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New member Username: MikePost Number: 8 Registered: Mar-04 | which ohm is louder? 2,4, or 8. with a punch hx2 10 and a schoscie 300? oh and the sub is dvc. |
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Silver Member Username: TboneOK United States Post Number: 214 Registered: Feb-04 | The ohm is only a impendance rating for the coil on a subwoofer. There is no loudness comparision, the comparsion comes in matching the subs ohm load to your amplifiers wattage rating an ohm load to maximize power. |
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New member Username: MikePost Number: 10 Registered: Mar-04 | well what is the best way to connect the wires on the sub with my amp, @ 300w, 2 or 4 ohm? |
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Bronze Member Username: ThespotlightAmarillo, TX USA Post Number: 11 Registered: Mar-04 | Is your amp rated 300w @ 4ohm and 600w @ 2ohm or 150w @4ohm and 300w @ 2ohm? Either way the best way to maximize the output of your amp is to go with 2ohm. Make sure your amp is stable @ 2ohm in mono briged mode before you start wiring. |
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Bronze Member Username: Bdb_86Bemidji, MN Usa Post Number: 59 Registered: Dec-03 | well 2 ohm is easier to push because of less resistance thus can get lowder but yet easier to blow the amp unless it can handle it |
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Silver Member Username: TboneOK United States Post Number: 218 Registered: Feb-04 | Less resistance means higher current, which means a harder load, so yes it gets louder, but it is definetly harder on an amp to push a two ohm load than a four ohm load, because the regulated power supplies have a hard time building enough current. so yes, check the specs on your amp before wiring. |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 11 Registered: Mar-04 | well, im pretty sure that my amp is 150w @ 4 ohm and 300w @ 2ohm load. I guess i have my speaker set at a 2 ohm load because the wires are set parallel i think, does that mean i have them each+2+ and -2- on the speaker and one set of wires running from amp to speaker. or is that called series? |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 12 Registered: Mar-04 | this is only a temporary amp until i can afford a jl 500/1. |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 13 Registered: Mar-04 | how about this, instead of using 14 ga wire i get a bigger size. will that make a difference? i want to get the most out of what i have. |
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New member Username: VolcomPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-04 | i dont know if a bigger wire would do anything but they are right if your amp and sub can handle 2 omhs then do that. To connect and get two omhs you would have one speaker connected the same in the box and have the speaker run a positive and negative to the other speakers positve and negative. Then the 2nd speaker gets hooked to the mono amp or whatever you have. 2omhs like they said puts out a lot more power and thus you will need to make sure your amp can support it. I went to a audio place and they got an amp that puts out 0.5 omhs. Damn that must hit! |
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Bronze Member Username: ThespotlightAmarillo, TX USA Post Number: 23 Registered: Mar-04 | That sounds like you have them in parallel. Using 12 ga might not make much difference but it's always nicer to use larger gauge wire. Unless your wire is over 5' long then it would be required to be 12 ga or larger. On a sub in a system with more than 900 watts you would need 10 ga and sometimes even 8 ga. What about the size of your speaker boxes? Do you know its cubic volume or can you give me the deminsions? Depending on the cubic space and the speakers displacement you may want to add polyfill (the craft stuff that goes inside pillows) into your box. Polyfill slows down the air within the box making the box seem bigger to the speaker. If has always worked great for me when I needed it. If you REALLY want to make the most out of what you have then start adding dynamat or any kind of sound dampening material. First add it around your cabin speakers and then try to cover up the entire inside of the trunk. Next go back to the doors and cover the entire inside of it unless you did that before going to the trunk. Last but not least add a layer covering the entire inside of the car. Don't worry about adding too much to the rear deck but make sure you get plenty around the speakers that are there. Most of the sound will travel through the back seats but you can make holes in the sheet metal if you want. |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 14 Registered: Mar-04 | i have a little truck ( 89 toyota pick-up reg cab) and the speaker is behind the seat. the box is prbably 0.69 to 0.70 cubic feet. with a port i added. i built the box in like five minutes. but yeah i will try that polyfill sh*t (would cotton work?) |
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Anonymous | yes cotton would work just fine |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 15 Registered: Mar-04 | i'll try that then thanx for the info guys. |
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Bronze Member Username: ThespotlightAmarillo, TX USA Post Number: 24 Registered: Mar-04 | Cotton might but I would stick to polyfill to be safe. With your box being ported it might not work since it may just blow out of the port but you could try using wood glue to keep it inside. You should build you another box but keep it sealed and add the polyfill to see how that sounds. I think you will like it much more especially for that size of a box. Oh and yeah, make sure you use at least 5/8" or 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard). Also use chaulk and make sure your box is completely air tight (except for through the port of course). |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 16 Registered: Mar-04 | well ive been on a site called carstereo.com and it has a box building calculator. so i figured out a way to build me a box for my truck that is the correct size. but i dont use mdf i use 3/4 inch advantech subflooring plywood. So i should just line the walls with the polyfill or cotton with something like liquid nails. i think i'll build the box sealed first and see how that sounds and if it sounds like crap how big do you think the port should be and where would the best port location be at. the box demensions are H=11" W=17 3/8" D=6 5/8". |
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Silver Member Username: HydroOrlando, Florida Post Number: 172 Registered: Dec-03 | Mike the Best place to calculate your Box Parameters is www.Bcae1.com the Plywood will work fine and you may also wanna brace the Enclosure for Extra durability,that site also has a Port calculator for your last question. |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 18 Registered: Mar-04 | Right on man |
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Bronze Member Username: ThespotlightAmarillo, TX USA Post Number: 25 Registered: Mar-04 | Don't forget to subtract for the space that the speakers take up. You might have to make it a couple of inches bigger but maybe that calculator accounts for that too. I came up with about .7327 cf but that's without subtracting the speaker's displacement the thickness of the board. Sounds very close though. I don't know the density of plywood but if you have it handy go ahead and try it. Use MDF next time if you want to be for sure you're getting the most out of it. Liquid nails would work for sealing but I would use Elmer's Wood glue instead for the polyfill/cotton. I know little about ports because I don't like the trouble with tuning them to the right frequency. Maybe if I worked at a car audio shop I would try it out. |
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Bronze Member Username: MikePost Number: 20 Registered: Mar-04 | well i done all the subtracting for the wood myself. But i dont know if the calculator took out for the speaker or not, i doubt it though, the hx2 10 has a pretty big magnent. the only way i could add to the box is by making it wider, and then i half to take out for the hump in the floor in the middle of my truck. do you think if i build a box for my tool box it would sound, i know it would sound like crap inside of my truck but outside do u think it would sound good?..........peeps would call me the rattling king then lol. |
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Bronze Member Username: ThespotlightAmarillo, TX USA Post Number: 30 Registered: Mar-04 | I know a lot of people who put subs in the bed of their trucks but they usually have a top over the bed. If you have a hump in the middle of the cab just make the box an odd shape so that it goes over the hump. I also wouldn't want to hear that somebody stole your nice sub. |