KX1200.1 is overpowering Comp VRs by quite a bit. The lowest rating I've seen on a Birth Sheet for the KX1200.1 is 1350w RMS. The highest I've seen is 1510w RMS. Judging from these specs, he'd be running 675w-755w RMS into 400w RMS subs. I think he'd have to be very careful with this and wouldn't be taking full advantage of the KX1200.1's capability. Of course, using 3 Comp VRs would solve the problem.
I'm certain I'm gonna have some serious alternator issues. I was running a Punch 200 and a Hifonics Boltar (Old School) back in the day and my lights pretty much went out during bass notes. People used to pull over thinking I was flashing my lights at them. LOL. I'm not sure what size alternator was in my Nissan truck back then, but I'm sure it wasn't any smaller than this tiny 60A in my 4-Runner. I'll be running at least 700w RMS more in my new system, so my alternator doesn't stand a chance.
Can anyone tell me what size alternator I need? I'll be running a KX1200.1 @ 1 ohm and a KX450.2 @ 2 ohms for now.
I ordered mine with nathan last week. It costs much less to build a alternator for a toyota then it does for a mitsubishi. He is hand building me the stators in my alternator and making it as big as possible for me. 180A is the best he says he can do for me and that should be more then enough and give me some head