Did I blew my 12" Type R? or the amp?


New member
Username: Ian999

N/a, N/a NorthAmerica

Post Number: 1
Registered: Aug-05
Hello all,

Here is my setup
HU is Sony cdx mp450x
EQ is Clarion EQS750
Alpine MRV-F407 4 channel (components + 6x9)
Sub amp is RF Power 800a2 (old school 1999)
SUB is 1 x Alpine Type R 12" DVC 4+4ohms (factory ported box forgot he model for it)
ALPINE SPR-175A components and Alpine Type S 6x9

Raptor wiring kit (4gauge 150A at battery at power distribution 2x60AUG Stinger Fuse)

Here are the spec for the alpine amp, rf amp, and the sub.
I know the deck need to be changed its crappy.

Alpine MRV-F407
10% THD Power (at 14.4V)
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 90W x 4 (1kHz)

-Dividing Network : 50Hz-8kHz HP/LP/BP (12dB/oct)
-Foot Print (WxHxD)in : 13O x 11O x 2-3/8O
-Foot Print (WxHxD)mm : 330mm x 280mm x 60mm
-Frequency Reponse : 10Hz-50kHz (+0,-1dB)
-Heat Sink (WxHxD)in : 13O x 10-1/4O x 2-3/8O
-Heat Sink (WxHxD)mm : 330mm x 260mm x 60mm
-Input Impedance : 10k ohm
-Input Sensitivity (for rated power) : 200mV ~ 4.0V
-Power Requirements : 14.4V DC (11V to 16V)
-Signal to Noise (S/N) : 105dBA (referenced to rated power)
-Slew Factor : greater than 5
-Speaker Impedance : 4 or 2 ohms(stereo), 4 ohms(bridged)
-Weight : 5.2kg(11lbs. 7oz.)

MAX Power (at 14.4V,EIAJ)

-Bridged 4 ohms : 320W x 2
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 120W x 4

RMS Power (at 12V,20Hz-20kHz)

-Bridged 4 ohms : 100W x 2 (0.3% THD)
-Per channel into 2 ohms : 50W x 4 (0.3% THD)
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 40W x 4 (0.08% THD)

RMS Power (at 14.4V,20Hz-20kHz)

-Bridged 4 ohms : 160W x 2 (0.3% THD)
-Per channel into 2 ohms : 80W x 4 (0.3% THD)
-Per channel into 4 ohms : 60W x 4 (0.08% THD)

Rockford fosgate Power 800a2 channel Amp specs:
Dynamic Power Rating (IHF-202 Standard) - Measured at 14.4 Volts

Mono into a 4ohm Load 960 Watts x 1
Per channel into a 2ohm Load 480 Watts x 2
Per channel into a 4ohm Load 240 Watts x 2

Continuous Power Rating (Competition Standard) - Measured at 13.8 Battery Volts

RMS continuous power per channel, 200 Watts x 2
both channels driven into a 4ohm load from
20 to 20,000 Hz with
less than0.05% (THD)

RMS continuous power per channel, 400 Watts x 2
both channels driven into a 2ohm load from
20 to 20,000 Hz, with less than0.1%(THD)

RMS continuous power mono into a 800 Watts x 1
4ohm load from 20 to 20,000 Hz,
with less than 0.1% (THD)

In Short terms @ 13.8V
RMS Power Stereo (4ohm) 200x2
RMS Power Stereo (2ohm) 400x2
RMS Power Bridged/Mono (4ohm) 800x1

Stable Into: (each channel) 2ohm
Stable into: (bridged/mono) 2ohm

Signal-to-Noise Ratio 24dB/octave
Crossover Slope (Butterworth) 50Hz -- 210Hz
Crossover Frequency

Die Cast Heatsink
NOMAD - protection circuit
MOSFETs - power supply & output devices
DSM - discrete surface mount
TOPAZ - patented noise eliminating circuitry
MEHSA -heat dissipating technology
TRANS - ana -- circuit topology

B+ Fuse Size 60A AGU (Not on amplifier from the power distribution. 60aug blew on me 2 times)

Alpine Type R 12" DVC 4+4ohms
12" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
Kevlar-reinforced pulp cone with Santoprene rubber surround
cast aluminum frame with perimeter venting
frequency response: 25-500 Hz
power handling: 200-500 watts RMS
peak power: 1,500 watts
sensitivity: 85 dB
sealed box volume: 0.7-1.0 cu. ft.
ported box volume: 0.75-1.75 cu. ft.
Here is the link for more about the quality (the one I have does not have the side cones in layers it has it in a smooth rubber form in the alpine ported box that came with factory forgot the model, can get it later)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-blmgM5Z3ULv/cgi-bin/Prodview.asp?readmore=true&g=67 700&I=500SWR1242#Tab

I have connected 150A fuse at battery and 60AUG fuse at power distribution for both amp.
8gauge going for both power for amps and 8guage going for both ground mounted in same place with 1 accessory ground for fuel tank (i believe its the fuel tank or something for the car ground wire, best location to find) Did sand it down good.

From EQ I have 3xPair of RCA's for front,rear and sub.

I have front and rear connected to Alpine 4 MRV F407.

I have the RF Power 800a2 connected to Alpine Type R 12" 4+4 dual ohms.

Here is my careless mistake.
I did have accidentally connected power and ground reverse with 60AUG fuse connected to power distribution block on the RF Power 800a2 and did not blow the fuse and so I opened up the amp and looked inside and it looked good no burns on component.

So I then connected it back to my alpine type R 12" with the Power 800a2, 4ohm min if bridged/mono it says on the manual.

I have bridged it to 2ohms I believe sine I ran the parallel connection + + to + on amp and - - to - on amp bridged to the amp.

It start hitting damn hard and deep so I was just looking at the sub just go in and out like 3 inches then went back to turn things down and I smell amp burning, coming out of the recently purchased Power 800a2, now I am sad, recently purchased it for $200 dollars.

So went and turn the music off and I don't know if I had the music on and I started changing it to 8ohms on the sub having it like + - connected from each side of sub and having the other + going to plus on the amp and the other - going to the - on the amp bridged. Now I was thinking I was getting 8 ohms but the sub was hitting nasty it was making a nasty not deep sound
so I thought thats the wrong think to do so went back to my parallel connection as before loading it to 2ohms, I know I should of carefully read the manual before connecting this thing but I spend all night trying to figure it out.
Now I have the same sound coming out of the woofer as I had it connected at 8ohms before. So I know there was something wrong.
So turned off the deck and went ahead and rewired the connection again in parallel but I still get the same sound. I made sure I checked the gain to pretty low. (Hate these gains as there is gain for left and right channel)

So started driving with it like that thinking it just need to have the battery a little more charged.
The sub stop hitting at all. Stopped the car and checked the amp and it was really hot and the 60AUG fuse at the power distribution block was burned

My remote wire connection was connected from the deck to eq to the 2 amp with no relays.

Even after changing the 60AUG I still didn't get no light on the amp but did get it on the Alpine amp. So another stupid move, I went ahead and took a speaker wire to the POWER 800a2 amp power connection to the remote on the amp with the
previous setup of the remote wire still present.
BLOWED ANOTHER DAMN 60AUG FUSE for the 800a2 amp connection. Not the Alpine.

So went ahead and removed the blown fuse, before putting a new one I went and removed the remote wire that was coming from the hu-eq to the POWER 800a2 out and left it on the Alpine amp to get the power from there.
Went ahead and connected a small speaker wire from the POWER 800a2 power connection to the remote connection on the amp.

Now I do get a light on the amp looks a little faded then before.
Thinking now the problem might be solved and finally inserted the 60AUG and turned the deck on to play music but still no BASS, now iam really upset.

Right now I do have power going to the POWER 800a2 but not like it used to from hu-eq to the 2 amp with no relay, this time connected as I mentioned on the last paragraph. But sill no BASS.

What should I suspect? the amp is 2 powerful for this sub? or because I wired it fucked up? and now the sub is fried? I paid alot for that sub and amp and Iam hoping not either.
Hoping things going to cool down maybe and start working but I did remove the remote connection on both amp before I came inside to type all this.

I know what I have done probably damaged something but the power 800a2 and the alpine type r 12" dual 4ohms are powerful components to break easily.

I did have the alpine type r 12" working on a different amp before pretty good but after connection with the power 800a2 recently purchased blew my subs? or is it a bad amp now? or is it just the matter of rewiring and if so how should I rewire it?
Also should I have 2 ground points separate areas or both ground for 2 amp at same place?

Sorry for this long post but wanted to say exactly explain my stupidity to get a good answer so I don't do the same mistake again.

What's the best way to connect this system?

I am going to test it tomorrow by bridging the alpine amp in parallel to the subs to see if the subs works.
If it is the subs that is blown is there any way to fix it?
Is it still good idea to use that amp or is it too old school and now I killed it even bad?

Any help on this situation would be much appreciated.

Thank you all.

p.s sorry for my bad grammar and the spellings as well.

Silver Member
Username: Rzarector

Coquitlam, Bc Canada

Post Number: 572
Registered: Dec-04
well sounds like the amp might be ok .. they always have protections .. like against the reverse polarity( neg in pos and vice verca) now are you sure the burning smell wasent comming out of the port of the sub? im not sure if u can remove the sub from that box but if u can take it out and see how it smells.. if it smells of burnt electronics the voice coils are dead and the sub is pretty much garbage.. that amp is a lil to powerfull.. u should have turned the gains down quiet a bit

New member
Username: Ian999

N/a, N/a NorthAmerica

Post Number: 2
Registered: Aug-05
Damn it was my type R 12" never thought they can go bad, damn bad wiring fucked it up, not even 2 minutes of having it powered on 2 ohms bridged. Should of had it connected to one channel on amp to have 2 ohm stable instead of bridged 2ohm, as the amp is not stable in 2ohm load bridged, got a pioneer TSW-306C SVC 4ohms 400RMS

Placed it in the alpine ported box and its kicking pretty good, no heat on the amp at all.
Didn't turn the gain up at all its on like quater or less on the amp..
How far should I turn the gain? How do I measure it with voltage meter
to set the right gain? any picture or website would be helpful.
Right now its bridged and running a 4ohm load that means is it taking 800x1RMS to the sub right? Having an amp with more power and having gain set low should not be a problem to the subs right? Sub got warranty for 2007 so I can play around with it.

Should I take this pioneer and placed it in a another pioneer small sealed box that I have, or best to leave it in the alpine ported box?
I will get both measurement later today.
Also if you got your front/rear rca's connected to the 4 channel alpine v12, can somone help me on fine tuning that in anways because I do loose music sometimes when Iam driving and kicks back up, when played a little bit lound.
Iam hoping its not the deck.. Or is it beacause I have the remote connection with no relay from HU-EQ-Alpine-RF amps be a problem?

Any help is much appericated, again sorry for the long post.
Thank you

Silver Member
Username: Rzarector

Coquitlam, Bc Canada

Post Number: 585
Registered: Dec-04
maybe turn it down just a lil more... just prevents the amp from sending to much power to the sub (i dont know how tough the pioneers are) where was the gain at with the type r hooked up to it?.. i wouldnt advise putting the pioneer in the alpine ported box, as different subs may require more or less box volume.. if u can find out though and if the pioneer is suitable with the box go for it

New member
Username: Ian999

N/a, N/a NorthAmerica

Post Number: 4
Registered: Aug-05
The pioneers are sweet. Its a 4ohm stable and the amp is 4ohm stable in bridged mode.
Correction to the top post as well I said 2ohm stable for bridgted/mono but its suppose to be 4ohm stable.
Stable Into: (each channel) 2ohm
Stable into: (bridged/mono) 2ohm *4ohms

I can feel the ground shake 2 feet using the pioneer in the alpine ported box. I am going to try the pioneer box sealed box I have later to see the difference.

Right now if anyone can tell me what is the direct mode on and off switch for an the Alpine V12 MRV F407. I have all the front and the rear RCA connected to the amp and all the settings to be off.
I belive when I put it on direct mode off all the speakers works and can't change the fading to rear or front or left or right using the deck I belive, not sure.
Whats the best way to set up the amp.
If I want to use the EQ on the amp how should I set it?.
When I drive I do loose my music maybe time to time and kicks back up, its annoyning. I have a deep cycle battery. I think Iam going to seperate the ground points and add the "POWER CAP 1.0F" that I have thats reading 12.83V even after having it unplugged for 6 month and the discharge little button does not discharge it.

Anways I will go ahead and play with this later when I got some time in hands. Sucks when you work so late.
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