Volfenhag 12" or Kicker Compvr 12"

 

New member
Username: Streetblaze

Post Number: 1
Registered: Mar-04
ive been looking for some review on the volfenhag subwoofers but i cant find any anywhere.. if you dont kno what volfenhag is heres a link to the ones im talkin about...thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3085943230&category=18803
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1584
Registered: Dec-03
kicker no question.
kicker are good subs. particularly the CompVR line
volfenhag are total trash. flea market grade rubbish.
 

Unregistered guest
Go Kicker...I had a friend who had two volfenhag 12's 1000 watts a piece....and he could not get them to bump. We tried every wiring concept and box concept...they just would not get loud...i have two kicker compvr 12's and have not been outbumped by two other twelves yet...go kicker.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 1868
Registered: Dec-03
haven't met anyone with a pair of 12W7s yet :-)
hehe
 

New member
Username: Ilpimp

Post Number: 6
Registered: Apr-04
I have a pair of 10W7s.

anyway, go with the kicker. I have two volfenhag 6X9s and they're really crappy. If you're looking to just get something in your car that will make a little noise, they'll do that, but don't count on them hitting hard.
 

Anonymous
 
I have a 12" volfenhag, I'm feeding it 400watts program, and 800watts peak. It is in a 1.5'sealed cabinat, I have the low-pass filter set at 65Hz, and I am so happy with it. I don't care about spl, I am not trying to have bass wars with people, mostly because I know people who build show cars and have realized that it is a waste of time. I built my car stereo to listen to music, and when the day comes that I cease to enjoy the sounds coming out of my car, I will get different speaker elements.

I am sorry for all of you who had a bad experience with a volfenhag sub, I have had mine for a little over a year now, and am quite pleased with it. I haven't blown it, there are no volume spikes like with pre-fab ported cabs, I am content. Kicker is a good company, but I am skeptical that they actually manufacture all of their own components. However I am willing to be wrong. When it comes down to it, they (subwoofer systems) are all pretty much equal, until you start spending in the neighborhood of $1000 or more.

I know that some of you have made fabulous systems for less, I am not trying to imply that by spending less than $1000 you will end up with a average sub system.

Anyway, I have been putting systems in cars for the past 10 years, and I am by no means a "Professional" installer, seeing as I don't provide services for payment, however it has been my experience that a quality install makes a huge difference, and when it comes down to it none of us posess the same hearing response so logically (guy's hear me on this, we are not women) none of us are going to share the same standards of what sounds good, great, crappy, or better than your system.

My advise is to do what you want to do, and if you don't like it fine whatever, but at least you figured it out for yourself, and didn't listen to the opinion of some dood, that you had a conversation with on a forum. Not that their advise should not be taken, but it should be taken with a grain of salt.

oh yeah, I once watched a fiesta or festiva, with 2 strokers blow the rear window out, but then again they were strokers...
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2051
Registered: Dec-03
"When it comes down to it, they (subwoofer systems) are all pretty much equal, until you start spending in the neighborhood of $1000 or more."

Not entirely true. There is a vast difference in construction quality and durability as well as performance. Example would be a $125 Adire Shiva 12" sub, and a $40 Pyle 12" sub. While both are pretty affordable, and plenty of kids seem to be happy with their Pyle subs, the Adire is magnitudes superior in build quality and performance. I've seen, installed, worked with countless systems, and there is a reason some cost more than others.
Now, that being said, yes audio is to a point, subjective, but durability, and design aren't.

"none of us are going to share the same standards of what sounds good, great, crappy, or better than your system."

True, but we will generally agree on what's made well and what isn't, and the $20 Volfenhag products have such a high failure rate that I wouldn't condine their products by supporting their company with my money. Just becasue a few people such as yourself haven't had a problem with them does not negate the majority who have.

"oh yeah, I once watched a [festiva], with 2 strokers blow the rear window out, but then again they were strokers..."

Might have been mine. I used to compete in IASCA events in the pro circuit with a white Festiva I built the system for using two Cerwin Vega 12" subs, but they weren't the Stroker line. Mine were pre-strokers. I was still hitting over 151dB consistantly though, with a perfect C-weighted curve.
 

sure_13
Unregistered guest
its always funny to hear two smart guys go at it. . .
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ducati1331

Post Number: 17
Registered: Apr-04
Yea it is...but no question Kicker stick with there name... they will kick the Sh!t out of you body....
 

IwasAnonymous
Unregistered guest
I agree with you about quality components, and you are right about the failure rate factor, I could just be extremely lucky and managed to get the one good volfenhag ever made. But I am also using it over a small bandwidth. I think that has something to do with it.

Correct me if I am wrong, but because of the way a speaker element is manufactured; it will have a resistance that varies across the reproducible frequency range. So the sub might be a 4 ohms at 80hz, but it might be something like 3.42ohms at 60hz. There are many other variables to consider also, but...

Considering that the resistance varies across a frequency range you have to choose an amplifier that is well suited for that range.

also consider that your program wattage changes with the output of your alternator, which has an effect on your system.

Meaning...

I am sure that anyone could get similar results using the kicker, with the right amp

Being the type that likes to turn knobs, and tune electronics, I think the installation has a lot to do with it.

and more than likely the kicker will make the end user happier. I happened to see a volfenhag at a flea market for cheap ($35) and thought, man, this is the only way I'd ever buy one, and I did, call it an impulse buy. I happened to be one of the lucky ones, but I am not making the sub do very much, just a 45Hz bandwidth, (4th order filters at 19hz and 66hz) I have a very specific application, so...

I got lucky thats all
 

IwasAnonymous
Unregistered guest
GlassWolf, did you go to SPL competitions in Indiana? if so it could have been you.

If so, impressive, my hat's off to you

watching the rear window blow out of such a small car was on par with seeing a 350 blow a rod and imbed it in the hood.

The only other car I've witnessed blow its rear windo out was a CRX, it too had Cerwin Vega's, but it had 3 15's (not strokers)
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2143
Registered: Dec-03
"Correct me if I am wrong, but because of the way a speaker element is manufactured; it will have a resistance that varies across the reproducible frequency range."

yes. that's why a speaker has an "Fs" in the T/S specs.
It's called a "reactive load."
side note: it's impedance (AC voltage) since "resistance" refers to DC voltage.
the impedance and resistance of a speaker, while similar, are different.

"Considering that the resistance varies across a frequency range you have to choose an amplifier that is well suited for that range."

that's your damping factor, and most good class-D subwoofer amplifiers have a damping factor far beyond the required specs for a subwoofer to interact with the amp with a minimal of adverse effect.

"Being the type that likes to turn knobs, and tune electronics, I think the installation has a lot to do with it."

always will, just like designing an auditorium for ideal acoustic respose for say, an Opera hall.
It's an art as much as a science.

with your amp, you're using a notch filter, and I'd guess probably a zobel filter at that to reduce the reactive effect of the driver, and from that it sounds like this is for a bandpass enclosure, which, with for example a 4th order box, you're going to mask most any distortion anyway. bandpass is great for that.. my only complaint is teh limited response of most bandpass enclosures.
I like good sealed boxes, aperiodic enclosures (if you have the patience) or a ported box if you're just after a bit more bass, and you like it punchy more than you worry about a flat, accurate response from 20-20K, and face it, most listeners in cars don't go for a flat c-weighted response anyway.
They use the typical inverse bell curve response with peaks at around 15KHz and 35-40Hz.

"watching the rear window blow out of such a small car was on par with seeing a 350 blow a rod and imbed it in the hood."

haha had a friend do that in a 350cid IROC-Z.
Through that puppy right out.. it was impressive.
Hope I never do that with the hemi.

The thing about back windows is usually it's the rubber seal that blows out from teh pressure, and the window just sorta "pops" out of the frame and breaks. I've done that to a few cars.. Integras are notorious for that from the early 90s.
Actually shattering the glass isn't so easy, nor so common. Usually that involves the drivers hitting the resonant frequency of the glass, then the window just instantly bursts. That's more luck than it is SPL most times.. takes just teh right audio at just the right SPL.. or a good signal generator to accomplish the saem thing.
 

IwasAnonymous
Unregistered guest
Thank you for the correction, I often get mpedance and resistance confused, I have a friend who studies audio recording, and he is the only person I know around here that I get to talk about electronics with.

I have the sub in a sealed box, roughly 1.5 cubic feet, the crossovers were designed by a buddy of mine who is studying audio recording, they are 24db/octave filters, hence 4th order filter, I don't recal what schematics he followed, but it was quite a fun undertaking acquiring all of the components to make the filters.

the speaker isn't distorting, or if it is, it is happening at volumes that I rarely venture towards.

But like I have stated before, simple application, seeing as how my car isn't exactly worth investing too much money into. Just enough low end to satisfy me, don't get me wrong, I love vibrating like the next guy, I'm just not into it to be too loud.

Thats why i'm underpowering (i guess) a volfenhag in a sealed box, and the supprising thing is it does exactly what I need it to, so I am happy with it. The frequency response is good enough for me considering what I have put into it,


 

Unregistered guest
Hey Glasswolf, speaking of integras...

I have a 94 model (first year they came with the four circular headlights) two door hatch, and am looking to put some subs into it, but not looking to blow the rear window out...

What am looking for, however, is something "affordable" (I'm 18, pretty skimp on cash) and reliable, that will put out decent bass. Right now the integra has two 6.5 pioneers in the back, two 6" tit plated ros fosgates in the front...space for speakers is tight, but I cant complain too much.

What do you, or anyone else, recommend? I'm looking at a pyramid system now, two 15s with a box for $75, 800 W max, model num PP15...I'm sure most will label it "cheap" or "flea market"...however I really can't spend more than $100, $125 for box and subs, as my parents will b*tch.

So suggestions, or feedback on the pyramid system?

Phil
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ducati1331

Post Number: 33
Registered: Apr-04
wow man...i would guess that the subs are busted...or not working right. The only time i see deals like that is when its beat to crap. I say save some money up and talk to your parents...im spending $807 on my system and i dont have a job or anything. save and try to let your parents spend more...good luck
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2267
Registered: Dec-03
I'd suggest ya get a job and spend a bit more, or buy used then.
forget pyramid.
 

plangetee
Unregistered guest
Ok thanks. In general, what brands are good? I know polk and alpine are. What do you guys think of just a single 15" sub? Will that work? What do you recommend if so...

THanks
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 2379
Registered: Dec-03
single fifteen works great for a lot of people, yeah.
here's a generalized list of good and bad stuff by company:
http://b14.ezboard.com/fcaraudiotalkfrm27.showMessage?topicID=27.topic
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