When i figure out the dimensions of my sealed enclosure, do I have to figure out the cubic ft. left over AFTER the sub is placed inside... or is that already figured into the number given to me by the manufacturer of the subwoofer? Really important. Please help. Thanks.
Byrumjr: I read your answer in "amp setting/clipping" - and I was wondering if you could explain the purpose and effect of the amp settings...? Like the subsonic filter, and that switch to choose between 0 and 180??? I just need some help, you know? thanks.
If the box is sealed I don't think it matter as long as it is not real big or little. I might hear some feed back on this but I would say as long as you are 0.30 cubit feet close it will sound fine. If your box is to big in cubit feet you can put a brace in it or a book something to take up some of the cubit feet to make it less. Too little stuff it full of poly fell or cotton.
The subsonic filter cuts off any sound below what you have it set at. I think it more for ported box but I might be wrong. This is so your sub does not bottom out.
That switch to choose between 0 and 180??? I don't know what that is. If you had a photo or what amp is it .
Sean, By what brand is your sub made. Some companies list the encosure size while others list the actaul air space the sub will work best at. I build boxes for people so I may be familiar with the specs for your sub, or otherwise, send the company an email.
The switch between 0 and 180 sounds like a low pass frequency cutoff but I don't know of an amp company that lets you set the LP frequency to 0 Hz. Is it a Class D mono amp?
Byrumjr: Thanks, man. So, if I want my sub to hit lower frequencies... adjust it to higher or lower on the subsonic dial? The lower the setting, the lower the freq of bass I'll be able to achieve - correct?
Scubasteve: Thanks for trying to help too! I really need it! Anyway, Image Dynamics. I have an IDMAX10v.3D2. (I'm sooo stoked!!!)
Also, yes, it is exactly a class D mono amp. How'd you know that??? Cool, man. It's a Digital Audio 900 watt class D mono amp (1-ohm stable) - that's how i'll be wiring my sub too, by the way.
You obviously know your $hit - so thanks. I'll be awaiting your advise. (I've already got a sheet of 3/4" MDF, wood glue, staples, and screws - ready to go!!!)
subfanatic: I'm going to be using a sealed enclosure, though. I don't have too much room... more than likely it'll be in the front passenger foot area. (I had it there before with my last sub and it vibrates less and hits WAY nice!) what do you know about sealed??? thanks, man.
I mean... you said to "adjust it to what my ported box is tuned to" - right? I'm just saying that it's not ported, it's sealed. Then, I was asking for your expertise on sealed enclosures. (I thought you misunderstood me) Anyway, no offense intended there, man. I'm happy to have your help.
haa, well with a sealed box the box is auto tuned to the subs resonent frequency. you need to set it how you want it, my old setup consisted of a sealed box with a 10 inch al, and i had the low pass set to everyhting under 80 hrtz
Good choice on the sub and the sealed enclosure. Since its sealed, you'll get the tightest possible bass, and you don't need to worry about a subsonic filter because the air in the box will dampen the sub's excursion, preventing it from being damaged by ultra low frequency sound reproduction. Also, I have a good deal of experience installing ID subs and the .6 to .9 cu. ft. they recommend is the volume of the enclosure, so you don't have to worry about figuring in the volume of the driver. Also, I've never used that amp before, but since you'll be driving a 1 ohm load, make sure your amp is in well ventilated area as a precaution. If this is your first box, a piece of advice is to make sure that the wood is square, and all cuts you make are square. Use more screws than you think you should need, and pre-drill everything.
sub & steve: so what setting should i set on the side of my amp for the best performance? here's everything on the side of my amp: "low pass" dial "subsonic" dial "phase shift" switch "level" dial "master/slave" switch What's the best way to put each one, you guys?also, what's the correct way to tune my amp?Thanks again!!!! You guys are the best!
so, if I understand right... those duhickies on the amp only apply when using a ported enclosure... other wise don't worry about them with a sealed box? Is this right? Sorry to sound like an idiot - but HEY, I gotta learn somehow.
You don't have to worry about the subsonic filter but you may want to set it to 10 Hz or so just for the hell of it. (20 Hz is considered the lowest audible tone) The "low pass" dial is the crossover point that your amp starts cutting power above. You'll want to set that to the "high pass" crossover point on your midrange speakers to avoid overlapping between the sub and midranges. Also you don't want your sub playing into the mid-bass range, so set the "low pass" on your sub to between 100 and 150 Hz, depending on how much bass you want your mids to handle. I highly recommend reading the manual for your amp if you have it. Setting the gain is a bit complex so you'll want to read up on how to do it if you don't have voltage meters and some other tools.
Scubasteve: Thanks!!! This has probably been the single most informative and prompt assistance I've ever received on this forum. ( no offense, guys ) By the way, I read the manual and it has directions, but... there's a scientific way of doing it with voltage meters??? If so, how? Like I said before, thanks, man. You're awesome.
Everyone: Thanks for all your help. I wish there was something I could help you all out with too, but I doubt it...
Araknid: So, if I'm using one sub - leave the switch on 0 or 180 (I'm assuming 0, right?) I appreciate it.